Well... it's a 'box' around a light, designed to soften it... so yeah, it's a DIY 'softbox'. Thats the properties I've been critiquing it on. Like I said, it's an elegant solution, especially for controlling spill... which is one of the bigger problems using worklights. That's why there are tutorials for building barndoors for them. This eliminates the usual barn door solution in favor of attaching a 'softbox'. Again, my primary concern for the softness, is the shallow depth of the pan. Aside from that, a cheap fix for low budget filmmaking.

Pro softboxes will have 'egg crate' grills that attach to the front, this helps to cut down on spill. Some have fabric 'barn doors' that velcro to the edges, but I've never really found those very usefull. A flag on a c - stand will do a better job. But if you've got flags, and c - stands... you're probably not doing this.

Where can you get those egg crate grills?

Also, I have noticed the baking tins are very flimsy (I only got the cheap $1.00 store one). Maybe the turkey ones are more rigid?

Where can you get those egg crate grills?

Also, I have noticed the baking tins are very flimsy (I only got the cheap $1.00 store one). Maybe the turkey ones are more rigid?


Well yes they are only foil so obviously not going to be all that sturdy. Thats the joy of them. If they get smashed make a new one for a buck. I didnt get a chance to hunt for the deeper ones last night, but Ill look around soon. Have another shoot tonight, so see how it goes.

Hey Ryan, Just an Idea if you are really looking for some "depth" using the same kinda stuff.....They sell the cheap flat cookie sheets made of the same stuff(probably in the same Aisle at Walmart or Miejer)& you could get 4 of those and easily construct a traditional softbox shape and probably a pretty deep one. The joints could either be taped or just crimped(even pop-rivets if you please). Maybe I will try it too and see what I can come up with. Stuff like this is fun to me.

If you go to "cut" this stuff, be careful because it maybe sharp like an aluminum can.

I still say your original idea is cheap, easy, portable & with great diffusion. Lets keep building on it.

I'm not a pro-am videographer. Just an indie musician trying to do some stuff on budget for simple apps.

That light diffuser tutorial was incredibly helpful. Thanks, Ryan.

Best,

Charles

I'm not a pro-am videographer. Just an indie musician trying to do some stuff on budget for simple apps.

That light diffuser tutorial was incredibly helpful. Thanks, Ryan.

Best,

Charles

Np got your email. Ill keep in touch. Its nice to have local people to bs about video and whatnot. ;)

Yes, I'll be doing most of the bs-ing...I know nothing about this stuff..Strictly amateur. Just trying to improvise ;-)

Say, I am unencumbered by knowledge so I am going to throw out this possible suggestion for Ryan's work light solution.

Someone here mentioned that the distance from element to diffuser was too short. I don't know why that matters - but for now, I'm going to assume that it *does* matter.

Assuming you build the softbox the way Ryan suggests (with EZ Foil Pans). Could you then not attach white foamcore pieces to the foil to effectively extend the "box"? Then attach the diffusion material?

There is a foamcore softbox solution mentioned here:

http://www.studiolighting.net/foam-core-homemade-softbox/

If the foamcore doesn't actually touch the light element, would it still be in danger of melting?

Thoughts, warnings?

Charles

I've used the oil drip pans from the automotive isle at wallymart to build sheet metal boxes using a rivit gun.... then had them powder coated.... looks pretty good.... mind you, my project was with 24" daylight flo's.

Say, I am unencumbered by knowledge so I am going to throw out this possible suggestion for Ryan's work light solution.

Someone here mentioned that the distance from element to diffuser was too short. I don't know why that matters - but for now, I'm going to assume that it *does* matter.

Assuming you build the softbox the way Ryan suggests (with EZ Foil Pans). Could you then not attach white foamcore pieces to the foil to effectively extend the "box"? Then attach the diffusion material?

There is a foamcore softbox solution mentioned here:

http://www.studiolighting.net/foam-core-homemade-softbox/

If the foamcore doesn't actually touch the light element, would it still be in danger of melting?

Thoughts, warnings?

Charles

Im trying foamcore sheets at a shoot this week, but Im just going to use my lights with the diffusers and aim them at the foam core to bounce the light back at the model. Playing around to see how it goes. ;)

Ryan,

Where do you get your supplies like foamcore, gaffer tape etc?

Charles

Ryan,

Where do you get your supplies like foamcore, gaffer tape etc?

Charles

Gaffer tape I got from when I worked for crew one as a rigger hehe. Foamcore should be available at lowes or home depot, but my partner that does still photography has a few sheets.

you can get white and black foam-core at any wallymart.... and guerilla duck tape is the most hard core black duct tape I've ever used.... spensive, but strong.

I've been a still photog professionally for over 20 years... and foamcore/gator board is a must have in my studio and on location. I've built entire sets with 4'X8' foam-core.... and even a temp darkroom with black gatorboard. ( gatorboard is like foam-core, but with a firmer foam inner.... you can get it as thick as 2" )

Find the closest hot air balloon manufacturer and get a few yards of their flame proof fabric. it's a little thicker than regular scrimming fabric, but lots of peace of mind; I have several yards of the stuff, ordered it over the phone from someone in Ft. Worth as I recall; I use it often with my 6" fresnels when I need more soft light, and those babies are lamped at 650 to 1000 watts. I just pull the lenses and slide the lamps to the front (flood) position.

And I'm with the "diffusion's too close in these solutions" camp... even a 3' softbox is just a fairly hard light once it gets a few feet away... nice for closeups, but for broad, soft light, I'm still a believer in hanging big sheets of white fabric from c-stands and using 4x8 black foam to control it. essentially you end up with 4' x 8' softboxes this way, with a big enough sweet spot that talent can really move around, all for a couple bucks.

Find the closest hot air balloon manufacturer and get a few yards of their flame proof fabric. it's a little thicker than regular scrimming fabric, but lots of peace of mind; I have several yards of the stuff, ordered it over the phone from someone in Ft. Worth as I recall; I use it often with my 6" fresnels when I need more soft light, and those babies are lamped at 650 to 1000 watts. I just pull the lenses and slide the lamps to the front (flood) position.

And I'm with the "diffusion's too close in these solutions" camp... even a 3' softbox is just a fairly hard light once it gets a few feet away... nice for closeups, but for broad, soft light, I'm still a believer in hanging big sheets of white fabric from c-stands and using 4x8 black foam to control it. essentially you end up with 4' x 8' softboxes this way, with a big enough sweet spot that talent can really move around, all for a couple bucks.

Thats good if you have a large room or studio to work in, but we change location frequently, and space is always at a premium. We have been bouncing the lights and diffusers I made off the ceiling a bit if things get too bright. We're going to try the diffusers plus bouncing off the foam core this week and see how that goes.

The 'source' for your soft light, is the last surface it departs from. That's why the larger the 'face' of the softbox, the broader and softer the light. Hence the need for the actual element to be further away from it. You don't want a concentrated hot spot to show up on the white surface. If you bounce the small soft element onto a 4x8 softcard like foamcore, than you'll wind up with a much softer 4x8 'light' to work with. That's great. Of course the trip TO the surface of the bounce element and then FROM the surface of the bounce element diminishes the intensity of the light. Remember, light falls off at the inverse square of the distance. So it happens exponentially.

How soft is the light from the sand-blasted worklight?
Can you show us pictures taken with this reportedly nice light? Thanks!

used diffuser and reflector combination today on a shoot and worked out beautifully.

Hey Ryan

Are you saying that the work light/ezfoil/diffuser improv was shone onto reflectors? Did you use foamcore or regular reflectors?

Just wondering.

Charles

I guess we'll ever know exactly how soft the sandblasted worklight is.

Is there a reversible way to soften a halogen worklight? I'm thinking of spreading something like face powder over it. Something removable.

I just wanted to take a second to thank Ryan for his excellent tutorial on making a soft box, I've been using these workshop lights for a few months now but the extent of my diffusing was simply bouncing the light off nearby walls, I'm sure your softbox idea will be much more practical in the future, heh.

Hey Ryan

Are you saying that the work light/ezfoil/diffuser improv was shone onto reflectors? Did you use foamcore or regular reflectors?

Just wondering.

Charles

I used actual reflector material in this case rather than foamcore, though I had both available. I had stands to use for the reflectors so it gave me more ability to position them how I needed. I dont always have those available though. Sorry for my neglect in responding but Ive been in Vegas all week for an industry trade show. Just got back yesterday.

I just wanted to take a second to thank Ryan for his excellent tutorial on making a soft box, I've been using these workshop lights for a few months now but the extent of my diffusing was simply bouncing the light off nearby walls, I'm sure your softbox idea will be much more practical in the future, heh.

No problem I just hope it was useful to some people. :)

Hey Ryan

No problem. Thanks.

Charles

Ok here is the vid I did of how to make these, and a bit of eye candy at the end of a model we were shooting. I wouldnt say its nsfw, but it is a cute girl in a tanktop and santa hat hehe.

http://www.varaoke.com/diffuser.html

This is the embedded link, for those of you that have .flv players you can do the direct download if you like here

http://www.varaoke.com/diffuser.flv The file is about 63mb so some connections might have difficulties with streaming the embedded. If it chops pause it for a while and let it buffer the whole way. Let me know what you think.

This was quick and dirty, and just barely edited it. I may do a prettier version later, but too much going on right now to spend much time on it.

That was awesome and honestly the best work light difuser tutorial I have ever seen. And the girl at the end WOW. What can I say. I actually bought a similar work light but from Sears that I will try it with. I am definitely sold on that. Great job! And I will try the same!

I have some feedback. Part of the genius of this solution is its affordability and that if the crew complained about craft services, just remove the soft box, fill with 2 cans of tuna (drained), cover with breadcrumbs and 1/3 cup diced celery, bake for 40 minutes and Presto! Tuna Casserole!

OMG that is too funny! LOL

Anyone know where I can see that video? The link seems to be broken now. Thanks!

Anyone know where I can see that video? The link seems to be broken now. Thanks!

Ditto on that

Stephen,

Not to burst your bubble...

On the one hand you need diffused light, but on the other hand you also need a broad source. Broader the light source softer it is.

So if you're trying to really get a "SoftBox" effect then what you should really do is mount a diffusion layer a bit away from the lights. Bedsheet, Rip-Stop Nylon etc.

There are two advantages to this:
1. The diffusion material is away from the heat source thus reducing the risk of fire.
2. The light is a broad source. That is from the subject's (or cameras) point of view, the light is emitting from a broad source.

Now diffusing those light might be a good idea in and of itself, but a softlight it will not make.

I've used these lights and done the glass bit and then moved to the Rip-Stop nylon and that was a whole lot better.

The other issue with those lights is the heat and of course the power consumption. Mine are 1200W at full bright. Each light has a 300W halogen and there are two.

You can get the same light output with practically no heat using CFLs. Mount them in a home made enclosure and put some rip-stop nylon in front of them and you've got a really great soft box.

Or you can do what I eventually did (after experimenting with both suggestions above).

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=103871

Shiv.

We did some shower curtain tests:

Y.A.F.I.:Underground Media (http://www.yafiunderground.com/index.php?page=lighting_distances)

I used a 500W halogen site/work light for a film in the past. The light had baking paper over the front to soften the light and after using it on and off for about an hour our living room started to fill up with noxious smoke. The components inside the light had seriously overheated and started to burn and melt. If the unit hadn't been self contained with the glass plate on the front to prevent oxygen getting in quickly I'm fairly certain it would have set on fire rather than just smouldered. As it was it smouldered for a good five minutes after turning it off at the socket.

I recommend not wrapping site/work lights in anything.

- don't make the same foolish mistake I did!

If you do get any smoke coming out of a site light that's overheated don't ever use it again as it's probably damaged inside - chuck it out - it's not worth the risk. In fact that goes for any light unit, unless you get it checked by an electrician.

That's what diffusion gel is for. It doesn't burn. But if you get it too close to the bulb it can burn. With some metal coat hangers and a pair of pliers you could make a gel holder for a work light. Or even easier, just hang a piece of gel from a C-stand.
Recently I saw one of those worklights with fluorescent bulbs. They're pretty soft.

It wasn't the baking paper that burnt Bill, the light itself overheated and burnt inside. It's important you don't prevent the light from losing heat by covering it up. The C stand is a good idea bill.

I don't know if this was suggested because I didn't read the whole thread. I started using diffused tungsten lights back in 1995 when DV format came out. This was before I had bought some Photoflex light domes. I used white umbrellas in front of my 1000w lights. The lights shot through the extended umbrellas attached to the light stand and produced very soft light. Now worries about fires as the umbrellas are far enough away from the lights. Used this set up for years. looks a whole lot more pro than using bed sheets and shower curtains. The umbrellas were like $25 each.