C100 and handholding

[Nate Haustein]

I always just smash the back of the C100 against my chest and put my left and under the "toe" to both support and focus. It's also worked really well for me to use a small EVF (for outside use) or monitor on a ball head on the front cold shoe. It becomes a very tall camera, but you have lots of points of contact, it's close to your body, and it feels very natural to me. Couple it with a good IS lens and you're set.

I use this method primarily for docu-style shooting, for more "cinematic" applications, I rig up the C100 on a Zacuto C-Shooter. The package becomes larger and more difficult to handle, but I think the handheld style looks more authentic for some reason... Gut feeling I guess, but for fast-moving docu, I much prefer the smaller package.

[Kathy Smith]

Thanks for all the tips.

[Scott Lancaster]

anyone heard of or used this? It's pricey but wow could be very useful if you need moving shots:

M?VI M5 Stabilizer | Freefly

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1057616-REG/freefly_950_00012_movi_m5_3_axis_gimbal.html

[Gary Huff]

Originally Posted by Scott Lancaster

anyone heard of or used this? It's pricey but wow could be very useful if you need moving shots:

Depends on how often you have a crew with you, can afford to buy/rent a wireless follow focus and a wireless monitor, or if you will one-man-crew it, have enough time to go through the setup, and are willing to let Dual Pixel AF handle everything for you.

[Ken Diewert]

Scott,

This is a more affordable version by DJI that you might want to look at if you like the MOVI but not the price. I've been considering it, but really need to try it out first.

DJI Ronin 3-Axis Brushless Gimbal Stabilizer CP.ZM.000078 B&H

[Gary Huff]

The Ronin is great, but it does weigh almost twice as much as the M5. Depends on how much weight matters when you're lugging it around. Definitely more versatile if you ever upgrade to a camera that needs a sturdier rig though.

[Andrew Maclaurin]

Do you all rely on the focus peaking? I find it a bit unreliable for getting critical focus.
Ken Diewert
do you use push auto focus? does that work? I guess you have to have your lens in auto or am I wrong? I have been struggling with manual focus and it's hard even with the mag function.

[Gary Huff]

Originally Posted by Andrew Maclaurin

Do you all rely on the focus peaking? I find it a bit unreliable for getting critical focus.

I do. Haven't had any issues with missing focus.

[Andrew Maclaurin]

Gary,
what settings do you use?
I find that sometimes a big are is supposedly in focus when in fact it isn't really.

[Ken Diewert]

Originally Posted by Andrew Maclaurin

Gary,
what settings do you use?
I find that sometimes a big are is supposedly in focus when in fact it isn't really.

I use push focus and peaking all the time... so yes the lens has to be set to auto. I trust peaking more than my eyes. And I like shallow dof, so I often use ND to open the iris a little more. I don't use the mag button as much.

The lens that I use most right now is the 17-55 EF-S f2.8 with IS.

[Gary Huff]

Originally Posted by Andrew Maclaurin

I find that sometimes a big are is supposedly in focus when in fact it isn't really.

A big are?

The trick is to know when the peaking is actually "peaking". You get that with practice. Just because there's a little bit of peaking doesn't mean it's in focus. You can get some peaking and then more peaking, just have to know how to read it. And use the magnified focus to double-check. If it's peaking in magnified focus, it's in focus.

Practice is the best way.

[Andrew Maclaurin]

Sorry, big area!
Ken, i don't understand why push auto would require the lens in auto. Surely that means it's redundant as it's already in auto. No push auto with the lens in manual would be useful

[Ken Diewert]

Originally Posted by Andrew Maclaurin

Sorry, big area!
Ken, i don't understand why push auto would require the lens in auto. Surely that means it's redundant as it's already in auto. No push auto with the lens in manual would be useful

Andrew,

The lens has to be switched to auto focus in order for the camera to be able to adjust it. If you push auto with the lens in manual nothing will happen. But set your camera setting 'AF Mode' to 'one shot', and not 'continuous', and it is a manual focus lens that only auto focuses when you push 'one shot AF' (default button 15 on the front). The box will turn from red to green when the camera feels like its in focus. It's pretty reliable... and unless you're cutting razor thin dof, you should be pretty damn close to sharp focus. I trust the camera more than my eyes if I don't have reading glasses on.

I use it so much that I re-programmed button 7 (default Magn), to a secondary push auto button. I find it to be very quick and very reliable...

It also helps to know your aperture when you are using peaking (i use red), and you will have a rough idea of how much dof you have to play with. If you have a pretty small aperture (meaning large f number), you're going to be seeing a lot of red, and you will have a lot more room to still be in focus.

[Andrew Maclaurin]

thanks Ken.

[Kathy Smith]

Originally Posted by Nate Haustein

I always just smash the back of the C100 against my chest and put my left and under the "toe" to both support and focus. It's also worked really well for me to use a small EVF (for outside use) or monitor on a ball head on the front cold shoe. It becomes a very tall camera, but you have lots of points of contact, it's close to your body, and it feels very natural to me. Couple it with a good IS lens and you're set.

I use this method primarily for docu-style shooting, for more "cinematic" applications, I rig up the C100 on a Zacuto C-Shooter. The package becomes larger and more difficult to handle, but I think the handheld style looks more authentic for some reason... Gut feeling I guess, but for fast-moving docu, I much prefer the smaller package.

Nate, how do you smash the back for the camera against your chest and still be able to see the screen?