C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient

Andree Markefors · February 17th, 2013, 01:42 AM

A few notes:

ISO 320 is the same as -6dB. This INCREASES the number of stops below middle gray to 8.1 (compared to 6.7 at ISO 850).

ISO 320 (or -6dB, depending on how you have setup your camera to display sensitivity) provides the cleanest image with most shadow detail that the C100 is capable of.

ISO 850 is the lowest ISO (cleanest, best signal to noise ratio) that provides the most stops of highlight protection: 5.3 stops. All higher ISOs give the same highlight protection, but may potentially introduce more noise.

ALL ISOs, from 320-20000 delivers a total of 12 stops (in Canon Log or Wide DR).

Monday Isa: I'm not sure what you mean when you are describing DOF and shutter speed. There is no correlation between the two, A certain focal length combined with a certain aperture (on a certain sensor) will give you your DOF. Shutter is irrelevant.

Shooting at 30p, most people would select 1/60s as shutter, akin to a 180 degree shutter angle. The shutter can then be fixed there for 30p. No need to change for different DOF needs.

Monday Isa · February 17th, 2013, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andree Markefors

.....Monday Isa: I'm not sure what you mean when you are describing DOF and shutter speed. There is no correlation between the two, A certain focal length combined with a certain aperture (on a certain sensor) will give you your DOF. Shutter is irrelevant.

Shooting at 30p, most people would select 1/60s as shutter, akin to a 180 degree shutter angle. The shutter can then be fixed there for 30p. No need to change for different DOF needs.

I think you misunderstood my post which is ok. It probably wasn't stated properly. Shooting with the C100 I have found that ISO 320 clips the highlights badly compared to ISO 400 and 850. If I'm outside and want to use a fast aperture like 2.0 on a bright sunny day for shallow dof, I will have to use nd-6 and the only other value I can increase is the shutter. Since I shoot 30P I don't mind the higher shutter values. If I want shallow DOF without using additional nd filters and shooting 12stops, I'm stuck with the shutter value being the one that changes.

Andree Markefors · February 17th, 2013, 07:03 AM

No, I get that you will run out of options if you're already at 6ND and opening up makes your image too bright.

I also understand that you might want to shoot at ISO 850 for maximum highlight protection.

In the following:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monday Isa

Since I shoot 30P I don't mind the higher shutter values.

I'm tripping over the word "since".

Why wouldn't you mind higher shutter speeds because you choose 30p? There are no 'right' or 'wrong' here. You can always make a creative decision, but why do you feel once at 30p, you can increase the shutter speed?

Monday Isa · February 17th, 2013, 07:50 AM

I understand now. I shoot at 30P and shooting at a higher shutter doesn't bother me all that much ;)

Andree Markefors · February 17th, 2013, 08:07 AM

Great, then we're on the same page!

=)

Gary Huff · February 17th, 2013, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Davis

If you're faced with dirty (or missing) NDs and you have to kick the shutter speed up, I've not really seen the difference between 1/250 and 1/10,000 because the subject matter is missing the motion blur, period. So fill your boots. Just like Jazz: hit a bum note? Do it again - LOUDER. Make it a feature. Chalk it all up to artistic direction.

I saw a film on a big screen that was shot with a lot of outdoor high shutter speed action and it gave me a splitting headache.

Matt Davis · February 18th, 2013, 08:33 AM

A bit like the Dog Beach scene of Saving Private Ryan?

Sabyasachi Patra · February 18th, 2013, 11:39 AM

Can't think of any other suggestions except for placing some black cloth on your reflectors and placing it close to the face.

Circular polarisers often give a nice look. However, that may interfere with your looks. It can make the sky deep blue depending on the angle of light, subject and camera.

I prefer a higher shutter speed when I am in a boat.

Gary Huff · February 18th, 2013, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Davis

A bit like the Dog Beach scene of Saving Private Ryan?

If it lasted 90 solid minutes and had far more camera movement? Yes.

Al Yeung · February 18th, 2013, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Mercer

That's what I thought. Just wondering if anyone had any other ideas - hate to go back to screw-on ND filters ...

Try Welcome to Xume!.

Dave Mercer · February 19th, 2013, 01:30 PM

Yesterday I tried doubling and even tripling the shutter speed (from 1/50 to 1/100 to 1/160) and I think that'll work fine. No filters to worry about, no color shift, etc.

Thanks all!

Noel Evans · February 19th, 2013, 07:43 PM

TO achieve the same DOF you could (following are approximates). Move away twice the distance from subject, double the focal length and then drop aperture to around f5.6, then you wont have to touch shutter.

February 17th, 2013, 01:42 AM	#16
Andree Markefors Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Zürich Switzerland Posts: 81	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient A few notes: ISO 320 is the same as -6dB. This INCREASES the number of stops below middle gray to 8.1 (compared to 6.7 at ISO 850). ISO 320 (or -6dB, depending on how you have setup your camera to display sensitivity) provides the cleanest image with most shadow detail that the C100 is capable of. ISO 850 is the lowest ISO (cleanest, best signal to noise ratio) that provides the most stops of highlight protection: 5.3 stops. All higher ISOs give the same highlight protection, but may potentially introduce more noise. ALL ISOs, from 320-20000 delivers a total of 12 stops (in Canon Log or Wide DR). Monday Isa: I'm not sure what you mean when you are describing DOF and shutter speed. There is no correlation between the two, A certain focal length combined with a certain aperture (on a certain sensor) will give you your DOF. Shutter is irrelevant. Shooting at 30p, most people would select 1/60s as shutter, akin to a 180 degree shutter angle. The shutter can then be fixed there for 30p. No need to change for different DOF needs.

February 17th, 2013, 07:50 AM	#19
Monday Isa Major Player Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: College Park, Maryland Posts: 913	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient I understand now. I shoot at 30P and shooting at a higher shutter doesn't bother me all that much ;)

February 17th, 2013, 08:07 AM	#20
Andree Markefors Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Zürich Switzerland Posts: 81	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient Great, then we're on the same page! =)

February 18th, 2013, 08:33 AM	#22
Matt Davis Trustee Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Berkshire, UK Posts: 1,562	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient A bit like the Dog Beach scene of Saving Private Ryan? __________________ Director/Editor - MDMA Ltd: Write, Shoot, Edit, Publish - mattdavis.pro EX1 x2, C100 --> FCPX & PPro6

February 18th, 2013, 11:39 AM	#23
Sabyasachi Patra Major Player Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: New Delhi, India Posts: 507	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient Can't think of any other suggestions except for placing some black cloth on your reflectors and placing it close to the face. Circular polarisers often give a nice look. However, that may interfere with your looks. It can make the sky deep blue depending on the angle of light, subject and camera. I prefer a higher shutter speed when I am in a boat. __________________ Wild Tiger Productions http://www.indiawilds.com/about.htm

February 19th, 2013, 01:30 PM	#26
Dave Mercer Major Player Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Lake Atitlan, Guatemala Posts: 346	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient Yesterday I tried doubling and even tripling the shutter speed (from 1/50 to 1/100 to 1/160) and I think that'll work fine. No filters to worry about, no color shift, etc. Thanks all!

February 19th, 2013, 07:43 PM	#27
Noel Evans Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Tokyo, Japan Posts: 157	Re: C100 in Bright Sun - NDs insufficient TO achieve the same DOF you could (following are approximates). Move away twice the distance from subject, double the focal length and then drop aperture to around f5.6, then you wont have to touch shutter.