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April 4th, 2006, 05:48 AM
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#16 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 86
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The Scorpion looks ugly. :o(
Why don't you invent another stabilizer, and instead of using weights, you can you some of the other stuff (FS-4, battery packs, etc.) as the counter balance? Obviously, you would not be using your lights and mics down there for counter balance support. I mean, the weights on a stabilizer seems like "dead weight" to me, especially if you have to still wear your FS-4 or spare batteries around a belt pack. I would "borrow" one of the plans from a current model of a stabilizer, and attempt to use your "extras" instead of the weights for your "new" design. ;o) |
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April 4th, 2006, 09:25 AM
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#17 |
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Old Boot
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: London UK
Posts: 3,633
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DON!?!? What have you DONE to that CAT!!? I wanna see the front side and get its expression!! I can hear the MEeeeaoaaooooww all the way to here in London!
Don't you love animals - or what? Grazie Best larf I've had Fuuurr A long time .. . ouch! |
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April 4th, 2006, 06:22 PM
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#18 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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Well I guess it sort of does look like it went through the microwave or something.
I chose a “natural” color when I purchased them. They are made by a chap in Montana. Here’s another look. http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Cat.jpg This person makes custom "Cats" also. Don |
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April 5th, 2006, 12:03 PM
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#19 | |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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Quote:
Tom I am strictly an amateur at this and have no intention of anything besides a hobby. Since I only use a tripod I have never considered something like you are suggesting. I did take some time today to look on e-bay and found some pictures of one product called “Glidecam”. This one seems to use bolt on weights and should be fairly simple to change in the method you have suggested. The only part I can see that you would have to work on is balancing the two weights at the bottom. I also think that for the most part that the battery pack would need to be sold with such a product. Otherwise there are too many variables. Onward: Added a couple of shelves to help support batteries/FS-4 Added accessory shoe area What else? http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/New-Mount-1.jpg |
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April 6th, 2006, 05:18 AM
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#20 |
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Major Player
Join Date: May 2003
Location: York, England
Posts: 518
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Hmmm? I used my new set up yesterday in some very quiet surroundings and I find that I can detect some noise pick-up from the transport.
I tried it out at home in the early hours when there was virtually no background noise and yes the transport is audible. So I am either going to have to move the mike further from the camera (very ungainly) or switch it to the other side, and consequently have to learn to work in a different way. Again the mike will have to be well out from the camera to enable access to the LCD and various controls. The Beachtek is first rate though. I have much more control over levels and no clipping on the occasional burst of extra loud sound. |
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April 9th, 2006, 01:21 AM
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#21 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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Alan
Any progress? |
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April 9th, 2006, 02:21 AM
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#22 |
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Major Player
Join Date: May 2003
Location: York, England
Posts: 518
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So far I have modified the bracket so that I can adjust the distance of the Mic from the camera. I removed the two shoes from the right angle bracket and drilled and tapped a 1/4" hole. I have fixed an old straight flash bracket with a long slot to this with a standard 1/4 Whitworth clamping screw, so I can slide the new part with the shoe in and out.
In the end I have switched the microphone to the LH side of the camera and this has killed the noise pick up from the transport. The cable I am using is pretty low quality, so I have ordered some Tinsel starquad, which I am told is the best for noise rejection. I have also ordered one of these, which will make a neater job: http://www.canford.co.uk/commerce/pr...oductid=53-289 I will have to get used to the new way of working now. The downside of the LH side position is that the bracket does impede access to the controls on that side, plus the mike has to be further way from the camera to clear the LCD. This makes the rig rather more cumbersome. |
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April 9th, 2006, 11:56 PM
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#23 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 909
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Quote:
__________________
Steve McDonald https://onedrive.com/?cid=229807ce52dd4fe0 http://www.flickr.com/photos/22121562@N00/ http://www.vimeo.com/user458315/videos |
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April 11th, 2006, 06:54 AM
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#24 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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J. -- Hope your cat has returned by now.
Graham -- did you know the term "raining cat's and dog's" orginated in London? Alan - Any more test? Have you considered putting a LCD screen on it? I should have my “holder” done in the next week. I will post some pictures then. I will also run some “test” with it to see if I get any cassette noise. Also ordered one of these (NRG5911) from B&H incase I have to move the mic. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search I ended up going with Rode Videomic and Sennheiser ME64/K6 for a hand held. Still looking at the Sennheiser ME67 or Rode NTG-1/2 for a boom. Don |
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April 25th, 2006, 12:43 PM
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#25 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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Some Progress
Little more work to do then paint.
Still have to drill and mount the CH-910 Battery pack…… Mounting hole on end is for FS-4….. Both units sit on Aluminum angle ……. http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-09.jpg |
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April 30th, 2006, 01:43 PM
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#26 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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Well I think I’m done with this part for now anyway.
Mounting studs
http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-010.jpg CH-910 http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-011.jpg Battery for FS-4 http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-012.jpg Access to all functions http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-013.jpg Next I will be adding a 8” LCD Monitor…… http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-014.jpg |
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May 1st, 2006, 07:05 PM
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#27 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca.
Posts: 99
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LCD Monitor
I decided a while back that I wanted a portable monitor for my GL-2. After looking around I found that most of the monitors were in excess of $250.00 so I thought about using one of the current LCD TFT monitor / TV sets. After some searching I found this unit on e-bay. The picture is as I received it.
http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-015.jpg At $89.95 plus $17.95 for shipping. There are 2 ways to mount this monitor. 1. The square nut that you see on top of the mount fits into a channel on the back of the monitor. 2. The bottom of the monitor is tapped for ¼ - 20 threads. The mount that comes with the monitor is ¼-20 screw. But can only be screwed in about 3 turns. So I removed the bracket by extracting 5 screws shown here. http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-017.jpg Next I tapped out the threads on the bottom of the bracket shown here. http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-018.jpg This allows me to insert 3/8" or so into the threads. HOWEVER use caution it is possible to go too far and press against the plastic of the case. I ordered a shoe mount, which has not arrived yet that will allow me to mount the monitor on top of my GL-2. $19.95 + $ 4.95 shipping. (Nothing available locally). Is the picture as good as the more expensive – no, will it do 16:9 – no just 4:3. But the offset is that I have paid a total of $132.80 for a non-pro monitor – which is just fine with me. http://www.sonic.net/kd6hq/images/Firestore-016.jpg The End....... well maybe Enjoy |
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