GL / XM assorted posts, 2003

[Lars Siden]

Hi,

Yesterday we had a storm ( possibly a thunderstorm ) coming in. So I rigged the camera on our balcony( it has a roof ) - set up the interval timer function and started the camera...

This was about 4 pm ... at 8 pm I went out to check that the camera was safe from the rain ... and found the camera dead... ouch, I forgot that the battery won't work for more than maybe 3.5 hours ( especially when it wasn't 100% to start with ).

But I had about 4 minutes of video on the tape with massive clouds and rain, alas no thunder! The next time we're having bad wheather I'll be prepared with online power to the camera so I won't miss the action!

// Lazze - Sweden ... today with clear blue skies and a brilliant sun

[Ken Tanaka]

Awk. Actually, it's good that you noted the battery drain issue. It's not immediately obvious that shooting time-lapse would drain the battery so quickly. I've considered shooting something similar; we get some wonderful storms here in Chicago.

Lars, it looks like your post should be merged into this thread!

[Tim Buege]

Hi, I just purchased a GL2, and I'm very happy with it so far. However, I've noticed that with the Wipe and Overlap effects, if there is any horizontal movement in the picture of the first shot, there is a sudden "jump" as the second shot fades or wipes in.

I'm assuming this is because the camera rewinds a bit when you pause it, creating a small overlap in to prevent gaps on the tape between shots.

Is what I'm seeing normal, or a problem with my camera? Are there any particular techniques for using the wipe and overlap effects?

Thanks!

[Chris Fangio]

Hi Tim,

don't use the onboard effects. They're simply out of fashion ... If you want to use effects, use your editing software. They deliver much better transitions and effects.

Sorry I can't help you with your problem.

Chris

[Tim Buege]

Thanks, Chris.

I was just wondering if that was normal behaviour for the camera, or if I need to request a replacement (it's still early enough to do that).

I'm sure once I get my system, I'll mostly be using the video editing board and software. But there may be the occasional informal clip where I want to throw in some camera effects.

Thanks!

[Don Palomaki]

In camera effects that call for an A/B effect may form the A footage from a freeze frame from the last full frame of the first shot. This might induce the "jump" effect you are seeing.

[Bob Harotunian]

I could use a little advise on reading the GL2's new audio level meters. The first time I used the camera for a wedding, I tried to keep the peak audio levels around the green dot. In post, the audio was a little to soft and some audio was hard to hear. Next time I tried letting the sounds drift more into the orange and occasional red. In post, the audio was often distorted. Can anyone recommend an optimal reading or method to get clear audio? I'm using a Sennheiser ME66-K6 shotgun.
Thanks for any help,
Bob

[Ron Little]

Are you using the manual settings or are you in auto?

[Bob Harotunian]

Manual.

[Ron Little]

I use the GL2 as my B-Roll Cam.

What I usually do with it is set the audio on auto and use a Sennheiser wireless shot gun on a stand or I have an assistant with the shotgun walk around to get a good shot of points of interest.

Because it is wireless she can get close to the action and I get good audio. I have never had a problem with AGC on my GL2 and it seems every bit as good in post as what I acquire manually with my DVX..

[Graham Bernard]

This is odd - nice, but strange!

I've just completed several paid projects, meaning using my XM2 in "anger". All event shoots. 2 weddings and 1 1st Holy Communion.

Being event shoots I plumbed for Easy Mode. The XM2 takes over and all is well with the World.

However, the colours didn't look right in the viewfinder or LCD - BUT, momentarily, switching to Manual Mode "P", going through the various presets for WB, Day Light, Indoors and nothing - THEN switching back to EASY mode the colours become spot-on!

I didn't WB - I left the AUTO WB icon remain flashing; I didn't do a WB "Set" procedure - all I did was go through the various "options" and view/determine the reaction of the XM2 to what was being presented to the XM2 and gauge what difference they made.

Weird! - Nice weird - But, I appear to be doing something correct - the final video looks spectacular - why didn't Easy Mode pick-up that which was being presented to it and "keep" that? Why did I need to go via - and I DO mean via - the "P" manual mode for Easy mode to pick this up?

Am I asking a silly question? What haven't I recognised within the instructions in the Users Manual that is so obvious?

Anyway, I did this work for a vidpro colleague - he's got 2 x Sony 9000 shoulder cammies - and he was highly delighted with my framing approach and the XM2's colour and quality output. - I 've got 3 more jobs with him this year and a further one for another chap.

Oh yes, I did get my VL-3 light. Haven't used this in a project yet, but it appears to give just enough "subtle" fill for the XM2, allowing the cammie to get a "bead" on what it wants - focus; low grain; solid colours, etc. The automatic "switch-on" is cute and it works as it should.

Please get back to me on the "VIA" thing . . .

Regards,

Grazie

[Ben Lynn]

Automatic modes just don't always hit the mark as you noticed when you started in the auto mode. I don't know why it changed over after you made some setting adjustments but it would behove you to learn how to manually white balance so that if you notice the auto is off a little you can make the adjustment yourself. I think that about 90% of the time the auto mode will get you through. Don't let yourself get burned by the other 10%.

Also, watch yourself when the lights go down. Every camera has a diffucult time focusing under low light conditions and you'll need to be ready to manually focus when you see that the auto focus is starting to drift. Actually it's better if you can train yourself to always use the manual focus. That keeps you out of that 10% for the focus.

Ben Lynn

[Graham Bernard]

Oh yes! Excellent advice . . . I'm learning what the manual options can give. Doing this at the same time as filming a quickly changing event shoot, like a wedding, is a major professional feat.

But yes, I agree with all you say.

Thanks Ben,

Regards,

Grazie

[Brendan Getchel]

Well, I've had the VZ-Rock with my GL2 for a couple of weeks now, and all I can say is -- bearing in mind that I'm a total noob and this is my first LANC experience -- WOW!

How ANYONE could POSSIBLY live without a decent LANC controller is beyond me. For the past few years I'd been shooting my trips with an El Cheap-O Panny 1-chip, a cheap Piece-O-Junk $100 "fluid head" tripod, and doing it all manually -- zooming with one hand on the rocker as I panned with "Skippy the Tripod."

And BOY did it show!

Well, the GL2 on a Gitzo G1380 "Fluide" head atop Gitzo G1325 carbon fiber sticks, and the VZ-ROCK securely fastened to the pan handle has catapulted my pans and zooms into an altogether different universe. That lovely "brushed aluminum" finish and all those wonderful controls are AWESOME! The zoom is so smooth and positive, the head pans and tilts like buttah -- I have found nirvana (all you ENG guys are chuckling, I know).

The only "issue" is the manual focus speed. This I perceive as a GL2 issue and not really the "ROCK's" fault, but it really does MF painfully slow. If you're pretty close and just need to fine-tune then you're golden (and fine-tune you can), but if you really need to go from blur to focus be prepared to wait. I have adapted (worked around, really) by hitting the "A" button on ROCK so it will AF quicky, then hit "A" again to do my fine-tuning.

Aside from that, it's worth every penny of those $320!

[Ed R. Young]

Does anyone know what type of male jack plug goes in this? And how many milliamps it will put out?