35mm Adapter Static Aldu35

Brett Erskine · March 4th, 2004, 05:03 PM

Aluminum tubing that has a big enough I.D. with a fine metric thread has been hard to find. Im sure they exist but as of yet I havent found ones that are ready made. What you can do is have someone take aluminum tubing stock and cut threads into them. Make sure you have enough threads to expand the difference between the flange focal length of still photo lens and motion picture lenses as it is greater than what a stepup ring can provide. Even better would be sometype of lens housing minus its optics or a adjustable length extention tube. Both would have to have large I.D.'s especially on the camera side of the GG.

Also your extra UV filter (the one you use to block the dirt from getting on your ground glass) should have a antireflection coating on it because it faces right at the ground glass.

-Brett Erskine

Roman Shafro · March 4th, 2004, 06:23 PM

Does anyone know of a link where I can find out the actual inner (female part) and outer (male part) diameters of various step-up rings? The local stores are not too thrilled to open sealed step-up ring packages to let me measure them :).

Also, I've read a few recommendations where it's advised to place the condensor lens in front of the GG ( i.e., SLR Lens -> condensor -> GG ) and NOT behind it, to minimize reflections. Has anyone tried to compare these two cases in practice?

Frank Ladner · March 4th, 2004, 06:56 PM

I've been trying to keep this project cheap, but I realize that I do need a closeup filter. Obviously, I need a two element solution to cut down on the chromatic aberration problem, so I think I've about decided on this:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=77546&is=REG

Anyone else know of something cheaper? What about the Hoya filters...anyone using a 58mm achromatic diopter other than the Century Optics brand?

Thanks!

Brett Erskine · March 5th, 2004, 12:26 AM

The +10 Hoya's are generally a better deal at about $70 but ideally you usually want to get a diopter no stronger than you need in order to avoid moving your GG back farther away from your camera to make up the difference. Getting the right kind for your camera will make sure your adapter is as physically small as possible in the end.

-Brett Erskine

Brett Erskine · March 5th, 2004, 02:07 AM

Jonathon Wilson where are thoughs condenser FL numbers?

Jonathon Wilson · March 5th, 2004, 02:08 AM

Dude - I"m still at work. I think I've been at my house for a total of like 6 hours total in the last three days. You'll get 'em once I actually see 'em :)

Frank Ladner · March 5th, 2004, 08:33 AM

Brett: I found an old post where you had a link to some of the Hoyas, but the ones in that price range weren't two-element, where they? I probably looked at it wrong.

Also, what strength would you recommend for a Canon GL2?

Thanks!

Brett Erskine · March 5th, 2004, 01:22 PM

Send me the link or check out the part number with Hoya. Since I have a DVX100 and not a GL2 I dont know. Im pretty sure the info as already been posted. Otherwise your going to have to go to your local camera shop and test diopters out yourself.

Frank Ladner · March 5th, 2004, 02:17 PM

The problem is that I'm in south Mississippi. Not a high concentration of camera/video equipment suppliers here. I'd sure like being able to walk into a place with my camera and try stuff out, though.

Here is the link in question:
http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoyacloseup07.html

My only option - the two-element adapter in 58mm size - only go up to +5, and are $111.63.

Roman Shafro · March 5th, 2004, 03:43 PM

Frank, here's a good link for achromats:

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/closeups.html

It also tells you how to calculate the focusing distance when adding a diopter, so you can figure out the lowest value that's useable with your camera. Like Brett says, go for the lowest value necessary to avoid spherical aberrations.

Frank Ladner · March 5th, 2004, 04:14 PM

I appreciate that link, Roman! Looks like a lot of helpful info at the bottom of that page.

Thanks!

Brett Erskine · March 5th, 2004, 04:38 PM

Frank I checked out your link. Thats the same price as I've seen for the Hoya +10 achromat macros but just call up the Filter Connection and ask to make sure.

John Heskett · March 5th, 2004, 04:50 PM

Please bear with my ignorance about optics.
There is all this talk about FL, help clear a few things up for me.

SLR lens -> GG -> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV

OK I know that FL is important here
SLR lens -FL> GG
so the image on the GG is in focus.

and I understand the basics about different color waves acting a little short or long in relation to each other.

But is FL important anywhere else in this setup

Maybe here
SLR lens -FL> GG -FL> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV

or here
SLR lens -FL> GG -> Condenser -FL> -> Macro -> DV

Is the condenser flat side right up against the GG?

Will the Hoya +7 or +10 work as the condenser?

Thanks

John

Roman Shafro · March 5th, 2004, 05:40 PM

<< But is FL important anywhere else in this setup >>
IMHO, no. As long as you can focus onto the GG image (with macro or without, depending on your camera), you're OK.

<< Is the condenser flat side right up against the GG? >>
IMHO, yes, but Alain had his condensor with convex side up against the GG.

<< Will the Hoya +7 or +10 work as the condenser? >>
Sounds like a great idea to me. The +10 diopter's focal length is 1000/10 = 100mm, which sounds about right, although I don't believe that condensor's FL is that important, since you put it right against the GG.

Paolo Rudelli · March 5th, 2004, 06:38 PM

Some one have a idear which is the best fresnel lents to use .
I find few on edmund optics website
whit Effective Size diamater of 2" but different type:

IR fresnel
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2042

Aspherically Contoured Fresnel Lenses
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2039

PCX visible fresnel
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2040

some one test both solution to avoid hot spot : frenel & condenser

some info best solution

last question..

some one test whit boss screen ???

Ciao

March 4th, 2004, 05:03 PM	#451
Brett Erskine Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 445	Aluminum Tubing and UV filters Aluminum tubing that has a big enough I.D. with a fine metric thread has been hard to find. Im sure they exist but as of yet I havent found ones that are ready made. What you can do is have someone take aluminum tubing stock and cut threads into them. Make sure you have enough threads to expand the difference between the flange focal length of still photo lens and motion picture lenses as it is greater than what a stepup ring can provide. Even better would be sometype of lens housing minus its optics or a adjustable length extention tube. Both would have to have large I.D.'s especially on the camera side of the GG. Also your extra UV filter (the one you use to block the dirt from getting on your ground glass) should have a antireflection coating on it because it faces right at the ground glass. -Brett Erskine

March 5th, 2004, 04:50 PM	#463
John Heskett Regular Crew Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Terre Haute Indiana Posts: 181	Please bear with my ignorance about optics. There is all this talk about FL, help clear a few things up for me. SLR lens -> GG -> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV OK I know that FL is important here SLR lens -FL> GG so the image on the GG is in focus. and I understand the basics about different color waves acting a little short or long in relation to each other. But is FL important anywhere else in this setup Maybe here SLR lens -FL> GG -FL> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV or here SLR lens -FL> GG -> Condenser -FL> -> Macro -> DV Is the condenser flat side right up against the GG? Will the Hoya +7 or +10 work as the condenser? Thanks John __________________ Illuminate the Vision

March 5th, 2004, 06:38 PM	#465
Paolo Rudelli Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Milan-Berlin-Paris-Bruxelles Posts: 26	fresnel & fresnel VS condenser lens Some one have a idear which is the best fresnel lents to use . I find few on edmund optics website whit Effective Size diamater of 2" but different type: IR fresnel http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2042 Aspherically Contoured Fresnel Lenses http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2039 PCX visible fresnel http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2040 some one test both solution to avoid hot spot : frenel & condenser some info best solution last question.. some one test whit boss screen ??? Ciao

March 4th, 2004, 06:23 PM	#452
Roman Shafro Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 84	Does anyone know of a link where I can find out the actual inner (female part) and outer (male part) diameters of various step-up rings? The local stores are not too thrilled to open sealed step-up ring packages to let me measure them :). Also, I've read a few recommendations where it's advised to place the condensor lens in front of the GG ( i.e., SLR Lens -> condensor -> GG ) and NOT behind it, to minimize reflections. Has anyone tried to compare these two cases in practice?

March 4th, 2004, 06:56 PM	#453
Frank Ladner Major Player Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Poplarville, MS Posts: 453	I've been trying to keep this project cheap, but I realize that I do need a closeup filter. Obviously, I need a two element solution to cut down on the chromatic aberration problem, so I think I've about decided on this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=77546&is=REG Anyone else know of something cheaper? What about the Hoya filters...anyone using a 58mm achromatic diopter other than the Century Optics brand? Thanks!

March 5th, 2004, 12:26 AM	#454
Brett Erskine Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 445	The +10 Hoya's are generally a better deal at about $70 but ideally you usually want to get a diopter no stronger than you need in order to avoid moving your GG back farther away from your camera to make up the difference. Getting the right kind for your camera will make sure your adapter is as physically small as possible in the end. -Brett Erskine

March 5th, 2004, 02:07 AM	#455
Brett Erskine Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 445	Jonathon Wilson where are thoughs condenser FL numbers?

March 5th, 2004, 02:08 AM	#456
Jonathon Wilson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 182	Dude - I"m still at work. I think I've been at my house for a total of like 6 hours total in the last three days. You'll get 'em once I actually see 'em :)

March 5th, 2004, 08:33 AM	#457
Frank Ladner Major Player Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Poplarville, MS Posts: 453	Brett: I found an old post where you had a link to some of the Hoyas, but the ones in that price range weren't two-element, where they? I probably looked at it wrong. Also, what strength would you recommend for a Canon GL2? Thanks!

March 5th, 2004, 01:22 PM	#458
Brett Erskine Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 445	Send me the link or check out the part number with Hoya. Since I have a DVX100 and not a GL2 I dont know. Im pretty sure the info as already been posted. Otherwise your going to have to go to your local camera shop and test diopters out yourself.

March 5th, 2004, 02:17 PM	#459
Frank Ladner Major Player Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Poplarville, MS Posts: 453	The problem is that I'm in south Mississippi. Not a high concentration of camera/video equipment suppliers here. I'd sure like being able to walk into a place with my camera and try stuff out, though. Here is the link in question: http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoyacloseup07.html My only option - the two-element adapter in 58mm size - only go up to +5, and are $111.63.

March 5th, 2004, 03:43 PM	#460
Roman Shafro Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 84	Frank, here's a good link for achromats: http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/closeups.html It also tells you how to calculate the focusing distance when adding a diopter, so you can figure out the lowest value that's useable with your camera. Like Brett says, go for the lowest value necessary to avoid spherical aberrations.

March 5th, 2004, 04:14 PM	#461
Frank Ladner Major Player Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Poplarville, MS Posts: 453	I appreciate that link, Roman! Looks like a lot of helpful info at the bottom of that page. Thanks!

March 5th, 2004, 04:38 PM	#462
Brett Erskine Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 445	Frank I checked out your link. Thats the same price as I've seen for the Hoya +10 achromat macros but just call up the Filter Connection and ask to make sure.

March 5th, 2004, 05:40 PM	#464
Roman Shafro Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 84	<< But is FL important anywhere else in this setup >> IMHO, no. As long as you can focus onto the GG image (with macro or without, depending on your camera), you're OK. << Is the condenser flat side right up against the GG? >> IMHO, yes, but Alain had his condensor with convex side up against the GG. << Will the Hoya +7 or +10 work as the condenser? >> Sounds like a great idea to me. The +10 diopter's focal length is 1000/10 = 100mm, which sounds about right, although I don't believe that condensor's FL is that important, since you put it right against the GG.