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Canon EOS Full Frame for HD
All about using the Canon 1D X, 6D, 5D Mk. IV / Mk. III / Mk. II D-SLR for 4K and HD video recording.

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Old December 9th, 2008, 02:23 PM   #1
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Possibly "Odd" Power Supply Question

I plan on doing a bit of video production with this camera.
In general, I think I'll be happy with the on-board batteries, but I was thinking:
I'll likely be mounting this camera on rails (ala: Redrock for video DSLRs ), and will have a small external monitor. I have a Gold Mount and a series of Anton Bauer Hytron and Dyonic batteries that I could put on the back of the rails to power the monitor and I thought, Can it power the camera too? If so, that would be an "all week" kind of battery setup.

Does anyone know if this is a possible option?
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Old December 9th, 2008, 05:37 PM   #2
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Here's a link to the manual and other downloads. (Maybe this link could be added to a separate sticky.)
Canon EOS 5D Mark II Digital SLR Camera

According to p196, the ACK-E6 AC Adapter Kit connects an AC outlet to the camera. The kit has two parts: the AC-E6 AC Adapter (providing a DC output), and the DR-E6, the DC Coupler, which is a fake battery with a DC power cord (p210). The voltage is 8 VDC (p221).

The connector from the DR-E6 looks like a typical concentric DC connector, used with many consumer electronic products. Unlike most bricks, the male plug comes from the camera, rather than the brick.

BTW, I missed getting a 5D2 by a couple of hours today. Still waiting...
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Old December 9th, 2008, 06:12 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jon Fairhurst View Post
The connector from the DR-E6 looks like a typical concentric DC connector, used with many consumer electronic products.
I, too, will be attempting some unusual power supply. I'd like to shoot up to 72 hours of non-stop long-exposure timelapse using deep-cycle marine batteries. Some astronomers (like in our local RCA, Jon) rig an all-DC connection themselves by opening a Canon battery. That's beyond my skills, so maybe I should first look for a way to adapt the DR-E6 to the marine battery.
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Old December 9th, 2008, 06:48 PM   #4
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Hi Guys...............

Wouldn't be suprised if there was an "off the shelf" solution knocking around somewhere, tho' not one that immediately springs to mind.

What would be usefull, well, OK, imperative, is knowing the rated output voltage from the various battery supplies and the expected input voltage to the camera, along with the expected or rated current drain.

If a ready made solution isn't out there it shouldn't be too tricky to "cobble something together" to do the job, hey, it's only a series pass voltage regulator after all.

I take it from Jon's post the expected camera voltage is 8 Volts, is this correct?

From memory a simple series pass regulator needs about 2 volts overhead, implying a minimum battery output of 10 volts. If all the possible battery supplies satisfy that requirement then I think it's possible.

Less than that and it's getting a tad more involved as we're into DC to DC converters.

One possible hurdle that could trip it all up is if the camera needs that third connector from the power supply to "talk" to the on board computer.

Has that DC cable with the dummy battery got two contacts or three? More?

From memory none of the dummy battery units I've seen to date have used the third terminal, but that doesn't mean this one won't.


CS
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Old February 27th, 2009, 03:38 PM   #5
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Canon 5D power

Dear Mr. Roddy,

I currently make a sled mountable base for the Canon 5D which uses Anton Bauer Hytron / Dionic batteries. It will supply power for your 12 vdc accessories (lights, monitor) and the 7.2 vdc required for the camera body.

Hope this is helpful.

Larry
lexicon.demon@gmail.com
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Old February 27th, 2009, 04:19 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Chris Soucy View Post
If a ready made solution isn't out there
I bought Hutech's 5D2 DC adapter (sku: EOS211) for $130.
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Old February 27th, 2009, 07:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Soucy View Post
Wouldn't be suprised if there was an "off the shelf" solution knocking around somewhere, tho' not one that immediately springs to mind.

What would be usefull, well, OK, imperative, is knowing the rated output voltage from the various battery supplies and the expected input voltage to the camera, along with the expected or rated current drain.

If a ready made solution isn't out there it shouldn't be too tricky to "cobble something together" to do the job, hey, it's only a series pass voltage regulator after all.

I take it from Jon's post the expected camera voltage is 8 Volts, is this correct?

From memory a simple series pass regulator needs about 2 volts overhead, implying a minimum battery output of 10 volts. If all the possible battery supplies satisfy that requirement then I think it's possible.

Less than that and it's getting a tad more involved as we're into DC to DC converters.

One possible hurdle that could trip it all up is if the camera needs that third connector from the power supply to "talk" to the on board computer.

Has that DC cable with the dummy battery got two contacts or three? More?

From memory none of the dummy battery units I've seen to date have used the third terminal, but that doesn't mean this one won't.


CS
If you are using any current at all a series-pass will heat up things too much. It will waste almost half of the power from a normal "12-Volt" battery, which actually run 14 to 16 volts.

A DC to DC converter is almost a requirement.
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Old February 28th, 2009, 03:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Roddy View Post
I plan on doing a bit of video production with this camera.
In general, I think I'll be happy with the on-board batteries, but I was thinking:
I'll likely be mounting this camera on rails (ala: Redrock for video DSLRs ), and will have a small external monitor. I have a Gold Mount and a series of Anton Bauer Hytron and Dyonic batteries that I could put on the back of the rails to power the monitor and I thought, Can it power the camera too? If so, that would be an "all week" kind of battery setup.

Does anyone know if this is a possible option?
My unit is off the shelf and ships in 3 to 5 business days. Email me at lexicon.demon@gmail.com . Custom mounts for the 5D are also available. (follow focus, Matte Box, etc.)
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Old March 1st, 2009, 10:50 AM   #9
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I made one using and AB mount and it has multiple variable outputs check it out here:

http://vimeo.com/2936707

x2 monitored and adjustable outputs
x1 unmonitored, 2 connector, adjustable but set to 12 V outputs
Outputs range from 1.2 VDC to 13.7 VDC
Lemo Connectors

I plan on putting an AC/DC converter in it also so that I can run off power if I want to.

The box was custom built to our specs by RCI custom and they did a great job.

The prices are something like this:

Panel multimeters - $15 x2
Switching voltage regulators - $20 x4
Lemo female connectors - $18 x4
Lemo Male connectors - $25 x4
Anton Bauer Gold mount - $90 x1
Custom Box - $150 x1

Total cost with other misc stuff about $530

Hope it helps. schematic of how it's wired: http://www.cgllc.com/battery/
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Old March 1st, 2009, 01:42 PM   #10
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Would 5D MKII burn down if the voltage on the charged battery is 8.4 instead of 8.2 Volts?
I'm seeing such difference on a tester display and don't want to burn down my cam by accident

T
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Old March 1st, 2009, 02:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toenis Liivamaegi View Post
Would 5D MKII burn down if the voltage on the charged battery is 8.4 instead of 8.2 Volts?
That's within 2.5%. I'm sure that's no problem at all.

Consider that overclockers often juice the voltage to the RAM by 25% or more - and then run the system 24/7. The heat from a 2.5% voltage bump will be minimal. Shooting in Death Valley in the summer would be way more stressful than a small voltage bump in normal temperatures.
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Old March 1st, 2009, 03:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toenis Liivamaegi View Post
Would 5D MKII burn down if the voltage on the charged battery is 8.4 instead of 8.2 Volts?
I'm seeing such difference on a tester display and don't want to burn down my cam by accident

T
The 5D2 has to handle different voltages since it is run off of battery. 8.4 would be no problem.

But there is a maximum voltage that we don't know. Some devices heat up but other devices just pop like a fuse. There would only be one way to find out. Anyone want to donate a 5D2 to experiment on?
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