GL / XM assorted posts, 2003

Don Palomaki · July 11th, 2003, 04:18 AM

Do you mean ZOOM or SHOTGUN mic?
Which model numbers?

Benjamin Taft · July 11th, 2003, 04:36 AM

I can't really help you myself but perhaps you would get more replies if this was moved to the Mac forum instead since the question refers to post work in FCP.

Rob Lohman · July 11th, 2003, 07:15 AM

I checked the manuals for the GL1, GL2, XL1 and XL1s and only the
XL1 manuals state the color temperature (sorta). They say:

Indoor mode (3200K light)
Outdoor mode (5600K sunlight)

Which are the standard colo(u)r temperatures.

Bud Kuenzli · July 11th, 2003, 07:18 AM

You will want to use the Color Corrector 3Way to tweak the colors. You may use other filters in combination with that filter but the 3way corrector will do the majority of the work. I did a similar thing when I asked a friend to do Broll for me in a gym. He didn't even color balance and his footage was almost solid orange. I had to color correct both rolls to get something that was close enough that they looked the same but it is doable. I'm gone for the next 5 days on a float so I won't be much more help...

Tim Buege · July 11th, 2003, 07:32 AM

Thanks, that makes sense. The GL2 is probably similar.

Rob Lohman · July 11th, 2003, 07:39 AM

Set it to none. If that is not an option set it to lower (even).

Christopher Giglio · July 11th, 2003, 08:29 AM

Thanks ... I do have the option of none or lower. On another thread, I was advised to set it at even because the GL-2 frame mode is actually interlaced. Does this make sense to you? If could explain the rationale, that would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Rob Lohman · July 11th, 2003, 08:58 AM

It is correct that the DV format "only understands" interlaced. In
this format the lower field comes first. Usually settings for your
NLE are used on how it TREATS your footage which must be
non-interlaced (therefor the none). It can also be it uses this for
reading the format, in this case you might need lower first. Run
some tests, if you see weird results on one then you know that
it isn't the way to go.

On Premiere I tried both and it didn't made a difference at all on
*my* frame mode footage.

Jim Pruett · July 11th, 2003, 11:21 AM

This question may seem a bit funny, but I need to know if I will damage my Canon GL-2 if I film looking at the sun? I would like to be able to capture sunrises and sunsets, but want to find out first if it is bad for the camera. I would imagine that I will need to use some type of filter and also adjust the shutter and/or aperture. Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance,

Jim

Graham Bernard · July 11th, 2003, 11:30 AM

DON'T DO ANYTHING YET! Wait for replies and then do some more research. Lots of options for doing untold damage - all round!

Stop and wait!!!!

Grazie

Rob Lohman · July 11th, 2003, 11:31 AM

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...&threadid=9880

Boyd Ostroff · July 11th, 2003, 11:54 AM

Thanks for finding that old thread. Since I posted back then I've shot some more sunsets. Most recently I used 3 ND filters stacked and also cranked the shutter up to the max speed on my PDX-10, which I think is something like 1/10,000! This allowed me to shoot at a reasonable f-stop. Looks good on the tape but I haven't edited yet.

I haven't damaged my camera, but you should use some common sense. If it looks bright enough to hurt your eyes then you probably shouldn't film it. Wait until just before dawn or sunset, when the sun is very low on the horizon. It's filtered quite a bit by the atmosphere at that point. Best to go someplace that has a clear view of the horizon, like the beach or a mountain. You get the most interesting effects just as the sun sets, and then immediately afterwards the clouds get very interesting since the sun is below the horizon but still lighting the distant clouds.

I use both the high shutter speed and lots of filters to be in the "sweet spot" of the lens, which is typically in the f4 to f5.6 range. You may get diffraction effects if you use a very small lens opening, but experiment a bit with your own setup and see what you like.

Try speeding the clips up in your NLE afterwards, and they get really interesting....
I have gotten adventurous enough to shoot the sun higher in the sky for brief periods, and have one shot that's very interesting as a dark raincloud was passing. There's a still frame of it here. One interesting effect I've noticed is that the "aura" around the sun is so bright that it overexposes and the result is that the sun appears to be much larger than it really is. I actually like this effect however. There are some other framegrabs of sunsets here

Stewart McDonald · July 12th, 2003, 05:31 AM

Is there a way for me to focus on say a flower in the foreground...set a focus marker. Then focus on the background...set another focus marker. And then record and switch between them?

Hope that makes sense

Thanks

Vladimir Koifman · July 12th, 2003, 05:57 AM

That sounds like a nice feature to have. However I dont think there is a way to put a focus marker, other than physically marking your focus ring and lens barell.

Graham Bernard · July 12th, 2003, 07:34 AM

In the old days this was called throwning the focus - as per Vladimir's description.

July 11th, 2003, 04:18 AM	#466
Don Palomaki Wrangler Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,487	Do you mean ZOOM or SHOTGUN mic? Which model numbers? __________________ dpalomaki@dspalomaki.com

July 11th, 2003, 07:15 AM	#468
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	I checked the manuals for the GL1, GL2, XL1 and XL1s and only the XL1 manuals state the color temperature (sorta). They say: Indoor mode (3200K light) Outdoor mode (5600K sunlight) Which are the standard colo(u)r temperatures. __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

July 11th, 2003, 07:18 AM	#469
Bud Kuenzli Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Pole, Alaska Posts: 197	Color Corrector Three way You will want to use the Color Corrector 3Way to tweak the colors. You may use other filters in combination with that filter but the 3way corrector will do the majority of the work. I did a similar thing when I asked a friend to do Broll for me in a gym. He didn't even color balance and his footage was almost solid orange. I had to color correct both rolls to get something that was close enough that they looked the same but it is doable. I'm gone for the next 5 days on a float so I won't be much more help... __________________ on the Internet, when you get where you're going you still don't know where you are

July 11th, 2003, 07:32 AM	#470
Tim Buege Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Maplewood, MN, USA Posts: 62	Thanks, that makes sense. The GL2 is probably similar. __________________ Tim Buege tjbuegeATvisiDOTcom

July 11th, 2003, 07:39 AM	#471
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	Set it to none. If that is not an option set it to lower (even). __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

July 11th, 2003, 04:36 AM	#467
Benjamin Taft Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Gothenburg, Sweden Posts: 52	I can't really help you myself but perhaps you would get more replies if this was moved to the Mac forum instead since the question refers to post work in FCP.

July 11th, 2003, 08:29 AM	#472
Christopher Giglio Tourist Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: New York, NY Posts: 4	Thanks ... I do have the option of none or lower. On another thread, I was advised to set it at even because the GL-2 frame mode is actually interlaced. Does this make sense to you? If could explain the rationale, that would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

July 11th, 2003, 08:58 AM	#473
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	It is correct that the DV format "only understands" interlaced. In this format the lower field comes first. Usually settings for your NLE are used on how it TREATS your footage which must be non-interlaced (therefor the none). It can also be it uses this for reading the format, in this case you might need lower first. Run some tests, if you see weird results on one then you know that it isn't the way to go. On Premiere I tried both and it didn't made a difference at all on my frame mode footage. __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

July 11th, 2003, 11:21 AM	#474
Jim Pruett New Boot Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 16	Filming Sunrise/Sunset This question may seem a bit funny, but I need to know if I will damage my Canon GL-2 if I film looking at the sun? I would like to be able to capture sunrises and sunsets, but want to find out first if it is bad for the camera. I would imagine that I will need to use some type of filter and also adjust the shutter and/or aperture. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance, Jim

July 11th, 2003, 11:30 AM	#475
Graham Bernard Old Boot Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: London UK Posts: 3,633	Stop! DON'T DO ANYTHING YET! Wait for replies and then do some more research. Lots of options for doing untold damage - all round! Stop and wait!!!! Grazie

July 11th, 2003, 11:31 AM	#476
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...&threadid=9880 __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

July 11th, 2003, 11:54 AM	#477
Boyd Ostroff Wrangler Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Mays Landing, NJ Posts: 11,797	Thanks for finding that old thread. Since I posted back then I've shot some more sunsets. Most recently I used 3 ND filters stacked and also cranked the shutter up to the max speed on my PDX-10, which I think is something like 1/10,000! This allowed me to shoot at a reasonable f-stop. Looks good on the tape but I haven't edited yet. I haven't damaged my camera, but you should use some common sense. If it looks bright enough to hurt your eyes then you probably shouldn't film it. Wait until just before dawn or sunset, when the sun is very low on the horizon. It's filtered quite a bit by the atmosphere at that point. Best to go someplace that has a clear view of the horizon, like the beach or a mountain. You get the most interesting effects just as the sun sets, and then immediately afterwards the clouds get very interesting since the sun is below the horizon but still lighting the distant clouds. I use both the high shutter speed and lots of filters to be in the "sweet spot" of the lens, which is typically in the f4 to f5.6 range. You may get diffraction effects if you use a very small lens opening, but experiment a bit with your own setup and see what you like. Try speeding the clips up in your NLE afterwards, and they get really interesting.... I have gotten adventurous enough to shoot the sun higher in the sky for brief periods, and have one shot that's very interesting as a dark raincloud was passing. There's a still frame of it here. One interesting effect I've noticed is that the "aura" around the sun is so bright that it overexposes and the result is that the sun appears to be much larger than it really is. I actually like this effect however. There are some other framegrabs of sunsets here

July 12th, 2003, 05:31 AM	#478
Stewart McDonald Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: UK Posts: 130	Automated focussing? Is there a way for me to focus on say a flower in the foreground...set a focus marker. Then focus on the background...set another focus marker. And then record and switch between them? Hope that makes sense Thanks

July 12th, 2003, 05:57 AM	#479
Vladimir Koifman Regular Crew Join Date: May 2003 Location: Israel Posts: 115	That sounds like a nice feature to have. However I dont think there is a way to put a focus marker, other than physically marking your focus ring and lens barell.

July 12th, 2003, 07:34 AM	#480
Graham Bernard Old Boot Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: London UK Posts: 3,633	In the old days this was called throwning the focus - as per Vladimir's description.