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October 27th, 2005, 06:47 PM | #1 |
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Anybody knows how fast the mini35 lens is?
I know it has no aperture numbers, only 1-7 steps. But anybody knows how fast it actually is?
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October 27th, 2005, 07:59 PM | #2 |
Obstreperous Rex
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The Mini35 doesn't include a lens... it's just a converter... so it all depends on which lens you choose to put in front of it. You decide how fast of a lens you need, and put it on the Mini35. Unless I'm misunderstanding your question?
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October 27th, 2005, 11:20 PM | #3 |
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I think you misunderstood it Chris. I was talking about the included relay lens. Thanks.
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October 28th, 2005, 01:10 AM | #4 |
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He likes to know how fast the relay lens for the XL-1/2 really is.
dietmar |
October 28th, 2005, 03:38 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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October 28th, 2005, 08:55 AM | #6 |
Obstreperous Rex
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Ah. Well we might need Guy Genin for that then. Sorry for the confusion,
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October 28th, 2005, 02:38 PM | #7 |
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A quick test of one XL relay shows about 2.8
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Guy Genin ZGC Technical support |
October 28th, 2005, 04:23 PM | #8 |
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Thanks.
f2.8, that's all? Sometime ago there were rumours it was a f0.95 lens. I at least thought it was a fast lens. 2.8 isn't really fast, more like standard, or even slow in video terms. I didn't think 2.8 was fast enough, specially with the 300 series, where you need to keep it as open as possible to avoid seeing the GG. Is the HD100's the same relay just with a different mount, meaning also 2.8? I'm seriously considering buying a Mini35, but I'm not sure if I want to go for a new one or a used 300 series yet. |
October 29th, 2005, 10:47 AM | #9 |
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The relay lens comes after the ground glass; stopping down the relay is not the same as stopping down the taking lens. You can stop down the relay as much as you want without seeing the ground glass.
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October 29th, 2005, 11:11 AM | #10 |
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But since the Mini35 loses so much light, wouldn't it need a fast relay lens to compensate for the lost light? I always heard the relay was a very fast lens, but 2.8 don’t seem to be the case.
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October 29th, 2005, 06:12 PM | #11 |
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F2.8 is more likely to do with the limitations of macro photography than low light issues.
for example; at F1.6 you would see a circular central zone of sharp focus compared to the edges of the gate, which would be very soft (no good for 1/3 rule of composition), so F2.8 is a compromise; best overall sharpness would be F4 and smaller aperture
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