New 5d3 - Now what? EVF or LCDVF or Zfinder?

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

In my view it is far better to use a very high quality loup that can be fitted to the 5D and most other cameras by simply gluing it permanently to a cheap viewfinder shade. It is also a cheaper and better quality option than buying a Zacuto, Hoodman or similar units.

I use a clip mount. This was made by removing the shade flaps on a LCD 5D pop-up shade (bought for a few pounds or dollars on Ebay) and then simply glueing the high quality loup to the LCD shade mount (a thin line of liquid rubber is squeezed along the edges of the loup frame to form a light-tight fit).

The loup can then be slipped on & off the camera in seconds. No need for silly bands or magnets to hold it in place. It just clips firmly into place by sliding over the viewfinder eyepiece. If you even upgrade your camera in the future, to a 5D mark 4 or Mark 5 etc, just buy another cheap LCD shade and fit your original loup to it. One quality loup should last you a lifetime.

One of the highest quality loups is the superb models made by Hassleblad and is what I prefer to use on my 5D cameras.
The Hasselblad Chimney Loup is well made (of metal and glass) and very sharp with inbuilt magnification of the image on the focusing screen at 2.5x for a full-frame view of the screen, without the need for moving the eye, and it also manually adjusts from 3.5 to -2.5 diopters. For photos of my Hassleblad on the older 5D MK2, view this previous DVinfo thread: http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-eo...-took-lcd.html

[Josh Bass]

That's some stuff I READ about the Swivi. The reviews in the above-posted Amazon link may say differently; many folks on there seem very satisfied with it. I'd certainly look into one in the future.

Right now I have the $80 "Sock Loupe", which may seem/look ridiculous, but hey, it works. I do have to wrestle with it occasionally to get it back in place when it moves, but for someone only occasionally using a DSLR, who doesn't find it worth it right now to invest in a zacuto, it's a pretty good solution. As for anything involving adhesives, I wouldn't go down that route again. My LCDVF $40 knockoff looked great, worked great. . .except for that. Couldn't get the adhesive to to adhere. Unless the actual LCDVF has much better adhesive, I'd trust rubber bands or mounting plates first.

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

With my Hasselblad Chimney Loup there is no glue needed to keep it on the 5D live-view screen, nor sticky frames or elastic bands, or magnets.

The Hasselblad is joined permanently to a separate mount that clips into place by sliding into the side grooves of the original Canon viewfinder.

[Josh Bass]

That is interesting. Just did a google search for Hasselblad Chimney Finder. . .looks like they run about $100?

I guess I never noticed the 5D had any kind of grooves around the LCD to slip anything into (I don't have a cam in front of me at the moment).

Liquid rubber sounds like the questionable part of that formula. . .how secure is that bond? Vulnerable to heat, moisture, etc.?

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

Josh, take a look at this video (scroll halfway down page) on this earlier DVinfo thread to see a DIY job. In place of the Hoodman shown in the video clip, I use the much higher quality Hasselblad chimney loup.

http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-eo...ml#post1507304

In the video it shows the thin plastic clear protector panel on the LCD pop-up shade left in place, but I have removed this because it scratches easily and I would rather have a cleaner image viewed through the Hassleblad finder.

I sometimes fit and remove the Hasselblad many times a day during a hectic photo/video session, so also have a JYC Optical Glass Protector permanently in place over the 5D LCD screen.

[Josh Bass]

Watched the video with sound off (im in the presence of company and, as you can see by this posting, am obviously very engaged with them). I never saw him actually attach the shade to the cam-- i still dont see how it attaches. You mentioned some kind of groove or something? Ive never noticed it/them.

[Josh Bass]

Ah. Ok. Got my hands on the 5dm2, and now I see how the little rubbebr cup around the optical eyepiece slides off and the pop up shade can slide on.

I still have my lcdvf knockoff and could try that with one of those cheap shades (and mess with the hasselblad loupe later if desired).

There are a couple different price points for the shades on ebay ($11, $25). Is there one you'd recommend?

Also, specifically what adhesive did you use to attach the loupe to the frame? Keep in mind I'm in the US so available products might be different here.

[Nigel Barker]

Originally Posted by Les Wilson

I abandoned the Z-Finder. The fundamental problem is the ergonomics of the 5DMx. Even a loupe on the screen doesn't change the problem that it's difficult to hold and operate straight off your face either handheld or on a tripod (especially). I mean think about it, one of the first things you learn in photography is to move away from the standing position. But you can't do that very well when you have to have the cameras up against your face.

I don't buy this argument. Stills photographers have no problem shooting with a camera jammed up against the face.

[Nigel Barker]

To pick up on a couple of other points.

The Swivi & Carryspeed loupes are the same thing.

Glueing a decent loupe to a cheap sunshade is an ingenious solution & I am surprised that no one offers this commercially. However the only sunshades available are for the 5D2 & they won't fit the larger screen of the 5D3.

[Josh Bass]

Good to know about the swivi/carryspeed

Luckily the cam I have access to (via the girlfriend) is an M2, so with the cost of the shade and some liquid rubber, I can try that out with my LCDVF knockoff.

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

I first stick the Hasselblad loup to the pop-up shade using a decent bonding agent, such as Araldite or similar strong glue that provides a bit of flex across wide temperature ranges of severe heat and cold.

Superglue does work in emergencies, but it tends to crack more under stress or varied temperatures...and has a habit of permanently bonding your eyelids shut... and often tears three layers of skin from your fingers when you need to extract yourself from the two objects you're trying to bond together. :)

The Hassy loup has a flat metal base, which provides a fairly decent area to fix glue.
Once the first layer has had time to dry correctly, then add a fairly thick layer of black rubber glue or flexible black Silicone Sealant all along edges of both bases, so that there is a light-tight seal running completely around the rim.

The loup should now be permanently in place and form part of the pop-up frame. During the past few years I have on a couple of occasions accidentally banged the loup very hard (usually when I'm jumping into a boat or running with the camera plus 300mm or 600mm lens on a tripod chucked over my shoulder, in an attempt not to miss filming a once-in-a-lifetime event). So always keep some spare glue in one of my bags just for emergency repairs, which are rare. (I've recently been filming for six solid weeks on location without a problem).

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

Originally Posted by Nigel Barker

...However the only sunshades available are for the 5D2 & they won't fit the larger screen of the 5D3.

Nigel, I have seen 5D Mk3 pop-up LCD shades available from time to time on Ebay, so they are made, although not as many seem to be sold as the ones that fit the Mk2.

If you are having trouble finding a 5D Mark III shade, then try a GGS III LCD Screen Protector glass frame as they might also work as a base for the loup.

[Josh Bass]

Thanks. NOw, these adhesives, where does one acquire them? Hardware store? Art supply? Shady street vendor with sores on his face?

[Les Wilson]

Originally Posted by Nigel Barker

I don't buy this argument. Stills photographers have no problem shooting with a camera jammed up against the face.

It's not the holding it against your face for a second, it's doing it for a bunch of seconds or even on a tripod where the camera isn't at face level. It's one thing to set up a shot and click a photo. It's another to hold it for 20-30-100 seconds. Setting up a shot on a tripod that's chest level renders the issue explicit. On knees you are too low. Turn sideways, well, you are sideways. How long can you hold a squat? Can you hold it down there and follow focus and ride exposure? What about a shot 12" off the ground?

An EVF is a good step in taking the DSLR past is limitations as far as being a video acquistion device.

[Tony Davies-Patrick]

Josh, a shady street vendor with sores on his face seems a viable option, but if he's been moved on by the cops, buy from most hardware or DIY stores and large supermarkets, or online websites or Ebay. In UK, the B&Q or Halfords stores generally have a good selection.