skiing with an GL2 at DVinfo.net

Tim Palmer-Benson · March 9th, 2003, 10:23 PM

I have been taking skiing shots using a little tripod, and a backpack bought at Wal-Mart. In order to avoid broken time code for FCP, I try to put the camera on pause after shooting with it. I put it back in my backpack with it in pause, while I ski to the next location. I have been finding that the camera invariably "unpauses" itself leaving me with a lot of blank recorded tape. Also I have noticed that it sometimes shuts down to save battery power. How do the pros deal with these two situations? I find that I have to turn the camera on and off to get it to restart when it goes into power save mode. But doesn't this result in broken time code?

A couple of other problems....I bought a poloarizer filter and increase my exposure by 1 and half stops. I shoot everything twice, first in Auto and 2nd in "sand and snow". This is because I never know which sequence is going to look good on my computer monitor when I get home (I am shooting for the web). Shooting ski scenes is always tricky for me because people/objects either look too dark or over exposed, and the view finder and the little LCD screen don't tell you much when you are out on a steep hill in bright sunlight. Anyone got any better ideas for dealing with this situation?

Tim

Ken Tanaka · March 9th, 2003, 10:44 PM

Regarding your first issue, try using the "Lock" switch just above the Record button. It's specifically designed for this purpose. It saves your settings and basically puts the entire camera to sleep. Push it back to "Standby" when you're ready to shoot again.

Since I don't shoot many sand/snow scenes I'll leave your other question to others. I will, however, remark that your best solution might be to use Manual mode rather than Auto and set the exposure (iris & shutter speed) explicitly.

p.s. Nice Website! I've long wanted to visit Vermont and your site further impels my desire!

Bud Kuenzli · March 10th, 2003, 12:39 AM

if you black your tape first (record nothing on it for the entire tape) and then rewind it, it will have time code applied and you can start/stop it with impunity.

Alexander McLeod · March 10th, 2003, 06:00 PM

I used the "sand and snow" setting at Blackcomb a couple of weeks ago and it worked well. At one point I skied a lengthy trail holding the GL2 in one hand while passing in and out of sunny areas. No big changes in light although maybe my eyes are more sensitive than my cameras. :-) It was interesting to see how stable the shots came out, although I didn't crash and of course that helps.

Also, saw a skier with a smaller video camera taking a film of himself as he skied down the trail. Wish my arms were long enough to do that with the GL2. It would be a stretch to get anything other than my gleaming molars and sunburned nose.

Sandy

Will Fastie · March 10th, 2003, 07:55 PM

The GL2 specs say that the operating temperature range is 32F - 104F (0C - 40C). I've also learned that specifications are used to constrain warranties, including extended warranties.

So if you take your GL2 skiing, don't tell anyone!

Or you could get Porta-Brace's Polar Mitten...

Note added 12 Mar 03: I should have mentioned that I read the specs for nearly 40 camcorders before buying the GL2. As near as I can recall, the lower operating limit was always 32 degrees F.

Benjamin Taft · March 12th, 2003, 10:57 AM

<<<-- Originally posted by Will Fastie : The GL2 specs say that the operating temperature range is 32F - 104F (0C - 40C). I've also learned that specifications are used to constrain warranties, including extended warranties.
-->>>

Heh, that would pretty much mean indoor shooting only during wintertime where I live.

I'm going snowboarding in Canada in a month and I would like to get some neat footage there (if I've bought a XM-2/GL-2 by then) so this thread has been an interesting read.

Adrian Douglas · March 12th, 2003, 06:13 PM

The min operating temp of 32F/0C is probably because the techs that design and test the cameras don't like to go outside of their climate controlled environment and they don't have a freezer handy.

I've used my XL to shoot skiing and snowboarding in temps down to -13C (maybe about 5F) and apart from losing a little battery time experienced no problems. That being said we did have a nice warm cat to climb into after shooting, so if you are planning to stay out for an extended time I would use some kind of protection.

Settings wise, I always use a polarizer, -3dB on the gain and open the exposure comp up +1 stop. If shooting in frame mode use TV (shutter priority) and set it to 50/60, PAL/NTSC respectively. If shooting in normal mode I still use TV but sometimes go up to 250. Depending on the day you will probably have to use the ND filter as well.

March 9th, 2003, 10:23 PM	#1
Tim Palmer-Benson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Morgan, Vermont Posts: 130	skiing with an GL2 I have been taking skiing shots using a little tripod, and a backpack bought at Wal-Mart. In order to avoid broken time code for FCP, I try to put the camera on pause after shooting with it. I put it back in my backpack with it in pause, while I ski to the next location. I have been finding that the camera invariably "unpauses" itself leaving me with a lot of blank recorded tape. Also I have noticed that it sometimes shuts down to save battery power. How do the pros deal with these two situations? I find that I have to turn the camera on and off to get it to restart when it goes into power save mode. But doesn't this result in broken time code? A couple of other problems....I bought a poloarizer filter and increase my exposure by 1 and half stops. I shoot everything twice, first in Auto and 2nd in "sand and snow". This is because I never know which sequence is going to look good on my computer monitor when I get home (I am shooting for the web). Shooting ski scenes is always tricky for me because people/objects either look too dark or over exposed, and the view finder and the little LCD screen don't tell you much when you are out on a steep hill in bright sunlight. Anyone got any better ideas for dealing with this situation? Tim

March 9th, 2003, 10:44 PM	#2
Ken Tanaka Retired DV Info Net Almunus Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 6,943	Regarding your first issue, try using the "Lock" switch just above the Record button. It's specifically designed for this purpose. It saves your settings and basically puts the entire camera to sleep. Push it back to "Standby" when you're ready to shoot again. Since I don't shoot many sand/snow scenes I'll leave your other question to others. I will, however, remark that your best solution might be to use Manual mode rather than Auto and set the exposure (iris & shutter speed) explicitly. p.s. Nice Website! I've long wanted to visit Vermont and your site further impels my desire! __________________ Lady X Films: A lady with a boring wardrobe...and a global mission. Hey, you don't have enough stuff! Buy with confidence from our sponsors. Hand-picked as the best in the business...Really! See some of my work one frame at a time: www.KenTanaka.com

March 10th, 2003, 12:39 AM	#3
Bud Kuenzli Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Pole, Alaska Posts: 197	black you tape first if you black your tape first (record nothing on it for the entire tape) and then rewind it, it will have time code applied and you can start/stop it with impunity. __________________ on the Internet, when you get where you're going you still don't know where you are

March 12th, 2003, 06:13 PM	#7
Adrian Douglas Trustee Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Chigasaki, Japan. Posts: 1,660	The min operating temp of 32F/0C is probably because the techs that design and test the cameras don't like to go outside of their climate controlled environment and they don't have a freezer handy. I've used my XL to shoot skiing and snowboarding in temps down to -13C (maybe about 5F) and apart from losing a little battery time experienced no problems. That being said we did have a nice warm cat to climb into after shooting, so if you are planning to stay out for an extended time I would use some kind of protection. Settings wise, I always use a polarizer, -3dB on the gain and open the exposure comp up +1 stop. If shooting in frame mode use TV (shutter priority) and set it to 50/60, PAL/NTSC respectively. If shooting in normal mode I still use TV but sometimes go up to 250. Depending on the day you will probably have to use the ND filter as well. __________________ Adrian DVInfo.net Search for quick answers Where to buy? From the best in the business...DVInfo.net sponsors

March 10th, 2003, 06:00 PM	#4
Alexander McLeod Regular Crew Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 90	I used the "sand and snow" setting at Blackcomb a couple of weeks ago and it worked well. At one point I skied a lengthy trail holding the GL2 in one hand while passing in and out of sunny areas. No big changes in light although maybe my eyes are more sensitive than my cameras. :-) It was interesting to see how stable the shots came out, although I didn't crash and of course that helps. Also, saw a skier with a smaller video camera taking a film of himself as he skied down the trail. Wish my arms were long enough to do that with the GL2. It would be a stretch to get anything other than my gleaming molars and sunburned nose. Sandy

March 10th, 2003, 07:55 PM	#5
Will Fastie Major Player Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Jarrettsville, MD Posts: 353	The GL2 specs say that the operating temperature range is 32F - 104F (0C - 40C). I've also learned that specifications are used to constrain warranties, including extended warranties. So if you take your GL2 skiing, don't tell anyone! Or you could get Porta-Brace's Polar Mitten... Note added 12 Mar 03: I should have mentioned that I read the specs for nearly 40 camcorders before buying the GL2. As near as I can recall, the lower operating limit was always 32 degrees F.

March 12th, 2003, 10:57 AM	#6
Benjamin Taft Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Gothenburg, Sweden Posts: 52	<<<-- Originally posted by Will Fastie : The GL2 specs say that the operating temperature range is 32F - 104F (0C - 40C). I've also learned that specifications are used to constrain warranties, including extended warranties. -->>> Heh, that would pretty much mean indoor shooting only during wintertime where I live. I'm going snowboarding in Canada in a month and I would like to get some neat footage there (if I've bought a XM-2/GL-2 by then) so this thread has been an interesting read.