Internal VX-2000 mic is toast, now what? at DVinfo.net

Mike Hanlon · February 6th, 2006, 12:05 PM

In another thread I was lamenting the breakdown of my VX-2000 intermal mic as it has become a fantastic 60Hz electrical field detector. The flat rate for Sony to fix the camera is $516, which is a big fraction of what its worth, so I am considering cheaper alternatives.

Since the mic input is still okay, perhaps an inexpensive external mic would be a cost effective solution. I immediately thought of the Azden SGM-X series, but I don't have any first hand experience with those.

I think I want to stay below $200, including shock mount.

Any recommendations?

Thanks for the help.

Mike.

Michael Wisniewski · February 6th, 2006, 12:19 PM

Below US$200 with shockmount: Rode Videomic
Next step up is ~US$300 with shockmount: Rode NTG-2 or AT897

Steve House · February 6th, 2006, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Hanlon

...

Since the mic input is still okay, perhaps an inexpensive external mic would be a cost effective solution. I immediately thought of the Azden SGM-X series, but I don't have any first hand experience with those.

...

While I can't claim direct experience, I've yet to hear any good reports about Azden mics. Rode, OTOH, and A/T have some very good offerings at reasonable prices.

David Ennis · February 6th, 2006, 03:20 PM

The mics mentioned above by Michael are good ones, but be aware that they are mono and directional, unlike the Sony's mic. If you just wanted to duplicate the functionality you've lost, there are shoe mount Sony stereo mics in the $100 range. Search on "sony microphone" at B&H (bhphotovideo.com)

Greg Bellotte · February 6th, 2006, 09:07 PM

not that i usually recommend diving into your $2000 camera, but my vx-2000 mic malfunctioned to. like you said it made a good 60Hz generator. cautiously i disassembled the mic and handle to find that there is a very small film/ribbon that connects the mic head to the circuits below the handle. after reseating these connections my mic now works fine.

Mike Hanlon · February 7th, 2006, 03:20 PM

Greg,
I tried the disassmbly idea, but didn't get very far. I removed screws (2) from the external mic input area, (1) on the opposite side, (2) from the top of the handle, (4) at the base of the handle, but that wasn't enough to get the handle off or get the handle to come apart. There was one screw underneath the mic that I couldn't get a screwdriver on.

I'm very willing to have another go, but need some guidance on the disassembly if you would be willing.

Thanks,
Mike.

Greg Bellotte · February 7th, 2006, 05:12 PM

ready for this?? this is NOT for the faint of heart-you could really mess up your cam-proceed at your own risk...that said...

first remove the battery. NEVER work on a camera with a power source attached. hopefully you'll get what i will describe. i'd post pictures but someone is likely to faint... :-)

before you go on, put the two screws near the ext mic input back in. you wont need to remove these and the little switch thingy is a pain to put back in if you do. (my pain, your gain!)

remove the handle assembly. this isn't absolutely necessary, but i found it to facilitate the rest without my camera body in the way. remove two screws at base of back of handle. remove silver screw next to batt release button. flip viewfinder eyepeice straight up, remove screw on left wall near top of batt cavity (silver arrow next to it). remove two screws under front of handle on top of lens barrel. GENTLY lift handle up from body, disconnect ribbon cable from bottom of handle assembly. set body aside. pat sweat from forhead. :-)

next remove the two screws on top of the handle. lift just behind the hot shoe and rotate back to remove top piece of handle. remove the screw between the mic and handle on left side (lcd side) and the screw in the very front face of the handle under the mic. pull this piece straight off to the left. now remove the two screws holding the hotshoe and move aside or disconnect. the ribbon this exposes is the cable to the microphone and front ir reciever. CAREFULLY pry up the little black piece to release, and the ribbon will come out. reseating this connection is what fixed mine. it was pulled out a bit. if not fixed yet, read on...

with the ribbon cable disconnected, you can now remove the mic assembly by sliding the mic's rubber bushing sideways to the left. remove the screw on the bottom (that you couldn't get to before) and pull the front housing off. be careful, there is a catch opposite the screw. remove the two screws in the rear, and then pull the mic elements out of the rear bushing. the cable needs to slip through the bushing to do this. note bushing orientation before you remove it (easily goes the other way, but wont mate to the handle on reassembly). they can be seperated to reveal the other end of the ribbon cable (and the cheapness of the mic elements!). pull out the black retainer and make sure the ribbon is fully inserted, then push the retainer back in.

put it all back together and with any luck it will work again. good luck!!

Boyd Ostroff · February 7th, 2006, 05:49 PM

Sometimes a picture helps. Go to Sony's parts website and enter DCRVX2000 in the model number box:

https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/sony-parts.aspx

Click on your version of the camera, then choose exploded views from the menu and pick the handle section. Click on the document icon in the column on the right and you'll get an exploded view which shows the parts. You could also order replacement parts there if desired.

And you might also find this interesting... or terrifying ;-)

http://www.camcorderservice.nl/indexvx2000.htm

Mike Hanlon · February 7th, 2006, 06:35 PM

I am again impressed (and grateful) to this board and those who participate here. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help out a fellow video nut-case.

Looking forward to getting home and making the parts fly. I'll let you know how it goes.

Sincerely,
Mike.

Mike Hanlon · February 7th, 2006, 11:39 PM

Success!

But my problem turned out yo be further up the line. I first tried the flex cable connector as Greg suggested, but that didn't do it. I tried the other connectors in the handle as well, working my way one by one toward the main connector the ties the handle to the body. No luck. So I worked the other direction, toward the mic elements themselves, removing the IR/tally light board (nope), then disconnecting both mic elements to see if it was the little board that they connected to that had failed. All quiet, so I knew that board was okay. Only one thing left to try, reconnecting the right element (sounds clean) then the left. Still clean!

Must have been one of the two mic connectors that merely needed to be reseated.

Got it all put back together and no left over screws. Priceless.

[Note: If you try this, be mindful of fine thread machine screws vs. course thread screws for plastic. The three screws that hold the mic head together are the course type, the rest are machine type.]

Thanks again to Boyd and especially to Greg. I owe you guys a beer or two for sure.

Mike.

Greg Bellotte · February 8th, 2006, 11:48 AM

Glad it worked. But this much effort for a microphone makes you more of an audio nut-case than a video nut-case! I highly approve, the world needs more hum-heads.

For future reference, the beer here in Utah blows. I'm more of a Captain drinker. :-) Arrrrrrrrrr!! Glad to help...

Steve House · February 8th, 2006, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Bellotte

...

For future reference, the beer here in Utah blows. I'm more of a Captain drinker. :-) Arrrrrrrrrr!! Glad to help...

LOL Used to live in SLC and finding the good stuff is very frustrating - come up to Canada and try some of our finest! I'm particularly partial to "Maudite" and "Le Fin du Monde" - about 10% alcohol and still on the lees. Also great on a hot summer day - "Crest Extra Strong" lager from England - about 12%. YUM

Douglas Spotted Eagle · February 8th, 2006, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Bellotte

Glad it worked. But this much effort for a microphone makes you more of an audio nut-case than a video nut-case! I highly approve, the world needs more hum-heads.

For future reference, the beer here in Utah blows. I'm more of a Captain drinker. :-) Arrrrrrrrrr!! Glad to help...

Hey! That's not true. Porter Rockwell beer is good, so is Red Rocks, and the stuff that comes out of Moab is to die for. You just don't go to the right places, Greg. :-)
Also, check out Tracks in Tooele. They have a terrific micro brewery.

February 6th, 2006, 12:05 PM	#1
Mike Hanlon Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 180	Internal VX-2000 mic is toast, now what? In another thread I was lamenting the breakdown of my VX-2000 intermal mic as it has become a fantastic 60Hz electrical field detector. The flat rate for Sony to fix the camera is $516, which is a big fraction of what its worth, so I am considering cheaper alternatives. Since the mic input is still okay, perhaps an inexpensive external mic would be a cost effective solution. I immediately thought of the Azden SGM-X series, but I don't have any first hand experience with those. I think I want to stay below $200, including shock mount. Any recommendations? Thanks for the help. Mike. __________________ VM Productions

February 6th, 2006, 12:19 PM	#2
Michael Wisniewski Wrangler Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Makati, Metro Manila Posts: 2,706 Images: 32	Below US$200 with shockmount: Rode Videomic Next step up is ~US$300 with shockmount: Rode NTG-2 or AT897 __________________ "Ultimately, the most extraordinary thing, in a frame, is a human being." - Martin Scorsese

February 6th, 2006, 03:20 PM	#4
David Ennis Fred Retread Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Hartford, CT Posts: 1,227	The mics mentioned above by Michael are good ones, but be aware that they are mono and directional, unlike the Sony's mic. If you just wanted to duplicate the functionality you've lost, there are shoe mount Sony stereo mics in the $100 range. Search on "sony microphone" at B&H (bhphotovideo.com) __________________ "Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence..." - Calvin Coolidge "My brain is wired to want to know how other things are wired." - Me

February 7th, 2006, 03:20 PM	#6
Mike Hanlon Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 180	Greg, I tried the disassmbly idea, but didn't get very far. I removed screws (2) from the external mic input area, (1) on the opposite side, (2) from the top of the handle, (4) at the base of the handle, but that wasn't enough to get the handle off or get the handle to come apart. There was one screw underneath the mic that I couldn't get a screwdriver on. I'm very willing to have another go, but need some guidance on the disassembly if you would be willing. Thanks, Mike. __________________ VM Productions

February 7th, 2006, 06:35 PM	#9
Mike Hanlon Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 180	I am again impressed (and grateful) to this board and those who participate here. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help out a fellow video nut-case. Looking forward to getting home and making the parts fly. I'll let you know how it goes. Sincerely, Mike. __________________ VM Productions

February 6th, 2006, 09:07 PM	#5
Greg Bellotte Major Player Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 291	not that i usually recommend diving into your $2000 camera, but my vx-2000 mic malfunctioned to. like you said it made a good 60Hz generator. cautiously i disassembled the mic and handle to find that there is a very small film/ribbon that connects the mic head to the circuits below the handle. after reseating these connections my mic now works fine.

February 7th, 2006, 05:12 PM	#7
Greg Bellotte Major Player Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 291	ready for this?? this is NOT for the faint of heart-you could really mess up your cam-proceed at your own risk...that said... first remove the battery. NEVER work on a camera with a power source attached. hopefully you'll get what i will describe. i'd post pictures but someone is likely to faint... :-) before you go on, put the two screws near the ext mic input back in. you wont need to remove these and the little switch thingy is a pain to put back in if you do. (my pain, your gain!) remove the handle assembly. this isn't absolutely necessary, but i found it to facilitate the rest without my camera body in the way. remove two screws at base of back of handle. remove silver screw next to batt release button. flip viewfinder eyepeice straight up, remove screw on left wall near top of batt cavity (silver arrow next to it). remove two screws under front of handle on top of lens barrel. GENTLY lift handle up from body, disconnect ribbon cable from bottom of handle assembly. set body aside. pat sweat from forhead. :-) next remove the two screws on top of the handle. lift just behind the hot shoe and rotate back to remove top piece of handle. remove the screw between the mic and handle on left side (lcd side) and the screw in the very front face of the handle under the mic. pull this piece straight off to the left. now remove the two screws holding the hotshoe and move aside or disconnect. the ribbon this exposes is the cable to the microphone and front ir reciever. CAREFULLY pry up the little black piece to release, and the ribbon will come out. reseating this connection is what fixed mine. it was pulled out a bit. if not fixed yet, read on... with the ribbon cable disconnected, you can now remove the mic assembly by sliding the mic's rubber bushing sideways to the left. remove the screw on the bottom (that you couldn't get to before) and pull the front housing off. be careful, there is a catch opposite the screw. remove the two screws in the rear, and then pull the mic elements out of the rear bushing. the cable needs to slip through the bushing to do this. note bushing orientation before you remove it (easily goes the other way, but wont mate to the handle on reassembly). they can be seperated to reveal the other end of the ribbon cable (and the cheapness of the mic elements!). pull out the black retainer and make sure the ribbon is fully inserted, then push the retainer back in. put it all back together and with any luck it will work again. good luck!!

February 7th, 2006, 05:49 PM	#8
Boyd Ostroff Wrangler Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Mays Landing, NJ Posts: 11,802	Sometimes a picture helps. Go to Sony's parts website and enter DCRVX2000 in the model number box: https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/sony-parts.aspx Click on your version of the camera, then choose exploded views from the menu and pick the handle section. Click on the document icon in the column on the right and you'll get an exploded view which shows the parts. You could also order replacement parts there if desired. And you might also find this interesting... or terrifying ;-) http://www.camcorderservice.nl/indexvx2000.htm

February 7th, 2006, 11:39 PM	#10
Mike Hanlon Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 180	Success! But my problem turned out yo be further up the line. I first tried the flex cable connector as Greg suggested, but that didn't do it. I tried the other connectors in the handle as well, working my way one by one toward the main connector the ties the handle to the body. No luck. So I worked the other direction, toward the mic elements themselves, removing the IR/tally light board (nope), then disconnecting both mic elements to see if it was the little board that they connected to that had failed. All quiet, so I knew that board was okay. Only one thing left to try, reconnecting the right element (sounds clean) then the left. Still clean! Must have been one of the two mic connectors that merely needed to be reseated. Got it all put back together and no left over screws. Priceless. [Note: If you try this, be mindful of fine thread machine screws vs. course thread screws for plastic. The three screws that hold the mic head together are the course type, the rest are machine type.] Thanks again to Boyd and especially to Greg. I owe you guys a beer or two for sure. Mike. __________________ VM Productions

February 8th, 2006, 11:48 AM	#11
Greg Bellotte Major Player Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 291	Glad it worked. But this much effort for a microphone makes you more of an audio nut-case than a video nut-case! I highly approve, the world needs more hum-heads. For future reference, the beer here in Utah blows. I'm more of a Captain drinker. :-) Arrrrrrrrrr!! Glad to help...