OK one thing I really hate about my HD1 is that I can not CLOSE the LCD while recording. (well I can sortuv with the LCD OUT but that defeats the point) (I know its an OLED but I am used to typing LCD :-)

Anyway it seems that the standby mode is activated by a simply mechanical switch. IE the little "nub" is what seems to push it and turn off the camera.

I am thinking of REMOVING this so I can close the OLED panel and have the camera keep running and NOW the OLED is in a PROTECTED closed position (for when I mount it to things like my head bike car RC Car Airplane rocket etc..)

Remifications of this ?

One massive problem I see is that I will have to manually turn the camera on and off with the on/off button. this can take a lot longer and may result in me forgetting to turn it off or not being able to get it to "turn on" in time for a shot I want.

Can anyone think of an intermediate process I can use ? a way to remove the nub but also put it back when I want the camera in normal mode ?

a way to "add" a nub when I desire that feature but then the ability to remove it when its not desired ?

Suggestions ?

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

The nub goes into a little hole. You could try putting some tape over the hole, or blocking it temporarily in some other way. The lid might not close completely, but probably enough to protect it.

Alas won't work. I even thought of molding a foam wedge for the screen to compress that would keep it from pressing the button.

but I have to "wrap" the camera in protective foam for the things I do with it and the pressure is either enough to force it through tape etc.. or enough that the pressure on the hindge concerns me :-(

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

The only thing I've found is to rotate the LCD around and lay it flat on the camera with the LCD's back against the on/off switch and cover the "always on" LCD with something like a card.

I've been thinking of adding a viewfinder or scope, especially for use with stills and the flash, when I can't see the subject in the LCD. I think someone also mentioned using a laser pointer, which might also work for stills, you would just have to photoshop out the red dot.

For the flash in the dark situation, I have found it satisfactory to put two dots of white foam on the front and back along and parallel to the lens. Lining them up at eye level gets me pointed enough as long as I don't zoom.