I just recieved my HV20 yesterday and was trying to purchace a wide angle lens.

Does anyone know what the difference between the WD-43 and the WD-H43?? B&H only stocks the WD-43 but other sites recommend the WD-H43 for the HV20.

Just curious if there was any difference between them.

Thanks,

Steve


EDIT: I might have answered my own question. Does the H stand for Hi-Def lens?

Hi Steve,
yes it does, according to Chris and it sounds logical.

I happen to own a WD43 and I personally think that the optical quality of it is well above the level needed for a good HD reproduction. But I still have to find out, as I haven't received my HV20 yet.

Greetings

I've been looking (but can't find from a reputable dealer) the WD-H43. Perhaps they're on a boat ??????? If anyone knows of a reputable etailer that has them in stock please send me a PM or email.

Also, I noticed the WD-H46 is available at BH: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&kw=CAWDH46&is=REG&Q=&O=productlist&sku=294241
The "H" in the part # would imply that it's hi-def compatalbe. Any obvious reason (other than slight increase in size) for not using it with a step-up ring?

THANKS
JohnG

I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts on this issue. Canon says that there is indeed a significant difference between the WD-H43 and the WD-43, though I don't know how much of this is marketing talking. I can't seem to find the WD-H43 anywhere in stock, so I was also thinking about the WD-H46 with a step up ring - it also happens to be cheaper given the unavailability of WD-H43s. Would there be any issues with use the WD-H46? Thanks in advance for any insight.

I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts on this issue. Canon says that there is indeed a significant difference between the WD-H43 and the WD-43, though I don't know how much of this is marketing talking. I can't seem to find the WD-H43 anywhere in stock, so I was also thinking about the WD-H46 with a step up ring - it also happens to be cheaper given the unavailability of WD-H43s. Would there be any issues with use the WD-H46? Thanks in advance for any insight.

Casey

I'm quite sure the H46 would be OK optically................... with the possibility that the IF might be blocked. ????

I'm really desparate to find a H43. Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wish Canon had delivered this lens at the same time as the cams. :-(

JohnG

Thanks, John. Interestingly, videodirect.com claims to have some coming in over the next few days. I went ahead and placed an order because you can cancel at any time before shipment without much hassle (which I did when I located my HV20). I'll let you know if I actually get mine shipped any time soon.

Casey

I'm quite sure the H46 would be OK optically................... with the possibility that the IF might be blocked. ????

I'm really desparate to find a H43. Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wish Canon had delivered this lens at the same time as the cams. :-(

JohnG

I am using the WD-H43 since the camera arrived, snapped on and have not taken it off since. (See my previous posts). No vignetting at all, very sharp and the AIF works very well. No blocking. Same with the WD-H38 for the HV-10. I would stay away from other adapters not design for the HD lens of these cameras.

Luis

Luis, how much distortion you get with the H43?

if you could post a fremegrab would be perfect

regards

Thanks, John. Interestingly, videodirect.com claims to have some coming in over the next few days. I went ahead and placed an order because you can cancel at any time before shipment without much hassle (which I did when I located my HV20). I'll let you know if I actually get mine shipped any time soon.

Casey

Hope you get the adapter.

You might want to keep an eye on Amazon, BH, and the other usual suspects for additional stock. I lucked-out and got the last one on Amazon tonight (Wed 04-11). :-)

Regards
JohnG

My WD-H43 arrived at my local dealer today. I take delivery tomorrow. So, they are out there...

Luis, how much distortion you get with the H43?

if you could post a fremegrab would be perfect

regards

here you go......The Canon shot is with the H37C on the HV-10, the other is with the H43. This one is a real hunk of glass.

Luis

What about PANASONIC WIDE LENS VW-LW4307ME 43 MM FAK 0.7X? Will this lens do something good on the hv20 camera?

I hope to see a comparative pictures of different wide lenses.

Fron now, all I can say is that Sony wide lenses are worse than any other thing I ever see. Believe it or not, here is a sample of what I'm talking about. Look at the cromatic distortions and see how everything around the edges is totally out of focus. This occurs even in wide zoom position.

Now I'm using a very cheap Kenko 0.43x, and have not any of this problems.

wow, i just barely made it to. i ordered it from amazon last night with 2 left and now there out of stock. hope to put up some shots with and without the lens.

thanks! the quality seems nice, but nice distortion too, its hard to find a .7x without much distortion.

probably I'll be trying the raynox HD-7000PRO

I hope to see a comparative pictures of different wide lenses.

Fron now, all I can say is that Sony wide lenses are worse than any other thing I ever see. Believe it or not, here is a sample of what I'm talking about. Look at the cromatic distortions and see how everything around the edges is totally out of focus. This occurs even in wide zoom position.

Now I'm using a very cheap Kenko 0.43x, and have not any of this problems.

Wow, that really is bad!

Odd, but I've noticed in my two trips these past two months to Tokyo that all of these wide-angle and tele accessories are available at almost all of the major electronics stores, but hard to find here in the USA.

Best?

Perhaps find the part number off the Japanese website, then order off a dealer on eBay.com who's in Japan (there are a handful). The yen to dollar is good right now, so you can get a nice 15-20% discount that way as well.

(Oddly, even though the lenses are cheaper to buy with USD in Japan, the camcorder prices are still very high - eg.HV10 for 99,000 Yen or about $840 USD at 118yen=1usd; US prices on the HV10 are far lower.)

---

Watch out about these wide angle lenses! They are mini-monsters so to speak and are very large in comparison to the camera itself, esp. the one for the HV10! You'd never think it would be that massive until you've seen one, and then it'll make you rethink whether you really want one or not. (eg. for me, it's like no way!)

Ive not seen one of these at all in the UK which is a shame as I'd really like one :(

Is it really worth getting the Canon wide angle adapter for hv20?

What about aftermaket? Any thoughts ....

its costs 20% or the camera price.....

Thanks

Is it really worth getting the Canon wide angle adapter for hv20?

What about aftermaket? Any thoughts ....

its costs 20% or the camera price.....

Thanks

Yes, this lens was designed specifically for the HV-20. I shoot 90% of every thing with the HD-43W. I have seen some issues with vignetting with some of the aftermarket products ie...Raynox etc...

quality wise you won't regret it.

Luis

Yes, this lens was designed specifically for the HV-20. I shoot 90% of every thing with the HD-43W. I have seen some issues with vignetting with some of the aftermarket products ie...Raynox etc...

quality wise you won't regret it.

Luis

Just ordered one.......

Are there threads on the front of this lens (for filters and the like)? I'm thinking not...

Are there threads on the front of this lens (for filters and the like)? I'm thinking not...

I can confirm your thoughts. ;-)
There are no threads on the front of WD-H43. I would try to sandwich a polarizer and see how that works though.

Ajit B.

can anyone confirm if there is vignetting w/ the wide angle if a uv filter is attached to the hv20? is it ok to have a uv attached when using the wide angle? thanks.

Interestingly enough, I did find a difference when checking the wd-43 vs. the wd-h43
It was an odd enough result that I had to share...

basically I aimed at a black and white store advertisement, and tried the manual focus.
With the wd-43, when I went in and out of focus, the black print on white would change colors! I think it was between red and blue.

it was odd, I was wondering if it was some sort of chromatic distortioin that I'd been reading about here.

the wd-h43 did the focus just fine... :)

Yes Alberto, it is indeed difficult to find a 0.7x converter that doesn't add to the barrel distortion. I found in test that Raynox's 6600PRO gave the least distortion of a zoom through, but after about 6x zoom the image softenen noticeably (and Raynox admitted to this). The HD7000 is hopefully sharper throughout the zoom, but not sure what its barrel distortion is like, not having tested it.

But hey Javier, to suggest that all Sony wide-angles are no good is going a bit far - the 0.7x they supplied with the PD170 and the 0.8 x made for the V1 are fine converter lenses. OJK, theyre both pretty mild and they both add to the barrel distortion, but you've got to use an aspheric to overcome that. My 0.52x on my Z1 gives no barrel distortion, but only zooms to 6x. Fair trade in my view.

tom.

I've tried the 6600 vs the H43. Although the 6600 gives less distortion, the colour accuracy and resolution seems to be far better on the H43.

Just in case anybody is wondering about the availability of this unit in Canada: amazingphoto have this in stock. I've just bought another two to be resold on eBay :D

Tom & David-I just got my HV20 and have the Raynox 6600 from my SD camcorder. Was wonder how would I go about testing it to see how well it works? Thanks.

Tom & David-I just got my HV20 and have the Raynox 6600 from my SD camcorder. Was wonder how would I go about testing it to see how well it works? Thanks.

I personally would test it by

1. set the HV20 on a tripod
2. take the video indoors, set at 24p for the best saturation and lowest grain
3. set the auto exposure to OFF
4. tape something with and without the Raynox.

If the colour saturation and detail loss is acceptable for you, then use the Raynox. IMHO it brings me back to standard-definition quality. Some details and colour saturation are lost due to the Raynox. Also note that the Raynox seems to be even blurrier if you need to zoom in. Maybe it's a partial-zoom-through lens adapter? regardless, my finding is that the Raynox has more negatives than positives compared to the H43.

The brick wall test is a great way of putting a camera through its paces. Set your camera in auto (w/bal, exposure, focus, audio) and speak to the mics saying what settings you're using. Have the camcorder perfectly perpendicular to the wall.

Now film at full tele, full wide, and with the converter lens on and off. You can count the bricks on your TV later to see if you really do have a 12x zoom, and see if your converter is really a 0.7x as claimed. You'll also see if the lens softens the image, reduces the contrast and at what aperture this happens (turn on your 'display').

Brick walls show up barrel distortion quick as a wink - there's no escape for any lens. You can vary the shutter speeds or introduce the ND filters to let you shoot at specific apertures, or better yet shoot to flash memory in higher res modes.

tom.

Hi Rick

I get zero vignetting with the HD5050 .

If you remove the 37mm - 37mm plastic ring to stop vignetting the back of the lens very slightly touchs the auto lens cap doors - these are not under power (touch them with your finger to see they will not resist even the lightest feather touch) - I have had my camera set up like this for months - no marks on either the lens or the auto lens cap.

from your pictures I can't see a big difference betwen the DVR5000 and the HD5050. Can you please tell me your oppinion? At the shop (my country) there is a big price difference and I don't know if it's worth it. thanks

Hi Lee,

[...] I get zero vignetting with the HD5050 .

If you remove the 37mm - 37mm plastic ring to stop vignetting the back of the lens very slightly touchs the auto lens cap doors [...]

You are right - however I think the touch is more than just 'slight'. Please have a look at the comparision and the sample pictures I did a few days ago:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=94258

When the Raynox touches the automatic lens cover there is still more than one millimeter on the thread to go, so that it can't be tightly fixed without deforming the lens cover. I am also scared that the lens will suffer because of the repeated mountings. Due to the (to my feeling) bad quality of the Raynox, I mount it only when I definately need it.

If there would be another 0.55 converter available, even for double the price, but without vignetting when it is tightly fixed and a better image quality, I would instantly sell my Raynox and go for this one.

Regards, Oliver

I don't get any vignetting with my HV10 and Raynox 5050 on the viewfinder or on a 16x9 TV.

For me, critical viewing and finished product viewing will be on an HDTV not a PC, so if it vignettes a little on a PC, I don't really care that much.

I bought my 5050 for $90. To me, it's worth the $30 more over the DVR5000.

The HD5050 does not vignette if you remove the 37-37mm adaptor/extender ring.

The HD5050 does not touch the HV10s lens - screwed in all the way without the 37mm adaptor ring it just touches the built in automatic lens cap which is not under power, nor shows any resistance to the very light pressure the back of the lens exerts when it brushes against it.

This is not ideal, but not a big problem either.

If this still worries you do this - switch on the HV10 - auto lens cap retracts out of the way - pop on the HD5050 - film - remove lens - turn off HV10 - lens cap closes

Just got it today. It's really a solid built with high quality optics. It's heavy and the color is more like a charcoal metallic grey than the cheap plastic silver HV20 is.

The lens weighted almost 1 lbs makes the camera really heavy in the front. The lens also blocks the built-in light and the flash light. Object will show up like moon elipse when you try to use either one. :)

With this wide angle lens attached to the front, my HV20 doesn't look that amature anymore. I am thinking of adding the Canon DM50 microphone later.

Taky

I've just acquired an HV-10 and am looking for wide angle converters (at least 0.65x) other than the Canon because it's not quite wide enough. I've looked through most/all the posts on this, but I have a few more questions:

1 - Any more information on the Century optics 0DS-HR65-37 zoom through converter - is it really as bad as shown in this post (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showpost.php?p=681895&postcount=10) or was there something wrong in the set-up/use? I noticed a filter installed on it and this could have made things go down hill in the corners.

2 - Am I better off getting a WA converter that's a bit larger that may have improved the corner performance (sharpness & CA), say like the Raynox HD-6600 Pro 43mm 0.66x or the Century DS-65CV-58 0.65x (58mm) and use a very thin 37mm to XX mm step-up ring? These would be bigger/heavier, but would the image quality be better in the end?

3 - How well do the non-zoom through designs work at the wide end, e.g. the century optics DS-55WA-37 0.55x or the Ryanox DCR-5000, 52mm 0.5x? Are they better in general than the zoom-through designs?

I don't necessarily need a zoom through, but it would be nice.

Thanks - John

Since I've gotten my HV20, I've had a lot of fun playing with it. Unfortunately, I was upgrading from a GL1 so none of my old accessories would work. So, I bought an adapter ring and all my 58mm filters work fine and I've tried my Canon WD-58H wide angle lens on there and it looks great! Being bigger than 43mm, there's no distortion, and I haven't seen a difference by it being an SD wide angle adapter, it looks great.

One advantage that I've found by having the WD-58H on the HV20 was that I could better hold the camera by cradling it than just the camera by itself, which is a little difficult for me since I have big hands. Also, when I add on my Beachtek DXA-6VU adapter along with the WD-58H, the camera weight is nice and balanced and I can handle it just like my old beloved GL1.

So, if you can't get the Canon 43mm wide angle lens designed for it, I'd recommend going with a bigger lens for sure! =)

Jack -

Thanks for the feedback. I've now read some other posts that suggest going with a larger lense than needed for wide angle may help get around some of the barrel distortion and perhaps the corner softness issues. I don't know about the barrel distortion, but it kind of makes sense that having a larger element would improve the corner sharpness because you are using more of the center part of the glass, not the outer bits where most of the optical problems occur. I'm going t look into getting either a Raynox, Century, or Canon WA adapter that fits a larger camera.

- John

How are folks liking the HD-7000PRO, now that they've had for at least a few weeks with their HV20?

Also for those that bought through B&H, what are you using instead of the Raynox RA5843 (not listed) for the 43-58mm step-up?

Thanks!

Andrew.

...or to rephrase the question, B&H has three 43-58mm step-up rings (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/3results/controller/home?O=search&A=search&Q=&ci=420&sb=bs%2Cupper%28ds%29&sq=asc&atl=Lens+Diameter+Size_43mm%7EFilter+Size_58mm) listed. A B+W, a Century Precision Optics and a Cokin.

Ignoring the prices, which would you recommend (against) for use with the HV20 and why?

Anyone using the Canon WD-H46 46mm 0.7x Wide Angle Converter Lens with their HV20? Is this lens "HD quality" glass?

I need a wide angle for my HV20 (for a shoot in less than two weeks) and I'm having a heckuva time finding a 43mm from Canon, Raynox, etc., so I'm considering this one using a step-up ring. Is this doable?

I've read some other post regarding using Sony, etc. but I've not seen anything mentioned on this.

Thanks,
Blake

I have a HV10 with 37mm and a GL2 with 58mm thread.
Raynox 6600Pro is my choice for wide angle!
Can i buy a 58mm version, so i can use it on my GL2, and with an adaptor ring 37->58 for my HV10? Or this is a very BIG stepping?
If i can use, the 0,66 magnification will still remain with HV10 or increase about 0,8? :(

Another thing: because the wideangle has 72mm filter thread, and in this size a good Polar filter isnt cheap, and i already have a good 55mm Hoya Polar filter, can i make this setup?
HV10 37mm->step up to 55mm, Hoya Polar filter -> 55mm version of the 6600Pro wideangle?
Will this setup vignetting or can i make excellent result? I film in nature, where wide angle is important, deep blue sky is also great, and HD resolution of course :)

thank you,
Marton

Marton,

Yes, I own a Canon HV10 and a Raynox 6600Pro WA lens. I use a 37-49mm upsizing ring to make the connection. So, my WA lens is 49mm. The reason I bought the 49mm WA was to enable use with my Panasonic GS250, as well as with the Canon HV10, the former being 49mm and does not require the step-up ring adapter.

Sorry, I cannot answer your question about the 55mm Raynox, and or 55mm filters/polarizer, as I do not own these items.

I have not noticed any vignetting, barrel distortion, or chromatic aberration with the 49mm WA lens on my HV10. It's been awhile since I used this WA lens on my Panasonic GS250 but, I vaguely recall there may have been a very slight amount of vignetting when used on this camcorder. Then again, I'm relying upon distant recollection, so the vignetting I'm thinking about could well have involved other lenses I've used with the Panasonic.

I remain 100% happy with the Raynox 6600Pro WA lens! I can't imagine a WA lens that produces a better match with the Canon HV10, and better image quality. The size and weight of this WA lens in relation to it's connection to the small HV10 is not a problem where I am concerned.

I attach two photos (sorry for low-light image quality) which depict the 6600Pro WA mounted on my Canon HV10 and monopod.

See attached ...

VM

thanks for photos!

Is this 6600 a high quality, multi coated lens?
Did you see more lensflares when you see the sun or a spotlight,
and when you dont use the lens?

thx,
Marton

I just got Canon's HD43 wide angle lens for my HV20. Some quick observations:

1. This lens is heavy! I haven't weighed it or looked up specs, but it's probably as heavy (or heavier) than the camera. It's also big. Still, the combined weight is quite manageable, particularly in comparison with my prosumer VX2000 which this rig replaces. I've previously described my shooting technique of using a shoulder strap and balancing the camera against my chest (this provides 3-point support and enables very stable hand-held shots). The heavy lens on the front actually helps as puts weight on the front of the camera strap.

2. I keep a UV filter on my HV20 -- this protects the lens and the auto-lens cap. I tried putting the HD43 over the filter, i.e. the filter is between the WA lens and the camera. It works great -- there is no vignetting. There's another advantage to doing this. The HV20 has plastic filter screw threads (what do you expect in an inexpensive consumer camera?). The UV filter I'm using (a Tiffen) has a metal collar. This means I'm less likely to strip the camera's screw threads when putting the WA lens on and off. This also means that other filters, e.g. polarizing, can be used between the WA lens and the camera, a desirable option as the Canon WA doesn't have filter threads on the front.

3. This is pretty decent-quality glass. In some quick and non-scientific tests, I couldn't detect any significant color fringing when zoomed all the way in. It's a tad less contrasty than the HV20's lens, but definitely acceptable.

4. Image stabilization is adversely effected -- it can get a little jumpy. I'll probably switch off IS when shooting in extreme wide position (IS is really less important when shooting wide, anyway).

Heh, funny, I got one just 3 hours ago! :)
http://eugenia.gnomefiles.org/2007/11/10/slik-504qf-ii-and-wd-h43/

Hi there..not a question but observation. This is my experience with HV20 from shooting a couple of short documentaries. I went in with the Videomic on top of camera for verité doco work - bad idea. If someone is talking and you want to move the camera away from speaker ie to get reaction, you can't as sound drops away. After reaserch I forked out $400 for an ME64 which couldn't have been a better choice for this cam. Its short, battery op, low profile, has a wide pattern so you can move the camera around while not losing out the sound. Its the perfect length for this cam too, only 7inches. It also has presence boost which really picks voices out of nowhere.
If you need an on camera mic for verité doco footage to pick up voices / dialogue, this is a good choice of mic. It would be way to noisy for narrative work though. While it is expernsive, it is the only mic really that has all these characteristics and is battery op. I use it in conjunction with an old sony VCL-0746B wide angle lens, which is very small compared with the official lens. With this on the cam you can get in close enough to the subject to get decent sound level.
Anyway just wanted to share that, hope its of some use. Cheers. Ben.

Awesome info, thanks. I use the ME 64 too, and it's excellent. Any low-light issues using the HV20 for doc work?

Low light has not really been a major problem - when shooting 24p. 60i is not so great, but do-able. When you consider the size of the cam you can't complain at all. Chaocito.