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Steven, yes, I know what you mean about not wanting to play with electricity. I've found that many manufacturers don't want to be too specific because they want you to buy their product, not that of a competitor. BTW, the Pilot (VLB) got the following review on the B & H website: Cons: Not durable, Weak Construction Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this to a friend Too many plastic parts in high traffic places. I would have paid extra for a better thought process on durability issues. You have to be very careful with this unit. But does the job. Anyone agree/disagree with the review, above? |
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One thing that probably will wear out over time is the Velcro straps on the vest. I'm pretty sure you can order replacement straps, but I'll have to check on that. To be clear, the Velcro that's sewn into the vest (hook side) will probably last a long time, but the removable Velcro straps (loop side) seem like they might wear out sooner. But overall, the Pilot seems extremely well designed and put together, so I have no idea why the reviewer on the BH VLB page thinks it will wear out quickly. |
Looking at purchasing a pilot system with either ABs or VL batteries.
I currently do not own either system as am only shooting on an HVX. Are there any advantages to buying either batteries when it comes to the pilot (im doubting it). But i thought i'd ask. Am currently looking more towards AB's as im a bit of a panasonic fan boy and all their big cameras use AB's so might be the right battery system to invest in. |
That review is way too harsh. Of course you will have to be careful with it. I handle all my gear like a baby anyway. Joe I use the Swit 8080s batteries for my Pilot with a single charger (VL). Why? cheaper.
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Yea, im going to go in and get some prices on swit systems today, ive got a couple of their little batt's for my HVX and they last a long time.
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-- Begin Quote -- The FS products have the following DC power requirements for the DC port on the bottom. --12V DC min to 20V DC max = Voltage Range --12V DC = Voltage will run the FS --14V DC = will charge the battery as well as power. (So it is preferred) --The input DC connector is Tip Positive. --2.5MM size -- End Quote -- So, it would seem a pretty trivial task to make up a fused power cable from the IDX battery to the FS-C and have the battery run both the monitor and the FS-C. This seems like a good solution. I'd expect to get several hours out of the the IDX batteries while running the FS-C and the Pilot's monitor, and you get 2 IDX batteries with the Pilot. |
Excellent review of the Steadicam Pilot here:
http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/camsu...icampilot1.php |
Excellent review indeed. Thanks for posting the link, I've been waiting (impatiently) for it!
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But it's obvious that taking the middle straps on and off a lot wears out the Velcro, so I ordered 2 extra straps as backup. These are Tiffen part # 801-7812, $32 each (22"x2" Velcro straps for middle chest area of Pilot/Merlin vest). Hope this helps. |
Can I power EX1 from Pilot batteries?
I know that guys have been trying to power f.store from VL battery power, but I wonder if anybody tried to power the camera from the pilot battery, I have VL (IDX) version, and one battery is good for powering just a monitor for about 6 hours, I'd be happy if I could power EX1 from the same battery, even if it'll be just a couple hours, but the thing is E-7S batteries are 14.4v and the EX1 takes 12v, does that make it too complicated?
any thoughts would be really helpful. |
The standard Sony BP-U30 and U60 batteries for the EX1 are nominally 14.4 just like the E-7S. You should have no problem powering the EX1 from that battery.
Thanks to the push-on power connectors on both the Pilot and the EX1, this would be a very simple cable to connect the two. I'm not sure if anyone is making them yet (Tiffen should be) but if you had access to a half-decent electronics store that has a variety of those connectors, it would be an easy home-build cable if you have the inclination. |
wow, that would be awesome, thank you Charles,
I'm not a very handy man, so probably I will get a professional help, will post the results :) |
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Love the use of those two words, CP ;) HA HA |
Steadicam newbie practice partners
Any Steadicam newbies looking to pair up with another Steadicam newbie for a practice partner, see here:
SteadicamForum.com - A Community of Motion Picture Camera Stabilization Specialists |
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wasn't too complicated and it works great, got the sony 12v power adapter from ebay, cut the connector, soldered with the one that came with the pilot, wow I am a handy man :) Sunday have to shoot, will check for how long EX1 and the monitor will run on fully charged E-7S |
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sent you an email with the link, I don't have EX3, but I'm 99% sure it has the same as EX1 power connector, did some shooting today, powered EX1 and the pilot monitor from the same E-7S, after 3 hrs non sop, battery still shows like 60%, (two lights out of three) not too bad :) |
Use BNC or Video Out Connector on XH-A1?
The photos on Charles Papert's review of the Steadicam Pilot appear to show the BNC connector on the XH-A1 connected to the Pilot's monitor input. Is this how everyone else connects up the monitor, or do you go via the video-out plug on the back of the camera? Is there a benefit to using one over the other? Is the BNC wired the same as the video-out plug (basically tip to tip, ring to ring)?
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bump..........
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After adding a new accessory to my camera i of course had to readjust my balance. When i was playing with the stage adjustment i heard what sounded ALOT like sand or dirt in a lens.. we all know the sound.
I thought at first that somehow i'd managed to get along the back and forward and side to side adjustment tracks on the stage.. upon taking the top plate off the stage i discovered it was actually the screw that was holding my Manfrotto QR plate that was the problem. The bottom of it, where the slot for your flathead screwdriver goes into was rubbing against the where the top of the post meets the stage.. No real damage has been done apart from a couple scratches so all good. I went back and found the screw that came with the pilot and noticed that the flat part is a lot thinner than the one that came with my QR plate.. i didnt use the pilot one because it was too short to screw all the way up into the manfrotto plate. So time to find a replacement. Just thought i'd post this up incase anyone comes across this in the future.. |
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When I first got the Pilot I was using a smaller DV camera, so I added a weight plate under the camera to make it fly better. I used a longer 1/4-20 screw to go through the weight plate into the camera. The longer 1/4-20 screw had a round head, so it ended up scraping against the inner part of the stage. I solved the problem by filing down the head, and then carefully removing all the metal filings with a shop-vac. No permanent damage, but you can still see some cosmetic scratches when the top plate of the Pilot is removed. Now I have an HVX, but I still end up adding extra weights to the stage to make it fly better: Steadicam | 801-7920-05 Middle Balance Weight (click on the attached photo below). |
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Speaking of camera tie-down screws, I found an excellent screwdriver for this at Home Depot for only $6:
Husky 5/16 In. x 1-3/4 In. Slotted Screwdriver Every camera operator should have at least one of these... |
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Just took my screw and put it in a lathe.. now it works perfectly! cheers
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The very first thing I bought for my own kit (was still using a rental rig) was a mega-screwdriver with a wide bit like the one Dave illustrates but about twice as long. Many cameras back then only had a single mounting point so you had to tighten the crap out of them to keep them from rotating on you. I went for the longest one I could find to maximize torque. This sucker was menacing. On the pilot of "Scrubs", there was a scene where the Janitor threatens Zach Braff's character with a big screwdriver. The one that the prop department provided was not nearly as imposing so I offered mine up (see it in action here, about :30 into the clip). Towards the end of the first season, that scene was called back with a new intern arriving at the hospital, and the screwdriver made its second appearance on network TV. Too bad it didn't get residuals. The story has a tragic end; not long after this my old friend disappeared from my frontbox. Petty thievery brought an end to our long working relationship. Craftsman Big-Ass Screwdriver: 1988-2002. RIP. |
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bump..........
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Dave, this thread is a nice resource that has received good responses so I have stickied it. Mazel tov.
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Great thread! Answered a lot of my questions :).
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I found something in my local hardware store to help stop the camera moving about on the stage.
In the UK in B&Q you can get Draper Slip Mat. Its like a thin, rubbery, foam like substance which feels tacky (sticky). A slice of this under your quickrelease plate (or camera) and it wont budge an inch. I got a roll of it for about £5 although you only need a small ammount, used the rest on my dash board and rugs :) |
How many mid weights should I buy if I'm flying a Xh-A1 and plan to later fly an EX-1? Would 2 be enough?
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Steadicam 801-7920-05 Balance Weights, Steadicam |
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XHA1 with 35mm Adapter
Has anyone tried using the Pilot with an XHA1 and Letus 35mm adapter? Can it still handle the weight when using a long lens, eg. 300mm f4, approx. 3lbs? Not sure what the entire rig would weigh as I don't currently have an adapter, both it and a stabilizer are on my shopping list, just trying to determine which stabilizer.
Thanks, Rich. Montauk Rocks - Oscail Films |
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http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/stabilize...f-adapter.html |
What exactly were you thinking to shoot at 300mm on any type of Steadicam...?!!
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