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Canon EOS Full Frame for HD
All about using the Canon 1D X, 6D, 5D Mk. IV / Mk. III / Mk. II D-SLR for 4K and HD video recording.

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Old August 18th, 2009, 05:54 AM   #31
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Hi Chris,

I pasted the configuration you posted into the config file and now I am getting sound in my 5D2. Before when I was using the stock ML, there is only static when recording video. Now that I am getting sound again, just wondering how the sound quality is compared to the original stock 5D2 audio recording now that the AGC is disabled. Or its the same? I am planning on getting the Juicelink but for now I can only compare with the stock audio but to me it sounds about the same. Thanks.

Alex
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Old August 18th, 2009, 08:38 AM   #32
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Alex:

There is no change in the mic and audio quality. The only thing that changes is that Auto gain is disabled. That means you won't have that horrible hiss start going up in volume during silent parts of ou shooting. With the level control, you can raise or lower gain, even on the camera mic. it does not change the fact that you will be picking up camera noise and such either. So best bet, as with any sound recording is to get mic off camera and closer to your subject.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 09:20 AM   #33
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Hi Chris,

Thanks for the quick answer. The sound does improve. Less hissy noise. I guess I need the Juicelink to get the same kind of audio you hear like what Jon did with the tests.

Can't wait to get myself a JL.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 10:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tramm Hudson View Post
Live monitoring works on HDMI, with some caveats. It outputs very nice 1080i while framing and composing the shots
What does this 1080i mean? Will we be able to use 1080 rez output with one of these toys for external recording?

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Old August 18th, 2009, 11:39 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Mathieu Kassovitz View Post
What does this 1080i mean? Will we be able to use 1080 rez output with one of these toys for external recording?

Convergent Design - nanoFlash - Professional HD/SD Recorder/Player

KI PRO - AJA Video - Serial Digital Video Interface and Conversion
If you send me one, I will let you know.....:)
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Old August 19th, 2009, 08:54 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Steve Cahill View Post
After you set focus points, dismiss the menu, than hit record than go back to focus menu while recording and start rack focus. I cannot get the camera to record video when in the menu first time around.
I still can't get rack focus to work; tried everything I can think of. My thoughts at this time:
a. I'm doing something wrong, or
b. There is a bug, or
c. My camera/lens is somehow different than the test cameras
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Old August 19th, 2009, 09:47 PM   #37
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Charles, what lens are you using?
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Old August 19th, 2009, 11:01 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Jon Fairhurst View Post
Charles, what lens are you using?
I've tried the 24-105L and 17-40L. Have not tried other lenses yet.
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Old August 20th, 2009, 10:22 AM   #39
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Unfortunately, those don't overlap with my lenses (28/1.8, 35/2, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 200/2.8 L II). Has anybody else had success with the zooms? Certainly somebody has tried e-rack focus with the kit lens.
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Old August 25th, 2009, 09:28 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Charles W. Hull View Post
I still can't get rack focus to work; tried everything I can think of. My thoughts at this time:
a. I'm doing something wrong, or
b. There is a bug, or
c. My camera/lens is somehow different than the test cameras
I just got a cheap 28-80 Canon zoom and was able to come up with this How To that I added to the Magic Lantern Manual. See if this explanation helps. Jon, and others, check me out, cause I just got my lens, and may still be misunderstanding process as intended.

How it Works: Now that you know what the buttons are about, here is how you make it work:

1. After opening the focus menu, pick the end point of you focus, focusing manually with your lens on that point.


2. Next on the Focus Menu, select the direction you will have to focus to in order to find the start point. If the start point is a closer focus, pick Near, if it a farther away focus point, pick Far. ( Remember, you are simply telling camera which direction to go to find the start point.)


3. Next, scroll down to Focus A. You need to zero this setting out, before going on. Press "Set" to zero it out.


4. Once that is completed you will use the Zoom + button in the very right hand upper corner of the back of the camera to move the focus point to your start point. You will need to watch the screen closely to make sure you reach the proper point.


5. Next select the time period of the pull, by scrolling down to rack speed. The lower the number, the longer the rack will take. It is recommended for testing purposes to start around 20.


6. Once that is done, you need to exit the Magic Lantern Menu, to start the camera recording


7. Once the camera is recording, re-enter the Magic Lantern Focus Menu, and scroll to Rack Focus. To start the rack focus, press "Set". You should see the rack focus commence and complete its cycle.


8. To return to the beginning point, you can press Set again to return to that point once again.
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Old August 27th, 2009, 02:36 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Chris Barcellos View Post
I ... was able to come up with this How To...
Yes, this works for me ... thanks very much for the detailed "How To". It's very close to Jon's original explanation but I couldn't quite get that to go. This adds great capability to the 5DII - hope I don't overdo it.
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Old September 18th, 2009, 03:30 AM   #42
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Here's a question regarding the feasibility of incorporating a new feature into a future release of the firmware — I realize this is me being a bit greedy, so bear in mind that I am completely and utterly thankful for all the amazing, generous work you've done so far!

I've been looking into getting something to help with critical focus monitoring and was strongly considering this (if I can get a grant for my next film project that is... it's a bit over $1000): Marshall Electronics' "V-LCD70P-HDMI" (info about it here: Marshall Electronics - V-LCD70P-HDMI).

It has functionality in its software that would be absolutely fantastic to see at work in a Magic Lantern firmware update. By applying certain viewing filters to the video feed, it displays whether or not certain areas of the video are over- or under-exposed, as well as a really nice feature that shows the footage as black and white, highlighting the properly-focused areas in pink. Love that you added zebra stripes, but this kind of exposure control seems like a significant step further in functionality... and to have instant feedback regarding how accurate the focus is without having to press the zoom button to preview certain areas (or getting a Z-Finder, I'm sure it's great, but I find it way too pricey for what it is) would be just absolutely wonderful.

I know nothing at all about the kind of work that would go into something like this and don't even know if the existing camera hardware would support a feature of this type, but it certainly would add yet another compelling reason for any filmmaking Mark II adopter to go "open source."

Does this strike you as something that could even be possible on this camera?

Cheers, and many thanks,
-Sean
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Old September 21st, 2009, 10:04 AM   #43
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Install

I purchased the 5D about two weeks ago and I'm wondering if anyone has had a problem with ML installs? I want to install the upgrade but I'm a little nervous. Is it easy to return to the current Canon firmware (if needed)?
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Old September 21st, 2009, 11:21 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Chris Lognion View Post
I purchased the 5D about two weeks ago and I'm wondering if anyone has had a problem with ML installs? I want to install the upgrade but I'm a little nervous. Is it easy to return to the current Canon firmware (if needed)?
It's no problem at all.

In fact, Magic Lantern shouldn't be called firmware. Maybe tempware, sideware, or overlayware is a better term.

The way it works is you load it on all of the CF cards that you will use. You can also load a personalized configuration file, and a custom guides bitmap that you can choose for 4x3, 16x9, 2.35:1 or whatever aspect, crosshairs, safe zone, etc.

When you start the camera, it runs pure Canon firmware. You optionally load ML. (Takes less than five seconds.) The code loads temporarily into RAM - it never burns into the Flash ROM. When you are done shooting your sequence, turn off the camera and pull the battery for a couple of seconds. This ensures that no trace of ML is in the camera. The next time you start it, you're back to pure Canon code.

It's good (and easy) to develop the habit of pulling the battery. This ensures that there are no remnant loops running. It's possible that ongoing code could drain the battery more quickly than usual.

In a worst case, the processor could overheat on a hot day in the sun. However, I have yet to hear of anybody bricking their camera. I saw the overheating warning once when leaving the camera on a tripod with the LCD in direct sunlight on a hot day. (Magic Lantern or not, a sunshade is a good idea.) I let the camera rest a few minutes and resumed shooting with ML and with no problems.

Being a little paranoid at first is a good thing. You'll be itching to pull the battery quickly and often. Pretty soon you relax when using the "tempware", but the habit of pulling the battery stays firmly imprinted.

For us users, the risk is quite low. Tramm is the one taking real risks, as he's prodding hardware registers as he experiments to figure out what does what. And Tramm's camera is still running strong - Knock on wood. :)

Personally, I won't shoot any video without it.
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Old September 21st, 2009, 11:27 AM   #45
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Chris:

The ML firmware does nothing to the in Camera firmware. Once you turn camera off and pop your battery, all vestiges of ML are gone from the camera system. The battery pop is recommnend in case anything is in the memory system, to clear it.

You should look at ML as a supplement to the current 1.10 firmware. I have run and tested several version, and have not had issues.

You will occasionally see the camera hicup.... and not normally during recording, but solvable by a shut down, and restart.

Check out Wiki pages: Magic Lantern Firmware Wiki

A user manual is here:
Magic Lantern 0.1.6 User Manual - Magic Lantern Firmware Wiki
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