May 22nd, 2004, 07:57 AM | #841 |
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In the past, I discovered some easy way to evenly coat without bubbles (not to do with GG acid), but I don't remember how. If you get something the same consistancy/texture/stickiness as the acid compound, and try different methods on a test glass, I am sure you'll also eventually find it.
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May 22nd, 2004, 11:49 AM | #842 |
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I havent worked with acid yet but as long as it doesnt act like oil when you add water to it I would think the thing to do would be to water down the acid to a much less powerful, perfectly even mix BEFORE applying it to the glass. I should take a lot longer for the acid to etch away at the glass but this is a good thing as you can move the solution around while it slowly works on the glass and it should NOT be strong enough to cause any particular unwanted patterns on the glass. Instead I would think in the end it would be very even etch. Has anyone tried this? Like I said if water can be mixed in with the acid without them seperating (like oil and water does) then it should work.
-Brett Erskine |
May 22nd, 2004, 01:52 PM | #843 |
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Good thought
The acid does dilite with water. Diluting it first would have made the stuff 1000 times more easier to work with... thanks Brett for the tip. I'm gonna try that.
John |
May 22nd, 2004, 07:10 PM | #844 |
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acid
I also tried the etching a week or so back and was completely unsuccessful. Patterns everywhere. In fact the grain was more prominent than on my WAO5 GG.
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May 23rd, 2004, 09:32 PM | #845 |
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Has anyone tried a partial polish-back of acid etched surfaces?
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May 23rd, 2004, 10:59 PM | #846 |
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Somewhat OFF TOPIC: Who emailed me for grit?
I received an email recently regarding buying some of my extra 6 micron grit, but I hit "delete" instead of "reply" by mistake - the person said they found me email from this thread , so please resend the message.
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May 23rd, 2004, 11:45 PM | #847 |
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Bob, I did and it worked fairly well. Somewhere along the line I got a acratch on my smooth side of the glass, so it is no longer any good. What I did end up with was really too frosted. Realize though I had ground the glass twice, then acid etched, then polished. Therefore, my results may not be a good benchmark.
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May 24th, 2004, 05:25 AM | #848 |
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John.
It's early days yet but I am getting better results in manual tests polishing the Ohara disks by using a heavy bronze donut shaped piece of metal I intend to use in the tumbler when I get it built. The reason why I tried this was that whilst I was manually rolling the donut inside a rotating CD-R case with polish slurry to see what was the best angle for a smooth movement of the donut. After cleaning the Ohara disk, I found polished tracks which had occurred in just a very short time and with no pressure except the weight of the donut. I think the hole in the centre has something to do with it. For your smaller filter disks, it may be possible to restore the front face if you dress with your 5 and 3 micron then polish with the cerium oxide if you are using this with a small bronze donut about the size of an alternator bearing. The larger donut of about 60mm with 20mm centre hole is about 10mm thick. I faced it on a lathe and cut circular grooves in it at about 2mm spacing. You can get good polishing friction with it but no sticking or rough binding. How it goes for scratches I have yet to find out as like your own efforts, the experimental disk has been abused through previous unsuccessful efforts. To avoid bending and cracking my disks I placed them on the sheet of glass I have been dressing them on. |
May 25th, 2004, 12:19 PM | #849 |
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James Webb
Bravo.
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May 25th, 2004, 10:45 PM | #850 |
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Alain
merci beaucoup.
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May 26th, 2004, 07:04 AM | #851 |
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WOW gang I just finished my spinning35 and all I can say is AMAZING!! this thing turns the word VIDEO upside down and inside out! it's just AMAZING how film like the images look now! I feel like I would NEVER want to shoot standard VIDEO EVER again! rockon!
now I have to build a rail system to mount the puppy on the bottom of the dvx100! btw for anyone that is having problems with using macro +10 lenses to get the thing to work on the dvx100 I have found a way without them by using a bigger PCX glass and having it VERY close to the dvx lens |
May 26th, 2004, 08:34 AM | #852 |
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Obin -
I'd love to hear about the PCX - Damion |
May 26th, 2004, 10:39 AM | #853 |
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www.dv3productions.com/test_images/dvx100_spinning35.jpg
I jsut LOVE the grain it gives images! |
May 26th, 2004, 02:38 PM | #854 |
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Obin
Nice job!
Can you tell us the exact brand/model PCX and where you purchased it? Thanks. |
May 26th, 2004, 03:35 PM | #855 |
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that website on the threads here that has stuff for cheap lots of optics I bought 2 PCX lenses I think a 50mm and an 80mm or something like that...that image above is out of focus I will try and post more
www.dv3productions.com/test_images/color_work_35.jpg this is like god has come down and given me the creative ability I have been searching for as a digital DOP..I LOVE digital and hate it at the same time....this spinning35 really changes that for me as a shooter/editor |
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