Is the 5D worth it?

[Charles House]

I've been working with the T3i for a while now. It produces great images, but I haven't got to use it much because, without buying incredibly expensive lenses, there's not a lot I can do with it without a very patient client. The crop factor drives me nuts; yes, I can just back up, yes, I can zoom out, but the shake drives me crazy! No matter what, even minimal lens shake is more obvious with the crop factor.

I'm no rich man. Actually, I'm a recent college grad, I scrape by just to pay rent, and I sell stuff I own to buy new stuff most of the time (when in college, paying rent was easier, so I could spend more money on gear). The 5D would be such a stretch... and now, with the Mk III coming out, it seems like it's going to be outdated... And being not rich, my gear inevitably shakes more (fluid heads, shoulder rig, jib crane, slider system etc)... it's a vicious cycle.

What would you do in this situation?

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

There is no way that the 5D is 'outdated' and it still delivers outstanding video & stills. Just buy a secondhand mint-conditioned body on the cheap if you can't find the dosh for a new one, and then match it with a decent ultra-wide prime or zoom (or 24-105 IS) and you should be fine.

Another option is to buy an ultra-wide lens like the Tokina for your T3i.

If all else fails and you haven't got enough extra cash, then you're better off buying a cheap camcorder with inbuilt IS.

[Nigel Barker]

A simple monopod or lightweight tripod is the solution to the shakes. No need for any fancy fluid head just something that will stop the jittery handheld tremor.

[Jay Corcuera]

What lens do you use to shoot?? I use to shoot with 55mm super tak and found that too much of a tele and the shakes and jitters were a problem as well.. I got the sigma 17-50 w/os(is version for sima) and it definitely helps out.. Also like previously mentioned get a monopod..

[Les Wilson]

You describe the fundamental DSLR ergonomic problems. The crop factor isn't your problem. It's simply the lack of a wide lens. Lenses seem to be taken for granted maybe because they pretty much came with the video camcorder with nice power zooms that didn't shake the camera. Now that DSLR shooters have to do it by hand, they aren't so smooth and they easily shake the camera that's being held by one hand in a squeeze grip instead of a grab grip. Look at all the cages and rigs for DSLR cameras. THey all pretty much get you away from the squeeze and into the grab.

Anyway, I don't see a 5D addressing your issue. In fact, it will make them worse. Full frame lenses are a more expensive than EF-S ones and you don't have the option to use either, on a 5D you can only choose from full frame glass whereas something like a 7D lets you choose from full frame and EF-S.

[Buba Kastorski]

if it's about shaking - use support, don't shoot holding camera in your hands, unless you shooting with IS lenses,
if it's about 5DII - oh yes, amazing camera and worth every penny, I am keeping my for ever, even though i got 5DIII

[Nigel Barker]

The other simple trick if you have to handhold is to use a loupe which provides a third point of contact & stabilises the camera. A decent cheap one branded Neewer or GGS can be found on Amazon for $50-60

[Bill Pryor]

Look for used Nikkor lenses and get adapters. An f2.8 24mm can probably be found for a couple hundred dollars or less. That gives you the feel of about a 38mm on the APS-C sensor and that's probably about as long a lens as you should hand hold anyway. With a shoulder mount and LCD viewer (loupe) I can hand hold 50mm pretty steady, but if you're just holding the camera up with no stabilization, you want to stay as wide as you can. The cheap kit zoom lens with IS isn't bad for that kind of thing, but even so, get a tripod. Shooting video hand held should be considered an effect and used only when you want that effect.

Also, don't get caught in the trap of thinking that every new model that comes out makes the previous model obsolete. The manufacturers love it when you think that way. If your T2i stuff looks good and you're making money with it, then that's all you need for now. Going to a full frame camera will make it easier to find wide angle lenses, but it won't solve any other issues.

[Robert Turchick]

Everything mentioned in this thread is good advice. The body is not the issue. Crop is not the issue. It's all about support and correct lens choice.
And I'd point more to support than lens.
I regularly shoot with my 70-200, mostly on tripod but quite a bit shoulder mount. No shakes.
On my 7D I use a z-finder but there are much less expensive loupes out there. And shoulder rigs can be had for a couple hundred bucks too. Points of contact is the trick!

[Charles House]

Originally Posted by Jay Corcuera

What lens do you use to shoot?? I use to shoot with 55mm super tak and found that too much of a tele and the shakes and jitters were a problem as well.. I got the sigma 17-50 w/os(is version for sima) and it definitely helps out.. Also like previously mentioned get a monopod..

Oddly enough, one of them is a Super Takumar, along with a few others 55mms, a 35mm, and a 28mm. All vintage stuff, though, not because I'm a hipster, but because I spent my cash on the body and kit lenses, which have about as deep of a dof as my hvx200 and handle minimal light WAY worse.

A ultra wide would be nice, I guess the main concern is distortion, depth of field, and sharpness...

It's between the 11-16mm Tokina, 17-50mm Sigma, and a 24mm or some flavor... Any input?