With over 12,000 units sold, a personal notification attempt would be a daunting task.

Wow Carl. That's an amazing number. U.S. only or worldwide?
Either way, I would call that an overwhelming success for a professional division camera.

Wow Carl. That's an amazing number. U.S. only or worldwide?
Either way, I would call that an overwhelming success for a professional division camera.
Let's see, 12,000 x $5000 = $60,000,000 G.P.

I'd say ProHD(XE) is here to stay with those kind of numbers....

Let's see, 12,000 x $5000 = $60,000,000 G.P.

I'd say ProHD(XE) is here to stay with those kind of numbers....

And Final Cut doesn't support ProHD 24p yet?

I wonder how many HVX-200's, XL-H1's, Sony ZR1's have been sold.

I have heard that Sony has sold over 40,000 Z1's. That doesn't include the FX1 which they did well with also.

Dan Weber

Jiri, will do as soon as I get back from Vancouver (I am wearing my film DP hat right now).

Sorry for the delay (I have my video DP hat back on - historical note, at one time my union had a "DPE" designation for "Director of Photography Electronic" as they were bringing IATSE TV lighting directors into the DP category. DPEs were not on the Producers Roster for film work - how times have changed!).

Here is a link to the detailed photos of how to install a wireless mic onto the Anton Bauer QR-JVC 7/14 HDV mount (and maybe the IDX as well): http://enzogiobbe.com/hd100_mic.html

There is also a screen shot of the "Real Time" display now available on the updated "A" model units.

So far, the "A" upgrade has worked for us, the only down side is that when the operator switches on the camera light (AB UL2 / 20W bulb) the viewfinder goes black for a second. This did not happen before the cameras were upgraded. I though it might be an issue with the light cord running by the VF cord/plug (and we have a core filter installed at the plug end), but powering it from a non mounted light (cord nowhere near the VF cord/plug) does the same thing.

I will give a more detailed report on our experiences in choosing a new "B" cam in a new thread, including my recent trip to Japan and some of the new goodies I got to play with.

So far, the "A" upgrade has worked for us, the only down side is that when the operator switches on the camera light (AB UL2 / 20W bulb) the viewfinder goes black for a minute. This did not happen before the cameras were upgraded. I though it might be an issue with the light cord running by the VF cord/plug (and we have a core filter installed at the plug end), but powering it from a non mounted light (cord nowhere near the VF cord/plug) does the same thing.

Any chance you had the iris set to auto? This could definitely 'blind' the camera momentarily until the iris can compensate. Why a black viewfinder? Because, if my suspicions are correct, this massive influx of light would cause the auto iris to overshoot towards full closed and then open back up.

-gb-

Any chance you had the iris set to auto? This could definitely 'blind' the camera momentarily until the iris can compensate. Why a black viewfinder? Because, if my suspicions are correct, this massive influx of light would cause the auto iris to overshoot towards full closed and then open back up.

-gb-


Good point Greg, and one item easily overlooked, so thanks for the heads up. But no, all of our operators always (well, almost always anyway) use full manual everything (except for the zoom control) with any of the ENG cameras we use. if I could, I would Super Glue the switch to manual, as for some reason, it seems to be too easy to switch to auto (much easier than on other lenses :).

Near as I can nail it down, it's only on the updated units, and more or less when the battery reaches 50% capacity or less. Happens about 80% of the time at that point, and maybe 20% when the battery (AB HyTRON 50 or Dionic 90 depending on the lens installed) is near full. I don't know if its happening with all of our "A" units, but it just did it with the three I have with me. There is never a "hit" on the tape, so it looks like a low voltage VF problem.

I will call Anton about when I get some free time and see what they have to say. I edited my original post -- "minute" was just a poor figure of speech, "a second" is a better choice of description.

if I could, I would Super Glue the switch to manual, as for some reason, it seems to be too easy to switch to auto (much easier than on other lenses :).

Yes Enzo, I meant to ask in my earlier post if the iris had been 'accidentally' switched to auto because of the location of the switch. I can see it getting bumped pretty easy.

-gb-

Yes Enzo, I meant to ask in my earlier post if the iris had been 'accidentally' switched to auto because of the location of the switch. I can see it getting bumped pretty easy.

-gb-

Greg, has that happened to you? Seems like the only real complaint I have heard about the camera. Operator goes to turn the iris ring only to find it locked (auto iris on). Maybe the lens control handle is a bit smaller than most?

Have Anyone heard something about the upgrade in Europe?
It's been for a long time i'm waiting for that news. But there's nothing happens. WOULD Somebody tell me the reason? :)
thanks

Hi Trung,

Several European customers have had their cameras upgraded. Have you contacted your local reseller or JVC sales office?

Here's the contact page for JVC Pro Europe:

http://www.jvcproeurope.com/uk/pub/contact.html

Regards,

Carl

I will contact them. THnaks for ur information.

First off, let me say that JVC has definitely changed their customer service to world class customer oriented status.

We let the other broadcast outlets take the cameras they have borrowed from us in for the "A" upgrade, except for the "fair condition" noted on their invoices :), everybody was impressed at the speed and "no hassle" the upgrades were performed at (most with a 24 hour turn-around).

Only one of the 12 cameras we have had a very slight SSE problem, and JVC calibrated that right out. Even with full on gain and shooting in the "toe" of the exposure ramp (Q: "What stop where you shooting at?" A: "I don't know, it was too dark to see."), there is no SEE evident now when viewed on any of our huge HD monitors. SSE should no longer ever be an issue with the HD-100 units, if it is, JVC can, and will, calibrate it out.

Some post upgrade feedback I have received: 3 of the upgraded cams are having a problem reading the remaining tape time correctly on startup (I cautioned every outlet to ONLY use JVC Pro HD tapes). The display says "Near Tape End" even with a new tape up. After the tape runs for a few seconds, the remaining tape time is shown correctly. This problem did not exist before the upgrade. The problem reoccurs after the deck has gone dark. Return video shows clean heads.

All of the cams are having the momentary VF blackout problem when using the Anton Bauer kit and turning on the Ultralight 2 with a 20W bulb installed. This happens with both Dionic 90 and HyTRON 50 batteries up and less than 50% capacity remaining on the meter. The VF "remaining time" display now works correctly, and it recalibrates itself just like the "big" cams do.

Now, I think I have found the problem with the VF blackout happening when the UL2 is switched on. One of the cams CNN borrowed actually had a couple of tape hits when this happened to them. This tells me that the cam shut down momentarily. So I believe the problem is that JVC has set the cam off voltage too high (at 12V., it cannot be adjusted lower via the Anton battery menu, only higher).

Most (if not all) of the other ENG cams we use have the shutoff set to 11.2 to 11.5V., and the alarm set at about a volt higher (user selectable, as it is on the JVC). I am thinking that with the battery at 40 to 60% capacity, turning on the light causes a momentary amperage hit that drives the voltage under 12 V. causing the VF blackout and in some cases a momentary cam stop (which shows up as a tape hit). This phenomenon occurs more often with the lower AH HyTRON 50s.

Tungsten lights use more wattage on startup then they do on run. It also may be OE (a manual light/camera run sync problem). The operator turns on the light and hits record at about the same time. Cameras that have an autorun light circuit built in -- sync the tape run and light on cycle so they do not occur at the same time.

Any thoughts? Suggestions?

Other than that, absolutely no problems after the "A" upgrade and every broadcast outlet is really loving this cam.

As far as Europe goes I was told that upgrades were available for my 101E when I had the time to take it in to JVC (my camera was bought in Dec 2005) and I am taking it in the week after this one, it took a simple call to them to book a time to take it in and I have been VERY pleased with the service from JVC on all counts.

I will also say that I have had no problems at all with voltage's whilst using the PAG adaptor and C50 cobalt cells, very impressed with them, the C50 size cells seem to suit the 101 very nicely and will happily run the camera all day long.

First off, let me say that JVC has definitely changed their customer service to world class customer oriented status.

We let the other broadcast outlets take the cameras they have borrowed from us in for the "A" upgrade, except for the "fair condition" noted on their invoices :), everybody was impressed at the speed and "no hassle" the upgrades were performed at (most with a 24 hour turn-around).

Only one of the 12 cameras we have had a very slight SSE problem, and JVC calibrated that right out. Even with full on gain and shooting in the "toe" of the exposure ramp (Q: "What stop where you shooting at?" A: "I don't know, it was too dark to see."), there is no SEE evident now when viewed on any of our huge HD monitors. SSE should no longer ever be an issue with the HD-100 units, if it is, JVC can, and will, calibrate it out.

Some post upgrade feedback I have received: 3 of the upgraded cams are having a problem reading the remaining tape time correctly on startup (I cautioned every outlet to ONLY use JVC Pro HD tapes). The display says "Near Tape End" even with a new tape up. After the tape runs for a few seconds, the remaining tape time is shown correctly. This problem did not exist before the upgrade. The problem reoccurs after the deck has gone dark. Return video shows clean heads.

All of the cams are having the momentary VF blackout problem when using the Anton Bauer kit and turning on the Ultralight 2 with a 20W bulb installed. This happens with both Dionic 90 and HyTRON 50 batteries up and less than 50% capacity remaining on the meter. The VF "remaining time" display now works correctly, and it recalibrates itself just like the "big" cams do.

Now, I think I have found the problem with the VF blackout happening when the UL2 is switched on. One of the cams CNN borrowed actually had a couple of tape hits when this happened to them. This tells me that the cam shut down momentarily. So I believe the problem is that JVC has set the cam off voltage too high (at 12V., it cannot be adjusted lower via the Anton battery menu, only higher).

Most (if not all) of the other ENG cams we use have the shutoff set to 11.2 to 11.5V., and the alarm set at about a volt higher (user selectable, as it is on the JVC). I am thinking that with the battery at 40 to 60% capacity, turning on the light causes a momentary amperage hit that drives the voltage under 12 V. causing the VF blackout and in some cases a momentary cam stop (which shows up as a tape hit). This phenomenon occurs more often with the lower AH HyTRON 50s.

Tungsten lights use more wattage on startup then they do on run. It also may be OE (a manual light/camera run sync problem). The operator turns on the light and hits record at about the same time. Cameras that have an autorun light circuit built in -- sync the tape run and light on cycle so they do not occur at the same time.

Any thoughts? Suggestions?

Other than that, absolutely no problems after the "A" upgrade and every broadcast outlet is really loving this cam.


Enso, thant for the detailed report. I have forwarded your report to product managers, and I will let you know when I hear something.

Regards, Carl

All of the cams are having the momentary VF blackout problem when using the Anton Bauer kit and turning on the Ultralight 2 with a 20W bulb installed. This happens with both Dionic 90 and HyTRON 50 batteries up and less than 50% capacity remaining on the meter. The VF "remaining time" display now works correctly, and it recalibrates itself just like the "big" cams do.

Now, I think I have found the problem with the VF blackout happening when the UL2 is switched on. One of the cams CNN borrowed actually had a couple of tape hits when this happened to them. This tells me that the cam shut down momentarily. So I believe the problem is that JVC has set the cam off voltage too high (at 12V., it cannot be adjusted lower via the Anton battery menu, only higher).

Most (if not all) of the other ENG cams we use have the shutoff set to 11.2 to 11.5V., and the alarm set at about a volt higher (user selectable, as it is on the JVC). I am thinking that with the battery at 40 to 60% capacity, turning on the light causes a momentary amperage hit that drives the voltage under 12 V. causing the VF blackout and in some cases a momentary cam stop (which shows up as a tape hit). This phenomenon occurs more often with the lower AH HyTRON 50s.

Tungsten lights use more wattage on startup then they do on run. It also may be OE (a manual light/camera run sync problem). The operator turns on the light and hits record at about the same time. Cameras that have an autorun light circuit built in -- sync the tape run and light on cycle so they do not occur at the same time.

Any thoughts? Suggestions?

Other than that, absolutely no problems after the "A" upgrade and every broadcast outlet is really loving this cam.

You are absolutely right in thinking the camera may be doing a brief shutdown from low voltage. The phenomenon you discussed is called 'current inrush' and is definitely present with tungsten bulbs whose filament resistance increases a bit when hot. The best way to prevent this is with a 'soft start' circuit as can be found on the Canon VL10 on camera light. This also helps to reduce thermal shock to the lamp element which prolongs life. If the camera light has a dimmer knob, you can accomplish the same thing by having the dimmer rotated to minimum so the light won't suck in so much current (causing a voltage sag) at startup.

-gb-

BTW: When they recieve your camera they link you to an "accessory" page which offers a $2200 lens option. Is that the stock lens??? Click here (http://www.jvcservice.com/store/model.asp?model=GY-HD100U) The lens part number is LW30610-001B.


Any word on what lens this is??

Hi Guys,
My camera was just returned with the "A" upgrade. The
viewfinder voltage meter now reads anywhere from 14-16 v, with A.B. Dionic 90's attached...the minutes and percentage info. screen seem accurate. Should I be concerned about damaging/frying the cam? The voltage meter always stayed at 7.2 v prior to the upgrade.
I connected the camera to a another (brand new) 7/14 goldmount and still get 14-16v.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

My camera just arrived from B&H -

How to check for "A" version?

I saw the serial number below the camera - no "A" Sticker!! Tho there is one one "A" sticker on the outside box (package)

Edit: Nevermind - saw (A) sticker hidden in below the shoulderpad

My camera just arrived from JVC with the upgrade complete, and it still shows the voltage between 14 and 16 volts as well.

I assume that it is okay.

Tom

Hey Tom,
I received word from Anton Bauer that the voltage reading is directly from the battery, before the step down conversion to 7.2 volts and that it is normal to show 14-16 volts.

Any info on the "A" upgrade? For those of you who have had it done, are you pleased with the results?

Thanks

Hi Carl,

I had the update done, no problems at all.

I even had a small crack in the viewfinder and they replaced it.

I was also shocked at how quickly I had it back.

They turned it around the same day.

Tom Chaney

Hi Tom,
Thanks. DId you inform them of the crack, or did they just fix it?

Carl

I am sending my camera in for the upgrade tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

I am sending my camera in for the upgrade tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Well, yesterday my camera was dispached and is now on it's way. I was just wondering what JVC considers to be expedited shipping?? That is what it states on the update page, and according to the UPS ground TR# it will not reach me until 6/5. Also when I shipped it to them, the insurance I got $6000.00 worth, the shipper said they cannot ship it ground for this amount of insurance, because it gets bounced around to much with ground shipping, I know this to be true because I onced worked for UPS, and packages were for sure thrown around quite a bit. This leads me to believe that JVC did not insure the camera for what it is worth, because it will only ship ground with the insurance being under $5000.00.

Anyway, any thoughts?

We have two HD100s that we purchased 3 months ago. We sent one away for the upgrade about a month ago. We got it back about a week ago. The shipping was only 3 days each way by UPS, so they had the camera for about 2 weeks. It was "Waiting Parts" for most of that time. They had to replace the main circuit board. When I got the first camera back, I sent the other one.

Today was the first chance I had to really test the upgraded camera. So far, I've found the following problems:

1. There is no 48v phantom power at all, no matter where you put the switches.
2. When you do a white balance, it gets stuck in Auto White Operation and cycles between being balanced and the previous setting. You have to turn the camera off to make it stop. (Full Auto White works OK.)
3. The camera does not shut off immediately when you turn off the power (even when it's not stuck in Auto White). It says POFF in the viewfinder and the indicator lights on the side stay on for about 15 seconds.

I'm going to send it back, but not until I get the second one back. Has anyone heard of anything like this?

Also, does anyone know what the range of serial numbers is so far? One of ours is 1305xxxx (the one that has been upgraded) and the other is 1503xxxx. That seems odd to me. Also, the warranty card that came with the 1305 says "2 Years," but the other one says "One Year." We got them both from a local dealer, but the 1305's box looked like it had been opened and resealed by JVC.

We have two HD100s that we purchased 3 months ago. We sent one away for the upgrade about a month ago. We got it back about a week ago. The shipping was only 3 days each way by UPS, so they had the camera for about 2 weeks. It was "Waiting Parts" for most of that time. They had to replace the main circuit board. When I got the first camera back, I sent the other one.

Today was the first chance I had to really test the upgraded camera. So far, I've found the following problems:

1. There is no 48v phantom power at all, no matter where you put the switches.
2. When you do a white balance, it gets stuck in Auto White Operation and cycles between being balanced and the previous setting. You have to turn the camera off to make it stop. (Full Auto White works OK.)
3. The camera does not shut off immediately when you turn off the power (even when it's not stuck in Auto White). It says POFF in the viewfinder and the indicator lights on the side stay on for about 15 seconds.

I'm going to send it back, but not until I get the second one back. Has anyone heard of anything like this?

Also, does anyone know what the range of serial numbers is so far? One of ours is 1305xxxx (the one that has been upgraded) and the other is 1503xxxx. That seems odd to me. Also, the warranty card that came with the 1305 says "2 Years," but the other one says "One Year." We got them both from a local dealer, but the 1305's box looked like it had been opened and resealed by JVC.

Lee, were sorry to hear of the problem you are experiencing. Please call our Customer Care Center to arrange for repair when you are ready. 1-800-582-5825, M-F, 9AM to 5PM EST.

Regarding the serial # question: The first three digits are a code that defines the date of manufacture. Because of this, the serial numbers do not always fall in consecutive order as the units are built.

We have two HD100s that we purchased 3 months ago. We sent one away for the upgrade about a month ago. We got it back about a week ago. The shipping was only 3 days each way by UPS, so they had the camera for about 2 weeks. It was "Waiting Parts" for most of that time. They had to replace the main circuit board. When I got the first camera back, I sent the other one.

Today was the first chance I had to really test the upgraded camera. So far, I've found the following problems:

1. There is no 48v phantom power at all, no matter where you put the switches.
2. When you do a white balance, it gets stuck in Auto White Operation and cycles between being balanced and the previous setting. You have to turn the camera off to make it stop. (Full Auto White works OK.)
3. The camera does not shut off immediately when you turn off the power (even when it's not stuck in Auto White). It says POFF in the viewfinder and the indicator lights on the side stay on for about 15 seconds.

I'm going to send it back, but not until I get the second one back. Has anyone heard of anything like this?

Also, does anyone know what the range of serial numbers is so far? One of ours is 1305xxxx (the one that has been upgraded) and the other is 1503xxxx. That seems odd to me. Also, the warranty card that came with the 1305 says "2 Years," but the other one says "One Year." We got them both from a local dealer, but the 1305's box looked like it had been opened and resealed by JVC.

Lee why did JVC send the camera back to you with all those problems, didnt the tech even bother to test the camera before sending it back. Let see it cost you what 50-60$ every time you send it back to them not to mention the money it cost you when you dont have it to use. This is what my worry is, JVC sending things back with existing problems. My camera is with them right now I hope to god I dont get it back with the same problems it had when I sent it in.

Lee, were sorry to hear of the problem you are experiencing. Please call our Customer Care Center to arrange for repair when you are ready. 1-800-582-5825, M-F, 9AM to 5PM EST.

Regarding the serial # question: The first three digits are a code that defines the date of manufacture. Because of this, the serial numbers do not always fall in consecutive order as the units are built.

Carl Hicks please make sure the tech working on my camera really checks it out before sending it back to me, I would love nothing better than to report back to this board that my camera is now functioning fine after sending it in to JVC my reciept # is L046714 Thanks I really hope they get it fixed or send me a new one that functions correctly.

Carl Hicks please make sure the tech working on my camera really checks it out before sending it back to me, I would love nothing better than to report back to this board that my camera is now functioning fine after sending it in to JVC my reciept # is L046714 Thanks I really hope they get it fixed or send me a new one that functions correctly.

Hi Gary,

As I have nothing to do with the repairs, I will pass your message on to the appropriate persons.

Regards, Carl

Enso, thant for the detailed report. I have forwarded your report to product managers, and I will let you know when I hear something.

Regards, Carl

Ciao Carl,

I have a workaround fix for the VF blackout/Ultralight 2 on situation. Users have to set the "low voltage warning" setting to 12.1 or 12.2V (12.1 works fine for me). This will also allow the use of the JVC AA-P250U AC adapter (which has a pretty constant 12.4V output) with the HD100 and a Anton Bauer SO-XLR plate.

It appears that the low voltage alarm can also trigger the camera shut-off down voltage circuit too early.

Ideally, allowing the user to set the dead camera setting lower than 12V (about 11.5V or so) would be ideal.

On the HD100 Anton Bauer enabled beta test units, you could press user 2 and 3 buttons at same time, scroll to "VTR2, Anton Shut Down", and change the setting to 11.5 volts. At the 11.5V (12V warning) setting, the Anton Bauer battery real time display on the battery almost exactly matched the real time VF display. Maybe they can change it back to those choices in a future firmware update?

Hi Gary,

As I have nothing to do with the repairs, I will pass your message on to the appropriate persons.

Regards, Carl

Thanks Carl much appriciated.

Lee, were sorry to hear of the problem you are experiencing. Please call our Customer Care Center to arrange for repair when you are ready. 1-800-582-5825, M-F, 9AM to 5PM EST.


I called the number and after waiting on hold (dead silence) for about 10 minutes, a man answered who had seen my previous post. He said that the board was replaced in our first camera because we had sent a note about an audio problem! When I told him that we did not send a note, only the upgrade form, he had no explanation for why they had chosen to replace the board, or why they hadn't discovered the problems before returning the camera. But he is arranging for us to FedEx it to their repair facility in Aurora, Illinois at JVC's expense.

BTW Carl,

I just received a call this morning from a producer over at the local ABC affiliate who is using the HD100 (testing actually) on a reality show. She says that in a two shot, the person on the left side of the frame is distorted (in profile, the person's head is "wider", or at least looks wider, than the person on the right side of the frame).

She asked if this is possible. And I am thinking, possible yes, probable, no. I guess it could be a problem with one of the blocks going awry, Ever hear of anything like that?

They are using the 13x3.5 lens up, but I have the same lens and even with a .8 CO wide adapter in front, I don't notice it "pulling the edges out". May be just an optical illusion.

I will check it out for them tomorrow. Since I recommend the camera, she feels I am obligated to furnish tech support :)

Great promotion on the HD100 / AB-DIONIC battery system package! Is it retroactive? ;))

BTW Carl,

I just received a call this morning from a producer over at the local ABC affiliate who is using the HD100 (testing actually) on a reality show. She says that in a two shot, the person on the left side of the frame is distorted (in profile, the person's head is "wider", or at least looks wider, than the person on the right side of the frame).

She asked if this is possible. And I am thinking, possible yes, probable, no. I guess it could be a problem with one of the blocks going awry, Ever hear of anything like that?

They are using the 13x3.5 lens up, but I have the same lens and even with a .8 CO wide adapter in front, I don't notice it "pulling the edges out". May be just an optical illusion.

I will check it out for them tomorrow. Since I recommend the camera, she feels I am obligated to furnish tech support :)

Great promotion on the HD100 / AB-DIONIC battery system package! Is it retroactive? ;))

Hi Enzo,

I've never encountered anything like this. Hopefully it's cockpit error. A few questions come to mind:

What shooting mode is the camera in?
What model monitor are they viewing the camera on?
Does this complaint exist with the standard lens?

Bring a large ball with you, like a basketball, soccerball, volleyball, etc. I use a ball on camera often to check for aspect ratio issues. It's easier and more cooperative that a person's head!

Let us know what you find.

Regards, Carl

I just picked up the hd100 and it came with the revision "A" already... this camera came through vancouver, bc.

Hi Enzo,

I've never encountered anything like this. Hopefully it's cockpit error. A few questions come to mind:

What shooting mode is the camera in?
What model monitor are they viewing the camera on?
Does this complaint exist with the standard lens?

Bring a large ball with you, like a basketball, soccerball, volleyball, etc. I use a ball on camera often to check for aspect ratio issues. It's easier and more cooperative that a person's head!

Let us know what you find.

Regards, Carl
Ciao Carl,

They shot in HD/30, and used one of ABC's broadcast editing suite systems to view the output.

Turns out, it was just an optical illusion. One head in full profile on the left side of the frame (about a foot in) did look distorted/wider than the head on the right side of the frame, but the cam checked out fine. I've had the same kind of phenomena happen using my Sony PDW-F350, so it's not unique to the HD100.

The phenomena is most likely to occur on a two shot using soft lighting at a low ratio when one person is in full profile and the other is 3/4 or full to the camera. Having the camera angled so the subject in profile is closer, will further exaggerate the illusion.

I personally like to use a topless model in my frame to check for ratio distortion. I do like your ball idea, but my system is better esthetically. When my wife is along, I use a 16:9 aspect ratio white card with 2 rows of black alternating circles and squares (circle, square, circle) instead :)

Besides not having to take any heat for recommending the HD100 to her, I also got a free lunch out of it, so all is well in JVC recommendation land.

Nice one Enzo!

I just picked up the hd100 and it came with the revision "A" already... this camera came through vancouver, bc.

I too just bought what was stated to be a new "A" model from an authorized dealer. Not caring if it is a true A model or an upgrade/refub, how I can I tell it is now "A" capable? Bob

The A versions will have a little round sticker with an A on it, near the serial number - under the shoulder pad.

Thanks, Carl. It's nice to see JVC representatives' participation. When the "A" Version upgrade was announced, it was offered as a free upgrade to existing users. Is there a cutoff date for the "free" upgrade? If so, what is it and how much will the upgrade cost after the "free" upgrade cutoff?

Thanks, Carl. It's nice to see JVC representatives' participation. When the "A" Version upgrade was announced, it was offered as a free upgrade to existing users. Is there a cutoff date for the "free" upgrade? If so, what is it and how much will the upgrade cost after the "free" upgrade cutoff?

Bob,

Although I do not have an official document that spells this out, my understanding is that the free upgrade cut-off is July 31st - about 4 months after the upgrade was announced, and that the cost after that is about $150.00.

Regards, Carl