NOT for a film like look, but a very fluidy and sharp video look, which is the best shutter speed?

I ask because my HDR-FX1 loves to shoot at 1/60s using auto, BUT my HC1 somehow loves 1/125s. Why?

For example, in a bright sunny day it will choose 1/125s and f4.0. Then when it gets darker it will go to f2.8, then f2.0 and then wide open to f1.8, whilst still staying at 1/125s!

Wait there's more. One stop darker and again it is at 1/125s and now it turns up the gain by +3db! WTF??? Only now if it gest darker will it go to 1/60s and then after that it stays at 1/60s and the gain keeps going up and up.

So why the love of 1/125s for the HC1?

Of course I realize that I can choose 1/60s myself on the HC-1, but I am just curious as to why the HC-1 on Auto prefers 1/125s so much?

Your thoughts please...

Throwing in a bit of shutter sharpens up details on moving objects, producing better slomo and freeze frames. For sports I'll always throw in at least 1/100 shutter. Not sure why the camera will apply gain before it will take away shutter, though. These full-auto features always sort of mystify me, which is why I always leave them off.

And f/4 on a bright sunny day? How much ND are you using?

And f/4 on a bright sunny day? How much ND are you using?

The HC-1 doesn't have any ND filters. On a bright sunny day I usually get 1/125s and f4.0 or if very bright it goes to f5.6 or in between the two.

The HC-1 doesn't have any ND filters. On a bright sunny day I usually get 1/125s and f4.0 or if very bright it goes to f5.6 or in between the two.

The Canon does 'minus-gain'. I wonder if the HC-1 is so paranoid of small apatures (which lead to soft fuzzy pictures on small CCDs) so it will do anything at all to avoid any iris smaller than 5.6 - including negative gain.

In bright sun, my Z1 has ND2 engaged, and requires 120 fps or more to get less than f5.6. Sometimes to keep the iris below f5.6, I've done an Auto Shot Transition between f2.8 at 1200 shutter at 0db Gain to f2.8 at 50 shutter at 0db gain (and worse).

Use shutter speed to dial out overly bright conditions. Don't let the iris close up too much, or else you'll get soft pictures.

Check this out - Z1 pulls shutter speed from 3200 f2.8 to 25 f2.8 on second shot. Thank you Auto Transition.

http://www.mdma.tv/point/

For example, in a bright sunny day it will choose 1/125s and f4.0. Then when it gets darker it will go to f2.8, then f2.0 and then wide open to f1.8, whilst still staying at 1/125s!

Wait there's more. One stop darker and again it is at 1/125s and now it turns up the gain by +3db! WTF??? Only now if it gest darker will it go to 1/60s and then after that it stays at 1/60s and the gain keeps going up and up.
My thoughts are : That doesn't sound normal for an HC1. I've never heard of an HC1 hanging onto 1/125th like that. Most of the time it should be shooting at 1/60th. It makes no sense at all that its adding 3dB of gain BEFORE dropping the shutter to 1/60th ! very odd.
Are you sure you're in 'Auto' exposure mode ? Are you using any Program AE modes?

I wonder if the HC-1 is so paranoid of small apatures (which lead to soft fuzzy pictures on small CCDs) so it will do anything at all to avoid any iris smaller than 5.6 - including negative gain.

Yes diffraction is bad for resolution. However the HC-1 goes to f4.0 and then to f2.8 but does not stop there - it goes all the way wide open to f1.8. Surely f1.8 is fuzzy compared to f2.8 and it is visibly.

Are you sure you're in 'Auto' exposure mode? Are you using any Program AE modes?

No it is 'Auto' mode. And it has behaved this way all the time. By the way I lent my camera to my brother for this trip and he had it on fully locked "safe" mode and still the progam behaved the same way, i.e. the love for 1/125s remained the same.

The HC-1 doesn't have any ND filters. On a bright sunny day I usually get 1/125s and f4.0 or if very bright it goes to f5.6 or in between the two.

That iris seems INCREDIBLY open for a bright sunny day, most cameras are at f/8 minimum. Something's not right.