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September 8th, 2005, 11:26 PM | #31 | |
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September 9th, 2005, 12:03 AM | #32 |
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Oh, I'm not saying there aren't, I'm just saying that in general, vibrating adapters will reduce grain at greater apertures more than static adapters will.
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September 9th, 2005, 02:10 AM | #33 | |
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Just a thought . .Grazie |
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September 9th, 2005, 03:50 AM | #34 |
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Graham,
I beleive this to work, but I think its best to keep the SLR aperture open, and adjusting the exposure of the image with the camcorders aperture. Wayne. |
September 9th, 2005, 02:12 PM | #35 |
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I agree, it's best to do your "darkening" [i]after/i] the screen, i.e. with camcorder's internal ND filter or iris.
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September 9th, 2005, 04:29 PM | #36 |
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Actually I was referring to if someone wanted to deepen the DOF using aperture control. But, of course, we're all in this for shallow DOF, so why not...
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September 9th, 2005, 05:06 PM | #37 |
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Yup.
One reason to use these devices that is totally aside from depth of field is simply lens options. The DVX for example is quoted at being 4.5-45mm focal length, supposedly translating to 32.5-325mm in SLR equivalent. I don't have a 32.5mm SLR lens to try on my adapter but I do have a 28mm and it offers about the same angle of view as the DVX with no adapter. When I've used SLR lenses shorter than 28mm with my shallow-DOF adapter, it has given me the ability to capture wider angles of view than my camera could with its original lens. You could always use an add-on wide angle adapter lens like the Raynox, Century Optics, etc., though I never have, so I don't know how the optics of a single element add-on lens compare to a nice wide angle SLR lens. I would assume the SLR is far better since the camera manufacturers have to use several elements to get a nice image. Still, from what I have seen, the add-ons seem to work. |
October 6th, 2005, 11:21 PM | #38 |
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Would it be possible to sandwhich the Nikon D focusing screen between two 52mm UV filters for protection from dust and easier installation? I was planning on just using some regular 2" tubing, not threaded like the ones listed. Also, what macro steppings would work? I currently have a +1, +2, and +4, would a stack or one of these work? Or will I have to get a much higher macro like +7-10? Basically, what's the minimum macro that works with this?
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October 6th, 2005, 11:49 PM | #39 | |
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Yes, the ground glass can be sandwiched between UV filters.
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October 7th, 2005, 08:02 AM | #40 |
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If you need a +7 +10 macro, I have one for sale, let me know. Less glass is always better when you stack +1 +2 +4 you have three pieces where with +7 you have one, but that is something that you have to decide.
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October 7th, 2005, 08:34 AM | #41 |
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Oh good, sandwhiching the Nikon D screen should save me a TON of trouble, I was going to go with the wax route and that looked pretty iffy to me. I've got a GL1 and all the guides seem to be using different macros, some use just a +3, others use +7, and then most common is a +10 macro, I figure you'd need to zoom in anyway so why haul out for a big macro like that? BTW, I'm building my adapter with stepping rings so I can use it on my GL1 now and use it with a future 72mm camera when I upgrade to HD.
One thing about the sandwhiching thing, the Nikon D screen won't be jingling around between the two filters will it? I don't know how small the screen is.
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October 7th, 2005, 12:29 PM | #42 |
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Just a note: the more you zoom in, the higher power the macro you need.
You'll have to glue in the screen. It's a rectangular-sized thing that, if placed in the ring of a 52mm UV filter, will barely touch at the corners.
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October 20th, 2005, 05:32 AM | #43 |
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hi!
can any of you guys please tell me how do you manage to keep the focusing screen clean? I keep cleaning it but i still get little dirt sitting on it!! thanks in advance |
October 20th, 2005, 05:46 PM | #44 |
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Use compressed air to completely blast out all the tiny particles, then seal the deal and only open the ends sparingly.
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October 21st, 2005, 03:13 AM | #45 |
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thank you Ben.
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