New Scene File: BRITE_OD (aka bright out door)
 

Hi,

Here is a new scene file designed to minimize CA in very bright outdoor scenario's. I was prompted to create this file because some of my shooting overseas with the stock 16x lens were riddled with CA for shots I need to keep. The use for this scene file is in the heart of the day with assistance of an additional ND filter (0.6). CA is extreme in the brightest part of the day and this file attempts to minimize the CA effect by bringing the camera into F2.8 to F5.6 while in the most extreme sunlight. My buddy Pete Stepnoski and I were monkeying around for the example clip.

Downloadable Scene File

"How to" load a scene file with a card reader WMV

Scene file Recipe in GIF format

Example footage using the scene file in WMV

The color settings are a combination of TC3 and Panamatch.

Have fun and Keep Shooting!

S.Noe

Thanks for posting Stephen, I wish I had this about 2 weeks ago.

other
 

Thank you Stephen
Do you think this scene file could be adequate to others (average) shooting situations, I mean, could I use this as my "standard" set up ?
Best
Ron

Thanks Stephen for the scene file.
I already bought an extra ND filter for my Mattebox to be able to avoid CA outdoor. I will give it a try next job this weekend.

Thanks for the scene file Stephen, but I'm still a little confused by the scenario.

A couple questions:
#1. Is the primary function of the scene file to reduce the gamma curve level, hence reducing sensitivity slightly, allowing the iris to be opened more.
The stock lens produces the most undesirable CA when fully open, so the intent of aiming for the "sweet spot" of F4 must be to avoid "diffraction" not CA?

#2. Your example test used a ND.6 (2 stop reduction) and 1/250th shutter (2+ stop reduction) therefore bringing an exposure that would normally be F11 into the range of F2.8 ~ F4. In what way did the scene file contribute? How many stops did setting the gamma to -2 help the exposure?

Well, watching the wmv file, I think it`s good, but very saturated (mainly in reds). Is that correct?
Best
Ron

Here is the original shot that prompted me to even pursue a solution for Brite Out Door. Click here for BMP. Attempting to clean up shots like that in post are proving to be difficult.

In the example scenario (environmentally) with the camera setup to 720/30p using ND2 and shutter 1/60 you'd have to stop the lens down to approaching closed iris. This is not a good place to be especially if you've zoom at the end of the lens. In the example clip (below) there are alot of zooms and yet the CA is held in check.

The purpose of the scene file is to quickly get the camera setup for a Brite Out Door scenario. Yes, the aim is to bring exposure down significantly when it a very bright scenario. So in essence, nothing new other than a quick setup method to get the camera stopped down, in a documentary scenario. Gamma to -2 is an attempt to keep contrast in check. Stopping down & shutter adjustments & ND filter are global adjustments, Gamma -2 allows some control over contrast elements alone.

@Ron, I think things are richly saturated with the TC3 or Panamatch files to begin with. I guess that could be toned down by pulling down the color adjustment (global adjustment in camera).

Have fun.

Thank you Stephen
Ron

Is it supposed to be stuttery?
 

Stephen, is it my system or is this footage stuttery? I mean, most 24p footage I've shot on my HD100u looks like this on my monitors, whether it be on a PC or a Mac. I wanna know if it looks right on your system, if it's my system that's making it stuttery. I'd appreciate some info on this.

Which footage are you referring to? If you're talking about the wmv then it is 30fps and I added some slow motion. This would look stuttery (a little) if the shutter speed is @ 250 and you'd conformed 30 fps to 15 fps.

24fps will look stuttery if it is not shot correctly. No doubt.

Stephen, yes I'm referring to the "BRITE" wmv file. It looks stuttery as hell on my monitors. I've yet to see "real" slomo shot with the HD100u, I mean, footage that can actually be successful edited into slow motion with an NLE. Is it even possible? One thing is slow stuttery motion and another is real Slow Motion as we know it. At this point I'm convinced that Slow Motion is not possible with this camera. Anyone care to differ? I'd be happy if I could just get 24pHDV without the stutterines from this camera. Thank you

Not seen real slo motion yet? Let me show you.

Click here for the tutorial and video example

Click here for another example using the method from above

It should get you more excited about the possibilities.

S.Noe

Thanks Stephen. I must have some kind of bad settings on my monitors, or perhaps the problem is me-expecting to get pears from an oak tree. It's that frame-by-frame effect that irks me. It looks far from smooth to me; but maybe we're not seeing the same thing. I suspect that my computer monitor settings are totally off-maybe my graphics cards or something. Thanks anyway. BTW, I use AVIDSpress Pro HD/MOJO.

You might want to check settings. Those two examples are smooth as silk on my HDTV/Monitor/SDTV.

Stephen, I just watched your slowmo footage again, but on a PC with an Nvidia Quadro FX14 this time, and let me tell ya: you're damn right that's smooth. My faith has been renewed-thank you. I guess my G4 867MHZ doesn't have the right graphics card. I'll look into that. Anyway, thanks again.