I had someone ask me for footage of the moon.

I've tried for the last week to get something other then a VERY bright WHITE "dot" in the sky.

I've tried all the tricks, read TONS of bulletin boards.

So tell me please, how do I film it in GOOD detail?

Dave, you definitely need to stop down as much as you can and use ND filters. As far as good detail, do you consider the footage below good enough?

www.georgedavidfilms.com/samples/MoonShot.mov

Dave, you definitely need to stop down as much as you can and use ND filters. As far as good detail, do you consider the footage below good enough?

Windows:
www.georgedavidfilms.com/samples/MoonShot.wmv

Mac:
www.georgedavidfilms.com/samples/MoonShot.mov




You might want to check your computer for viruses.
I tried the wmv, it downloaded, screen went 100% black, flashed a bunch, computer shut off, when I try to restart it just runs windows welcome screen.

Jump on my other computer to type this and am going to run it through a virus checker.

No offense, but I can watch any movie on my cimputer, yours just... is not working.

quicktime worked perfectly for the second one.
WMV is no no.
What were your settings on the camera, any filters, what speed was it all that good stuff!
Oh yes, what camera was it?

Dave, sorry about the wmv file and I'll definitely check my PC for viruses. I also removed the wmv link. I used an HD100u using the stock lens at almost full telephoto. ND2 filter, I think f stop at f11. I sped it up 8x in post. I see a little bit of CA around the moon. I think with the nicer lenses, CA would disappear completely at full tele. Good luck.

George

Speaking of the bright white dot from your first post, here's something funky: Turn the moon into a freaky looking sun :-)

www.georgedavidfilms.com/samples/moontofreakysun.mov

Dave, even though this pic is taken with the Canon XLH1, I hope this can illustrate the capability of the camcorders in our range!

Technical data:
Camcorder - Canon XLH1 + ef-adapter
Lens - Sigma 300mm f2.8
Aperture - 11
Shutter - 1/50 (PAL)

If you can't get a shot, it may be a sign that the goddess Selene is demanding a sacrifice.

Slightly more seriously, even though it's night, you have to treat it like daytime in terms of exposure because the moon is lit directly by the sun.

It'll look more 3-dimensional if you shoot at half or quarter phase rather than a full moon. Also, the stock lens isn't really long enough. You could shoot HDV and zoom-in for a standard def delivery or you could try a 35mm lens adapter and whack a big still lens on the front like Per Johan did (good job Per)

Failing that, get a stock shot.

Liam.

The moon is sunlit so the "sunny 16" rule applies. Take the inverse of your camera's effective ASA as shutter speed, then the correct aperture is f16. Next add ND, polarizer, etc. and extrapolate correct exposure for the shutter or aperture you choose taking ND and/or polarizer compensation into account. Exposure per rule for moon is approximate, given unknowns such as atmospheric attenuation, etc.

hmmm. RTFM? (couldn't resist)
There is a switch on the lens control mudule near the zoom rocker that puts the exposure in manual. Then you will be able to turn the iris ring on the lens.
It's hard to beleive that you bought this camera without figuring this out, since manual control in the style of broadcast cameras is one prime distinctions of this camcorder.

Per Johan, that's a beautiful shot!!

What would be an equivilent adapter for the 110U that is like the ef-adapter used on his Canon?

Sample stills at http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=67201

Expose for the lunar surface, which is bright daylight... typically f/8 or smaller, plus ND

Sample stills at http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=67201

Expose for the lunar surface, which is bright daylight... typically f/8 or smaller, plus ND
The luminance of the moon is the sum of the light from the sky and the light from the moon. Atmoshere, altitude and local light pollution will greatly affect this, not to mention the phase of the moon, the time of day and most importantly your shutter speed, aperture and your camera's sensitivity.

Since the average video camera won't be able to handle such a high contrast exposure your best bet is to bracket your exposure. After all it's up there all night, every night...

lol, yes - i know and use that control - when i wrote that it was about 2am in sydney and the expression f-stop was not ringing any bells whatsoever - my apologise (yes i have read the *&*cking manual lol)

What would be an equivilent adapter for the 110U that is like the ef-adapter used on his Canon?

You would want one of the adaptors that doesn't use ground glass but rather just let the lens project straight onto the sensor. There was one posted around here a while back, lemme see if I can dig it up...

EDIT: Aha, here it is:

http://dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=88195

Bear in mind you would have to find some manual focus/iris lenses because electronic coupling will not work anymore. Canon's EF lenses are right out.