zoom problem - solved (DIY)

[Cosmin Rotaru]

My pleasure!

If you need to see some more XM2 guts, just ask! :)

[Alan Craven]

Regular readers may recall that I had my XM1 repaired just under two years ago - a complete new tape compartment door assembly was fitted. The zoom control failed again two weeks ago whilst I was in New Zealand. This time as soon as the camera is switched on it zooms automatically to max focal length. As before pressure on the zoom switch towards the centre line of the camera body effects a temporary solution.

I shall try Cosmin's solution before abandoning the camera. There seems to be little point in buying an XM2 as replacement as that suffers from the same design faults.

I suppose that I shall have to switch to Sony despite its shorter f lens - I will achieve some compensation by replacing my Sony 1.7X convertor with a Century 2X convertor.

[Alan Craven]

Oh dear!

The design of the cassette compartment door on the XM1 is totally different to the XM2, so Cosmin's excellent instructions were of little avail. I had to virtually dismantle the camera to get at the rocker switch, only to find that it was a sealed unit. The magic contact cleaner spray had no effect, so I have bought an XM2.

Now I just hope that Canon do not bring out the XM3 too soon!

The switch and its ribbon cable are a separate unit held into the door by two machine screws and a bit of tape, so the complete door unit I was charged for 2 years ago was a complete rip-off, as was the labour charge. If I were to dismantle and re-assemble again it would take less than an hour.

The quality of the switch itself is a disgrace.

[Kenneth Tong]

I used the following method to solve the zoom problem and it works! My big thanks to all of you!

"A little experimentation shows that this problem, in my camera at least, is due to the Zoom control rocker switch on the cassette compartment door. If this is pushed sideways, towards the main body of the camera, the spontaneous zooming, and continued zooming after the control is released, stop."

As I have to open & close the casette compartment door very frequently to change tape. The door lock is so close to the zoom botton and I might have pulled it sideways (outward direction) to hard during opening, which caused the zoom problem. I also suspect that too much heat may cause the problem. I hope the the above solution will last long.

I have used my XM1 for over 3 years, or trips and children performance. I love it especially low light performance.

[Salvador Arellano]

Wow!! So, I just spent an hour last night replacing the zoom rocker on the GL2. First of all, thank you Cosmin for the posts they helped alot. The other thing is that I'm not a DIY type person - just a little short on the $250 to send the camera in. So, for those of you who feel the same dont despair, the procedure is not that difficult - just have patience and pay attention to what you're doing.

Now for the info you want:

1. Paper cups - you'll need these to place all the screws you'll be removing from the chassis. Label each one to where they go on the camera - it makes it easier when you're reassembling.

2. Be careful not to strip the screws. I had a hell of a time removing the two screws from the rear of the chassis. Also, on the bottom plate there are 3 screws around the tripod connector that do not need to be removed.

3. I'm sorry but I didn't have a digital camera so I had to attach to this post a part of Cosmin's picture to illustrate what I'm talking about (I hope you don't mind!). After removing the door cover I had a hard time inserting the end of the cable from the new zoom rocker. What I ended up having to do is remove the actual metal door mechanism from the side panel cover (connected with five screws). I found that it was easier to connect the cable when the mechanism was completely closed (after it was removed from the side cover.) This exposed the connector slot more so that I could insert the end of the cable.

4. The next thing you want to do after the new zoom cable is inserted in the connector slot is remove the adhesive backing on the cable strip (that’s connected to the rocker)and adhere it the the metal door mechanism. Screw on the rocker AFTER you've done this. Do not attempt to screw the zoom rocker onto the metal door mechanism - it'll make
connecting the new cable strip to the slot more difficult.

5. Last thing, pay attention to how the brown cable strip (going from the side door cover part to the camera) is connected to the main body of the camera. I had to refer to Cosmin’s picture to put it back in the correct way. That's pretty much it. There's really nothing to this $250 dollar job except that $13.95 zoom rocker. Hope this helps.

Part#: DG1-7395-000
U.S.A Phone# direct to parts dept: 1-732-521-7230

[John B. Stambaugh]

Thanks to Cosmin and Salvador I have successfully installed the zoom rocker on my GL2.

First, I cleaned the zoom key assembly following Cosmin's instructions. It didn't help.

So, I ordered the part just as Salvador indicated. The Canon representative in the parts department was a very surprised that I had the part number. I told her about this thread and she said she would look at it.

I followed Cosmin and Salvador's instructions and took my time. I carefully observed the location of each screw. I have no training or experience with electronics.

Salvador's 5 steps are very important, including the paper cups for the screws.

Salvador's fifth step about the brown cable I did a little differently. I simply did not unplug it. I had my son hold the side door cover near the camera body as I worked with the zoom rocker cable.

For the first time in more than a year I now have a working zoom key.

Thank you Cosmin and Salvador.

By the way the cost of the zoom key including three day shipping was about US$21.

John

[Jesse James]

Never mind