Schoeps cmc6 capsule for indoor dialogue recording: mk41g or mk41v?

Spencer Dickson · June 27th, 2008, 01:35 PM

So, provided there is not much extraneous noise from the indoor location, I can use the mic bare?

Could you post a link to a page displaying the Rycote 350? I can't seem to find one. With the cut1, I don't think the mic system exceeds 7 inches, so the 300 would be the right one.

Steve Oakley · June 27th, 2008, 01:58 PM

normally when you buy the mic as a set ( CMC6 + cap ) they give you a basic mic clip and the teardrop shaped pop screen. that works ok indoors if there is no air handling and you aren't swinging around a lot. next step up is one of the round ball screens which go from a single solid foam to a hollow 2 layer foam to the cage style one.

try trewaudio.com to look... or I guess B&H

Steve House · June 27th, 2008, 04:46 PM

You don't say where in Canada you are, Spencer, but if you're near Toronto or Vancouver, Trew Audio has stores in both cities and I'm sure they'd be more than happy to help you sort out the best kit. The guys in Toronto have always treated me well.

Spencer Dickson · June 27th, 2008, 10:57 PM

I talked to a guy at Trew Audio in Vancouver for like half an hour yesterday. Great guy. Really knowledgeable and helpful. Though I Ordered the Schoeps mic from another company, I think I will try to get a boom pole and a Rycote mount from them.

BTW, does anyone know what cables I will need? Just basic XLR cable, or some high-tech expensive type?

Dan Keaton · June 28th, 2008, 12:40 AM

Dear Spencer,

Personally, I would recommend that you stay away from the cheap cables.

The problem is that with the cheap cables it is hard to know exactly what you are getting.

Most any xlr cable, as long as it is a microphone cable, will work in non-demanding situations. But, on set you may run into a lot of electrical power cables and an electrically noisy environment. This is where the better cables will pay off in spades.

The better cables have much better shielding and / or more layers of shielding. Good brands of cable are Canare and Mogami and there are other good brands.

Also, the better cables have better quality connectors. I like the Neutrik XLR connectors, which usually come with gold pins (but can be obtained without gold).

Personally, I like to order my cables from a reputable audio dealer.

A lot of dealers like to build their own cables using Canare StarQuad cable using Neutrik black connectors with gold pins. (Some audio experts like to use StarQuad cables in their studios and different cables in the field.)

I see no need to spend ridiculous amounts of money on XLR cables. Ask your audio dealer for advice. I believe I spent around $30 (a few years ago) on good 25 cables and a little more on 50' ones. These were for Canare StarQuad / Neutrik cables. I have not checked current prices.

Be advised that there is a proper and a wrong way to wind a microphone cable.

Do not wind it on your arm as if it was an electrical power cord. The proper technique uses and over and under motion which is hard to explain in writing, but helps preserve the integrity of the shielding of the cable. This is a good technique to learn.

Also, never run your mic cables parallel to electrical power cables. You can cross the cable, but do not run it along side of the cable.

Steve House · June 28th, 2008, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spencer Dickson

I talked to a guy at Trew Audio in Vancouver for like half an hour yesterday. Great guy. Really knowledgeable and helpful. Though I Ordered the Schoeps mic from another company, I think I will try to get a boom pole and a Rycote mount from them.

BTW, does anyone know what cables I will need? Just basic XLR cable, or some high-tech expensive type?

Well built conventional cables are all that you need. Neutrik or Switchcraft connectors and cable fom Canare, Mogami, or Belden generally are the most solid. Starquad, or just plain quad, cable for maximum noise immunity. The really expensive cables like Monster cable and "high-tech" exotic cables are mostly marketing hype directed at "audiophiles" who have more money than brains - would you believe there are idiots out there who will pay more than 5 grand for a freakin' 6-foot AC line cord?!

Spencer Dickson · June 28th, 2008, 02:51 AM

Steve, 6 grand?! I don't believe you. Haha. (Seriously? 6 grand?)

Dan, I do know about the over and under technique...I use it on all of my cables. You are right; it is hard to explain in writing.

I guess the guys at Trew will advise me on which specific cables to buy.

Steve House · June 28th, 2008, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spencer Dickson

Steve, 6 grand?! I don't believe you. Haha. (Seriously? 6 grand?)

...
I guess the guys at Trew will advise me on which specific cables to buy.

I kid you not. Was looking for the link for the 6 kilobuck one I saw a few months ago and couldn't locate it but a google on "audiophile ac mains cable" will turn up a raft of 'em between $500 and $3000.

You are using a Sound Devices 442, right? In addition to a variety of lengths of straight XLRM-XLRF microphone cables, I'd suggest you also get a "betacam breakaway snake" wired for the 442. That is a multi-conductor cable that plugs into the mixer's 10-pin Hirose connector and goes to the camera with an in-line connector near one end that lets you break it in two when you're moving setups. (That way you don't accidently jerk a camera off its sticks or put a lot of strain and wear on the expensive-to-replace mixer and camera connectors by continually plugging and unplugging them throughout the course of a shooting day.) The camera end has L & R XLR main outs to connect to the camera audio input, a stereo 1/8 mini to plug into the camera's headphone output to send monitor audio back to the mixer, and a female 1/8 stereo jack on a pigtail to let the camera op jack in his headphones as well. While you're at it, you might also want to get the breakaway extension cable as well - the basic cable is about 25 feet and adding the extension takes it out to about 50. Also get a short XLRF to male 1/8 mini pigtail for your kit to connect to cameras that don't have XLR audio inputs -Trew has 'em as both stereo and mono "DV Cam Adapter Cables" by Remote Audio (same company) that include the proper DC mic power blocking capactors . Some cheaper adapters on the market are miswired and don't have the caps.

June 27th, 2008, 04:46 PM	#18
Steve House Inner Circle Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,742	You don't say where in Canada you are, Spencer, but if you're near Toronto or Vancouver, Trew Audio has stores in both cities and I'm sure they'd be more than happy to help you sort out the best kit. The guys in Toronto have always treated me well. __________________ Good news, Cousins! This week's chocolate ration is 15 grams!

June 28th, 2008, 12:40 AM	#20
Dan Keaton Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Augusta Georgia Posts: 5,421	Dear Spencer, Personally, I would recommend that you stay away from the cheap cables. The problem is that with the cheap cables it is hard to know exactly what you are getting. Most any xlr cable, as long as it is a microphone cable, will work in non-demanding situations. But, on set you may run into a lot of electrical power cables and an electrically noisy environment. This is where the better cables will pay off in spades. The better cables have much better shielding and / or more layers of shielding. Good brands of cable are Canare and Mogami and there are other good brands. Also, the better cables have better quality connectors. I like the Neutrik XLR connectors, which usually come with gold pins (but can be obtained without gold). Personally, I like to order my cables from a reputable audio dealer. A lot of dealers like to build their own cables using Canare StarQuad cable using Neutrik black connectors with gold pins. (Some audio experts like to use StarQuad cables in their studios and different cables in the field.) I see no need to spend ridiculous amounts of money on XLR cables. Ask your audio dealer for advice. I believe I spent around $30 (a few years ago) on good 25 cables and a little more on 50' ones. These were for Canare StarQuad / Neutrik cables. I have not checked current prices. Be advised that there is a proper and a wrong way to wind a microphone cable. Do not wind it on your arm as if it was an electrical power cord. The proper technique uses and over and under motion which is hard to explain in writing, but helps preserve the integrity of the shielding of the cable. This is a good technique to learn. Also, never run your mic cables parallel to electrical power cables. You can cross the cable, but do not run it along side of the cable. __________________ Dan Keaton Augusta Georgia

June 27th, 2008, 01:35 PM	#16
Spencer Dickson Regular Crew Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 141	So, provided there is not much extraneous noise from the indoor location, I can use the mic bare? Could you post a link to a page displaying the Rycote 350? I can't seem to find one. With the cut1, I don't think the mic system exceeds 7 inches, so the 300 would be the right one.

June 27th, 2008, 01:58 PM	#17
Steve Oakley Trustee Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: United States Posts: 1,158	normally when you buy the mic as a set ( CMC6 + cap ) they give you a basic mic clip and the teardrop shaped pop screen. that works ok indoors if there is no air handling and you aren't swinging around a lot. next step up is one of the round ball screens which go from a single solid foam to a hollow 2 layer foam to the cage style one. try trewaudio.com to look... or I guess B&H

June 27th, 2008, 10:57 PM	#19
Spencer Dickson Regular Crew Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 141	I talked to a guy at Trew Audio in Vancouver for like half an hour yesterday. Great guy. Really knowledgeable and helpful. Though I Ordered the Schoeps mic from another company, I think I will try to get a boom pole and a Rycote mount from them. BTW, does anyone know what cables I will need? Just basic XLR cable, or some high-tech expensive type?

June 28th, 2008, 02:51 AM	#22
Spencer Dickson Regular Crew Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 141	Steve, 6 grand?! I don't believe you. Haha. (Seriously? 6 grand?) Dan, I do know about the over and under technique...I use it on all of my cables. You are right; it is hard to explain in writing. I guess the guys at Trew will advise me on which specific cables to buy.