December 8th, 2003, 08:58 AM | #181 |
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December 8th, 2003, 10:45 AM | #182 |
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<<<-- Originally posted by Devin Doyle :
We were thinking more along the lines of a bayonet mount (for those of us that have lens hoods). We tried looking for a place that sells the lens hood alone for the GL1/VX2K, but alas, no dice. I think it's an important issuse, I'd like to hear what others have to say - esp. those that don't have a bayonet mount. How do you do it Agus? -->>> I use a metal piece that connects to the tripod hole in the camera, so the whole piece is more stable |
December 8th, 2003, 10:48 AM | #183 |
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<<<-- Originally posted by Peter Sciretta : Got mine working... it is VERY shakey. I plan on building a better model that won't shake as much next. the DOF is great. I wish I could flip/reverse the image rather than do it in post.... -->>>
If it is shakey, the GG could be centered, but not aligned, so it moves back and forward a little, try to correct that. Congrats... So if i am not mistaken, there should be like 6 Agus35 adapters built this far and that we know because of the thread? |
December 8th, 2003, 10:56 AM | #184 |
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<<<-- Originally posted by Agus Casse :
So if i am not mistaken, there should be like 6 Agus35 adapters built this far and that we know because of the thread? -->>> 7 if you count the one I'm trying to build. I found this piece of ground glass that I'll have to get cut: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2968796829&category=29981&rd=1 And two spare Nikon mount flanges: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2969208892&category=4702&rd=1 So now its just a matter of trying to figure out how to rig the thing with my dvx100. I have a brother who is a CNC machinist who may help me out on this. |
December 8th, 2003, 11:00 AM | #185 |
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try to make a metal skeleton from the camera to the adapter
BTW those rings looks beatiful, but how is that you will lock your lens ? you need a release button like the SLR camera have. i am about to post some footage, but i am low in webspace... |
December 8th, 2003, 11:59 AM | #186 |
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<<<-- Originally posted by Agus Casse : try to make a metal skeleton from the camera to the adapter
BTW those rings looks beatiful, but how is that you will lock your lens ? you need a release button like the SLR camera have. i am about to post some footage, but i am low in webspace... -->>> If I'm not mistaken the relase button is actually on the lens, not the camera. |
December 8th, 2003, 12:00 PM | #187 |
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not on my minolta lens, you release them from the camera.
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December 8th, 2003, 12:01 PM | #188 |
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<<<-- Originally posted by Agus Casse : not on my minolta lens, you release them from the camera. -->>>
You're right...maybe I'll have to tear apart an old Nikon F body camera and rig it that way. |
December 8th, 2003, 12:05 PM | #189 |
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yeah, watch out for the weight...
i think i will start experimenting with some metal rods... |
December 8th, 2003, 12:34 PM | #190 |
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I'm about 1/2 way done my Agus35 Pro :)
I picked up a black "project box" from Radio Shack yesterday ($6.99), and a few other miscelanea...a switch, some wire, 9v batteries, a 9v battery clasp, etc. I spent about $18 total. Then I went to Home Depot and picked up some epoxy ($5), a length of scrap 1/2inch PVC piping (for support rails - $0), a velcro strap ($5), and to attach the camera to the Agus35, a 3"-3" adjustable pipe coupling ($5). I've got the other parts here already - an old Sony disc man, a clear CD from a spindle, and an array of cutting/drilling tools. Incidently - if you plan on making more than one of these things, there are 54 and 57mm diameter dremel bits at Home Depot, that fit into a standard drill. Might be perfect for lens mounts. The Radio Shack project box (dimensions: 8x6x3 inches; fitted back) is the perfect thickness for lens mounting - you just cut a hole the size of your lens, cutting notches where the lens pops in, and give it a twist - presto! Preliminary pics: http://ideaspora.net/box-front.jpg http://ideaspora.net/inside-rear.jpg Agus - email me if you need server space for footage. I've got a dedicated server with room to host plenty. - jim |
December 8th, 2003, 12:49 PM | #191 |
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Kool, Jim, you got a big box there :) ... so pro ah ! kool
Do you use MSN messenger ? you can contact me at kamicasse@hotmail.com if you have any doubts that i could help, btw.. nice drilling.. .almost perfect and the lens fit and kinda of lock up... right ? |
December 8th, 2003, 01:43 PM | #192 |
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Yeah, the lens mount worked out OK, I guess. Little rough around the edges, but...it does lock into place.
Bob, over at Indieclub.com, advised using a F-to-C mount adapter to mount the lenses. You wound then just have to mill a hole in your adapter box and then you could switch lenses freely. He also suggested using a chroziel matte box to connect the camera to the unit. Here's an F-C mount from Century Optics, costing $60. Here's the link to the thread I've started, including Bob's advice. - jim |
December 8th, 2003, 01:54 PM | #193 |
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I some people have been concerned with flipping the image in post. Maybe you could build an adapter that would "hold" the camera upside down??? Would this work??? Agus, have you tried this? I realize that you would not have accessibility to all controls, but as I understand it you get the camcorder dialed in and leave it alone....just thinking out loud....
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December 8th, 2003, 02:10 PM | #194 |
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That is the most ridiculous, absurd, WONDERFUL idea I think I've ever heard -- just mount the camera upside-down! That might actually work! And it'd give you a hair better picture quality because you'd eliminate the need for mirrors and prisms!
You'd have to use an external monitor, because your LCD and viewfinder would now be upside down, but that is a cool idea! You'd also have to rig up a mounting system so you still had a tripod socket, etc... Not sure I'd want to show up in front of a client with it, but for guerilla indie filmmaking, that kind of thinking is the bomb! |
December 8th, 2003, 02:20 PM | #195 |
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Here is a tip for those that have too much trouble shooting inverted... flip a little the lcd screen just after it turns to mirror mode, in that way you will be able to get a corrected image.
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