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May 3rd, 2007, 01:31 PM
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#1 |
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New Boot
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Loma Linda, CA
Posts: 10
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Snod35 DIY adapter info
Hey all,
Just wanted to post a link to some info as to how I built the Snod35 35mm adapter: http://snodart.com/hbe_snod35_v1.php The short films Cache, After Class, and The Seeing were all shot with the Snod35: http://snodart.com/shorts.php Also, I made this depth of field tutorial for a DIY adapter DVD/kit that didn't end up working out. You can view the tutorial here: http://snodart.com/tutorials.php If you want to watch the full version of the tutorial, please download it by saving it to you computer (to save my bandwidth). Otherwise the tutorial can be viewed in sections. Thanks. -Justin |
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May 3rd, 2007, 08:53 PM
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#2 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 27
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Justin,
I just ordered a few parts from your diy list. I like your solution for adjustable focal plane for the focusing screen. Right now i have an EOS mount extension tube set, but would like to convert to Nikon F, and having it glued instead would be a pain to change. Good thinking! After reading your experiments with motors, i decided to do a little more search before buying one. Do you have any experience with this model http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H3425.html ? It's mentioned on Daniel's DIY, another great starting point for novice tinkerers. http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/basic_35mm_dof.pdf Anyway, just wanted to say thanks. |
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May 3rd, 2007, 08:56 PM
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#3 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Posts: 171
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Very good tutorial. Nice work. I have also done almost the same thing with my 35 adapter.
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May 3rd, 2007, 09:45 PM
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#4 |
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New Boot
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Loma Linda, CA
Posts: 10
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Hi Yev, that motor is a solarbotics 12mm motor. I have tested it several times and with the design of the Snod35 it just didn't stand up to the Sanko motor. As you mentioned, Daniel uses the motor with several of his designs. From what he has told me, he is getting a good circular vibration pattern with the motor. The Sanko motor is just such a great motor that the 10 or so other motors that I tried just didn't compare.
I am currently working on a design that uses thin metal wire instead of the nylon threaded rod. I feel like I have tried just about everything to get the smaller motors to perform well, but I suppose there is still hope. It kills me that the Sanko motor is no longer around. Thanks for the post Igor. DIY 35mm adapters can be addicting. |
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May 3rd, 2007, 11:24 PM
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#5 |
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Trustee
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sauk Rapids, MN, USA
Posts: 1,675
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I've got a macro adaptor set (+1, 2, 4 and 10) and still can't seem to get the camera closer than 1.5' from the focusing screen (canon XL1s - stock lens or with a 50mm lens dirrectly attached to the body of the camera with a 2x conversion on it...so what every that ends up being after the multiplication from the chip size and the 2x adaptor). What is the likely culprit here? How do I make this bad boy macrotastic?
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May 4th, 2007, 04:13 AM
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#7 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Atlantis
Posts: 58
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Hi guys,
if you cant get that Sanko motor anymore I designed another gg-vibrator some time ago. It uses thin carbon pins and a normal pager motor. You dont need a pancake motor anymore. You can also build yourself this device and if you cant get thin carbon pins you may use thin steel pins. I improved it on my last vacation and now the new VH-57ND design looks a little bit different than this photo. best regards Daniel |
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May 4th, 2007, 09:48 AM
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#8 |
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New Boot
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Loma Linda, CA
Posts: 10
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Cole, thanks for the comment about my site. I wish I could help, but I don't have any experience with the XL1s. All of my adapter work has been on the DVX.
Daniel, I've tried a few types of metal wire and am still not getting great results. I think I will buy your design pictured above (VH-57ND?) to take a look at it. |
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May 4th, 2007, 02:50 PM
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#10 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 27
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Cole,
see if this article helps any: http://www.cinevate.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13 It talks about minimum focusing distances and has a 37mm by 25mm CAD printout of a typical focusing screen. On my GL2 it seems i can put it right against the lens and it can focus on it. |
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May 9th, 2007, 09:04 PM
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#11 |
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Major Player
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New York City
Posts: 613
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Have you tried your snod35 with an HD camera? i'm working on building a similar adapter for my hv20. we'll see how it goes
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May 10th, 2007, 10:11 AM
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#12 |
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Major Player
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New York City
Posts: 613
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any recommendations where to get those 72mm spacer rings? they seem to be tough to find nowadays.
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May 10th, 2007, 02:40 PM
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#15 |
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Major Player
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New York City
Posts: 613
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no 72mm spacers, but other sizes on ebay. Think there will be enough space in a 62mm tube if i conserve space a bit more around the 36x24mm vibrating ground glass? what is a normal amount of vibration? does it need a lot of extra space? what is the diameter of the FD mount? what size filter would i need to just be able to glue the filter to the front of a filter?
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