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I don't see any provision to put gels on these so you're going to be in a spot if you ever need to balance them to daylight. There doesn't seem to be a way to attach anything at all to the light, execpt maybe an umbrella somehow so you're going to have a tough time controlling any spill. So while these will have some use, it will be somewhat limited, and frankly a used Fresnel would have probably paid better dividends. But hey, sometimes you get what you can get. |
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Also Maybe I'm wrong but don't the holders for the gels and filters connect to attachents on the stands as well? Maybe I did mess up. |
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However, these SV Broads should light the HECK out of some white walls! You'll be fine there. |
Thanks PF (hope you don't mind me calling you that).
Also, I'm looking into an Omni flood light rig. What do you think about kino flows and I heard someone mention DP lights? I'm planning on going to B&H here to look at the Lowells they have as well. Also, I'm thinking of just sticking with 1000w lights. Should I go higher? The guy that sold me the SV's said he has 500w bulbs and 1000w bulbs. I bought a set of each. Been toying the the DVX at home to see how just a 75w bulb lights. I need a DP sheesh! |
You'll find lights are like cameras. They all light, but they go about it differently, and there is no one light for all scenarios.
You'll also learn that rating lights by watts is useless. It tells you nothing about how much light the fixture is putting off, nor the quality of that light. And not the color of the light either. All are crucial factors. I assume you'll be plugging these lamps into general circuits and not a generator. You can get 1500-2kw on a 20amp circuit if there is NOTHING else on it. So loading up on a bunch of power hungry tungsten lights isn't going to get you too far. The fluorescents are generally very efficient giving off about 4-5 times the light per watt of Tungsten. So a 25w Fluo is similar to a 100-125w tungsten lamp. HMIs are also excellent, but very expensive. Lowell lights are nice, and I have a few (Tota, DP, Rifa88). Kino Flo lights are an industry standard, but a bit pricey. Quote:
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yeah that's another question I had written down and forgot to ask. Someone mentioned to me the flourescnets aren't good because they tend to flicker and aren't stable, yet aren't the Kino's flourescents? Also another thing I noticed while playing with the DVX, anything white would display or show up on the viewfinder with flickering striped lines. |
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Fluorescents of ANY kind. The Kino Flo's are very high quality units with specific color balanced tubes. There are lots of types of fluorescent lights out there. Most of gotten long past the flickering, sickening green things we used to know. They run cool, don't use a lot of power, and kick off a lot of light. Soft light. So if you need the light to carry a long way, or are trying to create strong shadows, then Fluos are not what you want. The "striped" lines you say are "zebras". It's the camera's way of letting you know you may be about to overexpose something, and you need to be careful. You need to read through the manual carefully, and learn the camera. DVX cam is great. I love mine. |
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Man I can't wait to start filming. |
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But couldn't it be said that since the DVX is what most film school students use/have used, that even if they've moved up to something more tech worthy they'd still be able to regress per say and use a DVX? Don't most DPs that are worth their salt, own some kind of high end camera as well? |
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I couldn't say what most DPs would own, but I'd suspect many own film cameras, and some will own higher end video cams. Some might have owned DVXs way back when. Anyone who's done even am little DP work should be able to figure out the DVX in an afternoon, and be ready to roll. It's a fairly simple camera as far as basic settings go. 24pA, zebras, all manual, set iris, shutter, focus and go. Oh, and load a tape! :) |
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the ultimate problem, and this is why I discovered this board, is that most of these same people DIDN'T own a DVX (stupid me) nor were not DPs. |
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