Static 35mm Adapter Solution

Filip Kovcin · January 3rd, 2004, 03:40 AM

louis,

this is exelent news. so exiting!!!!

i feel that we all are kind of underground group and working in secrecy to show one day - ta-dammm - it's here!

i'm desperate to see the results, but from the other hand, now i have SO big need to do some tests - since my guy who knows optisc asked me by the way about holograms, and i IGNORED!!!! that part. now, i know that there is SOMETHING which can be used from holograms.

by coincidence or not the very first part of the world HOLOgram means:

PREFIX: Whole; entire; entirely
ETYMOLOGY: Greek, from holos, whole !!!!

so that HOLO means that you have all parts to build it! :)

so, good luck, and share the news!

filip

Nicholi Brossia · January 3rd, 2004, 02:00 PM

So maybe Vendible, or Louis (I can't figure out what to call you now) is designing the new Holo35 or 35mm Holodaptor ;).

Dean Harrington · January 5th, 2004, 12:29 AM

I've been following these developments with bated breath since the Agus 35 developments. I realize I'm waiting in the wings on making this 35mm adaptor but I've got a feeling Louis is going in the right direction with the holo-diaptor.
Good luck and keep it coming.
I kind of think Holo-mini 35 is a good name for the unit.

Richard Mellor · January 5th, 2004, 01:03 AM

I think the holo35 is going to work. I will join in on a power buy
when we have a parts list .

Nicholi Brossia · January 5th, 2004, 01:54 PM

I was really just kidding around with the name. This is Louis's idea, experiment, and money, so he should have the honor of naming the adaptor.

Louis Feng · January 5th, 2004, 03:59 PM

<<<-- Originally posted by Richard Mellor : I think the holo35 is going to work. I will join in on a power buy
when we have a parts list . -->>>

Great, when people want to buy these diffuser together, please post the number of diffuser you like. I'll add them up and post the current number somewhere.

One thing about the diffusers, is they need to be taken care of very carefully, even more careful than you would with your Nikkor lens. Emund's web page has instruction on how to clean it. basically, you would only use water and air to wash and dry it. After a few scratchs on mine, I think it's best to keep them in the plastic bag it came in and only take it out when you are ready to put it in your adapter housing, and never touch the surface (hold with the edges).

Because they are very thin, you can cut the 2x2in (51x51mm) piece into two 25.5x51 pieces, since you only need one with 24x35mm. With the extras on the left/right, you can use paper(or something else) to sandwich the diffuser in between, and then you can stick it on to your housing.

The prisms I got are from the links Nicholi posted earlier in the thread. The cost me about $55 in total. Not perfect quality but certainly useable and worth the price. If you can find a roof-pentaprism, then you only need another front side mirror, basically the same setup as the 35mm SLR camera (see the photo I have in my photo gallery).

I'm getting a 10 and 30 degree HD to see if they will improve the image brightness.

Dean Harrington · January 5th, 2004, 06:30 PM

I'm in for two. The basic element is to determine which would be better. You mentioned that a 10 to 40 degree element might be better suited to concentrate the light more directly into the lense of the cam. I await you experiments.

Nathanael Jackson · January 5th, 2004, 07:25 PM

As I mentioned before, I'm in for one diffuser too.

As for flipping the image, I think there is a way to rotate the image 180 degrees with a series of 4 mirrors. If anyone knows where to get cheap 45 degree mirrors (90 degree image deflection)...
I think finding the right size mirrors to get the entire 35x24mm frame would be a lot easier than prisms... and there aren't big pieces of glass the light goes through either, as we do need to conserve as much light as we possibly can.

Anyway, I would assume that optical mirrors would be loads cheaper than these prisms.

Louis Feng · January 5th, 2004, 08:18 PM

Current group buy list

http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~fengl/diffuserbuy.txt

Filip Kovcin · January 5th, 2004, 08:34 PM

i suggest to keep updated list on the very same site as you mentioned

http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~fengl/diffuserbuy.txt

but to contact you via your e-mail. it will be easier (i think), then to use this thread just to say : i'm also in, need ... pieces etc.
after, say, 20 people replies like "me too, me too" nobody will find the real thread here.

let's discuss the proper things on this thread and contact you directly when hologlass is needed?

is this ok with you?

(by the way, i'm also in - for two pieces.)

filip

Louis Feng · January 5th, 2004, 11:31 PM

Filip, that sounds good.

So anyone interested just email me with number of pieces. I'll add it to the list. I can be reached at coppercapt (at) yahoo.com.

Nicholi Brossia · January 6th, 2004, 12:46 AM

Am I correct in assuming that this order won't be purchased until after you've figured out the most usable angle of diffusion? I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but I tend to be a bit skeptical about everything. I am waiting until you finish your experiments, but I do plan to be in on this group buy as long as I'm getting the right stuff. Just making sure before I send the official email :).

Louis Feng · January 6th, 2004, 01:10 AM

<<<-- Originally posted by Nicholi Brossia : Am I correct in assuming that this order won't be purchased until after you've figured out the most usable angle of diffusion? I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but I tend to be a bit skeptical about everything. I am waiting until you finish your experiments, but I do plan to be in on this group buy as long as I'm getting the right stuff. Just making sure before I send the official email :). -->>>

Certainly, if it doesn't work, I won't buy any myself either although I did get them for testing. This is not a promise or any kind of contract. It only tells how many people want to get it IF it works and gives hope to get them at OEM price. I plan to post videos without any modification and full resolution snapshots before we decide whether it's good enough. I know many have posted their videos with color corrections but I don't think it shows exactly how good/bad it looks. In fact I'm going to video the same thing with and without the adapter to compare the quality and light loss.

If it doesn't work, then we'll look for something else. I have nothing to complain about the holo diffuser I have at 80 degree other than it is not bright enough. It solves all other problems (image quality, hot spot etc.). As I posted earlier, a 10 degree and a 30 degree diffusers are on their way to me. I suspect they will improve the lighting dramatically but I'm uncertain about the grain. If the 10 degree version doesn't make any visible grain, then I think that's the way to go, since it will be the brightest of all holographic diffusers.

I also notice and Helen has also mentioned, those light stops on the lens are quite important. I have a Nikkor 35-70 with f3.5, that's a lot less light compare to my Fuji 35 with F1.9. Get lens with smaller f number if you can.

I'm having my fingers crossed.

Filip Kovcin · January 6th, 2004, 11:12 AM

louis,

i bought on sunday on the second hand photo market rare piece of russian lens, as i was told it was used on russian cosmic program (spy?) it's a huge ang weights "a ton" - and has f1,5. which makes picture VEry bright in my adapter. i agree that "f" is very important. keep this as low as possible! (which also helps in shallow DOF).
just a thought.

filip

p.s.

(O.T.) if someone is curious how it looks - i can send the picture to louis.

Taylor Moore · January 6th, 2004, 11:24 AM

Here is the link to Filips frosted CD 2 for 1.

http://www.moorefilms.com/frosted.htm

January 3rd, 2004, 03:40 AM	#76
Filip Kovcin Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: warsaw, poland Posts: 440	Louis Feng (vendible) louis, this is exelent news. so exiting!!!! i feel that we all are kind of underground group and working in secrecy to show one day - ta-dammm - it's here! i'm desperate to see the results, but from the other hand, now i have SO big need to do some tests - since my guy who knows optisc asked me by the way about holograms, and i IGNORED!!!! that part. now, i know that there is SOMETHING which can be used from holograms. by coincidence or not the very first part of the world HOLOgram means: PREFIX: Whole; entire; entirely ETYMOLOGY: Greek, from holos, whole !!!! so that HOLO means that you have all parts to build it! :) so, good luck, and share the news! filip

January 3rd, 2004, 02:00 PM	#77
Nicholi Brossia Major Player Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 389	So maybe Vendible, or Louis (I can't figure out what to call you now) is designing the new Holo35 or 35mm Holodaptor ;). __________________ Nicholi Brossia

January 5th, 2004, 12:29 AM	#78
Dean Harrington Major Player Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Tokyo Posts: 898	this is exciting...... I've been following these developments with bated breath since the Agus 35 developments. I realize I'm waiting in the wings on making this 35mm adaptor but I've got a feeling Louis is going in the right direction with the holo-diaptor. Good luck and keep it coming. I kind of think Holo-mini 35 is a good name for the unit.

January 5th, 2004, 01:54 PM	#80
Nicholi Brossia Major Player Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 389	I was really just kidding around with the name. This is Louis's idea, experiment, and money, so he should have the honor of naming the adaptor. __________________ Nicholi Brossia

January 5th, 2004, 06:30 PM	#82
Dean Harrington Major Player Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Tokyo Posts: 898	Thanks Louis..... I'm in for two. The basic element is to determine which would be better. You mentioned that a 10 to 40 degree element might be better suited to concentrate the light more directly into the lense of the cam. I await you experiments.

January 5th, 2004, 01:03 AM	#79
Richard Mellor Major Player Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: cambridge ma Posts: 247	I think the holo35 is going to work. I will join in on a power buy when we have a parts list .

January 5th, 2004, 03:59 PM	#81
Louis Feng Vendible Book Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 59	<<<-- Originally posted by Richard Mellor : I think the holo35 is going to work. I will join in on a power buy when we have a parts list . -->>> Great, when people want to buy these diffuser together, please post the number of diffuser you like. I'll add them up and post the current number somewhere. One thing about the diffusers, is they need to be taken care of very carefully, even more careful than you would with your Nikkor lens. Emund's web page has instruction on how to clean it. basically, you would only use water and air to wash and dry it. After a few scratchs on mine, I think it's best to keep them in the plastic bag it came in and only take it out when you are ready to put it in your adapter housing, and never touch the surface (hold with the edges). Because they are very thin, you can cut the 2x2in (51x51mm) piece into two 25.5x51 pieces, since you only need one with 24x35mm. With the extras on the left/right, you can use paper(or something else) to sandwich the diffuser in between, and then you can stick it on to your housing. The prisms I got are from the links Nicholi posted earlier in the thread. The cost me about $55 in total. Not perfect quality but certainly useable and worth the price. If you can find a roof-pentaprism, then you only need another front side mirror, basically the same setup as the 35mm SLR camera (see the photo I have in my photo gallery). I'm getting a 10 and 30 degree HD to see if they will improve the image brightness.

January 5th, 2004, 07:25 PM	#83
Nathanael Jackson New Boot Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Wheaton, IL Posts: 7	As I mentioned before, I'm in for one diffuser too. As for flipping the image, I think there is a way to rotate the image 180 degrees with a series of 4 mirrors. If anyone knows where to get cheap 45 degree mirrors (90 degree image deflection)... I think finding the right size mirrors to get the entire 35x24mm frame would be a lot easier than prisms... and there aren't big pieces of glass the light goes through either, as we do need to conserve as much light as we possibly can. Anyway, I would assume that optical mirrors would be loads cheaper than these prisms.

January 5th, 2004, 08:18 PM	#84
Louis Feng Vendible Book Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 59	Current group buy list http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~fengl/diffuserbuy.txt

January 5th, 2004, 08:34 PM	#85
Filip Kovcin Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: warsaw, poland Posts: 440	louis (vendible) i suggest to keep updated list on the very same site as you mentioned http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~fengl/diffuserbuy.txt but to contact you via your e-mail. it will be easier (i think), then to use this thread just to say : i'm also in, need ... pieces etc. after, say, 20 people replies like "me too, me too" nobody will find the real thread here. let's discuss the proper things on this thread and contact you directly when hologlass is needed? is this ok with you? (by the way, i'm also in - for two pieces.) filip

January 5th, 2004, 11:31 PM	#86
Louis Feng Vendible Book Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 59	Filip, that sounds good. So anyone interested just email me with number of pieces. I'll add it to the list. I can be reached at coppercapt (at) yahoo.com.

January 6th, 2004, 12:46 AM	#87
Nicholi Brossia Major Player Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 389	Am I correct in assuming that this order won't be purchased until after you've figured out the most usable angle of diffusion? I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but I tend to be a bit skeptical about everything. I am waiting until you finish your experiments, but I do plan to be in on this group buy as long as I'm getting the right stuff. Just making sure before I send the official email :). __________________ Nicholi Brossia

January 6th, 2004, 01:10 AM	#88
Louis Feng Vendible Book Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 59	<<<-- Originally posted by Nicholi Brossia : Am I correct in assuming that this order won't be purchased until after you've figured out the most usable angle of diffusion? I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but I tend to be a bit skeptical about everything. I am waiting until you finish your experiments, but I do plan to be in on this group buy as long as I'm getting the right stuff. Just making sure before I send the official email :). -->>> Certainly, if it doesn't work, I won't buy any myself either although I did get them for testing. This is not a promise or any kind of contract. It only tells how many people want to get it IF it works and gives hope to get them at OEM price. I plan to post videos without any modification and full resolution snapshots before we decide whether it's good enough. I know many have posted their videos with color corrections but I don't think it shows exactly how good/bad it looks. In fact I'm going to video the same thing with and without the adapter to compare the quality and light loss. If it doesn't work, then we'll look for something else. I have nothing to complain about the holo diffuser I have at 80 degree other than it is not bright enough. It solves all other problems (image quality, hot spot etc.). As I posted earlier, a 10 degree and a 30 degree diffusers are on their way to me. I suspect they will improve the lighting dramatically but I'm uncertain about the grain. If the 10 degree version doesn't make any visible grain, then I think that's the way to go, since it will be the brightest of all holographic diffusers. I also notice and Helen has also mentioned, those light stops on the lens are quite important. I have a Nikkor 35-70 with f3.5, that's a lot less light compare to my Fuji 35 with F1.9. Get lens with smaller f number if you can. I'm having my fingers crossed.

January 6th, 2004, 11:12 AM	#89
Filip Kovcin Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: warsaw, poland Posts: 440	russian monster lens louis, i bought on sunday on the second hand photo market rare piece of russian lens, as i was told it was used on russian cosmic program (spy?) it's a huge ang weights "a ton" - and has f1,5. which makes picture VEry bright in my adapter. i agree that "f" is very important. keep this as low as possible! (which also helps in shallow DOF). just a thought. filip p.s. (O.T.) if someone is curious how it looks - i can send the picture to louis.

January 6th, 2004, 11:24 AM	#90
Taylor Moore Regular Crew Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Canada Posts: 94	Here is the link to Filips frosted CD 2 for 1. http://www.moorefilms.com/frosted.htm