Getting my head around manual exposure on the HM100
 

Surely by pressing the 'Iris' button on the back (when in M for manual mode) the darned thing should stick to the F-stop set? Only locks when pressing the AE button and then locking it by pressing and holding the 'Adj/Vol' toggle. Can't get my head around this. All I want is a simple manual exposure where I can pop it from auto exposure (what the camera thinks is the right exposure) to fully manual so that I can adjust it (what I think is the right exposure) and it shall stay there until I command otherwise! So many button presses when an iris ring on the lens does it all quite easily on a proper camera but hey.

And why-oh-why doesn't the f-stop number displayed on the screen change when one adjusts the iris and/or AE? Press your iris button and see the f-stop number on the screen - now pan across from that dark shadow to that bright highlight and the lens stops down okay, but the number lies and stays the same. Flick it off, and then on again and the numbers updates. Would be nice to have it in real time!

Comments?

Cheers, Cotty

There are many ways JVC could have gone:

1) Replace Zoom Ring option with Manual Aperture Ring option. (Entering Manual Aperture mode turns-off AE.)

2) Add third option to the Zoom/Focus SWITCH to also allow Manual Aperture Ring option. (Entering Manual Aperture mode turns-off AE.)

3) Move WB button to the back replacing IRIS. Now:

Place small ring (Manual Aperture adjust or AE Bias adjust) dial with center button where the WB button is now placed.

Hold center button to switch between Manual Aperture mode and AE BIAS mode and AE mode. (In the latter mode, the ring is not live. While in the former two modes the ring is live.)

In Manual Aperture mode, tap button to turn ON/OFF needed histogram display.

In both AE modes, tap button to Lock/Unlock AE. (The bias would be displayed in both AE modes.)

In ALL modes, the F-stop would be real-time displayed!

#3 would have been a trivial hardware change and a tiny firmware change from the HD7. And, it would have more justified the HM100's price.

PS1: in an ideal world, JVC would release an HM200 next NAB with a revised Exposure Control system and a "hot" shoe (the still camera works quite nicely in bright light) and then let the consumer group sell the current HM100 without the mic. handle at under $2500. This would undercut the Panasonic HMC40 which -- other than AVCHD -- looks very nice at $3200.

PS2: a Lolux mode with half the gain would be nice to keep noise lower. And, the firmware added to the HD7's firmware to control the HM100's "shooting modes" should be revised to operate in a manner consistent (Left toggle should work) with the HD7's firmware. (Unless you had an HD7 you likely would not notice the new firmware is a bit of a hack job.) And, the Spot meter is now nearly useless since JVC removed it's control button. It also was the BackLite button. Could this have saved that much cost?

PS3: And why not let 1280x720 photos be captured while shooting 720p?

I ran into this on my first shoot with the HM100. I found that unless you have also put the camera into manual mode for shutter speed then the camera continues to adjust the shutter speed for what it perceives as the proper exposure (and the gain too if you are in auto gain mode) - e.g. instead of the 1/48 I wanted, the camera was shooting at 1/100 or something like that). Thus I put everything into manual mode so all the actual choices are displayed on screen and that then held the exposure i was trying to achieve.

And so in your panning test I believe that when you cycle the AE switch you're actual returning your shutter speed to the normal choice for for frame rate and then seeing a corrected exposure for the new shutter speed.

well, very unscientific but that's my two cents on the problem.

best.

I am about to order one of these, this made me think.

So I looked in the manual and my interpretation of what it says there (bottom of column1 page 38 - adjusting the aperture) would seem to confirm the method Jon describes . It say pressing AE cancels manual mode for that item. Says the same on page 37 regarding manual shutter.

The section on "manual exposure"is a bit confusing as it refers to AE over-ride.

PS
Is there any kind of readout for focus distance, even just a bar? It would be nice to just set it 1/3 into focus range ( approximating the hyper-focal distance ) and leave it. On 1/4 inch sensors that ought to cover most wide angle situations with a moderate amount of light.

My experience with my HM100 is that in manual exposure mode using the full auto toggle on the front toggled to 'manual' , if you can see the aperture and shutter speed indicators, both aperture and shutter speed stay constant until you change them. The aperture and shutter indicators are toggled on and off by repeatedly pressing those buttons respectively on the back of the camcorder. When the indicator is black, then the flip/dial thing will adjust that parameter.

If you've pressed one of those buttons so you can't see the indicator, then it will go into a priority mode (either aperture or shutter priority). If you can't see the aperture indicator, it's now in shutter priority mode, if you can't see the shutter, then it's in aperture priority mode and the shutter will be automatically adjusted to what the camcorder believes is the proper exposure.

If you toggle aperture back on to manual mode, (you can see the indicator) then it will start at what the camcorder had set it to in the auto-aperture mode. If you toggle the shutter back to manual mode, it will flip to the previous manual shutter speed you had.

While JVC may have seen some logic in this, why make the shutter go back to some manual setting that is probably way off? The reason we might use aperture or shutter in auto mode is to use the camcorder to get a 'close' exposure, then go manual the rest of the way. At least using the camcorder to give us 'hints' is possible in the aperture-auto mode.

Overall, the exposure controls on the HM100 are weak, and in my opinion, not really "Pro" for a camcorder of this class. There is no histogram, the zebras are basically invisible on the LCD, and manual control of the exposure parameters is slow and unintuitive for various reasons I've stated before. A separate dial for exposure, located anywhere, instead of a up/down switch would have been so much better. And indicators of the current aperture and shutter, even when in Auto mode, would also help give us hints about what the camcorder thinks is the correct exposure.

I'm not sure if JVC had enough focus groups or pro shooter testers in the design of the HM100, or if they deliberately 'hobbled' it so as not to compete with the HM700.

That being said, because of the size, weight, portability and EX codec, I'm using it a lot and it will get you good quality footage (often in AUTO mode) that you'd miss with a bigger camcorder such as the EX1/EX3 or the HM700. I guess nothing's perfect.

As a JVC rep has previously said, the HM100 is meant to be a handheld camera. It also appears that it is meant to be used in auto mode, and from reports, it does seem to do very well in auto.

However, it does seem that it would be much better if it were setup to use the auto controls to quickly setup up the camera, then keep these settings in manual mode, with easy-to-use, intuitive, and ergonomically intelligent adjustment controls.

One step further, it would make sense to me to have on these cameras a "metering button" that would set the aperture with a press. This might be done in conjunction with a wheel, wherein you push the button to instantly set the aperture, then move the wheel for adjustment. Of course the button/wheel would also need a +/- adjustment as accompanies regular auto-aperture.

I think the uncompressed sound is one of the best features in the camera. IMO right now this camera should be about $2000- 2500 range, take the sound unit away and it should not cost more then new Canon HF100 or Panasonic HS300

I've read the HS300 is very nice, but even with some of the things we wish were different about the HM100 -- it would be unfair not to get more money for the HM100. The old HD1 was $2000 and the HD7 was $1800 -- and the HM100 (without the mic) is far better than any of these. So, an MSRP of $2000 would be fine by me.

But, here's the problem ALL companies are facing. If a consumer unit is $2000 -- the pro unit must be 2X higher otherwise there is not enough of a market division. That forces the pro model to $4000.

Were you to get your wish, the consumer unit would need to be $1000 to $1250 -- and that's just too cheap for what you get. Then Canon, Sony, and Panasonic, and JVC consumers units would need to fall to $800. Companies don't want to drive everyone into the ground.

Were the exposure system more "pro" than "consumer" -- I don't think the HM100 would seem "too expensive" at its current price.

PS: now that there is no tape-transport cover to fold-out down, WHY is the handstrap on ALL these palmcorders still mounted near the bottom of the camcorder so it allows the camcorder to twist to the left?

Steve! I have a JVC HD-10.... that was as much my HD110 when it came out... and it really tanks compared to my 110. so I agree. $3,500 isn't too much.... now my head hurts looking at this... TELL me that the manual controls are better than the HD-10? I'll have to download the manual. I was thiking of getting one, or maybe a used HD-100/110

I look at this from a different perspective. The line between consumer and pro is just vanishing. I mean right now there are high school kids making killer content. I think prosumer group is getting larger, and this is going to be a future of the market.
BTW money talks. I shot with HM100 for a couple of days. I was going to purchase it, but so far I did not,as a job it was going to be used on is postponed till August or September. In the meantime I am watching what JVC is going to do about some of the issues with HM100 and decide later. So yes JVC, hope you are reading this.

I'm available but not cheap!

Well, okay I am cheap.

Thanks for all the replies, am going to do some more testing this weekend if I can find some time during a break from a corporate edit. It really is a fun camera to use with absolutely top class pictures for it's spec, would be great to be able to er shed light on the exposure thing.

Cotty

Same here, at first sight I thought "oh fantastic a baby brother for my HD100" something many have asked for over the last 3 1/2 years.

I was about to order yesterday but I decided to put it on hold for while at least until I can get some proper hands-on time with one- demo units are pretty hard to find.

The apparent clumsiness of the manual controls being the main reason.

I saw in a test that the fastest zoom speed is about 3 sec each way - so to manually focus crash in/focus back out would take about 8 secs - there goes the shot. This normally would take about 2-3 sec to do in manual lenses With a distance readout this would not be necessary as distance could be preset. 35mb codec won't help if I missed the shot fiddling with the exposure or focusing.

Or how about a "instant focus" button to blip into auto and off again and likewise for exposure these are the type of things that the fancier consumer cameras have.

The problem looks like to be the HM100 doesn't seem to know exactly what it is - it teases us with uncompressed audio, proper switches for white-balance and gain - but a teeny iris/shutter dial, tucked up against the battery. Right now the Pana TM300 seems to offer more direct manual controls (although not the canon fs100).

I looked at my (dead) VX1000 that that I still have lying around from what - 12 years ago. Ergonomically similar, but the "auto lock" button and exposure/iris wheel was on the side - I could live with that but have hand-held camera ergonomics really advanced so little?

I am afraid what kind of issues HM100 has? I wan to buy this camera, I have HD7 with me, and want to buy this new HM100. If you some can expain what problem HM100 is facing?

Kaushik

I think this thread got side tracked. When in manual mode it it is still auto exposing. If you press the aperture or shutter button on the back then you are locking that value. If you press aperture and shutter you lock both and the value on the screen is the setting on the camera. If you press the button again to make the number go away then you are returning that setting to auto.

If you point the camera at something. Let it auto expose and then press aperture and shutter then it will lock the aperture and shutter speed at what it automatically determined to be correct.

There are 3 things the camera adjusts gain, aperture and shutter. It will continue to adjust whatever you don't manually choose. If you set the aperture and shutter speed but keep the gain on AGC then the camera will still auto expose but only by varying the gain.

Is that what maybe what was confusing you? I have talked to a couple people that thought they had to press aperture after they made an adjustment to 'set' what they had chosen but that just canceled what they had already set.

Yes, it has to be locked; otherwise it will keep changing accordingly light! I have HD7; it is very similar to HM100. I never forget to press ok after done my all settings; otherwise it will be in auto mode!

So each time we have to lock shutter/ aperture both, we have to press and hold for some seconds and then display of num values will goes in different colours, so we can come to know that yes it actually locked! And if we press shutter/ aperture button two times continually it will go in auto mode! This is what I do with my HD7, and I am sure same would be with HM100.

And I keep AGC off, otherwise it will gives over expose and picture would be too bright. I only put AGC on when I shoot in night time or low light condition.

Kaushik

I don't think the exposure control is all that confusing. It's either full auto with + or - to adjust for backlight or spotlight, or full manual, or while in manual mode, aperture priority or shutter priority. The 'bug' in it as I see it is when you put it into aperture priority mode, and then you want to fine-tune the shutter speed by clicking on the shutter speed button, it switches back to whatever manual shutter speed you had before, not what the HM100 had previously adjusted the shutter speed to to get what it thought was the proper exposure.

So say you had the aperture just right, but you want to just stop down the exposure or bump it up by adjusting the shutter. Or maybe you just want to see what the camcorder set the shutter to make sure there isn't strobing, the 'private ryan effect' etc, or whatever... you press the shutter button, and it goes to whatever you had set it to before, dimming it or brighting it and you are now out of whack and have to either go back to aperture priority or flick the switch until you have what you want.

Maybe JVC sees some logic here in the current behavior, but it seems like an oversight. For shutter priority mode (with the black shutter speed indicator on and no aperture indicator) when you click the aperture button it stays at what it had automatically set the aperture to, then you can open or close the aperture to taste. You can't do that with the shutter speed in the same way.

Now with a 1/4" sensor you may not be doing a lot of aperture choices for depth of field control, but you might, and you also might want to make sure that the aperture is around it's 'sweet spot' for the sharpest image.

So JVC, if you're listening, if you can provide a firmware update, make shutter speed in switching from aperture priority to full manual with the shutter consistent. Also find some way to display the aperture and shutter all the time, whatever the mode. It will give us hints on how to get better performance out of the camcorder. If you're worried that it may clutter the display, make it an option in the menu for those that need more info or those that don't care to see more info.

Sony had several firmware updates on the EX1 within it's first few months of release, and it seems nowadays it's more common, the Canon recently updated it's control on the 5DmkII, so it seems if there is enough demand for enhancements they could happen. I have no idea how JVC does update the firmware in this camcorder but I assume it could read something off the card or the USB interface.

Again, this being said, these 'bugs' don't make the camcorder unusable. Things like these should not stop you from purchasing it. The image quality and sound is very good for a camcorder in this price range, and the codec and portability is unprecedented.

Man, I love these forums!

I think JVC has priced both the 100 and the 700 too high on the strength of the .mov/35 mbs/XDCAM codec. Yes, it's a unique time saver, but I don't need to save time and I'd like to pay less. Or, I'd pay what they're asking if the chip sizes were bumped up to 1/3" and 1/2" respectively.

For the same price as the 100, I could get an HMC 150 with a real nice wide lens, 1/3" chips, and a thoroughly modern H.264 codec running at 24 mbs. Yes, I'd have to log and transfer to ProRes or wait for FCP 7 to do it natively.

As for the 700, I think $5,500. would make it very attractive as is, and I'd have to live with the 1/3" CCD's. And I miss the CAC built into the HPX300. I hope the 14x Canon lens gets rid of the magenta outline around edges with the Fuji 17x lens. Maybe it's just "focus assist" leaking into the CCD's!

If this were 2006, things would be different, but we're in the middle of The Great Recession, and it's a tougher sale all around.

While I agree that not everyone needs a super fast workflow -- h.264 takes about 6X more compute power that MPEG-2 and delivers no visual benefit. In fact, it's worse than MPEG-2 at 35Mbps. So I'd say it's "modern" only in the sense it is newer. It certainly isn't better.

Both Pana and Sony are pushing this codec whose only advantage is longer recording time at the exact same time the chip folks are introducing huge fast SDHC cards. JVC is so smart to let the semi industry solve storage problems while they solve editing problems.

You'll also notice that while Sony pushs h.264 on consumers -- it's not bothering about it for pro cameras. All Sony needs to do is allow XDCAM 422 to be written to cards and that effectively pushes h.264 further out of the picture.

PS: Not sure what Sony will do about 10-bit recording. XDCAM discs can record at 70Mbps. This should allow 10-bit XDCAM 422.

I actually did get the Panasonic HMC150 when it first came out in January, but as soon as the HM100 was announced I returned it and waited 4 months for the HM100 and got it as soo as it was available.

For the price and image quality, the Panasonic HMC150 was a pretty good deal. It had most of the 'pro features' that we would like to see in the HM100, for a little less money, such as dial aperture, waveform generator. It didn't have a very good LCD or viewfinder, not any better than the HM100. However it used the H.264 codec as well as it was quite a bit bigger and heavier than the HM100. The images were very pleasing but while I believe a bit better than it's 'big brother,' the HVX, they were still, in my opinion, a bit 'soft.' I didn't find the sensitivity or latitude to be superlative.

For me the XDCAM EX codec is a 'money saver.' It saves me money by not having to transcode to about 6x the original file size. So while the size of the original AVCHD file is maybe 2/3 of the XDCAM EX codec, it winds up taking 6x by the time you transcode it to Prores. You have to also factor in the time you have to take to do the initial transcoding. It's an extra step that you just don't have to do with the JVC XDCAM implementation. Just drag them into your timeline. Your Mac or PC will be able to handle multiple streams of the HDCAM EX codec just fine.

When you start having to back up and archive lots of hours of footage, the storage space and method of backing all this up becomes a big issue. Do you just back up the original H.264s, or do you also back up the Prores transcodes as well? Do you decide to do a log and transfer of just the clips you need to transcode? All these questions become moot if you are using XDCAM EX files.

For right now, for me, if you do a lot of hours of acquisition XDCAM EX is one of the best choices for high-quality in a reasonable storage space.

Keith Moreau,

So are you happy with HM100? I have HD7 and want to buy this new HM100.

Kaushik

I am happy with it with a few frustrations outlined above and in other posts mostly having to do with a few items that JVC left out but I think could have easily put in to make it just a little bit more "professional" in controlling the camcorder properly. I use it all the time, much more frequently than my much more expensive Sony EX1 just because it is way more portable. The best camcorder is the one you wind up using.

However, if you don't need the XDCAM EX codec, or the XLR audio or CCD (no-rolling shutter issues) sensors, then there are numerous GREAT consumer AVCHD camcorders that in some ways are better than the HM100, are more portable an much less expensive.

One that I did purchase but reluctantly returned was the Canon HFS100, an AVCHD camcorder with progressive 24P and 30P modes. I liked everything about it except for the AVCHD codec. It had a manual focus dial, some level of exposure control (not fully manual but you could fudge it to get what you wanted), awesome 8MP digital stills, great macro capability, and good sound as well as a way to add external mics. It was about $1,000, as opposed to the $3,500 JVC HM100. I just realized that I didn't need 2 super portable camcorders, one prosumer and one consumer.

I'm happy with my decision with the HM100. There are also good CMOS consumer cams from other manufacturers, such as Panasonic and Sony. However neither of those has a 30P mode. The Panasonics have a 24P mode but it's not very good quality, and the Sonys, for some reason have 60i as well as using internal hard drives instead of SDHC because they cannot bring themselves to use the ubiquitous and inexpensive SDHC cards.

Good luck in your decision. Hope I didn't make it harder.

Keith Moreau,

Thanks for your reply.

If someone can help me to take decision. I want to do professional photo/ videography. Now I have already with me JVC HD7, and I want to buy HM100 that is sure. But for still I am considering Canon 5DMKII, now is that right choice? I have temptation for its 1080p video feature, but HM100 is giving me same kind of video than should I still go for 5DMKII? Off curse still on 5DMKII would be fantastic, but for video should I buy? Since I will have HM100 also with me. So question is that should I go for both HM100 & 5DMKII? And I like Fuji S5Pro also for still pictures and it is not much costly, and yet great camera and Fuji S100fs is also amazing very cheap, about $400. So one thing is clear HM100 would be there but what about 5DMKII? Should I buy that too? Or Fuji S5Pro?

I would really appreciate help on this issue.

Thanks,
Kaushik

Kaushik
 

Kaushik. Well I don't have either but I have read lots of reviews of the Canon as well as the Nikon competition. The consensus is that the canon and nikons are great cameras, that now offer some HD work. But they are impractical to use for HD aquisition. Now if you think of it as you are out photographing, and suddenly you think 2 minutes of the stream and deer you are photographing could make a good clip for your HD doc you are working on, then yes you can shoot the video.. but you wouldn't want to go through the hoops of shooting much of it with the camera...

My thoughts? sell your HD7, get the HM100 and get a good canon/nikon digital camera if you don't have one. if you can swing the HD canon/nikon for not much more, then do it, you never know when you will want to capture some HD footage while photographing..

If you are going to get the HM100 for sure, I think you might want to hold back on a top-0f-the-line BIG and HEAVY SLR, the lenses, etc.

Trying to do video and carry a full-size DSLR is not easy.

First question, how much experience do you have with still photography. If it is not a lot and you have not already been working with pro Canon DSLRs and have the lenses, I would stay away from it for now if your primary interest is video.

The smaller (and less expensive) options you have suggested make more sense. Even if you want to upgrade to a top full pro DSLR setup later, the smaller camera will still have a use.

As well, in 6 months, there's a good chance that there will be even more improvements on the pro DSLRs.

If you have no DSLR gear at this time and want a step-up from the consumer options into the pro world, the new Pentax K-7 is something to look at:
Pentax K-7 Hands-on Preview: 1. Introduction: Digital Photography Review
Besides being very reasonably priced, the smaller size, lighter weight, and much easier to use interface, make this camera ideal as a DSLR supplement to a videographer. (This camera also shoots video.)

A while back, working on a documentary, I suddenly needed to take some stills for a magazine. I bought the Pentax K-10, then the K-20 (still using), and it worked out well. Much lighter weight and some excellent lens choices. The new K-7 is even smaller, better designed, and a lot of improved features.

Now for full time photographer with very special and specific needs (like sports, etc.), I think the top-of-the line Canons (and maybe Nikon now) are necessary... with the considerable lens choices and other specialized features in the different models.

However, for someone whose primary interest is video and who is not (or has not been) a professional photographer, I think the smaller high-end consumer cameras are a better choice. Or, as I explained above, the new Pro Pentax K-7 for a bit more money is the way to go.

As pointed out in another post, the new Canon is not that friendly for dedicated video use. There are a lot of hassles and a lot of video shooting features missing.

I think the HM100 and a $400-800 still camera is the way to go. In many cases, the consumer point-and-shoot cameras make better pictures than the top pro cameras a few years ago.

Bottom line: What is your priority, video or still photography? How much still photo experience with pro DSLR gear do you have? How much gear do you want to carry around? How much of the inconvenience of a DSLR system do you want to build into your shooting style.

Shoot video and make it easy to take some stills now. Upgrade to a full blown DSLR system when and if you are ready.

Alex Humphrey,

Thanks. Good idea. Well I do nnt have any Pro DSLR experiance, but I am confident, it will not take much for me, I am sure.

Ok, but I will keep HD7, and will buy HM100. But now I love S5Pro, so now question is that which should I select Fuji S5Pro or Fuji S100fs, I love Fuji cameras I already have FujiS9000.

I need two video cameras so I will keep HD7, customers only required DVDs of their work so I am fine with HD7, I am fully satiesfied with it.

So HM100, HD7 and now which DSLR?

Kaushik

Jack Walker,

Thanks and very well said. Yes, Canon's primery feature is still photo not video. I am not pro, I do not have any expe in DSLR, but I am not worry about it, I will be able to understand very fast, I am confident, not overconfident though.

Yes, after 6 months new camera with better features will be launched. You said aboot Pentax, I will soon read about it. But I love Fuji so what is your advise on FujiS5Pro & FujiS100fs, both are amazing, though S100fs is not pro.

HM100 will be good for me, I will keep HD7 for some time now. I am not pro, I want good video and still both. I am not sure whether you have gone through with my videos. I ivite you if you have not seen:

My profile on Vimeo; Kaushik on Vimeo

My latest Video: C. G. Road Walkers Day, "NO CAR DAY" on Vimeo

YouTube - Birthday Celebration in Atira

Street Dancer, New York on Vimeo

Vegetables & Flowers Maraket in Ahmedabad on Vimeo

Do not forget to see this slidshow: PHILIPS @ IFA 2008, Berlin on Vimeo

Ahmedabad, India on Vimeo

Kankaria Lake, Ahmedabad, December 2008 on Vimeo

And my only video (wedding) with Canon HV20: Just Married on Vimeo

Now please everybody give me friedly advice, how am I doing in videography? Suggestions and feedback are wellcome. Willl help me to do better.

PS: I am not pro. I learnt everything by my self.

Kaushik

Here is a review of the Fuji FujiS100fs
Digital Camera Resource Page Review: Fuji FinePix S100fs

I think this is the kind of camera you would be happiest with at this stage. The fixed lens eliminates a lot of problems when you are dealing with video primarily.

I can't say if this is the perfect camera for you. It seems to be out for over a year. I don't keep up with these cameras, but I know there are a couple of other good choices in this price range or maybe even a bit cheaper. However, it depends on what things you will be shooting. Do you need the very long zoom on this Fuji? And so forth. Basically, most of the name brand cameras today take great pictures in most reasonable circumstances.

The pro DSLR cameras from Nikon and Canon are huge and heavy, much more so than many people realize until they pic one up. They are not the kind of thing you just throw in the bag and take along on a video shoot. From that perspective, I think the Fuji or something similar is the way to go right now.

Here is another site that has a lot of info and reviews on cameras:
Digital Camera Reviews and News: Digital Photography Review: Forums, Glossary, FAQ

Jack Walker,

Thank you for your advice and review link. I have gone through with it, yes, it is more than one year since FujiS100fs, lauched, and its superb camera. S5Pro is availabe here in India @ $1400 (body) and S100fs @ $550. Off course we can't compare this both camera. I would love to have S5Pro.

Kaushik

The main thing to consider right now is whether you want a camera body and interchangeable lenses (the Fuji Pro) or a camera with a fixed lens (Fuji s100fs). If the fixed lens camera will cover your needs, it's much more convenient and easier to manage while dealing with the video camera than a body and interchangeable lenses. Until you get some experience shooting stills, especially if you main objective is video, I think the fixed lens camera will better suit your needs. And remember that the lens on the fixed camera is likely better quality than inexpensive lenses for the other camera. And if you get quality lenses for the body, you are looking at spending quite a few more dollars. And if you put a basic zoom on the pro body and leave it there, you're not gaining anything by having interchangeable lenses. And to finish my take on the subject, shooting video and dealing with a DSLR and several lenses all at once is quite an uncomfortable juggling act. Likely both the video and the stills will suffer.

Thanks. I agreed what you have said. But is it justify to pay three time more to get good pictures? Is there any huge difference between S5Pro and S100fs, in terms of result? I have seen stunning pictures from S5Pro, and S100fs is also good at $550. Its worthy to pay three times or just S100fs would be good?

Kaushik

What are you going to take pictures of?

Is is possible the less expensive camera will give you better pictures for now.

Are you going to use manual settings or shoot in one of the auto modes.

I suggest you go to a store if possible and see the menus on the cameras, see the size and weight, and see how they operate.

A $400 camera can take outstanding pictures. But if you are planning to shoot stage performances in low light, need a long telephoto lens (for about $3000 or more) and so forth, that is when you need to look at the pro DSLRs.

Just what will you be photographing and in what lighting conditions?

In my opinion, it is best to learn digital photography with a fixed lens camera. The higher end consumer cameras with manual controls can give every bit as good pictures as the pro cameras, and probably better for less experienced users.

But again, the first consideration is what are you going to shoot and under what conditions, and what will be the final use for the pictures... web, 4x6 prints, 8x10 prints, printed brochures, magazines, billboards, or something else.

I want to start my own business, for video & photo. These include videos & photos of Event, Wedding, Portrait, Picnic, Parties and anything like documentary, small films etc. Means purely professional work, maybe initially small scale, but same time do not want any compromise, but if I can save money with good selection of equipments then I will have to consider less expensive models also.

Thanks,
Kaushik

Parmar, as far as stills, first of all decide what system you want- Canon or Nikon. Don't even consider anything else. Nikon tends to be more $$$ and one drawback is pinkish skin tones, so you'll have to do a lot of correcting in photoshop. Just collect glass, don't worry too much about the body. And always buy the top quality, as you will need it.
My though is also as far a s video you will need a lot of help- editing, sound and such. It's not a solo gig and my best advice is to hook up with some small production company.

Sorry, but I strongly disagree with this for being both inaccurate and poorly considered.

How many people are on your staff? Will you be shooting video or stills. If you shoot video, perhaps the stills photographer will have his own equipment.

If you have not been shooting either video or stills yet professionally (or an an amateur), I suggest you start with one, then add the other one.

If you are shooting still photos of weddings, you will also need to consider a flash system. You will also need at least two cameras, in my opinion to shoot still photos at weddings.

If you do not have experience with digital photography, before buying a digital camera, I think it's necessary to rent or borrow a could of different ones and try them out.

There is no point in buying equipment that you will end up never using. Get the basics for your main purpose, for example, shooting video at weddings, then use it and build on it according to your needs and style of shooting. A large percentage of the dvinfo.net Private Classifieds are practically new items, in many cases purchased originally because the way things seemed they would be turned out not.

When it comes to buying digital cameras, buying a less expensive camera is not necessarily buying an inferior camera.

By the way, the Canon 5D MkII with the basic top quality 24-70mm lens will cost about $4000. The combo weighs over 4 lbs., more than the HM100 with the mic. The flash unit will cost several hundred more dollars.

Thank you, Canon would be great but maybe intially I will go with Fuji S5pro and JVC HM100, I have JVC HD7.

Thank you and I understood what you said. Yes Indeed Canon 5DMKII would be very costly and bulky!

So you want me to buy HM100 wit Fuji S100fs, right?, this would be initially buying than I can add Nikon or Canon DSLR, right?

Kaushik

If I were you, until I got experience with digital photography, I would not buy a camera with interchangeable lenses.

There is a big investment in lenses, and once you commit, you are kind of stuck with the brand you choose. Canon has been the standard pro camera, and Nikon came on the scene in an impressive way a few months ago. Pentax just made an entry about 18 months ago and came out with an impressive offering in its new model this month.

I bought Pentax, because I used Pentax still cameras around the world for many years. The trademark has been simple and lightweight with outstanding lenses. Pentax is following this tradition with its entry into DSLRs, and I needed the lightweight and smaller size. I also have several old Pentax lenses I can use on the new body, and I like the new fixed folcal length lenses that Pentax has. However, my use of the still camera is rather specialized, and I'm not necessarily recommending it to someone else without understanding thoroughly their needs and experience.

That said, buying into any DSLR system is a commitment, and the purchaser should have a thorough understanding of the pros and cons of the systems offered by the various companies.

Nevertheless, for a first DSLR type camera, I believe a fixed lens version is the best choice, for both cost and utility. Remember, a $400 camera today shoots pictures as good or better than the top DSLR cameras of five to seven years ago.

You may get interested in photography and end up with a top-of-the-line system. However, the grab and shoot fixed lens camera is always going to have a place, especially if you are also a videographer.

I don't know if the fixed lens Fuji is necessarily the best choice, but I think it's the type of camera that is best to start with until you really know what you need. The truth is, you may hate still photography, prefer to concentrate on video and get a partner who does the still work.

One other thing. How are you going to use the wedding stills? Do these go into one of those type of videos common in India where there are hundreds of still pictures? If so, a high megapixel pro DSLR that shoots RAW is not what you want. You will want to shoot jpegs of rather low megapixel count (as compared to what cameras can shoot today), with a camera that does a very good job of with auto settings. The big pro camera is likely to be able to be set for this, but it is also likely overkill.

Thank you very much, you give your lot of time.

Kaushik

Sorry, Kaushik, for some reason I thought you were in India.

For the still camera, it would be a good idea to go into a big photo store (if you are in New Jersey, can you get to B&H), and get your hands on the different cameras.