January 26th, 2004, 12:05 AM | #856 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: brooklyn
Posts: 66
|
wow nice going alan
Very slick and simple setup. It looks, possibly, like a close-up lens attached to the camera lens with a round GG [i venture to say a real piece of glass which would account of the almost perfect shot] of somekind sandwiched between another piece of tubing connected to the master lens.
sweet! D |
January 26th, 2004, 04:10 AM | #857 |
Inner Circle
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA.
Posts: 4,477
|
A bit of practical advice when using the Agus. Make a white card to take with you, plain on one side for setting white-balance, with a circular target on the other and inside that, a safe frame, which you have determined will give you a full frame on an underscanned image.
Practice - Prior to your shot, go wide angle to bring in the vignette. Frame the vignette on the circular target, then zoom in until the "safe frame" fills your viewfinder frame. I found out the hard way. A stills cameraman for one of the newspapers wandered across to look at the Agus whilst I shot the R & B performance yesterday. I took the thing apart for him and fitted it back - wrong move. I forgot to reset the safe frame on the camcorder in my haste to get the piece I was waiting for which came up sooner than I thought. |
January 26th, 2004, 04:20 AM | #858 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: cambridge ma
Posts: 247
|
alain35
alain the shots were great It looks just like film .
I have made the "agus35" could you tell us how to make the "alain35" |
January 26th, 2004, 04:31 AM | #859 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Esslingen & Frankfurt, Germany
Posts: 47
|
@Alain, your shot is really amazing, tell us more about your setup.
I found this manual how to make your own groundglass, just have a look at http://www.phototechmag.com/previous-articles/2003/mj-dokas/dokas.html |
January 26th, 2004, 06:23 AM | #860 |
Major Player
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 445
|
I would like to share some of my links with everyone. While some will help you solve some of the problems out there others may only serve as a steping stone to a final solution.
GROUND GLASS and ALTERNATVES (Bosscreens Grainless Glass) http://www.bromwellmarketing.com/boards.htm (Prices for Bosscreens) http://www.bromwellmarketing.com/prices/lenses.htm (Ground Glass Substitutes) http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/acg/2003-October/000639.html (Bosscreens) http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.schoon.de/bosscreen/bosscreen.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3DBosscreen%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26sa%3DG (Edmunds Optics - Different Types of Ground Glass) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/Browse.cfm?catid=453 DIAOPTERS, MACROS, ACHROMATS and APOCHROMATS (Tech Spec™ Achromatic Lenses) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1749 (Tech Spec™ Diffraction Limited Large Achromats) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1501 (Commercial Quality Positive Achromatic Lenses) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2401 (Century Optics Diopters) http://www.centuryoptics.com/products/broadcast/achromatic_diopters/ (OptoSigma Percision Optics and Hardware) http://www.optosigma.com/miva/merchant.mv (Cheap/Professional Grade Achromat, doublet, triplet, prisms, etc.) http://www.surplusshed.com/search.cfm PRISMS and IMAGE FLIPABLE LCD's (Tech Spec™ Schmidt Prisms) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2430 (Technically Explaination of Different Types of Prisms) http://www.tecplusplus.de/ManualLu/prisms.htm (Technically Explaination of Different Types of Prisms - Website 2) http://topcontechnotes.home.att.net/viewingsystem/page8.html (OptoSigma Percision Optics and Hardware) http://www.optosigma.com/miva/merchant.mv (Dove Prism) http://www.doveprism.com/ (Cheap/Professional Grade Achromat, doublet, triplet, prisms, etc.) http://www.surplusshed.com/search.cfm OTHER (Flange Focal Distance Table) http://www.gregssandbox.com/gtech/filmfacts/flange.htm (C-Mount Fine Thread Focus Tube) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1678 (MovieTube - Commercial contender to P+S Technik Mini35) http://www.movietube.com/ (Mesmerizier - Rear lens mounted anamorphic optical system) http://www.kishoptics.com/mesmerizer-mini.html (Relay Lens Manuel Iris) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1966 (Aspherically Contoured Fresnel Lenses) http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2039 Brett Erskine Director of Photography Premiere Visions 1761 W. La Palma Ave., Suite #302 Anaheim, CA 92801 www.CinematographerReels.com BErskine@CinematographerReels.com |
January 26th, 2004, 08:45 AM | #861 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 86
|
Set up
The very first thing that I have try are a piece of Roscolux filter
and thid thing are close, but not perfect. Then I try to find the perfect GG.I found some ,very very expensive and not good enought.Then I talk to a guy's at a telescope store and he tell me how to make a GG for $12 but lot of patience, in fact it's about 5 to 7 hour of grinding ;-( As you can see on the photo there is 3 grade of alluminium oxyde 120,300,500 the bigger the number the smaller the grain,the smaller one are like flour. The goal is to have a gain that is smaller than the ccd can see. The fist lens are from a optex 7X magnifier,there is 2 lens in there ,I use only 1 that I have glue on a uv filter ring,so I have my adaptor. For the GG I have buy some uv filter (used one $2 whit scratch) so I have the good shape to start and for the same price the adaptor. Unmount the glass and grind it ,and grind ,and gind................................................................................. then put it back in the ring and that's it for the prototipe I use glue gun so I can unmount easily. One thing that is really important is ,if you are grinding whit grade 300 then never never drop one grain of 120 grain ,otherwise your gone have to come back and start over again. and by the way I prefer Aldu35 :-) here is the photo http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/parts.jpg http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/parts2.jpg Hope it's clear, fell free for any question. Alain |
January 26th, 2004, 08:54 AM | #862 |
Major Player
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: cambridge ma
Posts: 247
|
Aldu35
Alain -
Thank you so much for your complete instructions on how to build this wonderful device. As soon as I get home from work this evening, I'll begin work on the "Aldu35". I like "Aldu35" better anyway. |
January 26th, 2004, 09:11 AM | #863 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 86
|
GG
Another thing is when buying uv filter to make the gg ,there is someof those that are more difficult to unmount maybe impossile, they look like they are are mold whit the ring.The one I use are whit a thin metal ring, that keep the glass in place.
|
January 26th, 2004, 09:43 AM | #864 |
Major Player
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: warsaw, poland
Posts: 440
|
just kind of (i hope) nice joke:
aldu35 = I'll do35 :) filip |
January 26th, 2004, 09:54 AM | #865 |
Major Player
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Poplarville, MS
Posts: 453
|
Here is a place to order some 600 grit Aluminum Oxide for 10.50 / bottle (4 OZ).
http://www.sisweb.com/ms/sis/alumoxid.htm Indeed, achieving a fine grain on a UV filter seems like the way to go, as there is no need for constant motion, and the thing already fits into place. Excellent, Alain! |
January 26th, 2004, 09:58 AM | #866 |
Inner Circle
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA.
Posts: 4,477
|
Alain.
A cheap and unprofessional trick you can use when dressing your groundglass with the aluminium oxide 500. Don't throw out the used powder which is becoming a bit blunt, but wear it down more with a piece of scrap glass. - as you mentioned, keep everything absolutely free of other larger bits of grit. When the oxide pwoder is worn down, try another clean piece of glass on it. Keep the pressure light and do a lot of rubbing. You'll get an even finer texture. Microscope slides are a satisfactory glass if you dont mind rectangular. Using that UV filter was a clever idea. Clear round glass disks (not the plastic ones) from welding suppliers for oxy goggle replacements might also be good for making small groundglasses. |
January 26th, 2004, 11:39 AM | #867 |
Major Player
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Guatemala
Posts: 322
|
Wow !! pretty amazing...
Could you perform, more test, to see if there is actually any grain ? So if you built a Agus35 with a glass cd, gritted with alluminiun oxide, and the discs spins a little there will be no trouble at all.
__________________
Agus35 - the ultimate tool for indie DV filmakers - |
January 26th, 2004, 12:49 PM | #868 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 64
|
Can someone please describe this 5-7 hour grinding process in detail? Also what kind of store would carry various grades of aluminum oxide? or is the only place to order it online?
__________________
Noah Posnick http://www.posnick.com |
January 26th, 2004, 01:13 PM | #869 |
Major Player
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Poplarville, MS
Posts: 453
|
Noah, I'm in the same boat. (Ha ha!)
I have been calling local stores here such as hardware suppliers, hobby shops, and camera stores and nobody has the stuff. The closest thing was some 200 something grit at a hardware store. It looks as though online is my only option. As far as the process, you can do a search at Google and find all sorts of results. The average process is this: - Lay down a large piece of glass. - Mix a spoonfull of aluminum oxide with a bit of water (enough to give a paste-like consistency) - Take your smaller glass-to-be-ground and cover one side with masking tape (for protection and better grip) - Now rub the smaller glass over the paste, which is spread on the bigger glass. - The rubbing is done in circular motions, adding water as it gets tougher to rub. That seems to be about it. I've never done this, but I offer this summary of all the pages I have looked at over these last two days. Hope this helps. ,Frank |
January 26th, 2004, 01:25 PM | #870 |
Regular Crew
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 86
|
Agus
Here is another shot. http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/test2.wmv There is no grain. I don't see a reason why to spin the glass. And the design is pretty easy. The only thing here is that the image are compress and a bit wash out ,What come out of my Video camera is better. But if you have any specific test that I can do just ask me and I will try it. Alain |
| ||||||
|
|