quick clarification

[Ozan Biron]

Im jst about to receive the markII with novoflex nikon adapter. Ive read quite a few posts on many threads from different websites. I couldnt find a clear answer and got confused on a few things.

From what i undersand the SHUTTER & ISO are auto but you are able to lock them before u start recording.

My question is... as soon as u start recording does the SHUTTER and ISO remain locked when cameras moves from a really bright room to dark area? Or will the ISO and SHUTTER fluctuate and adjust to the lighting conditions during recording? Will adjustment on the nikon aperture cause iso and shutter to change during recording? Or do they stay?

[Mike Hannon]

If you engage exposure lock by pressing the * button before you start the recording then shutter speed and ISO will remain locked for the duration of that clip, even if you change the aperture during the clip.

As soon as the clip is finished the shutter speed and ISO revert to auto mode and it will be necessary to lock them again, if desired, before beginning the second clip and so on.

[Ozan Biron]

Originally Posted by Mike Hannon

If you engage exposure lock by pressing the * button before you start the recording then shutter speed and ISO will remain locked for the duration of that clip, even if you change the aperture during the clip.

As soon as the clip is finished the shutter speed and ISO revert to auto mode and it will be necessary to lock them again, if desired, before beginning the second clip and so on.

ok cool thanks.

Since my shoot takes place at night. I'd like to retain the same ISO and shutter evrytime. I know its difficult as it sets back to auto after u stop recording. Im thinking of up loading various colour grades samples from white to black to an itouch. Then by trail and error i can place itouch LCD front of the lens and try different shades to see which will give me the best iso and shutter. Once i find the sweet spot, I can then retain the same setting each time before I start filming.

In theory it should work?!?

[Jon Oskar]

Originally Posted by Ozan Biron

Im thinking of up loading various colour grades samples from white to black to an itouch. Then by trail and error i can place itouch LCD front of the lens and try different shades to see which will give me the best iso and shutter. Once i find the sweet spot, I can then retain the same setting each time before I start filming.

In theory it should work?!?

Hey Ozan,

Keep us posted if this works.

[Ozan Biron]

Originally Posted by Jon Oskar

Hey Ozan,

Keep us posted if this works.

Im jst thinking out loud... maybe this might work. This might be easyer and quicker? Im going to see if i can go and rent one for the weekend when the markII comes.

Litepanels Micro LED Camera Obie Light

Says...

"The Litepanels Micro features a conveniently located integrated on/off dimmer switch at the top of its housing for instant 100% to 0 dimming."

[Jon Fairhurst]

You can definitely get repeatable settings, especially with a manual Nikon lens.

First, put the mode dial in manual, and set the Live View Screen Setting as "Movie Display." Then enter Live View.

Press the shutter halfway, so you can see the exposure settings. You might need to press the Info button to get the desired mode.

Adjust the exposure control to one extreme or the other. This will give you more range when adjusting later.

Press the shutter button half way occasionally, so it doesn't time out.

Shine a light or shade it in order to get either 1/40 shutter or 100 ISO. Press AE Lock.

Now adjust the exposure compensation.

If the camera was set at 1/40, you can adjust to virtually any ISO. If the camera was set to 100 ISO, you can adjust to virtually any shutter speed.

That's how we did our shutter test: ~ The Murder of Dirk Snowglobe - Article: 5D Mark II Shutter Exposed! ~

Best of luck!

[Ozan Biron]

Originally Posted by Jon Fairhurst

If the camera was set at 1/40, you can adjust to virtually any ISO. If the camera was set to 100 ISO, you can adjust to virtually any shutter speed.

Jon Fairhurst,

I watched the shutter test video.... was interesting to watch. thanks

My project takes place at night. I want to retain a simple shutter speed but beable to adjust the iso from 800 - 1000...

SOoo ur telling me that i can adjust virtually use any ISO once the shutter is set? Can i technically maintain a a shutter of 1/40 and ISO of 1000 during my entire project? Then once i record i can then adjust the rest of the image with the aperture on my nikon lens?

[Jon Fairhurst]

Originally Posted by Ozan Biron

JCan i technically maintain a a shutter of 1/40 and ISO of 1000 during my entire project?

That's absolutely the case.

My approach would be to set everything at 1/40 (assuming you want a "normal" shutter look), adjust aperture as needed to get the desired DOF, and adjust ISO to optimize your exposure. Keep in mind that aperture changes the artistic look of your shots by changing DOF, while ISO doesn't really change the look, aside from the amount of noise in the image.

Anything 1000 ISO and below is generally quite good. BTW, many of the night scenes that you see on Vimeo are 1/30 and 3200 ISO. The camera likes that setting in low light.

[Ozan Biron]

Originally Posted by Jon Fairhurst

That's absolutely the case.

My approach would be to set everything at 1/40 (assuming you want a "normal" shutter look), adjust aperture as needed to get the desired DOF, and adjust ISO to optimize your exposure. Keep in mind that aperture changes the artistic look of your shots by changing DOF, while ISO doesn't really change the look, aside from the amount of noise in the image.

Anything 1000 ISO and below is generally quite good. BTW, many of the night scenes that you see on Vimeo are 1/30 and 3200 ISO. The camera likes that setting in low light.

From wat i understood the shutter and iso are both automatic at the same time. I kinda got confused on how would u lock one while attempting to adjust the other!?!

I guess once the shutter is set. I could then set my nikon lens to "F5.6", then use the LED dimmer to adjust the iso settings? Once recording... I figure "F5.6" would give me some play to adjust the aperture while shooting.

Yes, id like to aim for 1/40. The commercial is going to be convert from 30p to 24p professionally without using any 3rd party software. Theres a local conversion house that does film transfer etc... They have a special patented digital machine that mathematically does magic to footage with conversion rates. The conversion is a bit pricey but worth it instead of using magicbullet or any other software.

[Jon Oskar]

Originally Posted by Jon Fairhurst

You can definitely get repeatable settings, especially with a manual Nikon lens.

First, put the mode dial in manual, and set the Live View Screen Setting as "Movie Display." Then enter Live View.

Press the shutter halfway, so you can see the exposure settings. You might need to press the Info button to get the desired mode.

Adjust the exposure control to one extreme or the other. This will give you more range when adjusting later.

Press the shutter button half way occasionally, so it doesn't time out.

Shine a light or shade it in order to get either 1/40 shutter or 100 ISO. Press AE Lock.

Now adjust the exposure compensation.

If the camera was set at 1/40, you can adjust to virtually any ISO. If the camera was set to 100 ISO, you can adjust to virtually any shutter speed.

That's how we did our shutter test: ~ The Murder of Dirk Snowglobe - Article: 5D Mark II Shutter Exposed! ~

Best of luck!

So what shutter speed should we use in Euroland for the "normal" shutter look?

[Jon Fairhurst]

Originally Posted by Ozan Biron

From wat i understood the shutter and iso are both automatic at the same time. I kinda got confused on how would u lock one while attempting to adjust the other!?!

I guess once the shutter is set. I could then set my nikon lens to "F5.6", then use the LED dimmer to adjust the iso settings? Once recording... I figure "F5.6" would give me some play to adjust the aperture while shooting.

Yeah, the two play off of each other when they are unlocked. The trick is to lock them, and then adjust the exposure compensation with the back wheel. When at 1/40 shutter, the wheel adjusts ISO. When at 100 ISO, the wheel adjusts shutter. But you have to lock it first.

[Jon Fairhurst]

Originally Posted by Jon Oskar

So what shutter speed should we use in Euroland for the "normal" shutter look?

By "normal" shutter, I meant not super fast.

Typically, film is shot every 1/24 second and the shutter is 1/48, or 180 degrees. When the Canon shows 1/40 (or 1/50), it's actually shooting at about 1/45, so that's pretty close.

The problem is that the Canon shoots at 30 fps. So maybe 1/60 shutter would be better. You can get that, but only at 100 ISO. That leaves us with 1/40 (displayed; 1/45 or so in reality) as the most practical speed, since it gives us the most freedom with ISO.

I see the camera as having three useful shutter styles:

1) 1/30 and 3200 ISO is what the camera likes to run in really dark environments.
2) 1/40 and any ISO is the most flexible for typical shots
3) 100 ISO allows the fast shutter look. Throw enough light at the camera, and you can get close to the Saving Private Ryan look, where dirt from explosions is frozen still. We found that motion blur almost goes away at 1/500 and above in our record player test.

BTW, we shot The Last Outpost with a 1/320 shutter and 100 ISO for the outdoor snow scenes. The indoor scenes are 1/40 shutter. ~ The Murder of Dirk Snowglobe - Article: Short Film "The Last Outpost" Released ~

[Jon Oskar]

Originally Posted by Jon Fairhurst

By "normal" shutter, I meant not super fast.
That leaves us with 1/40 (displayed; 1/45 or so in reality) as the most practical speed, since it gives us the most freedom with ISO.
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So you for both 24p and 25p environments you suggest shutter 40, because it is really 45? And so the closest we can get?

[Jon Fairhurst]

Originally Posted by Jon Oskar

So you for both 24p and 25p environments you suggest shutter 40, because it is really 45? And so the closest we can get?

For all framerates I suggest 1/40 because you can then set whatever ISO you prefer.

If you want other (faster) framerates, you are stuck with 100 ISO. This is only viable if you have a lot of light.

To keep things consistent and keep a shallow DOF in daylight, you might need a collection of ND filters.

1/40 isn't ideal. It's a bit slow. But it's the most flexible, due to Canon's lack of manual control. If Canon were to give us manual control, I'd choose 1/60.

[Jon Oskar]

Thanks. Are you sure the camera reads out is what it is really shooting at?