View Full Version : Why does my Merlin rock so much?
Glenn Gipson April 16th, 2007, 08:31 PM I just got my Merlin a few days ago, but I'm having problems with it rocking back and forth as I move. Does this mean that I am too top heavy? Or too bottom heavy? What could be the cause of this? I'm using it with a Canon Optura 300, thanks.
Richard Zlamany April 16th, 2007, 08:49 PM What's the drop time?
It sounds like it is too bottom heavy.
A 2 second drop time really makes the Merlin float.
Glenn Gipson April 16th, 2007, 10:16 PM What's the drop time?
It sounds like it is too bottom heavy.
A 2 second drop time really makes the Merlin float.
What exactly do you mean by drop time? Are you referring to when the camera is sort of flipped off balance and then returns to a level position?
Glenn Gipson April 16th, 2007, 10:23 PM Also, I can make it level as it holds still, but as soon as I move it just a bit the camera goes wobbling all over the place. I guess this isn't really giving any new information, but I was wondering if the problem is the setup or my lack of experience in moving with the stabilizer.
Nick Tsamandanis April 16th, 2007, 11:04 PM When you accelerate, deccelerate, go around corners you have to squeeze the gimbal really gently to stop the sway. This is something that you will get better at with lots of practice.
Charles Papert April 16th, 2007, 11:43 PM Glenn, I hate to sound pedantic, but if you just got your Merlin, the concept of drop time (or drop test) should be part of your new vocabulary--have you watched the video and/or thoroughly read the manual? (hint: p. 24!!). There's a lot to getting to the hang of this device, and the documentation is thorough and essential.
What you describe is potentially a balance issue, but more likely "new operator-itis", and you may be overcontrolling the rig. Try walking with little or no pressure on the gimbal at all and see if it behaves itself better--once you get started walking, actually release your fingers from the gimbal to see if your influence is what is causing the problems. This is not an operating technique, more a litmus test.
Glenn Gipson April 17th, 2007, 05:42 AM Thanks for the response.
So basically once the camera is balanced while it's still, it is essentially balanced correctly? Right? And the rest is up to the operator, right?
Sorry to be redundant, but I'm still a bit confused as to how to know if the rocking is due to my operation or simply bad camera/merlin balance. Is holding onto the gimbal essential to prevent this from every single gentle movement? I'll check out the manual again, and play with it a lot more to see....
Glenn Gipson April 17th, 2007, 07:45 AM I figured it out. I added more weight to the bottom and that helped, but the real problem is that I'm not holding onto the gimbal good enough when moving it. It's all practice from here on out. Thanks guys.
Charles Papert April 17th, 2007, 09:27 AM Glad to hear Glenn. So just to make sure, because adding weight to the bottom can give a false sense of stability, you did the drop test and it timed out to be about 1 second?
Also, as I think has been indicated here, "holding on to the gimbal" is the really subtle part of operating a Merlin--too little (or not at all!) will cause the rig to wander aimlessly, too much will result in rough looking, overcontrolled footage. The difference between the two is fractional. A feather-light guiding touch is all that is needed, although there are times when you need to apply just a bit more momentary pressure and other times when you dial back to essentially none. As you say, this will all come with practice.
Richard Zlamany April 17th, 2007, 10:10 AM One of the quickest ways to note the differences in setup is by doing a drop down test and then practicing. Just watch the DVD and it will explain it well.
Also, when you start to move with the Merlin it helps to bring it up and down just a little. This is demonstrated on the DVD when the operators are in the stairwell. This helps it stay balanced when starting and stopping.
I prefer a longer drop time (about 2 seconds) with vx2100, but your mileage may vary depending on your operating style and situation.
Glenn Gipson April 17th, 2007, 11:44 AM About that drop test....
I did it and the camera goes to the upright position in something like less than a second. The camera then continues to rock back and forth for a bit before leveling off. I'm assuming this is a drop test, right?
Afton Grant April 17th, 2007, 01:11 PM Glenn,
Consider the lower weight of the Merlin to be pointing at 6 O'clock when at rest (properly balanced). The drop test is when you tilt the rig so the lower weight is pointing at 3 O'clock (or 9). When you let go, time how long it takes the weight to sweep past 6 O'clock again - not come to rest.
As you describe it, you've got a drop time of less than a second, which is extremely fast.
Glenn Gipson April 17th, 2007, 01:33 PM Glenn,
Consider the lower weight of the Merlin to be pointing at 6 O'clock when at rest (properly balanced). The drop test is when you tilt the rig so the lower weight is pointing at 3 O'clock (or 9). When you let go, time how long it takes the weight to sweep past 6 O'clock again - not come to rest.
As you describe it, you've got a drop time of less than a second, which is extremely fast.
Ahhh, thank you, I understand now. My footage is still wobbly, and this is probably a big reason why.
Charles Papert April 17th, 2007, 06:49 PM I'm assuming this is a drop test, right?
Brother, I'm telling you...read the manual cover to cover, watch the DVD...even if you are the kind of guy that refuses to read directions (like most). This is not an intuitive machine to operate. A fast drop time probably isn't the cause of your wobbles.
Nick Tsamandanis April 17th, 2007, 07:15 PM Glenn, I agree with Charles, when I first got the Merlin I probably read the manual 5 times. There is so much info to assimilate.
Glenn Gipson April 18th, 2007, 12:24 PM I will definitely study the manual, thanks guys.
Glenn Gipson April 19th, 2007, 05:54 PM Man, this thing is awesome, it's worth every penny!
Mikko Wilson April 20th, 2007, 12:04 AM See... The Merlin really does ROCK! :)
- Mikko
Tom Vandas April 22nd, 2007, 03:29 AM Glenn, sounds like you've figured it out, but for anyone else with this problem you shouldn't have any pendulim swing if you've balanced correctly.
In the included DVD, Garrett Brown shows how a well-balanced Merlin should behave by moving the Merlin side-to-side and forwards/backwards with no resulting movement of the arm from the vertical position. I'm able to do the same thing on my Merlin.
Once you've achieved the proper balance, it's much easier to learn to actually use the Merlin since you're not fighting the physics of an unbalanced arm.
Learning how to apply the right soft touch to the gimball so that you don't impart unwanted motion to the setup? Well, that takes a whole lot of practice!
Rob Hughes April 30th, 2007, 04:58 AM I just got my merlin last week and have so far just about kinda got it balanced....ish....
But one of my slight concerns are with the trimming screws - on the video, they seem to move really easily - mine often take quite a grip to move them.
so....is this a) because i'm using a sony z1, which is heavy? or b) its new and they need to loosen up a bit or c) i need to add some WD40 or loosen a screw somewhere?
Also - when i've got my Z1 flying, as i try to turn a corner, it banks slightly....ie, the bottom weights swing out a bit. Is this a sign of bottom heaviness?
any advice would be welcome.
Cheers,
Rob.
Dale Baglo April 30th, 2007, 09:14 AM I'm using a very light camera (HV20) and those blue trim rollers are fairly stiff on my Merlin too, so I don't think it's a function of camera weight. I've learned to put a fair amount of pressure on them if I want them to move.
Mikko Wilson April 30th, 2007, 11:36 AM The blue trim rollers should not be super tight. Try and have the Merlin level when you use the rollers - trying to trim the camera "uphill" does make the rollers a little stiffer.
Whatever you do, DON'T USE WD-40 on any Steadicam. It's penetrating cleaner that displaces all the lubricant's already in the system.
That "banking" (AKA: "Penduluming") is in deed due to the rig being slightly bottom heavy. It shouldn't be excessive, however you do want the unit *slightly* bottom heavy so that it hangs upright. Learning to anticipate, and then counteract, that pendulum with your control hand is one of the many things that just comes with practice with Steadicam.
- Mikko
Matt Davis April 30th, 2007, 12:45 PM That "banking" (AKA: "Penduluming") is indeed due to the rig being slightly bottom heavy ... Learning to anticipate, and then counteract, that pendulum with your control hand is one of the many things that just comes with practice with Steadicam.
Thus spake the voice of wisdom.
If I may chime in from the perspective of a newbie...
Although we're talking Merlin here, the principle scales well. The smallest 'big' steadicam rig is the Flyer, and it's well named.
Try a good flight simulator to learn about flying: you'll fly straight and level, but in order to turn a bit (yaw), you need a little positive rudder to start the turn, then a little negative rudder to end the turn. But to prevent the rudder from throwing the plane off balance, you need to tilt (ptich) the plane into the turn then untilt the plane coming out of the turn.
So to turn left by 15 degrees
- Pitch left a bit
- Yaw left a bit
- Approaching 12 degrees?
- Pitch right a bit
- Yaw right a bit
- Hit 15 degrees, level and trim.
So to turn left, you turn left, wait, then turn right and then level up. !?! So on a Merlin/Flyer with a bit of bottom-heaviness, as you turn, there's the merest hint of tilt to correct - a bit of un-yaw, if you will. You may be able to do it 'by the force alone', but a bit of thumb will do the trick.
It's that almost counterintuitive subtle twitch, mere pressure on the gimbal, that gets a good start and a good stop. Very Jedi.
Every Steadicam Newbie's bugbear is the pendulum movement when we come to a stop. A slower drop time will help, but at the expense of more 'help' at the gimbal. You need to give a little push (in the right direction) to start and a little pull (in the opposite direction) to end. Less so as your drop time increases, but then you have to be absolutely accurate in the direction in which you push.
No, it's not easy. We're not commuting to work, we ain't dusting crops. Flying a camera is aerobatics.
Matt - just finished 3 days with a straight 20' bare patch of lawn and a big + of gaffer tape on the back of the shed.
Rob Hughes April 30th, 2007, 01:39 PM OK OK....i'll leave off the WD40!!
So none of those little screws/nuts will loosen the trim rollers at all?
Cuz when i first got the merlin, i couldn't adjust the arc distance without first loosening off one of the screws - it was proper tight? Maybe mine was put together by popeye?!!
Matt, as i was reading your post, it took me back to the microsoft flight sim days! (although i got bored of that pretty quick!!) But i see what you mean - you use the control hand to keep the merlin doing as you want, not what mother nature and that newton bloke wants it to do....practice practice for me then!!
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