The white 16x auto lens is a handheld lens. The black 16x manual is a tripod lens.

Eric;
Be carefull. I bought a WV-DR7 Tape Deck from Japan, super piece of gear. Needed a repair after about a year. Contacted Sony, they said they would repair the unit in the US for, as I recall, about one hundred sixty dollars. Sent the unit in, got a call later stating this was a hi quality piece of equipment and because it was from Japan the cost of repair would be six hundred fifty dollars plus. Complained to no end, no results. If I didn't want it fixed, they would return it prepaid.
In addition, all the instructions were in Japanese. However, I was provided, by the seller, a limited instruction sheet in English.

I like the unit very much; But I would hesitate to buy that way again.

Ron

hello eric,

here is a link

http://www.china.org.cn/english/MATERIAL/45796.htm

greetings

XL1s IS and pan/tilting
 

I've been having some weird experiences with my XL1s and now I need some answers from the pro's here.

1) When you have the Image Stabilization turned on while you are panning, do you notice that the panning isn't really smooth as if the video is trying to keep up with the movement? Also, when you stop panning, do you notice that the image kind of moves up or down slowly and eventually stops?

2) When you are filming an event such as a wedding, do you even use IS?

3) If you use IS or not, when panning using your fluid head tripod, do you crank up the fluid so there's a slight drag for smooth movement? I use to keep it pretty loose and then lock it down when I get to my focusing point. But I've noticed that the video is always shakey when I lock the pan down. Now I think I'm just going to crank up the fluid so when I stop panning, the camera will stay still immediately without having to lock it down. Does anyone use this practice?

Thanks,
Eric

I have had pretty good luck with the OIS handheld.On sticks though it's a different animal.Any changes you make to the head are not going to help.Even a dead stop will result in drifting because the OIS reads your pan and tries to stabilizer when you stop.There are times when subject movement can be read and cause the stabilizer to drift as well.Don't use it when mounted.(page 40 of the manual).And yes adjusting head so there is a little drag seems to work better.Trial and error will determine how muck suits you.

Page 40 of the Manual? Who has time to read the fricken manual? hahaha

Thanks for your comments. :)

Eric

NTSC XL-1/shooting in China
 

Thank you Karl!

XL1s settings similar to digital photo camera?
 

I'll will be using my XL1s tomorrow for the first time. I will be shooting a hockey game. Usually I set my Canon 20d to an ISO 0f 400-800 and my Tv around 250. So I'm assumming that I would set my Gain to 0 and again my Tv to 250 does this sound right?

Any suggestions would be awesome.

Thanks

Assuming your shooting video with XL1S, I've always used manual exposure at shutter of 60 and exposed to let the ice go slightly high.using 250 you may experience some"stuttering" of the video although it would depend on your angles.Even the fast action of hockey looks good at 60

circle of confusion for canon xl1
 

Hi,

well I am new to this forum, but am currently working with a Canon XL1.
I am searching for a solution to calculate the depth of field - well, found
the formulas, and all the data.... - so it's not 'yet-another-discussion
about DoF ;)...

The problem is the circle of confusion - I do not know the paramenter
for the Canon XL1s. Could someone help me out? As soon as I have
the parameter I will post a nice piece of Software for a PocketPC
onto this forum ;)

All the best, and thanks for the help!

Artur

Artur,
Chris Hurd posted a link to a DOF Plotter in another DOF thread here. The text describing the circle of confusion indicates a value of 0.033 mm can be used for "typical eyesight".

I use a Pocket PC and might use a DOF plotter on it if available.

Hi
 

Thanks for the answer,

the formulas in the articles are correct - as also the calculator is. But
there is one big problem with this article. It only considers the eye
with a CoC of 0.0333.

as the CoC can vary completely between different camera types
(seeing the eye as 'camera' it would have a CoC of 0.0333) the
CoC can vary completely.

e.g. for 16mm usually between 1/2'' and 1/1000'' and for 35mm e.g.
1/700'' to 1/500''. The problem is now to find the parameter for
the Canon XL1s. I did not find any accurate information anywhere,
altghough tons of calculation formulas. The only parameter that is
missing for my PocketPC software is the CoC of the Canon XL1s...

;) Maybe someone did already some more successful background
research...

All the best!

Artur

Joy to Use!
 

I've been using the Canon XL1s for over two years now and I've always been pleased with the visual image quality, but slightly annoyed by the camera's shortcomings when it came to using the lense, and having to rely on the push "AF" button to obtain quick focus of a shot, etc.

Even though I've had the camera for such a long duration of time, it's only now that I've ordered and recieved a 16x manual servo lense for the XL1s...and I am so pleased with it! I've worked with beta, and mainly DVCPro on a daily basis at my day job for the last three years, and now when I pick up my XL1s it feels and behave like I expect a pro camera to feel and behave like.

The XL1s combined with the MA-200 carrying a wireless reciever on the backend, and the 16x manual servo on the front end of the camera adds a bit of heft to the package, but really balances the camera out nicely.

Most people would definately suggest changing out the FU-500 color viewfinder for the FU-1000 B/W CRT, and they're reasoning is valid. I however will probably continue to use the FU-500 until I retire the XL1S, unless the coming XL3-HD camera will make use of the FU-1000 in which case I'll buy the FU-1000 with the comforting knowledge that it will carry over to the new generation of cameras as it did with the XL2.

HDV is here and HDV cameras are all around us with new ones just a month away, but operating my XL1s is now such a joy to use I will be putting it to rigorous use until the 2nd wave of HDV cameras arrive and the world validates the HDV format as generally accepted for a variety of uses.

Looking at XL1- need help!
 

I'm fairly new at this. I have had a XL1s for about 2 years and love it. I have found a used XL1 and could be great for a back up. First the camera seems to be pretty dusty, strap is dirty, but no scratches. Video & audio seems to be fine. Besides physical appearance, video & audio- are there any other things to look for to determine wear, head cond., etc. Also, what would be a fair price? Also there was a tape in the case and the video work was terrible- guessing the guy bought the camera somewhere else and couldn't handle it. Evident he's not the original owner. No extras except hard case. Investigate further or pass? Thanks

What lens is on it? At this point, the lens probably has a higher resale value than the body. If I were considering buying it, I would plan on sending the body in to Canon for a thorough cleaning and service, so thats going to be three hundred or more.

What's it worth to you? A grand? Eight hundred? Do a search on E-Bay for similar cams in the 'past' auctions, and see what they've gone for.