Shopping Cart Feedback! JVC-GYHD200 ++
 

Ok - this may be a bit unconventional, but I'd like to post my shopping cart to solicit feedback from the HDV crew - particularly those who own/use the HD200u.

Here's an image of the cart.

I'm looking for improvements, deletions, additions...etc. The DR-HD100 does NOT record 720/60p (bummer), but I suspect it will be valuable nonetheless.

That does bring up a question: What's the difference at 100% speed between 30p and 60p? I would expect there to be one with slo-mo, but not at much 100...?

Anyway - spend my money wisely! *grin....

I'd suggest better quality filters. B+W, or (on a budget) Hoya Super Multi Coated.

Frosted the Filterman vs. Frosty the Filter
 

Better filters it is, then. I will look into some general kits of those brands. I have a few filter follow-ups if I may, though.

So specifically: a Polarizer (linear?) and protection; something to keep the dust out; something for camels to spit on...but really - what else for a general kit?

I honestly don't think I want some of these diffusers, and I hardly have a head knowledge large enough to carry around 5 different grades of ND filters - most of what I shoot is event-style - happens quick. You miss it, it's gone. So unless I can know that on camera filtering is superior, I'm more inclined to post it. Perhaps it's experience, but I'm almost always shooting w/o a grip or PA, too.

SO another way to ask that: Which is better - getting the right filter on the glass - or getting the right filter on the footage (after the fact)? With the power of certain filters, Look Suite MB in particular, is it better to shoot interviews/portrait stuff clean so you can do whatever later - or is the official answer - you need to know what you're doing and which filter to apply, and apply it - correctly, each time, while you're shooting? :=)

Jeff

People can get rowdy sometimes. I once had somebody throw food at the camera while I was shooting (he thought he was being funny I guess, but the humor was lost on me), so for events, especially where alcohol is being served, I'd suggest having a UV filter in front of the lens for protection.

A polarizer and ND filters can be very useful for outdoor shooting. Use a circular polarizer with digital cameras.

For the most part, I don't see much use for special filters, like diffusers or color filters. You can pretty much achieve those effects in post.

Agreed! I would never feel right shooting w/o one.

That's my theory as well - but that does tend to negate the $4,000 matte boxes...and while they sure "looks cool" it's over my head (for now).

Thanks - Jeff

Do you mean literally?

If so,

60p = 60 frames per second.
30p = 30 frames per second.

So the difference is 30p. What do I win?

Seriously, do a search, there's lots of good info on 60p on this site.

When 60 - 30 doesn't = 30
 

My undying gratitude...?

LOL. I mean visually - not literally. There are more frames per second - but I'm wondering what the distilled, practical results are. By the time this get hammered into a 4:3 DVD for use at home (wide aspect) - what's the difference?

I will - and I won't tie up this thread discussing what's already out there -
I think I'm asking only to determine whether to, as standard op, shoot 720/30p or 60p - why wouldn't I always shoot 60p? I mean, there's going to be a conversion somewhere at some point - should I favor 30p in the camera so I don't have to render it down later? Should I just shoot at 60p b/c it's "better" and deal with conversion at a later time...but that's more what I meant. Lemme search a bit more here.

It's incredible the amount of information here. I'm sorry for not looking before asking - there's just a lot of little questions stitched up in actually plunking down 15k =)

Visually, 60p gives you much smoother motion than 30p (not a film-like judder).

I believe HD200 comes with an Anton Bauer battery plate built in.

The plate have have selected is for the HD100/110.

The $ound of $aving
 

Yeah - there are some items (like PortaBrace stuff) that mention the HD100/110 - so I assume HD200 - I know, be careful...but the light I added requires a Gold Plate to plug into for power So that's why it's in there....but removing it would pay for the upgrade in filters! Seriously - that's beautiful. I'll check into it - and thanks!

Disk Recorder
 

The question, while a daily work flow one, originates with the Firestore DR-HD100 and it's inability to record 60p. SO if I want to be able to use the footage right away, it would have to be 30p. SO what if I just shot everything 30p in the first place? That's why the original question, but I'm more inclined now to remove the DR-HD100 and wait until 1) I just have to have and 2) it captures 60p.

Because 60p has, well, twice as many frames per second. Who wouldn't want that?

Thanks - Jeff

I don't know why the DR-HD100 wouldn't be able to record at 60p. As far as I know, it's simply recording the MPEG2 data stream coming from the firewire port.

Also remember that the DR-HD100 has no 24/25P QT support for the HD200 yet. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

BTW, the HD200 already comes with the Gold Mount adapter built in, and like all Anton Bauer Gold mounts, it comes with the powertap receptacle. I made the mistake of buying the AB Adapter for the HD100U thinking I would need it on the HD200 , but once I realized my mistake I decided to swap it for a Porta Brace carry bag (which is perfect for this camera) and paid the difference. .

I don't know why either, but their Tech Support says "No."

When they say that it doesn't support 720p60 does that mean that it just doesn't put the quicktime wrapper on it?

I was under the impression that it would still record an M2T file at 720p60.

Negative, Will Robinson!
 

Well, I'm under the impression that there's no point in getting one if you're recording 60p as a part of your regular workflow...I asked specifically about recording 60p on the camera and 30p on the disk - the answer was Negative - they had to match.

Oooo. Software update just popped a Final Cut Update into my screen...

So, anyway, there's only one unit, that 100, that will record 720/60p - but it's not compatible with JVC HDV...

Hi Jeffery,

The DRHD100 DOES record 720/60p, in the .m2t mode. I've done it several times.

But, support for 60p HDD files over firewire for NLE's is very limited so far. As in the past, the NLE companies will have to catch up. For now, you could play the files back through the camera, and come out the component HD connector, and go to a capture card like BlackMagic or AJA

Regards,

Correct for now. New firmware to enable 24p Quicktime from the HD 200 or HD 250 cameras is due from Focus in mid March.

And these are the files that will wind up and play on the JVC DVD player, then? That's a good thing...closer than we were to happiness on this thread. But Phil at Focus Enchancements says no....but you've done it, so I'm more inclined to believe you.

Well, if I've got to play the stuff back anyway, then capturing it to the DRHD100 seems a marginal benefit - except that I can burn the files immediately to DVD and archive/review the footage....

Is there currently an Apple Compressor way for conversion of the footage? I can see using the HDD, copying the stuff to DVD then converting the footage to whatever glossy HD variant that matches - including Apple Intermediate Codec...

If you record in m2t then yes, instant m2t dailies burned to DVD will play in the JVC SR-DVD100 player.
You can use Mpegstreamclip to convert m2t into any quicktime codec. Cinema Tools will then allow you to slow the 60P (59.94fps) material to 24P (23.98fps) for "overcranked" slow motion.

Now we're back to the reason for having both the DVD and the HDD Recorder in the shopping cart...and this all happening at 720p 60...

AC Charger comes w/ GY HD200u?
 

Does this camera come with an AC charger? I've got this item in my cart:
But I'm not sure about it now that I re-read the specs, as I'm purchasing 2 x DIONIC 90 Lithium-Ion Battery with 14.4V/90 WH for it and the AC charger below says this:
I don't see the DIONIC listed in the specs?

Are these the batteries of choice for this camera? Does one come with it? What's the skinny w/ recharging them (or the stock)?

Thanks - getting close, here...

720p/60 workflow
 

Let's say I just want to shoot and work in 60p, then worry about the output format when it's time to, well, output. I haven't found a good thread yet talking about it (so if you can direct me to one, I'll take it!).

But like the piece you posted from Sundance, did you use CT to "just change the frame rate" and then work in a regular 29.97 fps timeline (or in your case 23.98?)?

All the pieces are in my head, I just haven't put them together yet. I want to shoot 60, work 60, and output, most likely for the next 8 mos., 30 (29.97) 16x9 SD DVD. I've never hated 30 fps, and it makes sense to use it if you're coming down from 60...especially if I'm just knocking it back up to 29.97 for NTSC output anyway...isn't that one less conversion? (not going to 24 then to 30) (I'm using 24 to equal 23.98 and 30 to equal 29.97, all NTSC speak).

I can only address the battery issue as a long time AB user using Dionic 90s.
The charger in the package WILL charge the Dionic 90s but it will only POWER the camera IF it is attached to the AB battery mount and then you can put a battery on the outside mount of the charger. That way you can run the camera off of AC and pull the plug from the charger, work off the battery and go mobile.
The dionic 90s will give you about 4 hours of run time as the camera pulls 23W in record mode. Of course if you have other attachment such as a reciever or a light pulling off the battery the run times derese accordingly. For example an AB Ultralight with a 20W bulb running off the Dionic 90 battery when recording pulls 8W of power so now you're pulling 31W of power total. Divide that into 90W and you'll see how much time you get.
When I shot a JVC5000 that pulled 20W with a light and receiver (although recievers pull very small amounts of power) I could not do a job with only 2 batteries. I have 4 and they go with in the bag no matter what the job is. Hate to run out of power in the mifddle of a job.
I would say the Dionic 90s would be the battery of choice for a couple of reasons. 1) They have 90 watts 2) they weigh in at less than 2 pounds each and 3) later on should you move to another camera the batteries will work-just get the adaptor plate. The reputation og Anton Bauer in my opinion is immpecable with excellant customer service.
I understand there might be an issue with funds but if at all possible try to get 4 batteries (well 3 at least) and possibly later on get the 2704 intellicharger. It's not cheap but it will condition your batteries and allow you to charge 4 at a time. I would keep the Titan 70 to run the camera off AC as a backup.
HTHs
Don

Don - great feedback, thanks. That's the exact scenario I was trying to consider. The Titan 70 will do what I was wondering, good.

My other question, though, to others, still stands - what's the AC solution out of the box for the HD200u? Do I even need the Titan 70? Or since I'm getting AB batteries, do I need something other than the camera to charge them - can I charge those DIONIC w/ the out-of-the-box stuff (even it's stuck doing it on the camera)...

I do not believe that you can charge the batteries or power the camera with AC right out of the box with the AB charger. Even assuming there were a 4pin tap for a power cord with some sort of AC/DC adaptor and AC cord you wouldn't be able to run the camera and the batteries certainly cannot be charged without the AB charger. I also don't think you can charge the battery while running the camera off of AC with the charger. Even with my 2704 intellicharger I can't do both at once. Theres a switch on the charger (the 2704) that goes to either charge or power. The Titan70 is not an intellicharger so I think it would be highly questionable that it could do both at once.
Sorry to be a downer on this but the professional batteries such as AB, IDX will only charge on their chargers an the fact that the charger can power the camera even though while not charging is still a plus in many cases.
Like I said, I'm biased towards AB but in my opinion thye're the best and they have so many types and sizes of batteries you can find one to power anything BUT you can only charge them on the AB charger.

Don

AC power supply
 

Getting a stand alone AC power supply for the cameras 4-pin XLR input is a reasonably cheap and compact unit if you need that capability to charge while shooting on AC. I just happened to have a vintage one around that is fine.
Don't fry your camera by using the wrong power, but the power requirements are standard for pro equipment for years now.