Heath McKnight
July 23rd, 2006, 07:57 PM
Pt. 1:
I had the opportunity, thanks the Chris Hurd and Geoff Senior at Canon, to take the XL H1 for a test-drive earlier this year. And I recently used the camera for a small project. So I figured, now is the time to do a review of the XL H1!
Normally, I try to do a camera review with Jon Fordham (http://hdvinfo.net/articles/misc/fordham6.php), my close friend who happens to be an accomplished DP and DIT in New York City. But Jon's gone big time, so it's tough to get our schedules to match. One thing to note, Jon did have a chance to shoot some tests in January and he liked it. I'll aks him post some thoughts up when he has time.
We also put the Z1, HD100 and XL H1 together and shot a basic "scene" of one of my students with three lights. We shot them in 50i/CF25, 24p and 24f. To be honest, the XL H1 and Z1, to my eye, looked very similar. The HD100 looked very filmlike, as did the others, but I did enjoy the HD100's handling of highlights quite a bit. Unfortunately, since Apple's Final Cut Studio STILL doesn't support 72024p or 24f, I have no video/stills to show. Yet.
Anyway, I took the time to put the XL H1 through some rigorous tests and will be putting up 60i and 30f video and stills as soon as I can, and 24f when Apple updates FCP. So what are my thoughts?
It's a very nice camera, and like the HVR Z1/PD150 and 170 and HVX200/DVX100a, it reminded me of its DV camera counterpart, the XL1. I'll be honest, I haven't used the XL2, but from what I've seen, it handles like an XL1s but with native 16x9, 24p, etc. But if you're familiar with the XL1-2 series, you'll be all right going to the XL H1. But there are some things to keep in mind, and I'll touch upon them soon.
Before you read the review, check out the XL H1 specifications (http://www.usa.canon.com/app/html/XLH1/specifications.shtml), which will help you out.
The camera is laid out and looks just like and XL1/2 camera, and that's comforting for someone that used an XL1 for 4 years. The lens is nice and can be removed, but make sure you use an HD-calibrated lens. HD doesn't handle shooting with SD lenses or lens-adapters. The lens also has the neutral density filters ring on it (nice), stabilizer and auto/manual focus switches. Also, to use the zoom manually, there's no button or switch to turn off the zoom rocker. That's cool. What's uncool is a lack of zoom or focus number markings on the zoom/focus rings.
Also found on the lens is a way to set up a preset for either zoom or focus, but not both at the same time. You can set up something like a zoom in or out from specified points, or a rack focus from one subject to another. One thing to note, you can't do the opposite (once you zoom in, that's it, etc.), just one move. And only one thing, focus or zoom, not both at the same time.
You can control the speed in the menu, but it's only got three choices, slow, medium and fast. This is similar to the Shot Transition feature on the Z1, which is far more powerful and allows you to do focus, zoom, etc. You can even do rack focuses from one subject and back to the other (there are two options you can set up, vs. one with the XL H1--ie, zoom in is one button setting, zoom out is the other). And the speed control is better, too.
Most of the controls are on the left side of the body, and set up pretty much like the XL DV cameras. Except you can flip the two switches to shoot in either HD or SD (two flavors, 16x9 or 4x3), and another to shoot in 60i, 30f or 24f. Also, you can send the XL H1 back to Canon's factory, and they'll set you up with 50i and 25f for a fee (I think it's $500). Not too shabby!
There are two ports for the viewfinder, one for the standard EVF that comes with the camera, and another for a FU-1000 Monochrome CRT Viewfinder Unit (that costs $2000!).
Since HD is focus critical, you need to be aware of how peaking and the magnification works. Peaking draws an outline around objects as they come into focus (you can do this while recording or not, and it doesn't go to tape). Magnification doubles the image to help out with focus, too, but you cannot do this while recording.
Shutter speeds range from 1/3 all the way up to 1/15,000th of a second. But if you want to use a shutter of 1/48 or 1/24, that can only be found in 24f mode. For 1/50 or1/25, it's in 50i/25f frame modes.
Gain and white balance settings are exactly like the XL DV series of cameras, with some extra options than before (at least vs. the original XL1). You can also set the color temperature by switching the knob to "K."
The menu is in a slightly different place than I'm used to, but it's got all the things one needs. Control of the camera, including a way to set up different Custom Presets (up to six in camera, another 17 with a memory card, though Canon claims up to 20) to change looks, etc. You can name them, but when you call them up and turn them on with the buttons located under the handle. But, the names don't appear, only the CP #, so remember which is which! And one more thing, you can't change it while recording or set up the CPs.
You can also set up two Custom Key short cuts, like turning Zebras on or off, changing the viewfinder to black and white for easier focusing, etc. Of course, I went with Zebras and the black and white EVF.
The Aspect Guides are cool, because if you're shooting widescreen films, it puts up a guide for 2.35:1 or even 1.85:1! Nice! I know filmmakers like Frederic Haubrich (www.lumieremedia.com) masked a Z1 for 2.35:1 and cropped in post (ahh, just the good ol' days of native 4x3 DV cameras).
Of course, you'll still need to crop the shot in post, but it's nicer than trying to put black gaffer or grip tape over the small viewfinder, even if it does pop off. (No LCD, unfortunately.)
I like that you can record up to four channels of audio through the two XLR ports on the back, plus the RCA jacks (four there).
Another nice thing is bars and tone (1 khz, -12db or -20db), but it's a two-step process to bring up the bars. The button also doubles as a black or white fader, and once you select it, you have to turn it on. I like one-step color bar buttons (like the Z1, HD100, DVX100, etc.), but it's easier than going through the menu, like my old XL1.
Heath McKnight
I had the opportunity, thanks the Chris Hurd and Geoff Senior at Canon, to take the XL H1 for a test-drive earlier this year. And I recently used the camera for a small project. So I figured, now is the time to do a review of the XL H1!
Normally, I try to do a camera review with Jon Fordham (http://hdvinfo.net/articles/misc/fordham6.php), my close friend who happens to be an accomplished DP and DIT in New York City. But Jon's gone big time, so it's tough to get our schedules to match. One thing to note, Jon did have a chance to shoot some tests in January and he liked it. I'll aks him post some thoughts up when he has time.
We also put the Z1, HD100 and XL H1 together and shot a basic "scene" of one of my students with three lights. We shot them in 50i/CF25, 24p and 24f. To be honest, the XL H1 and Z1, to my eye, looked very similar. The HD100 looked very filmlike, as did the others, but I did enjoy the HD100's handling of highlights quite a bit. Unfortunately, since Apple's Final Cut Studio STILL doesn't support 72024p or 24f, I have no video/stills to show. Yet.
Anyway, I took the time to put the XL H1 through some rigorous tests and will be putting up 60i and 30f video and stills as soon as I can, and 24f when Apple updates FCP. So what are my thoughts?
It's a very nice camera, and like the HVR Z1/PD150 and 170 and HVX200/DVX100a, it reminded me of its DV camera counterpart, the XL1. I'll be honest, I haven't used the XL2, but from what I've seen, it handles like an XL1s but with native 16x9, 24p, etc. But if you're familiar with the XL1-2 series, you'll be all right going to the XL H1. But there are some things to keep in mind, and I'll touch upon them soon.
Before you read the review, check out the XL H1 specifications (http://www.usa.canon.com/app/html/XLH1/specifications.shtml), which will help you out.
The camera is laid out and looks just like and XL1/2 camera, and that's comforting for someone that used an XL1 for 4 years. The lens is nice and can be removed, but make sure you use an HD-calibrated lens. HD doesn't handle shooting with SD lenses or lens-adapters. The lens also has the neutral density filters ring on it (nice), stabilizer and auto/manual focus switches. Also, to use the zoom manually, there's no button or switch to turn off the zoom rocker. That's cool. What's uncool is a lack of zoom or focus number markings on the zoom/focus rings.
Also found on the lens is a way to set up a preset for either zoom or focus, but not both at the same time. You can set up something like a zoom in or out from specified points, or a rack focus from one subject to another. One thing to note, you can't do the opposite (once you zoom in, that's it, etc.), just one move. And only one thing, focus or zoom, not both at the same time.
You can control the speed in the menu, but it's only got three choices, slow, medium and fast. This is similar to the Shot Transition feature on the Z1, which is far more powerful and allows you to do focus, zoom, etc. You can even do rack focuses from one subject and back to the other (there are two options you can set up, vs. one with the XL H1--ie, zoom in is one button setting, zoom out is the other). And the speed control is better, too.
Most of the controls are on the left side of the body, and set up pretty much like the XL DV cameras. Except you can flip the two switches to shoot in either HD or SD (two flavors, 16x9 or 4x3), and another to shoot in 60i, 30f or 24f. Also, you can send the XL H1 back to Canon's factory, and they'll set you up with 50i and 25f for a fee (I think it's $500). Not too shabby!
There are two ports for the viewfinder, one for the standard EVF that comes with the camera, and another for a FU-1000 Monochrome CRT Viewfinder Unit (that costs $2000!).
Since HD is focus critical, you need to be aware of how peaking and the magnification works. Peaking draws an outline around objects as they come into focus (you can do this while recording or not, and it doesn't go to tape). Magnification doubles the image to help out with focus, too, but you cannot do this while recording.
Shutter speeds range from 1/3 all the way up to 1/15,000th of a second. But if you want to use a shutter of 1/48 or 1/24, that can only be found in 24f mode. For 1/50 or1/25, it's in 50i/25f frame modes.
Gain and white balance settings are exactly like the XL DV series of cameras, with some extra options than before (at least vs. the original XL1). You can also set the color temperature by switching the knob to "K."
The menu is in a slightly different place than I'm used to, but it's got all the things one needs. Control of the camera, including a way to set up different Custom Presets (up to six in camera, another 17 with a memory card, though Canon claims up to 20) to change looks, etc. You can name them, but when you call them up and turn them on with the buttons located under the handle. But, the names don't appear, only the CP #, so remember which is which! And one more thing, you can't change it while recording or set up the CPs.
You can also set up two Custom Key short cuts, like turning Zebras on or off, changing the viewfinder to black and white for easier focusing, etc. Of course, I went with Zebras and the black and white EVF.
The Aspect Guides are cool, because if you're shooting widescreen films, it puts up a guide for 2.35:1 or even 1.85:1! Nice! I know filmmakers like Frederic Haubrich (www.lumieremedia.com) masked a Z1 for 2.35:1 and cropped in post (ahh, just the good ol' days of native 4x3 DV cameras).
Of course, you'll still need to crop the shot in post, but it's nicer than trying to put black gaffer or grip tape over the small viewfinder, even if it does pop off. (No LCD, unfortunately.)
I like that you can record up to four channels of audio through the two XLR ports on the back, plus the RCA jacks (four there).
Another nice thing is bars and tone (1 khz, -12db or -20db), but it's a two-step process to bring up the bars. The button also doubles as a black or white fader, and once you select it, you have to turn it on. I like one-step color bar buttons (like the Z1, HD100, DVX100, etc.), but it's easier than going through the menu, like my old XL1.
Heath McKnight