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Old April 4th, 2007, 09:34 AM   #1
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ATTN HOMEBUILDERS: Newbie Q

Hello there

Anybody building/has built their own spinning CD style 35mm adaptor?

I'm looking for a supplier for a metal enclosure, preferably aluminum(?) or lighter for my build. That would be around 5"x7"x2", judging from the others out there.

FYI I think I'm going to end up with a 15mm rod based system and a Nikon F mount and/or an OCT mount for my 35mm Lomos. Will need a matte box and FF system to go with.

So overall weight isn't as important as the self-supported (hanging off the lens) systems, but then again I will be handholding the rig and don't want to add unnecessary weight...

Any luck with any particular source/supplier?

Thanks!
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Old April 4th, 2007, 09:56 AM   #2
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I'm using a simple project box from Radio Shack, the cost about $5.00. It has a metal panel that on the front, but is all plastic. There were two sizes available, and I opted for small size. It has just enough room to fit the the disk I ordered from the Redrock people.

See this thread for a view of the setup and the box.

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=80383
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Last edited by Chris Barcellos; April 4th, 2007 at 09:56 AM. Reason: add thread link
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Old April 5th, 2007, 11:46 PM   #3
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Thanks, Chris
I was looking for something a little more substantial?
Anybody?
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Old April 6th, 2007, 12:24 AM   #4
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The Micro35 plans from Redrock indicate you can get a black powder coated enclosure from Mouser Electronics 958 North Main Street, Mansfield Texas

800-346-6873. They list the part as Enclosure 546-1590c-BK 4.72 x 3.70 x 2.07 deep Hamond $15.00. If you don't have the Redrock plans, you should order them, and you get a disk with it for about $50.00 they have a whole parts list to get to a pretty substantial unit.
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Old April 6th, 2007, 12:42 AM   #5
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Second the Redrock homebuild design. Jim Lafferty also published one I recall was similar.

Aluminium?

A metal enclosure is going to be more acoustically live and may propogate diskmotor noise and camcorder mechanical noises forward to the SLR lens body, thence in the direction of your production mike and your audio recording, a known path with film cameras.

Last edited by Bob Hart; April 6th, 2007 at 12:44 AM. Reason: errors
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Old April 6th, 2007, 01:40 AM   #6
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Thanks - ordered the mouser one and will see what happens.

Chris
I seem to remember sending in my Paypal years ago before Redrock was redrock and the price for the plans and disc was still $40 or $45 (yes, that long ago) and receiving a "please wait" email, and nothing else. Well, I'm still waiting...

Bob
Guess the Mouser box is steel? Guess I'll find out when it gets here.

Will use a brushless micromotor to spin the CD, and will also isolate that part of the mechanism (i.e. use shock mounts to float the disc and motor). Should reduce both the conducted and convected vibration component. And I plan to insulate the interior anyway. Any suggestions or comments?

Also I'm planning on a 15/60mm rod system to anchor the entire thing anyway, since I'm probably going to go OCT-19 and my 35mm high speed Lomos (with Kinor matte box, FF, etc - it's unlikely that I'll be using both 35mm and HDV at the same time, but if so then I have a 35mm Konvas too). I just figured that I'd better have something solid to bolt all that Lomo glass onto...

However, those new Zeiss primes for Nikon F mount sure look sweet!
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Old April 6th, 2007, 03:50 AM   #7
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With LOMOs I can see why you want that metal box and a sensible decision too. The mass of these heavier lenses may dampen noise a little may be less conductive than plastic bodied SLR lenses.

Thin blue upholstry foam might be okay for acoustic insulation. Some foams break down from chemicals in solvent glues and shed loose dusty bits.

There are some yellow cleaning cloths which look like a thin felt material and others, more like synthetic chamois which have a pattern of 1mm holes in them. These might make good acoustic insulation.

If you use rubber mounts, make sure you fit the motor onto a wide plate, with the rubber mounts close to the sides of the case. If your motor has options for mounting it on its front face, use them.

This all helps to control out-of-balance conditions.

The Redrock disk should be okay but if you are making a custom hub for the micromotor, a runout problem may occur.

I used polypropolene for the mount plate because it is less acoustically live than other plastics or metal.

Last edited by Bob Hart; April 6th, 2007 at 04:03 AM. Reason: correction
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