Maybe adding more time options for the Focus / Zoom preset key!! slower and faster, with ease in and out options and a delay after the click...

Heh! Heh! Now I want all of these functions! So many great suggestions. How am I ever going to decide when it comes to the poll!

time lapse feature !!!

Chris, I'm wondering if all these choices are overkill.

Looking at the list, it's almost two different polls - one a firmware upgrade request, and the second a wishlist for the next camera revision. Maybe two polls are an option that would still allow everyone to express their wishes without undercutting our request for a few basic features in a near future firmware upgrade.

Just throwing this out there to try and be realistic, so we don't dilute our message.

I think the idea is that through the polls we can express democratically what the top requests are for a firmware update for the camera.

Certainly there are a couple of things that Canon should probably fix (bugs) regardless of whether they listen to us or not. But there is no reason why *most* of the rest of the items on the list could not be implemented by firmware.

The top (I can't remember how many) items may well get styled into a firmware update request to Canon. The rest may well get put on a wishlist for future revisions.

Again, Canon may pay us no attention whatsoever, but if we don't ask we certainly don't get.

"Quote:
- Exp. Lock disables AGC

How would you switch for this function?"

I can't think of a reason why anyone would want to lock exposure and still have AGC functioning, but if necessary, we could have a menu optiion to select whether Exposure Lock disables AGC or not.

Richard

I don't understand the disabling of the color bar switch.
...Holly mentioned several posts ago she would like this so she "can permanently remove the tape" which never made sense to me... She meant, so she could permanently remove the little piece of gaff tape she had placed over that switch to lock it off.

ohhhhhh! Now it's clear. I was like... huh? Thanks Chris

Compared to the Sony V1, the peaking is definitely less functional. Let me propose one more item to the wishlist: customizable colour and intensity level of peaking (ironically, when you change to black&white for easier focusing, the peaking gets even less distinctive - should be red or yellow!)
I've been thinking: if I was the only one to complain about the peaking not being distinctive enough, perhaps it's just me? I mean, do all of you think it's OK? Personally, it's just not bright enough, and -given it can only be white - invalidates the very purpose of switching to BW for easier focusing. Please let me know if you share my opinion, because otherwise something must be wrong with my unit.

What I find a large lack is that the camera makers, Canon, but also Sony in this case, are not really helping the users focus.

Canon made it even worse by making the screen smaller. Both of the camera makers use the "expanded focus" button which enables you to quick-zoom to see a part of the picture up in detail so you can see if its focussed right.

But sadly enough this feature does not function while filming, and I hate that!
The only usefull focussing function the cameras at this moment is the "push to focus" which helps correcting manual focus but Canon is forcing me to look trough the viewfinder very closely to see if I got the focus right, and sadly enough, too many times I am off a little.

So, my firmware upgrade request is: "Anything that helps me focussing, in low or bright light"

And one thing to do this is enabling the "expanded focus" while filming. (it can't be hard to zoom in on a bit of the picture without having to write that to tape but show it on the LCD)

And about the Intermedia steps in gain, I would like to see that in the lower regions, so 4db for example. Well, it would actually be great so see every step selectable...from -3 up to 36db. The more step options, the better!

I think focusing assist is OK for the camera of this size and price. I had no big problems so far in different situations, but I agree: if possible, Canon should improve peaking by making it brighter and easier to interpret.

On the other hand, maybe we should be a little bit more forgiving and remember professional HD viewfinder can cost as much as the whole XH-A1 cam.

You're right Bogdan, but have you seen the peaking with the Z1 or V1? It's much better and customizable, even though the LCD is bigger and focusing is easier than with the Canon anyway; ironically the A1 offers so many custom settings in other areas (many more than V1), but NOT for peaking color/intensity which would be very appropriate considering its smaller LCD and less DOF than the V1's...

Well, you can't have everything - but this thread is all about wishes, so what the heck?!

Yes, I know what you're talking about. There is nothing that couldn't be better. Let's demand. Maybe they will deliver :)

My first addition to the wishlist has been customizable peaking, now that I have played with the cam for a couple of days, I'd like two more things:

- focus ring more precize=less sensitive
- ND display (warning and ND1/ND2 differentiation)

Still looking for input on this post I made here:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showpost.php?p=610013&postcount=95

Can't move forward without it. Thanks in advance,

OK, I'll weigh in as best I can.

1. Shutter speed - I think the dvx remembered everything, just sold mine so I can't check.

2. Exp lock - OK, nevermind.

3. TV mode - don't use it, no suggestions.

4. CP/shtter scroll - seems impractical. If cp names were displayed on the LCD, I'd be happy.

5. exp lock/agc - no interest in this one.

6. NR1 & 2 - don't use them, but it seems too hard to define for this poll.

7. Gain - never shoot higher than +6, I'm happy with gain.

8. Night mode - don't use it, but it seems too hard to define for this poll.

9. 50f - not a pal user, can't help.

10. Lower WB- Seems excessive to me, cam already has a great wb feature.

11. Photo buttons as custom keys - agree with your greatest flexibility suggestion.

12. AWB as OIS - I agree, this seems redundant, other suggestion to make mappable to custom keys better.

13. Fine tune LCD - The LCD is what it is, not a biggier for me.

I think because it's such a long thread, people who made some of these suggestions may have dropped in and aren't going to drop back, so you might have to make some judgement calls. Hope some of this helps, can't wait to get this poll up.

... can't wait to get this poll up.
Me too.

Chris, maybe you set a deadline for precising the "second batch"-wishes. If we don't get any input by the end of the deadline, we could only use "first batch"-wishes for the poll.

1. Previous Shutter Speed - The A1 *does* remember the previous shutter speed EXCEPT when you switch to Tv from Auto it defaults to 1/25th. If you switch to Tv from Av the previous shutter setting is restored. I think that might be a bug!

2. Exposure Lock - Most people who want semi-auto exposure controls will probably be working in Tv or Av. I see no point to this.

3. Exposure Override in Tv - I'd like the ability to shift the exposure up or down by a couple of stops using the iris ring.

4. CP Select By Shutter Wheel - I'd rather have them selected by the menu scroller thingy... Press the CP button, then hit up or down to go through them.

5. Exposure Lock Disables AGC - Can't really see the point of this... what's wrong with the AGC switch?

6. NR1 & 2 - I agree that this is too hard to define

7. Intermediate Gain - +9dB would be nice, but not essential

8. Night Mode Improvement - not specific enough for firmware update

9. 50i to 25f - why? I agree with you Chris - shoot 25F

10. WB Below 2800K - I agree this seems excessive.

11. Photo Buttons - Um... I can't help think this would get confusing.

12. AWB as OIS - Seems confusing.

13. Fine tune LCD - Already have a good range of controls.

- Exp. Lock is Push AE in Manual mode


Already available... in Tv mode, press Exp. Lock once to shoot in full manual; press Exp. Lock again for AE. In other words, all you have to do in order to shoot in full manual with Push AE from the Exp. Lock button, is to use the Tv program mode instead of the M program mode... there is no difference between the two modes (Manual vs. Tv with Exp. Lock), except the availability of Push AE.

Not really... EXP lock is Push AE in manual mode
If it was available in manual mode, it will function similar as the Push AF button. (That is a temporarily override as long as you push the button.) Now, in manual mode the EXP Lock button is doing nothing.

You can get similar action in TV mode by [push out Exposure Lock] wait for AE level...and [push on Exposure Lock] to go back to manual. You need to push 'twice' because it locks to the function. That is normal behavior, it is even written on it: EXP. LOCK !!
What I want is: EXP lock functions as Push AE in manual mode.

Sure, you can workaround with the TV mode, but it's slow and definitely not the same.

Not really...

Yes... really.

It works exactly as I have described. Tv mode plus Exp. Lock equals Manual mode. There is no difference, except that shooting this way in Tv mode is better than shooting in Manual mode because it offers exactly what you want: the ability to switch between automatic exposure control and manual exposure control at the push of a button.

Honestly I can't sympathize with your complaint about having to push the Exp. Lock button a second time; after all it really doesn't take much effort to lift a finger.

- ND display (warning and ND1/ND2 differentiation)
1. Perhaps I should be more precise: It's there already, but not in Auto mode (why?) and NOT with AGC off (which we usually use that way), so practically it never fires. It should.

2. Also I'd like all setting to be possible to display on a TV in playback (focus discance used, iris, zoom distance, shutther speed etc). Very helpful in analyzing shoots.

3. Speaking of AGC: I'd like to use it sometimes, but have an option to set a max gain value the camcorder will never exceed (AGC limit).

EDIT: sorry, I'm still learning; of course the gain, f and F values CAN be displayed at playback (camera data on, available in disply menu in playback mode only); nevertheless the focus/zoom values should be displayable as well.

The poll is now open for voting...

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=84297

Here are the poll options which made the final cut:

OIS On / Off mappable to Custom Key
XLR On / Off mappable to Custom Key
Default Shutter speed in 25F of 1/50th
Additional Shutter speeds (1/33rd and/or 1/40th)
Option to display Shutter values in degrees
Preset maximum Gain value for AGC
Add intermediate steps in Gain (+9db, +15db)
F. Asst. Mag. on displays / analog out during Rec.
Allow Peaking and Zebra together
Customize Peaking color and intensity
Option to flip image (but not displays) in viewfinders
Option to flip image to tape and over video outputs
Move AE Shift function from menu to iris ring
Histogram On / Off for Video (record and playback)
Display active C. Preset name (record and playback)
Display lens info (focus and zoom) on playback
Display remaining battery time in real minutes
Function setting for Long Push of "End Play" button
Soft clipping / limiter in Manual Audio mode
Allow digital zoom in Standard Definition recording
Option: AF off during zoom (prevent focus pulsing)
Photo buttons as optional Custom Keys

-------------------------------------------------------

There were two items which didn't make the list. One was "remember shutter speed (from A to Tv) on power-up." If I recall correctly this has never been available on a Canon XL or GL camcorder in the past.

The other was "CP select via menu Set wheel." That wheel already performs constant duty as the headphone volume controller. If you set your Custom Key #2 to "CP Select Backward," then you've got a fairly convenient way to shuttle back and forth between the Custom Presets. Pretty easy once you get used to it.

WOOHOO!

Thanks, Chris, you're the man.

Feel good about this,especially after the HV20 announcement, seems like Canon listens and responds.

Gotta go vote...

Thanks Chris.

Thank you!

Feel good about this,especially after the HV20 announcement, seems like Canon listens and responds.
Yes, makes me hope too that we might get heard. Thanks again, Chris, Stu, Alex and all who contributed.

And thank you Michael for pushing this along!

Yes... really.

It works exactly as I have described. Tv mode plus Exp. Lock equals Manual mode. There is no difference, except that shooting this way in Tv mode is better than shooting in Manual mode because it offers exactly what you want: the ability to switch between automatic exposure control and manual exposure control at the push of a button.

Honestly I can't sympathize with your complaint about having to push the Exp. Lock button a second time; after all it really doesn't take much effort to lift a finger.


Not ...really.

It works in completely different mode. In TV mode you have ful range F1.6 - F22 aperture! In Manual mode F1.6 - F9.5 and close. The TV mode has a longer electronic aperture control. And push is not the same as lock as I described above. The Exposure is different in TV mode as in Manual mode.

BTW: I find it strange that you ask people what they think is important for a future upgrade, and that you -Chris- decide to put things in the poll or not. Other 'lift one finger issues' like setting it from standard 25p to 50p are in. And the 'push mode in manual' not. Do you decide for me what is important?

Do you decide for me what is important?No. I would never pretend to decide for anybody what is important.

Instead I decide for my site what is important. If you disagree with it, then you really need to start your own site / message board / blog / whatever, and run it the way *you* want and make your own decisions. Hope this helps,

That is something completely different Chris, to start a blog. I already have one. But that was not the point. That the aperture in TV mode goes up to F22 and the lens itself to F9,5 seems to be import info for your site. But to my surprise, that was not the thing you noticed in my posting!

I think I made my point very clear, what the difference is in Manual and TV mode and the difference in push iris (like push focus) and lock iris. That is my opinion. Until now,your arguments (it's the same) are not very valid.

The very small aperture values of f/22, f/17 and so on are possible in Tv mode or A mode only, and only when the shutter speed is set to a very slow speed, or when gain is increased, or when Neutral Density should be used but isn't. There is a very important reason why those values do not belong in M manual mode.

Small aperture values (f/11 to f/22 etc.) in HD camcorders using small image sensors (i.e., every 1/3rd-inch HD camcorder) tend to induce an optical phenomenon known as diffraction (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction) which makes accurate focus impossible. In order to prevent diffraction, the smallest allowable aperture value that can be manually assigned to the camera is f/9.5. It is a safeguard against diffraction when shooting in manually in the M program mode.

However if the intention is to shoot at very slow shutter speeds, or at high gain (or for some reason, with Neutral Density off when it should be on), then the camcorder will indeed resort to very small lens aperture values from f/11 to f/22 in order to produce a usable, not ideal, but usable image under those user-induced circumstances. At this point diffraction is no longer an issue because the image is already compromised by the effects of slow shutter or high gain, but at least these effects are intentional since they were induced on purpose by the shooter.

In other words, small aperture values (f/11 to f/22) are not at all desirable in this class of HD camcorders because of the diffraction effect. There are three conditions in either Tv mode or A mode in which the camera will resort to these very small aperture values in order to produce a usable image:

1. very slow shutter speeds,
2. a high gain setting,
3. ND off when it should be on

It is *not* possible to manually dial in an aperture value below f/9.5, nor would you want to do this, as it would induce the diffraction effect (which destroys the ability to focus properly).

It *is* possible to force an aperture value aperture value below f/9.5, if your main priority is to shoot with a very slow shutter speed (hence the name "shutter priority" for Tv mode) or with a high gain setting in Tv or A mode.

If for some reason you want a very small aperture value, the best way to get it is to shoot in Tv mode with either a slow shutter speed or a high gain setting. Use the Exp. Lock button to fix the aperture at the small value, and then change shutter speed and/or gain accordingly. You'll then have an f/22 aperture with shutter and gain where you want it... plus the confounding focus problems associated with the diffraction effect.

Small aperture values are a non-issue with slow shutter and/or high gain, because the effects of a slow shutter speed and/or a high gain setting will degrade the image to the point where diffraction is not a problem (and such degradation is perfectly acceptable when it's intentional).

However with a standard shutter speed (or higher), and with gain low (or off), and with the proper use of Neutral Density filters (two of which are built into the camera), any aperture setting smaller than f/9.5 will induce diffraction. That's why f/9.5 is the smallest possible aperture value in the M manual mode. If these cameras allowed the manual input of smaller aperture values from f/11 to f/22, a shooter unfamiliar with the effects of diffraction would think the camera is broken because they're unable to focus properly at f/15 or any of those aperture settings.

And while it is still possible to manually induce diffraction, the manufacturer has made it difficult for the shooter to commit this mistake: the only way to do it is to set the gain high and point the camera at a very bright source of light in Tv or A mode, and then lower the gain and/or press Exp. Lock to manually change shutter speed.

There is no logical reason to change that.

Not ...really.

It works in completely different mode. In TV mode you have ful range F1.6 - F22 aperture! In Manual mode F1.6 - F9.5 and close. The TV mode has a longer electronic aperture control. And push is not the same as lock as I described above. The Exposure is different in TV mode as in Manual mode.

Thanks Raymond for pointing this out, and Chris for further explanation. With the deficit of light we have in this time of year, I wouldn't have noticed that in Tv mode the aperture can indeed go so low (and cause difraction effects)! It's not documented in the manual well enough; if I remember correctly (don't have the manual handy at the moment), it only states what aperture value can be adopted in the Manual and Av modes (up to 9.5) but doesn't say a single word about apertures available in the Tv mode - kind of strange, considering the possible effects on the picture quality. BTW, it's also strange to me that in Av mode you can only dial the apertures up to 9.5 (just as in full Manual) - the aperture priority would seem THE right mode for the greatest freedom of choosing any aperture value, mechanically achievable by the machine! Hmm....this leads to a question: we now know what the diference between Manual and Shutter Priority modes is; how does the Aperture Priority (Av) mode differ from Manual after locking exposure? Any surprises in this department, as well?