HC3 PAL with Letus35 flip enhanced for shooting a BW independant low budget but high quality script and post-prod film.

Im very afraid about the PAL fluo lights flickers because the HC3 dont have any shutter controls...

then now im thinking about

1- Taking ntsc and give up 4% converting to 24p

or

2- Taking a PAL HC1 with shutter control for avoid flickers. (I hope its work)


here the good and bad I see for each configuration:


- HC1 - Pal - shutter control - poor lowlight and bottom tapeload (awful cause I will be on a rod system with the 35mm adapter) - sound input - good 24p conversion

or

- HC3 - NTSC - no shutter control (no need anymore) - better lowlight - side tapeload - but bad 24p conversion...


I really hope I can get PAL HC3 with no flickers problem cause of the more sharp lowlight result. The adapter and slr lens will eat me a lot of lights... I feel I will need it!


One scene of the movie will be in a psychiatric hospital and I will not be able to avoid fluorescent lights there!

Thanks

ps: the question is: Wich system will be better for my 24p movie? Pal HC1 or Ntsc HC3...

ok, not so much success with my post... I will simplify things;

Is theres somebody who have experience shooting PAL in america? Is the easy 24p convertion process balance the fact you have to be careful with flickering lights?

Yes, you can easily de-interlace 50i to 25p, then convert to 24p in any number of NLEs.

heath

...did I miss something, "HC3 has NO shutter control..." -is that true?? BOOO, HISS!

www.dvfilm.com states that the 1/50 sec shutter speed is one of the key things to set to get good conversion to 24p / deinterlacing of 50i/60i...

OK, with the bottom loader changing tapes on HC1 is going to be a pain -but you get 60mins, shallow DOF with the Letus AND 1/50 sec. I have PAL version -I think the colours are better than NTSC too...

...also don't forget a 37mm flourescent filter.


Nick.

With film looks, the closer to a shutter of 1/48, the better. So 1/50 is great.

hwm

HC-3 PAL: shutter is auto or manual mode. on manual mode it is fixed to 50. I found sometimes a shutter of 100 when switched to manual - it seems the cam sometimes fixes the current auto - shutter when switched to manual. so you should darken the image before switch to get 50.
Unfortunately the values are not shown while recording, only on playback.

not so bad! thanks for all the reply!

is playback include an real-time output to dvrack on a laptop?! (dont think so)

are you happy overall with that small camera? price just go down here in canada! yepiiiiie!

fluorescent filter? for what? its only make the color warmer no?

I think he ment fluroescent light that are typical for hospital. I think they flickers 50 or 60 times per times depending on the electric system.

The HC3 haven't got a mic-input and I doubt that sound will be any good for a movie. My HC1 built in mic isn't the greatest.

Changing a tape is quite easy and if you swap at lunchtime it will be cool. If you shoot 2 hours per day you are probably shooting too much. I still remember when I shot 5 tapes for a 10 minute shot. The time editing and throwing out the trashy scenes probably took longer time than shooting them.

And I forgot... I would go for HC1 but seriously consider the A1. Alternatively try to find someone who has an even better camera that can be cameraman.