Homemade 35mm Adapter

Barry Green · December 4th, 2003, 10:43 PM

The XL1 is going to be the most difficult camera to adapt to the Agus35. You need a lens to focus the image from the ground glass onto the CCD's. In the mini35, for the DVX100 and the PD150, they use the camera's built-in lens (as Agus is using for his adapter). For the XL1 mini35, they supply a relay lens for that purpose. If you have an XL1 and don't have a relay lens, you won't be able to use the Agus35 (unless you want to stick it on the front of your 16x lens).

Agus Casse · December 5th, 2003, 12:54 AM

Today we shoot a Maseratti racing car, i got some awesome shoots that i will post later...

Jacob, you can adapt 35mm lens to the xls, but you wont get DOF, but you can find some canon SLR lens (could be old) that are used to get pictures to really close distance, in that way you can shoot the ground glass with no problem... so in other words you need to find a relay lens that replace your 16x one to a macro type one (dunno if macro is used to take close pictures).

I have tons of work i am sorry for no posting the plans yet, but i really barely have time to sleep.

Peter Sciretta · December 5th, 2003, 07:39 AM

I have a pd150 camera

I need to magnify the image as I can't focus on it and its too small when its in focus...

I can't afford to break any of my wide angle lens as agus did.

Can I by a macro or "telephoto" lens that will do the same thing? or amy i thinking wrongly?

Dino Reyes · December 5th, 2003, 11:33 AM

I actually believe the XL1S is perfectly suited for the Agus35. There may be some other costs involved but very nominal comparison to purchasing/leasing the Mini35. So far these are my plans, the most important part is the support bracket, which I have just ordered this, a baseplate with rails $295(http://www.jbkcine.com/i-1.JPG) from here http://www.jbkcine.com, I also have an EF adapter, but you can probably pick one up here $395, http://www.virtualcybervision.com/xl1/EOSMAIN.htm (btw, all EF adapaters are real pieces of junk, they don't really work unless you have, like, a 500mm lens) but since they are machined one offs, you might be able to pick one up on ebay a bit cheaper. Now once you have the adapter, you can put on a standard prime lens, hopefully, I'll know when my brackett and rods come in, I should just about be able to stand a 25CD container right on top + batteries, and the lens on the other side. Since the camera already large I think good support base is important. As far as the glass, I've working with a stain glass person to help me cut different types of glass I want to test out. Very cheap actually, $5 per glass cut in the shape of a CD. I'll either dremel one side to make a gg (ground glass) or get them to use etching acid (which i think could be best) and also, just for experiementing I ordered 2 - 5 x7 sheets of optic quality gg like $30 bucks total... so that's where i am at so far with my Agus35, I'll keep everyone posted, stay tuned....

ps: also why the xl1 is great is because of it's AMAZING low light capabilities, once you have an ideal optical adjustment the results should be stunning...

Peter Sciretta · December 5th, 2003, 11:38 AM

the pd150 is even better than the xl1 in low light, and I think would make the best camera for use with this type adapter

Charles King · December 5th, 2003, 12:00 PM

Agus. Can't wait for your tutorial. One questions though. what is the rpm of the motor you're using to spin the disc?

Dino Reyes · December 5th, 2003, 12:08 PM

sounds great, can't wait to see a Agus35 adapted to a one-fifty, might want to try this for a telephoto adapter that is reasonalbe price.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2969620290&category=29964 I would be interested to see how you support the unit once attached...

Agus Casse · December 5th, 2003, 05:43 PM

<<<-- Originally posted by Charles King : Agus. Can't wait for your tutorial. One questions though. what is the rpm of the motor you're using to spin the disc? -->>>]

I couldnt tell, but damn it go fast... i will try to post some new videos tomorrow

Agus Casse · December 5th, 2003, 05:45 PM

Dyno,

You could make your own support with much less than that money. Still it is a great idea, cause then you will be able to adapt other film accesories like matte boxes, and larger lens.

Devin Doyle · December 6th, 2003, 09:24 AM

Hey everyone, after tracking this thread with bated breath and waiting for our good buddy Agus to release a "how-to," I couldn't take it anymore and finally went out yesterday and made my own "Agus 50mm mod." Based on the "Ghetto 35mm" (which is a sweet name, Jun) and Agus' pics I went around town and collected:

- 30 cd-r pack (for the spindle and clear cd)
- 3V electric motor + AAA housing (gotta love Radioshack)
- A rear lens cap for my Dad's old Olympus 50mm lens
- Some black paint from Wal-Mart for a buck
- Already had sand paper, a glue gun, and the lens

Hard to believe that's all you need, but sho'nuff it is. First I took the rear lens cap and sawed off the back (a laborious job indeed for a young squire with only a hacksaw) but I managed. The reason I used this to connect the 50mm lens to the body was so that you could easily interchange lenses and avoid gluing the whole lens to the body (pops wasn't too keen on that one, see the pic below). Then with a bit of elbow grease I cut the 50mm hole in the top cover of the cd-r spindle, then the 58mm hole in the back (for my GL1's lens).

It was then that I realized that our 58mm cams (VX2K, GL1, GL2, PD-150) require a hole that covers part of the middle of the back - exactly where the motor needed to sit. So, I opted to install the motor from the front. (more cutting in the front part of the cd-r spindle) I next took some very fine sandpaper and scratched away at the plastic cd. I broke an old, soft, plastic cd case and mounted just the center part to the shaft of the motor, then popped the cd on. (You can barely see it in the pic labeled "guts". This way it's pretty much centered with little vibration that Agus experienced.

After that - I got out the hot glue gun and went to town. I adhered the now back-less back lens cap around my 50mm hole, and stuck the motor in and glued it securely directly beneath my lens mount. Hot glue is about the best thing for this because it's strong, but can easily be broken away if you mess up. I found it helpful. Of course, before I glued the motor in place I put the lens on the back lens cap mount I made and checked which focal length resulted in a sharp image on the scratched cd. Then I glued the motor with the cd on. Next I simply painted the whole thing and allowed it to dry overnight.

It works like a charm on my naked eye, unfortunately, my GL1 is in the shop due to a faulty LCD (crocodile tears) Therefore I don't have any video to share. I took the pics below so you can see the finished product. The pics of it in action are pretty sheissty, not too much I can do with a digi-cam, and they really don't do justice to what you see with your eye alone.

I attached it to my parent's old VHS-C cam and it works pretty well (as well as it can work with such a consumer cam) but it's really quite amazing how the image is projected onto the spinning plastic. Anyways, hope I didn't babble too much, and I wanna send thanks out to Agus, Jun, and everyone else on the thread for contributing ideas! I hope this post can help someone out!

http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_wide.JPG
http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_lens.JPG
http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_guts.JPG
http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_far.JPG
http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_close.JPG

Agus Casse · December 6th, 2003, 10:53 AM

Good job Devin, now you are the third owner know to have a Agus35 built (i love the name... why would be ??)

Have a question, how exactly did you made that part where you attach your lens ? i looks like it has a lock in system.

Again, congratulations, and i would suggest you to use a 600 sandpapers for the cd, and make little scracthes, as you will noticed then with the camera you will get a better stable image if you make the GG with it.

Also, for everybody, let me recomend to shut down the steady shot, it wont work with Agus35 and again you will get a better image, also put the auto shutter to off and set it manually.

Noah Posnick · December 6th, 2003, 10:58 AM

Looks good, could you give me the model number of the motor parts, as I'll be making my trip to radio shack soon. One quick question: it doesn't seem that you have a way to make sure the connection between your 35mm adapter and the GL1 is secure. In other words, what's preventing the adapter from falling off the GL1 when your lets say in the process of a tilt?

Devin Doyle · December 6th, 2003, 11:09 AM

Agus - Thanks! The part where the lens connects to the body is merely a back lens cap for an olympus lens, the only thing I did was saw off the back so that way it became a ring. It does lock, but not enough that I'd be comfortable shaking the system around a lot. It was 3 bucks at my local camera shop. Once again, kudos for coming up with the cd spindle idea and starting this thread!

Noah - It's just a 1.5V-3V motor. At radioshack they should have a drawer of them. They have larger motors, but i figured this would do the trick and is small enough. It's powered by 2 AAA's. About connecting it to my camera - there's nothing preventing it from coming off. Since my cam is at Canon's repair factory I have no way of working on that facet of the adapter - yet. So try some things on your own, it shouldn't be too tough!

Agus Casse · December 6th, 2003, 11:21 AM

Is there too much motor noise ? i am having serious issues about audio in my agus 35, seens like i will have to put it inside, or look for a way to make it silent.

Devin Doyle · December 6th, 2003, 03:13 PM

It's not completely silent, but then again it's not terribly loud either. There's no way you could use onboard audio with it running though. Where is your motor located? I never saw it in the pics.

December 5th, 2003, 11:33 AM	#124
Dino Reyes Regular Crew Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: brooklyn Posts: 66	Agus35 for the XL1S I actually believe the XL1S is perfectly suited for the Agus35. There may be some other costs involved but very nominal comparison to purchasing/leasing the Mini35. So far these are my plans, the most important part is the support bracket, which I have just ordered this, a baseplate with rails $295(http://www.jbkcine.com/i-1.JPG) from here http://www.jbkcine.com, I also have an EF adapter, but you can probably pick one up here $395, http://www.virtualcybervision.com/xl1/EOSMAIN.htm (btw, all EF adapaters are real pieces of junk, they don't really work unless you have, like, a 500mm lens) but since they are machined one offs, you might be able to pick one up on ebay a bit cheaper. Now once you have the adapter, you can put on a standard prime lens, hopefully, I'll know when my brackett and rods come in, I should just about be able to stand a 25CD container right on top + batteries, and the lens on the other side. Since the camera already large I think good support base is important. As far as the glass, I've working with a stain glass person to help me cut different types of glass I want to test out. Very cheap actually, $5 per glass cut in the shape of a CD. I'll either dremel one side to make a gg (ground glass) or get them to use etching acid (which i think could be best) and also, just for experiementing I ordered 2 - 5 x7 sheets of optic quality gg like $30 bucks total... so that's where i am at so far with my Agus35, I'll keep everyone posted, stay tuned.... ps: also why the xl1 is great is because of it's AMAZING low light capabilities, once you have an ideal optical adjustment the results should be stunning...

December 5th, 2003, 12:00 PM	#126
Charles King Major Player Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: sweden Posts: 795	Agus. Can't wait for your tutorial. One questions though. what is the rpm of the motor you're using to spin the disc? __________________ Charles 'What we perceive to be may not be what we believe to be.'

December 5th, 2003, 12:08 PM	#127
Dino Reyes Regular Crew Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: brooklyn Posts: 66	PD150 sounds great, can't wait to see a Agus35 adapted to a one-fifty, might want to try this for a telephoto adapter that is reasonalbe price.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2969620290&category=29964 I would be interested to see how you support the unit once attached...

December 6th, 2003, 09:24 AM	#130
Devin Doyle Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 188	My Agus 50mm Mod Hey everyone, after tracking this thread with bated breath and waiting for our good buddy Agus to release a "how-to," I couldn't take it anymore and finally went out yesterday and made my own "Agus 50mm mod." Based on the "Ghetto 35mm" (which is a sweet name, Jun) and Agus' pics I went around town and collected: - 30 cd-r pack (for the spindle and clear cd) - 3V electric motor + AAA housing (gotta love Radioshack) - A rear lens cap for my Dad's old Olympus 50mm lens - Some black paint from Wal-Mart for a buck - Already had sand paper, a glue gun, and the lens Hard to believe that's all you need, but sho'nuff it is. First I took the rear lens cap and sawed off the back (a laborious job indeed for a young squire with only a hacksaw) but I managed. The reason I used this to connect the 50mm lens to the body was so that you could easily interchange lenses and avoid gluing the whole lens to the body (pops wasn't too keen on that one, see the pic below). Then with a bit of elbow grease I cut the 50mm hole in the top cover of the cd-r spindle, then the 58mm hole in the back (for my GL1's lens). It was then that I realized that our 58mm cams (VX2K, GL1, GL2, PD-150) require a hole that covers part of the middle of the back - exactly where the motor needed to sit. So, I opted to install the motor from the front. (more cutting in the front part of the cd-r spindle) I next took some very fine sandpaper and scratched away at the plastic cd. I broke an old, soft, plastic cd case and mounted just the center part to the shaft of the motor, then popped the cd on. (You can barely see it in the pic labeled "guts". This way it's pretty much centered with little vibration that Agus experienced. After that - I got out the hot glue gun and went to town. I adhered the now back-less back lens cap around my 50mm hole, and stuck the motor in and glued it securely directly beneath my lens mount. Hot glue is about the best thing for this because it's strong, but can easily be broken away if you mess up. I found it helpful. Of course, before I glued the motor in place I put the lens on the back lens cap mount I made and checked which focal length resulted in a sharp image on the scratched cd. Then I glued the motor with the cd on. Next I simply painted the whole thing and allowed it to dry overnight. It works like a charm on my naked eye, unfortunately, my GL1 is in the shop due to a faulty LCD (crocodile tears) Therefore I don't have any video to share. I took the pics below so you can see the finished product. The pics of it in action are pretty sheissty, not too much I can do with a digi-cam, and they really don't do justice to what you see with your eye alone. I attached it to my parent's old VHS-C cam and it works pretty well (as well as it can work with such a consumer cam) but it's really quite amazing how the image is projected onto the spinning plastic. Anyways, hope I didn't babble too much, and I wanna send thanks out to Agus, Jun, and everyone else on the thread for contributing ideas! I hope this post can help someone out! http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_wide.JPG http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_lens.JPG http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_guts.JPG http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_far.JPG http://www.par-t-com.net/50mm_close.JPG __________________ http://devin.par-t-com.net

December 6th, 2003, 10:58 AM	#132
Noah Posnick Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New York, NY Posts: 64	Looks good, could you give me the model number of the motor parts, as I'll be making my trip to radio shack soon. One quick question: it doesn't seem that you have a way to make sure the connection between your 35mm adapter and the GL1 is secure. In other words, what's preventing the adapter from falling off the GL1 when your lets say in the process of a tilt? __________________ Noah Posnick http://www.posnick.com

December 4th, 2003, 10:43 PM	#121
Barry Green Barry Wan Kenobi Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 3,863	The XL1 is going to be the most difficult camera to adapt to the Agus35. You need a lens to focus the image from the ground glass onto the CCD's. In the mini35, for the DVX100 and the PD150, they use the camera's built-in lens (as Agus is using for his adapter). For the XL1 mini35, they supply a relay lens for that purpose. If you have an XL1 and don't have a relay lens, you won't be able to use the Agus35 (unless you want to stick it on the front of your 16x lens).

December 5th, 2003, 12:54 AM	#122
Agus Casse Major Player Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Guatemala Posts: 322	Today we shoot a Maseratti racing car, i got some awesome shoots that i will post later... Jacob, you can adapt 35mm lens to the xls, but you wont get DOF, but you can find some canon SLR lens (could be old) that are used to get pictures to really close distance, in that way you can shoot the ground glass with no problem... so in other words you need to find a relay lens that replace your 16x one to a macro type one (dunno if macro is used to take close pictures). I have tons of work i am sorry for no posting the plans yet, but i really barely have time to sleep.

December 5th, 2003, 07:39 AM	#123
Peter Sciretta Regular Crew Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 72	I have a pd150 camera I need to magnify the image as I can't focus on it and its too small when its in focus... I can't afford to break any of my wide angle lens as agus did. Can I by a macro or "telephoto" lens that will do the same thing? or amy i thinking wrongly?

December 5th, 2003, 11:38 AM	#125
Peter Sciretta Regular Crew Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 72	the pd150 is even better than the xl1 in low light, and I think would make the best camera for use with this type adapter

December 5th, 2003, 05:43 PM	#128
Agus Casse Major Player Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Guatemala Posts: 322	<<<-- Originally posted by Charles King : Agus. Can't wait for your tutorial. One questions though. what is the rpm of the motor you're using to spin the disc? -->>>] I couldnt tell, but damn it go fast... i will try to post some new videos tomorrow

December 5th, 2003, 05:45 PM	#129
Agus Casse Major Player Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Guatemala Posts: 322	Dyno, You could make your own support with much less than that money. Still it is a great idea, cause then you will be able to adapt other film accesories like matte boxes, and larger lens.

December 6th, 2003, 10:53 AM	#131
Agus Casse Major Player Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Guatemala Posts: 322	Good job Devin, now you are the third owner know to have a Agus35 built (i love the name... why would be ??) Have a question, how exactly did you made that part where you attach your lens ? i looks like it has a lock in system. Again, congratulations, and i would suggest you to use a 600 sandpapers for the cd, and make little scracthes, as you will noticed then with the camera you will get a better stable image if you make the GG with it. Also, for everybody, let me recomend to shut down the steady shot, it wont work with Agus35 and again you will get a better image, also put the auto shutter to off and set it manually.

December 6th, 2003, 11:09 AM	#133
Devin Doyle Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 188	Agus - Thanks! The part where the lens connects to the body is merely a back lens cap for an olympus lens, the only thing I did was saw off the back so that way it became a ring. It does lock, but not enough that I'd be comfortable shaking the system around a lot. It was 3 bucks at my local camera shop. Once again, kudos for coming up with the cd spindle idea and starting this thread! Noah - It's just a 1.5V-3V motor. At radioshack they should have a drawer of them. They have larger motors, but i figured this would do the trick and is small enough. It's powered by 2 AAA's. About connecting it to my camera - there's nothing preventing it from coming off. Since my cam is at Canon's repair factory I have no way of working on that facet of the adapter - yet. So try some things on your own, it shouldn't be too tough! __________________ http://devin.par-t-com.net

December 6th, 2003, 11:21 AM	#134
Agus Casse Major Player Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Guatemala Posts: 322	Is there too much motor noise ? i am having serious issues about audio in my agus 35, seens like i will have to put it inside, or look for a way to make it silent.

December 6th, 2003, 03:13 PM	#135
Devin Doyle Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 188	It's not completely silent, but then again it's not terribly loud either. There's no way you could use onboard audio with it running though. Where is your motor located? I never saw it in the pics. __________________ http://devin.par-t-com.net