"Shakyness" with the 50mm 1.8 (7D)

[Luca Bogo]

Hey folks,

I just uploaded a video shot with the 7D on a 50mm lens (the cheap plastic one). Here's the link:
Sensed: "Absence" - YouTube

Personally the small "jitter shake" does not bother me too much, but a friend of mine felt the opposite as for him it ruined the entire feel. What is your opinion on it?

What exactly is this jitter caused by? Obviously being handheld is a big cause but I suppose it's also because lacking a image stabilization on the lens. Any tips on how to reduce this would be wonderful, thank you :)

[Robert Turchick]

Looks more like shutter speed issue. If you're not at double the frame rate (ie 24fps = shutter speed approx 48 or 30fps = 60) it can induce strobing.

Since it's virtually outdoor lighting, you should be using an ND filter to control light, set your ISO to 100 and shutter as described above. Then your aperture controls DOF.

I use a Singh Ray variable ND which allows me to fine control the light. If you use a regular ND, you may need a set to dial in exactly where you need to be.

unfortunately it's not something that can be fixed in post.

To verify my observation, can you post your iso, aperture and shutter speed used?

I use the 50mm 1.4 and the 28mm 1.8 and get silky smooth video from them. Handheld induces a different kind of shake.

[Mikko Topponen]

I also hate the jitteryness of DSLR footage using 50mm or higher lenses. The sigma 30mm f1.4 prime is better for that purpose as it's wider and the jitter is not as pronounced. You need to also stabilise the image somewhat. Handheld works if you have a shouldermount or somesuch. Just keeping it in hand will produce horrible jitteryness.

[Mark Andersson]

Luca, I have seen much worse than your "jitter shake", yours is very watchable.

To keep smooth motion, since you in Aussie land like myself shoot 25P with 50 shutter. I too would agree using a 30mm Sigma 1.4 (this equates to a 50mm on a full frame censor)

The Lightcraft Fader ND has worked great for me and is reasonably priced.
Filter > Fader ND mark II -

I have found the Mercalli V2 to be an amazing video stabilizer:
proDAD Mercalli V2 - 3D image stabilizer, rolling shutter removal, zoom optimisation, pan shot optimisation

Also using native ISO's like 160-320-640 and doubling thereafter will give you the best image.

[Lance Watts]

The micro jitter in your video is caused by small, almost imperceptible shakes in your hands. You can reduce or eliminate micro jitter by using a stabilizer of some sort; like a monopod, tripod, shoulder rig, or any number of available options. Using a view finder like Zacuto's Z-Finder can also eliminate some jitter because your face provides an additional point of contact for the camera.

However, in my opinion, the micro jitter in your video is not too distracting. You actually have a pretty steady hand.

[Luca Bogo]

Thank you all, this was great help :)
Mercalli looks great, I'll get that for sure.

[Greg Fiske]

And anything is better that completely handholding the camera. As a general rule, I try to completely avoid it. Anything that gives you third point of contact will make a difference, gorrila pod or travel pod below are budget options that work just as well as the expensive options on 50 or wider.

Amazon.com: Cullmann Travelpod 3090 - Tripod - table-top: Camera & Photo

 

Amazon.com: Cullmann Travelpod 3090 - Tripod - table-top: Camera & Photo

[Lance Watts]

Mercalli is not the right tool for eliminating micro jitter. Buy a monopod.

[Bernard Lau]

With such a light camera and an even lighter lens, shakiness is inevitable. But it also depends on the effect u want and the style of film u are making

[Daniel Epstein]

You may also be feeling the CMos rolling shutter feeling so the shakyness lasts a little longer than you would like.