May 27th, 2005, 06:39 PM | #406 |
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import went well, the CPU temp went from 14 deg over ambient (30-45) to 30 over (30-60) (might have to get back to water cooling with this HD if it becomes a hobby) Flip test went well but I did not test the quality (artifacts ond so on)on a bigger screen. Slept one hour last night/6-7 and feeling dizzzzzzzzzzzy. Picthshaaaaa's good, well known lead actors: Felix and friends.... 2nite or tomorrow the clips.
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May 28th, 2005, 06:04 PM | #407 |
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Rendering/compressing the footage goes painfully slow. (CPU temp 63 deg) I have to break down the clips so they feet the 30MB limit on "rapidshare". Whether is my computer ( CPU or the video card) the mpg compressing or "you name it", the compressed footage plays choppy (here) as if it was 15fps or so (and so did audio so I took it out). No water cooling....
To render 14 seconds takes 5 minutes (to compress it in mpg) I might as well save some frames and move on... I can hear the variable fan speed trying to keep up with the load demands... Z1+MPIC.Frame size 1920/1080 @ 0db (8?-9.6?iris on Z1 ND1? or ND2? was on), 30P,shoot with 85mm Nikkor @ 1.8 (aperture) under high contrast light. Felix. Color fringe on hi contrast left light areas (non lens related imo having seen soft footage areas with less contrast as well) Proooooven shmooooven.... she's-a-round! 14.8Mb 6 seconds: http://rapidshare.de/files/2038885/Felix_and_M.m2v.html |
May 28th, 2005, 06:18 PM | #408 |
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Dan,
Does your device have a way of change the focal length? You seem to use alot of different lenses, which is what most film-makers want - but you are using the same device right? |
May 28th, 2005, 07:42 PM | #409 |
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Yes, same device different lens (primes not zooms) same zoom/focus position on Z1 (to get the GG in focus and filling the screen of the camera)
Here are some stills from footage: http://dandiaconu.com/gallery/album16 What a pain......... Prooooven shmoooven….. signing off …. Last edited by Dan Diaconu; May 29th, 2005 at 08:13 AM. |
May 28th, 2005, 10:20 PM | #410 |
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I have just added one more album:
http://dandiaconu.com/gallery/album17 Stills from the Z1+MPIC tests. (and the 50" monitor I used to analize the footage) |
May 29th, 2005, 06:40 PM | #411 | |
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Quote:
Gotta say thats really good, cant see any evidence of 'devils grid' unlike DV footage - I guess the M2t handles this way way better. So then, - have you thought about 1) making plans available for sale of the oscillation mechanism? Single Licence etc 2) approximate cost of construction of the oscillation mechanism? 3) could it be made to fit inside a tube internal diametre 58mm?
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May 29th, 2005, 07:18 PM | #412 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
That's a tough one, but.... that is how I started (58mm dia) Let's talk tomorrow if you want: 604-780-1818 |
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May 30th, 2005, 12:23 PM | #413 |
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Thanks for the replies Dan
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May 30th, 2005, 04:02 PM | #414 |
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Thanks for asking John, although I did not understand very well the perspective you were asking from; was it as an individual user or manufacturer's POV?
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May 31st, 2005, 12:07 PM | #415 |
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Dan,
No mega-corporate conglomerate I'm afraid - just me :) My preferred choice of material would be machinable Nylon Here's one for you - I find the Canon 250D twin lens achromat very soft at the edges at 250mm full zoom infinity focus (target is an illuminated focus 35mm slide), maybe its just the FX1/250D combination - are you satisfied with the performance of your Century achromat ?
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May 31st, 2005, 01:58 PM | #416 |
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I have not tested Canon's achromatic, so I can not comment but I did BUY the best (I know of) Century's. My "old fashion values" and also the fact that I am too poor to waste money on testing everyone's.... and buy cheap(er) merchandise.... "you-get-what-you-pay-for" kind'a thing. But until one does not learn what short cuts work and which don't (paying!) one does not know and keeps trying. The lesson is repeated till learned.
Subsequently, the image is sharp and color distortion free.(one would wonder how come they are still in business if the same could be purchased for less...) Although may not be the best sample, here it is one: (two) http://dandiaconu.com/gallery/ALL-CLIP-TESTS/IMGA0525 http://dandiaconu.com/gallery/ALL-CLIP-TESTS/IMGA0523 Panasonic GS200+MPIC+Nikkor (35mm? or 50mm?)+ (+7) Century achromatic. The achromatic was used to get a ECU (in this case) and not to obtain a sharp image of the screen on the camcorder. In other words, the +7 was in front of the SLR lens, followed by MPIC and GS200. But it works just as well for the purpose you want to use it. As for the plans, I am worried it would not be a "Sunday afternoon" job for most and that is why I sort'a was reluctant to take anyone's money and make them available. Is just a bit too much for the average hobbyist (from what I have seen so far) and the time+expense would by far exceed the "savings" (if any) In all honesty I think professionals will do as they always did (buy the available tools and do their jobs) and the hobbyists will have a ton of fun their own way as well (and I am setting the best example here, hey? hehehe (;-)< Last edited by Dan Diaconu; May 31st, 2005 at 02:28 PM. |
May 31st, 2005, 02:52 PM | #417 |
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Thanks for that
Of interest is that Canon say of their achromats <They do not degrade the high optical performance of EF lenses> which may be true in which case the FX1 lens may be the source of the edge softening with achromat fitted which of course is not good news
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May 31st, 2005, 05:01 PM | #418 |
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"Achromat" means "no color distortion" not "no image distortion" (unless otherwise specified)
I could not find in Goggle anything but 52 and 58mm from Canon. FX1/Z1 are 72mm. Anyway, idea is that central part of the lens is the nearest to "perfect". Using it all (as we do at wide open aperture) summarizes all distortion available (not much, but they all add up) You may want to check your achromat with a smaller camcorder (37?mm dia lens) and see if is OK, and if it is, get a larger dia CU achromat for FX1 (may I suggest from a trusted brand?) From: http://www.centuryoptics.com/product...s/diopters.htm we get a solid promise: >>>>>Edge-to-Edge Sharpness Common single element diopters permit focusing at close camera-to-subject distances at the expense of image clarity. Instead, Achromatic Diopters feature two highly corrected glass elements which minimize chromatic aberration and distortion.<<<<<< do it right or don't bother! (anything else is waste). (we all need reminders sometimes...(;-)< |
June 1st, 2005, 02:41 PM | #419 |
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I have discovered the source of my problem.
Evidently, Macro photography works best at F5.6 and smaller apertures, my tests were at F2.8 (FX1 zoomed in, maximum aperture) which fully explains the soft edges with the 250D - best at F5.6 and smaller.
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June 1st, 2005, 03:38 PM | #420 |
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Good you sorted it out. I would still be curious if you could get same sharp image on Z1@ 2.8 and a larger CU lens (for the sake of knowing...) It would make a diff in lights needed, but... What is the power? +3,4,7?
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