no matter how good the filter/coatings is, u'll always get flare and the resultant loss of contrast in the captured image. i use a uv filter like a lens cap...it comes off when i shoot, especially in direct sunlight. so u pay ,multiple 1000's of dollars for that lens, to get optical quality, and then put a piece of flat glass over the top of it? kinda dumb, if you ask me. those UV filters are exactly that...UV. Stray light in the visible wavelengths bounce around off the planar surfaces of the filter and wreak havoc with the image contrast.

people assume that filters have AR coatings on them, and most do. But AR coatings are not 100% effective at all angles of incidence. AR coatings are wavelength dependent, so even if you can filter blues, for example, there's always some leakage that gets worse as the angle of incidence increases. the best solution is a well coated filter combined with the use of a matte box.

I will frequently use my camera at my model flying club where exposure to model engine exhaust will be likely. Don't get me wrong, I won't be strapping the A1 to a model and wiping it down afterward. It's just that I know after a long day out there, I feel the oil on my skin and it's only logical to assume that an unprotected lens will be contaminated to some degree. I will be using a clear filter. From what I gather reading the previous threads on this subject, the use of a multi-coated filter should not degrade the picture quality. Especially for my purposes of just having a good time with it.

Unless the 'protection' is directly related to a CHL. Then you pray that you never have to use it. ;-)

To add in my .02, a good quality multi-coated, low profile UV filter for the most part. But I'll remove it for many situations where I want the least amount of degradation from image to lens. One person said it best here a while back...filters, by their very nature, always remove something. They never add anything.

-gb-

My .02 is that in all of the years of shooting I've never had an issues with getting scratches on the lens. Of course, if I was about to shoot something that could cause a scratch--say model airplanes at close range, some sort of mechanical process, or perhaps a construction site--then yes. Otherwise why bother? I'm of the opinion that if something happens while the camera is under my control I'm willing to bet a scratched lens would be the least of my problems; i.e. a UV filter won't help a dropped camera.

I had an HC1 take a fall on a tripod. The camera required a six week visit and $500 in repairs for a busted frame, tape transport and cracked circuit board.

Fortunately (to my relief), the UV protective lens survived the fall.

I'll bet the filter was glad it was wearing a protective camera. ;)

I agree with Noel. I only put on protection when when conditions get sketchy.
My XH-A1 likes the real feel.

Yes Wade, the camera saved the lens. Kinda like Murphy's law: "A $300 picture tube will save a 10 cent fuse from blowing."

Shooting any closeups there Larry?

I have a few comments and questions with regard to this thread.

1. Be careful with Hoya UV and ND filters. They apparently have a not very durable coating on them, according to other newsgroups. My first-hand experience with them is that the coating will fissure with Zeiss Pre-Moistened cleaning cloths. The Zeiss disposable cloths are based on lens tissue and isopropyl alcohol. I have never seen this happen to a regular lens, as opposed to a filter. I'll be replacing my Hoyas with B+W filters. The Hoyas were used on the Panasonic DVX-100.

2. I shoot near the water and there is always the possibility of salt spray getting on the filter or lens. What is the safest liquid based cleaning system to use on the filter or lens? The problem with the Zeiss cleaners has made me leery about using them (even) on the Canon lens. So, how do the pro's handle even better optics, such as Panavision lenses, when they need to liquid clean them? Breathe vapor on the lens? (I'll admit I use this technique in emergencies, rubbing the lens with a micro-fibre cloth).

3. To gain control over the lighting I find it preferable to use ND 2 and higher filters in front of the camera to get the f-stop that is appropriate to the scene. The two switchable ND "filter" settings on the camera are not enough. Thus, we are back to glass in front of the camera.