Ok, slightly misleading title, the answers arn't here (yet) but I'm calling out for questions!

What questions does everyone have about the Merlin?

Any problems you owners have? Or things that you are curious about?
What about those of you looking at getting one.. What do you want to know bout it, or Steadicam in general?

I'll do my best to answer any questions you have. I'll be taking a good look at the Merlin at NAB and talking with Garrett about it. I'd like to hear some of your thoughts too.



- Mikko

They made balancing look so easy on the DVD, but I'm finding it challenging. It'll feel good when I'm holding still, but as soon as I start moving it tends to tilt forward and to the right. I keep using it every chance I get and I might be getting a little better, but I don't take it out on anything important yet in case I screw up. Is there some trick to it, or does it just take a lot of practice?

And thanks for the advice before we've all even thought of the questions to ask.

Smile,
Kris

Yes you will get better with practice.

The first part is learning how to move the rig without wobbling it (caused by holding the gimble too hard). Seems like you ahve that bit down pat.

The next part, the hard part, is learning to anticipate that "penduluming" you are experiencing. Because the bottom is a little heavier it will tend to lag behind just slightly when you accelerate (making it tilt down). Just the same when you stop it will go the other way. The trick is learning to prevent this slight tilt by appling just enough force to hold it in place - but without griping so hard you make it wobble!

With practice you will learn how the rig acts and learn how to counteract those small sways and your shots will improve greatly.


You can also audjust the "Z" adjustment to slightly alter how bottom heavy the rig is, heavier will hand vertical stronger, but will also pendulum more. The manual and cookbook's settings are recomended settings, but it's worth it to experiment a little both ways with this to see how you like the rig to act.
Profesional operators consider the drop time of their rig, and often adjust it, for every shot depding on what type of movement will be involved.

Thanks for asking, have fun with your Merlin!


Anyone else? Questions for me and the other ops here, or for Garrett himeslf?


- Mikko

I have a DVX100A and struggling whether I should get the Merlin or spend double to get Glidecam 4000 + smoothshooter. I have tried the glidecam + smoothshooter. I think that it's heavy. As I do wedding, I like to be flexible so Merlin sounds like the perfect choice. Now, I am not sure how long can I hold the thing for as my arms are definitely not very strong. Also, would the DVX100A a bit too heavy for the Merlin? Thanks!

Any handheld stabilizer will get heavy eventually.
The Merlin will be much lighter that the Glidecam handheld - and has no strain on your wrist (that's what really gets you anyway)

For an idea how long you can hold the Merlin, hold the camera on your hand and see how long you can go.


But yes the DVX100 works great on a Merlin, even with an accesory or two. And the merlin will be much more flexible, as you can go into handheld mode or even switch over to a tripod in an instant (about 10 seconds, if you are slow) - which also help you last longer too if need be.

If possible, try them both before you buy.

Let us know what you decide and your thougths on your purchase.

- Mikko

Okay, here are my Merlin questions looking for an answer:

1. Mikko, you indicate it takes only a few seconds to switch from handheld to tripod. Is that doing a quick release from the Merlin then slide the camera into a quick release base mounted on the tripod? Or, can the Merlin (w/camera attached) be mounted on a tripod?

2. Is it possible to point the camera downward at maybe a 45-degree angle and walk with it in the steady mode? For example, say there's a long, low display counter with stuff on it; Can I film as I walk alongside the entire length of the counter with the camera pointing down at the items on the counter?

On this last one, I'm guessing I would have to make some adjustment to keep the camera steady at the desired downward angle. But, without such adjustment, I could not go from filming level to filming at any downward (or upward) angle.

Tom T.

Tom:

If your shot is all about the 45 degree tilt down, then you can preset the balance of the rig by racking the camera forward until it hangs at the appropriate level of tilt. This will then require very little force to maintain this position which is always desirable. If however you need to tilt back up during the shot, the best thing to do is to adjust the Z axis to make the rig less bottom-heavy (i.e. more neutral) which will also result in less force being required to maintain a severe tilt. You will however have to pay more attention to your operating as the rig will thus become more sensitive to touch.

Thanks for the response, Charles. I'm in the pre-decision to buy mode right now, and I'm happy to read that it is possible to set this rig to shoot steady at something other than flat level.

Now, anyone else care to enlighten me on moving quickly from handheld to tripod & back? From the photos I've seen of the Merlin, there doesn't appear to be any way to attach a quick release to the Merlin so that it + the camera can be mounted together on a tripod.

Can the Merlin shoot beyond a 45 degree tilt upward or downward? Say, If I wanted to shoot 90 degrees, straight up to the sky while walking?

For an idea how long you can hold the Merlin, hold the camera on your hand and see how long you can go.

- Mikko
Thanks for you advice. I tried out what you recommended. I found out the total weight of merlin with the weights. I attached a monopod with extra weight to my DVX100A. It was not too bad. Definitely much much better than the glidecam 4000 with the camera on it. I tried the 4000 with a quick release plate and a DVX100. I could hardly hold the thing with two hands (I am a small guy). I think I can hold the merlin with two hands for over 10 minutes.

I do wedding and I am now fighting myself whether I shall get the merlin or the DVRig Pro. I know they have two very different purposes. However, I need both of them but I can only afford one. Anyone faces the same problem and what do you think?

I finally decided to get the Merlin and went ahead to order it from B&H together with the 100 G2 wireless mic system and a couple of other things. Too bad that b&h is closed until April 20 and I have a wedding coming up on April 29. Let me see how much practice and training I can do in a few days!

I am not buying the DVRig Pro because I have been using a monopod pretty much the same way the DVRig operates. Certainly, the monopod thing is not as well design and flexible as the DVRig. Heard so many good comments about DVRig. However, I do need Merlin to do some steady movements.

Will post my experience once I got it from the mail.... The feeling of waiting is terrible, especially when I have fully paid $1500.

Garrett Brown the inventor of the Merlin spoke at our Baltimore Videographers Association meeting last Tuesday, and showed us the Merlin up close.

It is a very impressive piece of craftsmanship, and when used properly, as shown by him, will produce absolutely amazing shots.
He kept restating that this is a dleicate piece of machinery and won't be a pickup and shoot great moving shots piece of equitment.
It will take practice, but once you master it, you will get great smooth steady shots with less effort than the previous JR.

If you have shot with a JR before, then you will pickup on operating it quicker, and fall in love with it.

I own a DVRig myself, and use it for an entire days shoot. You won't be able to do so with this. Probably 15 minutes of shooting, and go tripod and back to Merlin for more moving shots.

Garret explained, that steadicams were designed for shooting feature films, hense, shoot for 10 minutes get the moving shot you want and cut.
Using one makes you think more like a film director, and plan your shots accordingly, and make use of cuts more rather than getting an entire shot (ex. following someone all the way down a starircase. Follow some of the way, and get great shot (cut), move ahead and get another great shot to finish the shot.).
I see the Merlin coming in handy in at least a 2 camera shoot (I shoot weddings and events). One camera set wide to medium on a tripod run throughout the event, and me as the operator of the Merlin getting creative shots of first dance, and mix in accordingly with camera 2, and take camera off of Merlin to place on tripod 2 when not in use.

I don't currently operate a stedicam at the moment and tried out the Merlin, and as long as I remembered to hold the gimble lightly and use my thumb or other hand to control the rotation and tilt (there is a knob just under the bottom of the plate over the gimble handle) of the unit, it worked good.
there are 2 long thumb wheels on it, one on the side which helps set your side to side balance, and one on the front which controls how much of an angle you want the camera shooting (slightly up for great moving low angle shots or at eye level or slightly tilted down for moving overhead shots).

He made the dove plate that your camera sits on (attaches to the Merlin like a quick release plate) to make going from Merlin to tripod accessible.
There will be accessories for the Merlin coming out in the next year or so, he mentioned a lanc control built into the handle and holder for wireless etc.

I just have to add it was mesmerising heraing Garrett speak, as he truly, and I mean truly loves the act of motion and everything that accompanies it. Not just filming motion, but being in motion and filming it. It was very Zen like...

Sorry for the late responses, I'm traveling at the moment.

CP allready covered the issue of setting a tilt angle. - Very easy.

I'm not sure what is teh max angle for teh Merlin to be able to sit and comfterbly while you hold it. 45* shodul eb fine, and more shoudln't be too mcuh of a porblem provided you figure out how to hodl teh handle for the shot - btu all very possible.

As for the quick release, I am in deed refering to puling the camera off the Merlin and onto a tripod using the included quick realse and tripod-mount.
There is no way to mount the merlin directly to a tripod - Nor is there really any reason to do so.



Nice post Michael!

- Mikko

Great input Michael. That's a demo I would like to have seen in person. But even reading about it was interesting.

And Mikko, thanks for clearing up for me how one goes from handheld to the tripod & back to handheld. Somewhere in reading about the merlin it said a tripod mount was included -- so I hoped that was a tripod mount for the merlin, not the camera.

Based on my experience, I would really like to be able to mount the entire unit on a tripod. I also own the DVRig Pro, and I find it awkward to slide off the camera, slide it on the tripod, detach the brace, take off the Rig, set it down ..... then, when it's time, do the same procedure in reverse.

It's not difficult to attach a QR to the bottom of the rig, but (I do weddings) it sure as heck looks wierd to see the whole DVRig with the camera perched on top of a tripod -- not to mention a stability concern. Anyway, my wife insisted the outfit would draw more attention than the bride, so I nixed the idea.

But, I still think it would be ideal to 'fly' the merlin, come in for a landing on a tripod, lock it, shoot whatever, unlock, and take off again. Maybe the merlin II will incorporate that feature.

Paul L. -- if you're still checking this discussion, Amazon right now is selling the merlin (thru J&R) for the same price as B&H: $799 and w/free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EF3DXW/sr=8-14/qid=1144967375/ref=sr_1_14/103-0189140-6463841?%5Fencoding=UTF8

I don't know if free shipping applies to shipments to Canada, but at least the merlin is in stock and the entire company isn't on holiday until April 20. From what I've read in other discussions, just a day or two of practice with the merlin won't get you ready for a professional shoot. Good Luck.

Based on my experience, I would really like to be able to mount the entire unit on a tripod. I also own the DVRig Pro, and I find it awkward to slide off the camera, slide it on the tripod, detach the brace, take off the Rig, set it down ..... then, when it's time, do the same procedure in reverse.

It's not difficult to attach a QR to the bottom of the rig, but (I do weddings) it sure as heck looks wierd to see the whole DVRig with the camera perched on top of a tripod -- not to mention a stability concern. Anyway, my wife insisted the outfit would draw more attention than the bride, so I nixed the idea.


Tom just to let you know, as I said before I do use the DVRig Pro and mainly use it to perform wedding and event video.
I never take my VX2100 off of my DVRig for the entire day.
Instead as you have pointed out, I place the DVRig onto my Bogen tripod by using the lightstand adapter that screws into the bottom of the rig arm and then have the tripod adapter (which is a huge cylinder that attaches to the tripod QR plate on the tripod), and then I just have to place the rig into the adapter and tighten to lock down. The whole process takes about 5 seconds. And I was worried about stability myself, but after trying it have found it to be very stable.

I do have to shorten one of the legs a little bit to make sure that the rig is level, but this has worked flawless for me to date (15+ weddings). Although by doing this prevents me from panning 360, as the picture will tilt when doing so because of the shorter leg.

As for the comment of being to noticable, the only time I place the rig on the tripod is during the ceremony, after I have filmed the processional, where I then place the rig on a pre-placed tripod off to the side to film the remainder of teh ceremony (I have camera 2 wide/medium in back filming cutaway video by my wife).
The same goes for the ceremony, where I am using the rig most if not the entire reception, and again only place it on the tripod for rest between shots, and lock down tripod shooting (barely used by me for receptions anymore).

Belive it or not, I have had vendors and guests comment "That's quite an impressive setup you have there". The same people afterwards say that they hardly noticed I was there shooting.
So while I do agree that at first some might think that it would draw too many stares and attention away from the days events, peoples eyes are always on the action at hand (Bride & Groom, Guests), and not so much on me. That is as long as I make sure that I give them their space.

But still all things considered, the DVRig is a great tool, but not a steadicam like the Merlin.

BTW Garrett also mentined that he was maybe going to work on some sort of body vest for the Merlin, to aleviate arm strain. Something more elegant than teh current body pods out there, more vest like. That would be the bomb.

BTW Garrett also mentined that he was maybe going to work on some sort of body vest for the Merlin, to aleviate arm strain. Something more elegant than teh current body pods out there, more vest like. That would be the bomb.
That is great news. Hopefully, the vest won't be more than $2000.

Nah, the sticker price will probably be only $1,999 --it'll seem cheaper that way.

I think VariZoom sells a vest for about $800 that they claim will work with most hand-held stabilizers.

..... I place the DVRig onto my Bogen tripod by using the lightstand adapter that screws into the bottom of the rig arm and then have the tripod adapter (which is a huge cylinder that attaches to the tripod QR plate on the tripod)....

Michael, based on your input, I just might take another look at mounting the DVRig Pro on a tripod for a wedding.

Maybe what my wife didn't like was my jury-rigged bracket to mount the rig on a tripod.

What is the lightstand adapter and the tripod adapter you mentioned in your post? I guess if I worked with lightstands I'd know what you were talking about.

Just to bring merlin back into the discussion, what I like about the DVRig is that I don't look like a Borg walking around, and I also get positive comments. But, it's definitely not a stabilizer. So, I'm still considering adding the merlin to the inventory for those shots that still exist only in my mind.

Trying to find a suitable stabilizer for some shots of crew boats on the water. I'm in a coach's motorboat and it can get rather bouncy for any kind of closeup work. (Nothing like having your shot show the crew boat rowing uphill :-). Have tried a steadystick and monopod, but the boat's cramped conditions make for very difficult shooting as the support leg tends to hit the sideboards. Can the Merlin hold a HVX200? At 5.5 pounds without a big battery, it's somewhat at the upper limit of handheld.
Thanks for any help.

-Bob

Bob,
Yes the Merlin *will* fly the HVX-200 - But only the bare HVX200 with a medium battery (and I belive only one P2 card). Out on the water you might want to have a rain cover on your HVX incase of spray, which would make it too heavy.

I've shot a little bit of crew footage from the chase boat. For those that don't know:the one huge benefit with shooting rowing is that the water has to be very calm for the rowers (those boats are *tiny*!) meanign that you arn't workign in too rough conditions.

Steadicam isused often in boats as it's one of the jobs it does very well, but there are also safty issues involved. Normally when working with a full rig, the opretor uses a vest with a "break away" system so that if they go overbaord they can pull a rip-cord and ditch (loose) the rig to save themselves. My point here is that keep in mind some way of feering yourself from whatever support you choose. - of course any handhelf rig will help you here.

I think that the Merlin should work fine for you (and it will be very stable) for shooting rowing as the weather conditions are noramally farily good and speeds slow wnough to prevent any real spray, however you will be restricted if you want to add accesories or rain protection to the camera.
If you go for some other type of support, be sure to keep a safty bail out option available. - For example I wouldn't recomend the Flyer for this as it doesn't have a break-away vest. Also note thatthe Merlin is actually quite large when the arc is all teh way open for the weight of the HVX. Another good option (as the ride should be prety smooth anyway) would be a shoulder system, but that's a topic for another thread.

- Mikko

Do you have any wind out there on the water? If you do, any of those "flying" rigs will have problems, and I would think especially the Merlin, which is especially susceptible to environmental forces.

Boat to boat shooting is often accomplished with the use of a gyro lens. I believe there is a company that has such a device for cameras like yours, but it won't be cheap.

Something I don't think is mentioned in the manual - do you keep the camera's internal stabilizer on or off? I keep it off, but I suppose it would help with static shots. What does everyone else do?

Mikko, what does the SteadiStand and Docking Bracket do? I'm looking on everybody site and there is never a picture or description for these items. We are leaning towards the Merlin and just want to make sure we are not missing anything that we may need.

Thanks
Tom

sunova bitch, i had the merlin set up with all the gear on it, wide angle, tape, 8hr battery, LCD out and i lost the paper i wrote it on. Now i cant set it up again, bah, anyone have this set up and maybe can tell me what its set on, farking hell!

Hi, just received my Merlin from B&H yesterday. I think I got the thing well balanced with my DVX100A. However, I have some questions:

- I locked up everything and got everything well balanced. However, after I played with it for a few minutes, it became off balanced again. I did not do anything to change the weight distribution or anything. Is this normal?

- The gimbal is not as smooth as I expect. May be because of the weight of the DVX. Can I grease the gimbal to make it smoother??

So far, I am very happy with it. The only two things I am not happy are:
- the mounting screw is not attached to the dovetail plate. Very easy to lose the screw.
- tripod adaptor plate does not have the video pin hole. Need to remove the pin of the tripod quick release plate everything! I don't understand why they don't drill the hole for us!

Here is a tour of my apartment after 30mins practice:

http://www.isentropic.com/paul/merlin.wmv

looks smooth :D

- I locked up everything and got everything well balanced. However, after I played with it for a few minutes, it became off balanced again. I did not do anything to change the weight distribution or anything. Is this normal?]

Paul,

As one merlin newbie to another, I know exactly what you're experiencing. Well, almost.

I've had mine for more than a week now, and I'm doing two practice sessions a day, one in the a.m. and one in the p.m., about 15 minutes each. It'll be perfectly balanced for the entire session, then I set it down either folded or unfolded. When I pick it up again -- about 10 hours later -- it'll be slightly out of trim. Sometimes not so slightly, needing as much as a half or three-quarters turn on the fore-aft wheel, and usually some adjustment is also needed for left & right trim.

My theory is it has to do with the same global effects that bring on the high and low tides -- the gravitional pull of the sun and moon.

I haven't experienced this within the same session as you have, but it always happens for me when there's several hours between sessions.

I'm getting pretty good where I can get it trimmed up quickly, but it still is a bit strange.

On another issue, I tried it outside today with a bit of a wind blowing. I don't know the exact wind speed, but it was about what one would expect on an average day. As a result, I doubt I'll be using the merlin outside for any serious work for quite some time. It really is a challenge to control when there's much of any wind.

Tom T.

well i thoguth i had it balanced. When i tried running with it arond the house it tips forward alot, not by much but it noticable. When stationary its level or so i think, if i move my wrist left/righ fast sometimes get tippage too. how do i avoid the tippage. lol
thnx

Hi Guys,

I have a Z1, and tried one at the booth at NAB. It works, but as Garrett explained to me there, you need to use two hands - he called it the "golf grip" and a VERY light finger on the gimbal with your left hand. It gets very heavy after about 5-6 minutes.

As an alternative, I am think about using the HC-1 as well. He thinks it is a great combo. Anybody tried this?

Jack

Hi everyone,
Sorry for the long delay in my response. I've been away at NAB all week and only just got home from a very long flight (so excuse any poor spelling).
I do however have my own Merlin now too. :-)
[I also bought an Archer at the show]

First off, be sure to check out the new Merlin FAQ here: http://www.merlincookbook.com/faqs.php


Wind:
Yes, this is always an issue with Steadicam, and more so with lighter rigs unfortunatly. That in deed will be a factor that will make most boat shooting dificult if you can't get into shelter from the wind.

Image stabilisation:
Normally it's a good idea to turn OFF any image stabilisation if you plan to move the camera because of the way OIS and EIS work.

Steadi-Stand and Docking Bracket:
The Steadi-stand is a lightweight compact "C-stand" type stand. The docking bracket is a peice that can go either atop the Steadi-stand (or any other C-stand) or onto any standard tripod thread and will give you a little balancing pin to put the merlin on (with the hole in the handle) for balancing or docking if you don't want to set the rig down. Not necessary equipment, but very handy, especailly for those on longer shoots or working with larger cameras.

Re-trimming:
Beacuse of the way anything is built, there is always a *tiny* amount of "slop" or "give". If the Merlin's connections where 100% tight, you of course wouldn't be able to make any adjustments. However that clearance can someitmes lead to the need to ever so slightly re-trim the rig. Also not the arc has a tiny bit of play at the caliper, so if you pull up the bottom spar it may move the weights enough to upset balance a little. - once balanced it's a good idea to get into the habit of not pulling or pushing any of the parts to hard. - Even so, slight re-trimming is part of daily life when working with any Steadicam - that's why the adjustment rollers have been made so easy to use.


The mounting screw - and locator pin - are detached because of the flexibilety of the 15 holes to mount the camera. - unless you are working with a bottom loader camera (I hate them!) you should never need to remove your dovetail plate from the camera.

I agree with the coments on the lack of a locating-pin hole in the tripod adapter, I mentioned this at NAB. Note that almost every tripod's locator pin is either spring loaded (dissapears down when you add the adapter) or can be screwed down into the plate (check the underside!). I have yet to find a tripod that woulnd't work with just the threaded hole - this is how all still cameras are anyway, they don't have a locator hole.

I belive that "Tippage" you mention Saturnin is the comon "pendulum" effect that comes from a rig that is bottom heavy. - if it's severe, then your rig is too bottom heavy, if it's just slight then that's normal and something that is part of operating to anticipate and control whenever you accelerate.

Jack, I have a Sony A1 without mic (almsot identical to the HC1) on my Merlin now and it works great!


- Mikko

Hey Mikko,

You are a walking Merlin Encylopedia! Thanks for all the information. Taking both the Z1 and the HC-1 out for trial flights this week. Sorry I didn't run into you at NAB.

Best Regards,


Jack

With regard to the problem concerning the mounting screw on the Merlin, use a pinch ring. It will hold the screw in place, while allowing the screw to be tightened or loosened.

And is that advice true of any screw? I have found that the screw that holds in place the little lever you turn to attach the camera to the merlin has been coming loose and making the whole thing not stay in place very well (and I found it hard to balance when everything stayed put). Would a pinch ring solve that problem. And if so can I just ask for one at Home Depot and have any hope of them handing me the right thing?

For that, head over to the adhesives section of your Home Depot, and grab some Blue loctite. It's the nonpermenant stuff. The little ring is for keeping a screw attached to something while still letting it turn.

With regard to the problem concerning the mounting screw on the Merlin, use a pinch ring. It will hold the screw in place, while allowing the screw to be tightened or loosened.

Thanks Ron. Will pay home depot a visit.

One modification that I'd like to see would be the addition of a locator hole in the tripod adapter plate. All of my tripods have a locating pin in addition to the mounting screw for the camera. The Merlin tripod plate doesn't have that hole. Not a big deal since I'm about to add one myself, but I was a little surprised not to find one already there.

To solve the screw problem mentioned above I bought another screw longer than the first and put two lock nuts on it. Now it does still turn to allow you to open and close the screw and I found that it makes the grip tighter two. I also put a plastic vice on to make sure it dosent slide up and down the platform. I think a little better thought should have been put into the grip screw as it seems poor craftmanship. Im sure a better solution could have been found and still not add wieght to the merlin. Also im surprised that they limit the wieght to only 5lbs as most pro consumer cameras will be just over this wieght. Is this to get out of the fact that pro consumer cameras will be used more than consumer cameras therefore forfitting the warrenty? With the price tag it is clearly aimed at the pro consumer market, as most people with a consumer camera wont want to buy a stabiliztion unit that costs more than there camera.

With all that said and done I think it has the protential to be a great product for low budget productions.

Also im surprised that they limit the wieght to only 5lbs as most pro consumer cameras will be just over this wieght. Is this to get out of the fact that pro consumer cameras will be used more than consumer cameras therefore forfitting the warrenty? With the price tag it is clearly aimed at the pro consumer market, as most people with a consumer camera wont want to buy a stabiliztion unit that costs more than there camera.

There is a certain limit to how much weight the average user can comfortably fly with a handheld stabilizer. Over 5 lbs is pushing it for most and will limit the length of shots that are possible.

Few "consumers" (i.e. casual camcorder users who mostly have cameras to cover family events, etc) will be able to get much use out of a mechanical stabilizer because the learning curve is likely beyond what they are interested in, the gear is too bulky to travel with and carry around, etc. I think it safer to say that the Merlin is aimed at the lower level of "prosumers" who are using the smaller class of cameras for one reason or another. In this case, it is true that the rig will possibly cost more than the camera, but of course it will likely outlast it in the same way that one can keep a good tripod for years while upgrading the cameras that going on it over time.

The 5 lb+ class of cameras are more suited to the Flyer rig which incorporates the vest and arm to help manage this payload. Certainly it is much more expensive than the Merlin (once again the stabilizer is as much or more than the camera itself), but at this point both the camera and stabilizer can deliver such good results that the resulting footage can compete with that captured by a high-end camera/stabilizer combo that costs literally hundreds of times more.

As for the quick release, I am in deed refering to puling the camera off the Merlin and onto a tripod using the included quick realse and tripod-mount.
There is no way to mount the merlin directly to a tripod - Nor is there really any reason to do so.

- Mikko

Mikko and Tom

I have tried the tripod-mount during holiday and it works (you NEED it if you switch regularly between tripod and Merlin).

Two remarks:

1) The tripod-mount has only one hole for the mounting screw, not for the locating pin of your tripod (I have no idea why). So you need to remove the locating pin of your tripod plate (and put it in your wallet or you'll lose it). (my tripod is a Sachtler DV 2 II).

2) Using the tripod-mount also requires that the camera is mounted to the mounting plate in such a way that the lcd-screen horizon is absolutely parallel to the horizon of the mounting-plate (some smaller camera's, like mine need some adjustment with a coin or tape or something), otherwise the camera will not be parallel to the pan-plane (don't know if this word is the correct word) and your filmed horizon will have a roll to left or right. This trimming you will need to do when the camera is mounted on the tripod (by the tripod-mount).

I have posted some pictures to iilustrate this on:

http://www.xs4all.nl/~mali99/Merlin%20tripod%20pictures/

Hopes this helps,

Pieter

As for the quick release, I am in deed refering to puling the camera off the Merlin and onto a tripod using the included quick realse and tripod-mount.
There is no way to mount the merlin directly to a tripod - Nor is there really any reason to do so.

- Mikko

Mikko and Tom

I have tried the tripod-mount during holiday and it works (you NEED it if you switch regularly between tripod and Merlin).

Two remarks:

Using the tripod-mount also requires that the camera is mounted to the mounting plate in such a way that the lcd-screen horizon is absolutely parallel to the horizon of the mounting-plate (some smaller camera's, like mine need some adjustment with a coin or tape or something), otherwise the camera will not be parallel to the pan-plane (don't know if this word is the correct word) and your filmed horizon will have a roll to left or right. This trimming you will need to do when the camera is mounted on the tripod (by the tripod-mount).

I have made some pictures to iilustrate this on:

http://www.xs4all.nl/~mali99/Merlin%20tripod%20pictures

Hopes this helps,

Pieter

1) The tripod-mount has only one hole for the mounting screw, not for the locating pin of your tripod (I have no idea why). So you need to remove the locating pin of your tripod plate (and put it in your wallet or you'll lose it). (my tripod is a Sachtler DV 2 II).

Yes I agree that this is an issue.
Thankfully all tirpod have either a removable or retractable locating pin. But yes I agree that here should be a 2nd hole there.

2) Using the tripod-mount also requires that the camera is mounted to the mounting plate in such a way that the lcd-screen horizon is absolutely parallel to the horizon of the mounting-plate (some smaller camera's, like mine need some adjustment with a coin or tape or something), otherwise the camera will not be parallel to the pan-plane (don't know if this word is the correct word) and your filmed horizon will have a roll to left or right. This trimming you will need to do when the camera is mounted on the tripod (by the tripod-mount).



I'm not exactly sure what you mean here. Why do you need to roll the camera to one side? Is your camera's base not flat and level?

- Mikko

I'm not exactly sure what you mean here. Why do you need to roll the camera to one side? Is your camera's base not flat and level?

- Mikko

Exactly, the base is not flat neither level. Around the thread and the locating pin hole there is approx. 1 mm supporting area and beyond the surface is 0,5 mm lower. See attachment.

The Merlin manual is mentioning this - more or less- in Chapter 5 "Installing the Dovetail Plate, Prepare your camera": it is recommended to put some thick Gaffer's Tape running fore and aft (but I did'nt have it when I first set it up, maybe I should follow up the advice now..). With professional camera's this probably is not an issue.

Pieter

Ew yeah, that's not good.

Yeah, tape or a peice of thick cardboard under there woudl definatly be a good idea.

Ugh, why do camera makes release shotty things like this?


- Mikko

- The gimbal is not as smooth as I expect. May be because of the weight of the DVX. Can I grease the gimbal to make it smoother??


I had the same experience. I called my dealer - who knew nothing about it - and then sent an email to Tiffen who told me next day to send me a new gimbal (which they did immediately). The new gimbal 'felt' better but still does not feel perfect (you feel still some play). I guess this is just within the manufacturing limits. I would NOT recommend to grease it, this could spoil the gimbal, and I doubt if it would help.


So far, I am very happy with it. The only two things I am not happy are:
- the mounting screw is not attached to the dovetail plate. Very easy to lose the screw.

Also the locating pin can be gone in a split second. I lost mine during holiday, fortunately I found it back in my rucksack.


Here is a tour of my apartment after 30mins practice:

http://www.isentropic.com/paul/merlin.wmv

Looks smooth and well balanced (vertical is vertical). Your Merlin seems to function very well. I am curious to see some of your real life footage.

When is the vest for the Merlin coming out?

It is in development, I don't know when it will be ready though.

- Mikko

Hi.

I am still having Merlin problems and could do with some help.

I have both a z1 and an a1 and am getting the same problems with both.

Mainly it concerns walking/ every footstep there is a slight judder. The Merlin seems very tight, all the screws are tight. I am not even touching the gimbal, and when i do it is very light. What am i doing wrong? tried to walk more lightly, this helps slightly but not enough.

Also top/bottom heavy and the z axis. Can someone give me an idiots guide as to what situations top/bottom heavy can be advantageous in and how the z axis relates to changing the top/bottom heaviness (e.g. if it is bottom heavy does turning the z axis towards the bottom make it less so?) I change lenses and all sorts on my a1 constantly so need to understand how the balancing works so i can do this more easily. If the drop time is less than a second does it mean it is bottom heavy?

When the camera sways left and right whilst walking is the camera bottom or top heavy? sorry for all the dumb questions!

thanks very much

Does your G-platz screw have a firm connection with the camera? I find that if it doesn't, vibration is evident in the picture. Turning the ring clockwise will make the rig more bottom heavy. Turning it counter clockwise will make it less bottom heavy. The quicker the drop time means it is more bottom heavy. Less than 1 sec is too quick. The recommended drop time is 1 second. If the camera sways left and right whilst walking you are probably too bottom heavy, but you will always get some sway, especially with a change of speed/direction. That is the nature of Steadicam. You can learn to control the swaying by applying light pressure to the gimbal at the right time. This takes many hours of practice to get perfect.

thanks Nick

appreciate the help.

i havent been able to get the g platz to touch the camera. neither my a1 or z1 are anywhere near it. i have followed the cookook settings fo both. is there anyway to get it to connect?

phil

I'll expand a little on Nick's answers.

The G-platz is in deed needed to slightly tension the camera on the stage as most cameras don't have super ridged mounting structures.

Where on (or off) the camera does the G-platz hit on your cameras? The first thing to try is to try the G-platz screw in both holes.
The next solution is to slide the camera (by sliding the dovetail plate) so that the screw can press on the camera. On the A1 the back of lens hood is a good spot to press on lightly, on the Z1, anywhere on the lens barrel that isn't a zoom or focus ring. You will then need to use the trim roller to correct fore-aft balance.

Another thing to check for to prevent vibration is to make sure that the dovetail plate is ridged. Current Merlins come with the 2 halves of the dovetail plate riveted together at the back, older Merlins (including mine) however, don't.
The solution is to carefully undo the screw in the dovetail locking clamp to seperate the black and blue plates. Then a small peice of double sided tape is placed between the plates at the back (stick to the blue side first, it has larger holes so you can align te tape around them). Then press the plates together and then put the clamp back. The result is a stronger more ridged plate which will furthur reduce vibration.

As to balancing...

The Z axis moves the gimble up and down, in relation to the center of gravity of the system. The furthur up (closer to the stage) the gimble is, the lower the center of gravity and more more "bottom heavy" the rig is. This means that the bottom of the rig will pull down harder like a pendulum.

A rig has 3 states:
Bottom heavy - it hangs bottom down.
Neutral - it hangs at whatever angle you leave it at and does not return to vertical.
Top heavy - the camera is heavier than the counterweights and the rig wants to topple and hang upside down.

A shorter drop time means that the bottom of the rig falls faster and is more bottom heavy. This will also cause the rig to act more like a pendulum and "lean" when you corner or accellerate.


- Mikko