September 29th, 2006, 12:03 AM | #1456 |
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Thanks!
Bob,
Thanks for the advice; I'll try my best to apply all of it-- I'm trying to get in production ready for two short films I'm making. BTW, what's the quickest way to make an adjustable rod clamp? Thanks, Sheldon |
September 29th, 2006, 08:17 AM | #1457 |
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Adjustable rod clamp? Got me on that one. I assume by rod you mean, of the lens hood and matte box Cavision style of arrangement.
I have another thread here relating to rods because I have need of knowlege on this question. For different diameter rods, I guess you would need to have a Vee shaped channel across a piece of metal, at the end, a centre slot along the centre of that piece of metal and inside that another thin piece of metal with another Vee shape cut across that. There would need to be a tail cut on the thin piece, outboard of the main metal piece, a sort of double "L" shape so a threaded hole in the main piece can carry a screw or a bolt which comes right through and presses against the tail of the thin piece to force it to close on the rod like an anvil type secateur pruner. This would look like a cross ebtween a clothes peg and pruner. The use of a thin pieice in a central slot would keep the clamping pressure centred and not cause the rod to tilt sideways. Another way would be to drill a hole across at the end of of the piece intended to be the clamp, make the hole the size of the largest rod to be used, drill and tap a bolt hole so a bolt or screw can be screwed down on to the rod. For smaller sizes a sleeve would need to be used for each size to reduce the hole diameter down. On that discussion page, a suggestion was made for my situation where I have used thick material. To increase the ability of the metal to bend where needed, several holes and "Tee" shaped slots were suggested. This method only applies to a fixed rod size. I guess if sleeves were made to be a really snug fit, this clamping arrangment could work for several rods sizes. Seeyyumeeyah :- http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=76241 While I am playing around putting links on the page, here's another one which might be of interest :- http://www.screenwest.com.au/index.c...B2FDD4B037EF9C Last edited by Bob Hart; September 29th, 2006 at 09:00 AM. |
October 6th, 2006, 05:22 AM | #1458 |
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Out of curiousity, has anyone tried a 16:9 anamorphic lens on front of a relay device which is attached to a 16:9 format camcorder?
As for the PD150, the Century Optics 16:9 works on front of a 28mm f1.8 Sigma for Nikon Mount and on front of a 50mm f1.8 Nikon for a DSLR or motion picture frame. Rescaling the resulting image in PP2 yields a watchable sort of cinemascope but not outstanding image to DVD-Video. I don't think I would be going out of my way to make a small or feature project with this method but it might be a valid method for creating the effect of one as a short segment in another conventional video project. |
October 15th, 2006, 07:47 AM | #1459 |
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I have had a go at posting an Agus35 test which is comprised of direct-to-camera 16:9 footage to FX1 and Agus35 4:3 footage to PD150 fr the low light performance shot in low light conditions at a live gig.
It is on YouTube as a .flv file as advised on this forum. I don't know how well it has gone. The last postings I put there weren't remarkable for resolution. As the audio on my download computer is somewhat deceased I can't vouch for how the sound transferred. It wasn't all that good, - room ambience. It should be findable at this address :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocWCjkXSRIA FOOTNOTE: Doesn't work. I think I might have broken YouTube. It might just be taking time so might try again later. Last edited by Bob Hart; October 15th, 2006 at 09:21 AM. |
October 15th, 2006, 12:00 PM | #1460 | |
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Quote:
Is there any way to see a full or better quality fragment? |
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October 15th, 2006, 01:15 PM | #1461 |
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I have had another shot at putting it up again, this time the address is :-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgZaynJD3_I I'm not sure how this one is going. It has been sitting dead for a long time the way the first one did. I have tried to export a higher definition H264 file for posting elsewhere but the software does not get on with PP2 and creates a file which is visible only in the bottom right hand corner of the available frame and hugely enlarged. It may be something to do with Service Pack 4 being needed, all in all a frustrating business. FOOTNOTE: This one seems to have taken root but the images are very blurry. |
October 17th, 2006, 09:33 AM | #1462 |
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Video made with Agus35
Nice video Bob.
Shot this Saturday in 2 hrs: http://www.schtm.com/ghosts.html |
October 20th, 2006, 10:18 AM | #1463 |
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A poor quality clip from the Peleng lens to Agus35 can be found at YouTube at the following address :-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t5EKQW0mB0 |
October 21st, 2006, 12:34 AM | #1464 |
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I think I may have found a pure and unsullied upload path to a file sharing site which can shake hands with my old online computer through the 300metre overhead copper pair landline which feeds my premises and exacts financial tribute for its efforts.
No guarantees as to how the download works as I cannot afford to bring it back down to look at it. It is a 30mb .wmv file. I have kept the frame rate to half in order to preserve some resolution. It is an assembly of some lens tests, 12 - 24mm f4 Nikon digital SLR zoom on wide, 14mm Sigma f2.8, 50 Nikon f1.8, 85mm Nikon f1.8. The subject is the Armadale retail dragstrip on Friday arvo markets day. You will observe that there is some edge falloff from the prism path on left and on right from the lens mount being incorrectly centred. The zoom was pulled back a little in attempt to get better resolution. The TV safe area is fine but underscan shows the falloff. This specimen of my experiments is covered with drillholes, patchups and other mutilations and is inclined to move off true during heavy handling. Optical path is SLR lens >> AO5 groundglass non-backpolished Ohara disk, CD-R size, at 1500 rpm >> 2 x prism >> Century Optics 4+ achromatic dioptre, Sony HDR-FX1 camcorder at about 50mm zoom-in, shutter 1/50th sec, 0db video gain and SLR lens apertures set to enable as close to f5.6 camcorder iris setting as possible without causing groundglass artifacts, manual whitebalance to Lemac Chart ( = grey card). Illumination conditions, bright daylight, facing south-southwest, then north-northeast. Time mid afternoon in southern hemisphere late spring. The address for download follows :- http://www.filefactory.com/file/fcebfe/ Here's hoping it works. FOOTNOTE TO ABOVE: Filefactory itself is a free service. My ramblings above might be misleading. Last edited by Bob Hart; October 21st, 2006 at 05:29 AM. |
October 21st, 2006, 03:42 AM | #1465 |
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diy macro
Do somone know how the "diy macro" in the redrock m2 guide is made?
Cant find any information about it. thanks daniel |
October 21st, 2006, 05:33 AM | #1466 |
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Daniel.
Chris Hurd has recently put up a link to a dvinfo archive on the Redrock before it became Redrock. Might be worth a look. I dont recall the home made macro myself. The link :- http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/forumdisplay.php?f=81 |
October 21st, 2006, 05:57 AM | #1467 |
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thanks i read it before.
On the first posts the "creator" of the redrock m2 wants to tell the trick than on the other hand he wants $$$ for the tip or to buy the whole guide. I know he spent some time for that simple trick but i dont want to waste my money on every bit of information that should be free on these DIY forums. >>>I found the trick on other sites from macrophotography. Its very simple. Get a cheap binocular 7x50 with 50-70mm front lens diameter (depends on your camcorder lens). Take out the frontlenses from that binocular (these are achromats and mostly coated). Only one Achromat should have +6. If you stack them you reach that +10-12 for use with the HVX200 or Sony HDV. If you get a old Zeiss binocular from ebay and put the lenses together you should get the same quality as the overprized century optic achromats. best regards Daniel |
October 21st, 2006, 08:29 AM | #1468 |
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Daniel.
If you have read the like of it before then please ignore the following. An earlier version (non-flip) of my plumber's PVC pipe flavour of Agus35 used a set of optics from a generic telescope eyepiece I believe to be out of China. I reversed the orientation of the lens set relative to the camera view, mounted the optics in a new tube with a 58mm filter thread on the end and this worked fine. It caused a very close couple to the camcorder and front of lens to GG distance was between 12mm and 18mm. The best position between these two had to be chosen to avoid barrel distortion or pincushion distortion. The camcorder zoom had to be right in. The lens set was unbranded and sold as a fit for Tasco telescopes. It was described as a 50mm 2 inch eyepiece and the only part number to be found on the pack was SW5042. The only motion clip to be found on www.dvinfo.net/media/hart as "agusdemo.mov" was shot on a PD150 using this arrangement. If you don't want to wait for the .mov file to download, there are frame grabs from this footage as filenames "mtatk2f1.JPG" or similar. The image area was about 24mm x 18mm. There was a bit of brightness falloff into the corners. I moved on to a flip version because of practical difficulties of using cameras upside down or having to carry an extra monitor around. |
October 31st, 2006, 07:33 AM | #1469 |
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A bit more fisheye footage of cityscapes can be found at this address.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEtydLGwECQ Conditions were bright outdoors 3pm clear skies. I neglected to keep notes as humble public begain to look anxious at some locations so I kept moving along. My version of the AGUS35 was described to me on the day as "that looks like the bastid issue of a multinova out of a tommygun. What do you use it for." Also, the DeHavilland Tiger Moth aircraft is now 75 years of age. There is a clip oflong camera footage shot last Sunday at Murrayfield, Western Australia. It was shot on theAGUS35 in aerial image mode, that is, no groundglass, simply used as a direct adaptor for a long lens onto the Sony camcorder. The lens is a Sigma f4-6.3 50mm - 500mm zoom. It works fine with th4 groundglass but better without it. The clip is here :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8f6Y3u1yYQ Last edited by Bob Hart; October 31st, 2006 at 09:24 AM. |
October 31st, 2006, 05:52 PM | #1470 |
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nice stuff Bob!
Redrock really are fast these days. Ordered the M2 yesterday, it shipped today. i asked if there was any way I could get it quicker and a nice lady said no problem she would walk it through production the next day. She did, it's on it's way and I will get it Thursday. Will let you know my thoughts! |
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