Now that at least 3 people in the world now own the HD1, is it possible to come to some conclusions about its performance? Or at least clear up major misperceptions about the camera? Namely, that:
1--only bright sun and a tripod will result in a decent picture
2--that diagonal lines tilting to from R to L can't be reproduced accurately
3--that the footage is difficult to edit
4--that 4 GB cards aren't compatible yet

Personally I have high hopes for this camera but have had my expectations lowered by reading preliminary reports.

Now that at least 3 people in the world now own the HD1, is it possible to come to some conclusions about its performance? Or at least clear up major misperceptions about the camera? Namely, that:
1--only bright sun and a tripod will result in a decent picture
2--that diagonal lines tilting to from R to L can't be reproduced accurately
3--that the footage is difficult to edit
4--that 4 GB cards aren't compatible yet

Personally I have high hopes for this camera but have had my expectations lowered by reading preliminary reports.

My questions are different.

1--Can the HD1 serve as my primary compact camera?
2--Related to 1 above, will the stills be better or worse than a FUji 700?
a--Forget that the flash is weak. That means little since most small cameras have weak flash. Is the flash and low light operation comparable to a $300 compact camera?
b--Is the speed comparable to my Fuji F700 in terms of shot ot shot still speed and focus speed?
3--I don't care if the video isn't fully HD quality. Is it significantly better than the 640x480 AVI video taken by most compact cameras like my F700?
4--Can the camera function as the primary non-enthusiast video camera?
a--Do you get usable video indoors?
b--Is it automatic enough to just turn on and start takign pictures of kds playing i.e. ability to focus, exposure capability when automatic?

I think the 4GB SD card question has actually been answered in the positive since at least two people have used them successfully in the camera. Computer card readers, however, may not work. You may have to transfer from the camera to the computer via USB.

Paul

"Can we draw some conclusions?"

I don't think so. It's too early.


"Only bright sun and a tripod will result in a decent picture"

A considerable amount of light and competent handheld operation are standard requirements for good videography... would be a less hysterical way of putting it.


"Do you get usable video indoors?"

In my opinion, unless there is a lot of light shining in the window or you actually light the scene, no.

However, many would be as satisfied as they were using handycams indoors in the past.

Because this camera scrapes a HD classification, expectations skyrocket.


"Diagonal lines tilting to from R to L can't be reproduced accurately"

I am getting the jaggies everyone else got.


"The footage is difficult to edit"

Not in Vegas it ain't. Import the HD1 MP4 files directly, make a HDV intermediate so that cutting won't be slow and when you are rendering conform the original MP4 footage - all these options are available without fuss in Vegas 6.

NB: I know the Sanyo HD1 isn't HDV


"4 GB cards aren't compatible yet"

At least two people have used them without difficulty. There is a separate issue relating to SD cards: that cards formatted in-camera may not work elsewhere and vice-versa. Rafael del Campo Garcia doesn't have a problem pulling that off, though - see separate thread http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=62328.

Not an issue for me because of the great docking station used for transfer. If I desperately needed to transport 4GB of files without the cam/docking station/leads in tow I would burn them onto a DVD. People who use SD cards in various readers have a right to be irritated though.


"I don't care if the video isn't fully HD quality. Is it significantly better than the 640x480 AVI video taken by most compact cameras like my F700?"

A different world.


"Is it automatic enough to just turn on and start takign pictures of kids playing i.e. ability to focus, exposure capability when automatic?"

Nearly.

You'll need to use some judgement.

The OLED monitor is better than LCD screens were - which tends to make up for it.

Can you comment more on the diagonal line jaggies you see? Is it only on straight lines? In other words, shooting nature-type footage where straight lines rarely are seen, would it be apparent? Is it so subtle even when it IS present that you really have to look for it to see it? Can you live with it?

Any judgment of cameras is relative to the purpose for which they will be used. An 8 X 10 view camera is more "perfect" than a 35mm, but you wouldn't want to use it for candids.

My personal standard is what looks good on my 60" Sony HDTV. My 50 year-old Kodachromes look terrific at 1920 x 1080 (which is only 2 Megapixels, by the way).

When this discussion began, I was using a Sony PC1000 DV camcorder; its video looked pretty good, but not great. Its 1920 X 1080 stills were not very good. 5 MP stills from a Panasonic FZ20 were excellent, even when reduced to 1920 X 1080.

The Sanyo HD1 has met my expectations. The video looks markedly better than my DV, the stills just as good as those from the Panasonic FZ20. I now have what I wanted, a single, small camera that gives me what I want in video and stills.

The small size brings some issues: it is hard to hold still. I am experimenting with adding some weight at the tripod socket, etc. The only significant complaint (there's always something) is the microphone picking up the sound of the auto focus in quiet environments. I will probably create some sort of very small microphone that plugs into the external mic input.

As always seems to happen to me, I am modifying the camera as soon as I get it!

"Can you comment more on the diagonal line jaggies you see? Is it only on straight lines? In other words, shooting nature-type footage where straight lines rarely are seen, would it be apparent? Is it so subtle even when it IS present that you really have to look for it to see it? Can you live with it?"

I would need to do frame grabs and blow them up, as others have done. Right now all I can say is that based on the blown up frame grabs I saw elsewhere, I am pretty sure the same phenomenon is occuring on my unit.

It's not apparent to me - I wouldn't have even noticed had it not been pointed out - and I can definitely live with it. Indeed, it may be possible to resolve with a firmware upgrade at a Sanyo repair station down the line.

"I now have what I wanted, a single, small camera that gives me what I want in video and stills."

This is one of the great things about this camera. It really does do both. Remember the memory card in the PD1/HD1/10 that was for still capture? The still capture was very poor because all the cam was doing was grabbing frames from the live video. One frame in five was okay, the rest weren't. Unless you were shooting sculpture.

The same problem occurs with still cameras that supposedly shoot movies - all they're really doing is taking advantage of the live video that services the monitor.

The Sanyo HD1 actually does both jobs in a dedicated way.

I've shot a little bit more footage with the camera and the penny is dropping.

The HD1 does not take well to subtle shifts in light.

This explains the whole 'you need a tripod and a sunny day' furore.

You don't need a tripod, you don't need a sunny day.

But now I accept that you do need consistency of light.

Does that mean the dynamic range is more limited than most camcorders, that it can't handle a scene well that has dark shadows as well as areas of bright sun...like, say, a nature scene where shafts of light are illuminating a forest floor that's otherwise in deep shadow from leaves overhead? (Not that any camcorder could reproduce that well!) I'd expose it for the highlight and hope for the best in the shadows. But do you think the HD1 could do a good job at this?

It seems surprisingly good at resolving that kind of thing until the light shifts.

It's early days yet..

3--that the footage is difficult to edit
I'm working on this ;)
(converting to AVI without loss with uncompressed audio for use in any nle.... If you know what's ffmpeg, it can do the job pretty easily)

I wonder if using the 2nd best setting (I don't remember its designation) would eliminate the jaggies. What's the difference between the highest quality (9 MB/sec) and the 6 MB in terms of what the eye can see?
Also, as far as the camera's ability to handle shifting light, is it because the automatic exposure circuitry just isn't sensitive enough and it ends up over-exposing all the time?

Actually I tried the second best setting today - compared SHQ and HQ. I was surprised not to see any difference! Both are the same HD Res. As far as I know the only difference is the 6mb vs 9mb. This has to cause some difference.

Yes, it could be because the automatic exposure circuitry just isn't sensitive enough..

I'm wondering if having the cam on auto is worth it.

That's interesting that the 6 MB setting doesn't look any different from the 9 MB setting. Plus you're getting a lot more recording time on the card! What's going on there?
As for the light issue, you know the f-stop range of that camera is not standard. Why does it only open up to 3.5? And why does it only stop down to f8? Virtually all other camcorder's range is from 1.8 to 16. Clearly there's a limitation here on its ability to handle much variation in light. But why that is I haven't a clue....
Still, its portability makes it so tantalizing.

Graham,

Thanks for the great input.

Paul

A drop to 6MB has to cause some difference. Just can't see it yet. Perhaps because the resolution is the same and because I'm so focused on all the other factors, the lower bitrate isn't making an impression on me. I don't know.

It was better weather in Ireland today and I was able to do more thorough testing outdoors, as opposed to just popping out for a second.

In Auto mode the cam definitely does seem to overexpose outdoors / underexpose indoors. Anybody hoping to point and shoot with this cam will probably find a lot of their HD footage doesn't look HD due to exposure problems.

Adjusting the aperture didn't seem to help, either...

However, I switched from MULTI SECTION LIGHT MEASURING to CENTER WEIGHTED LIGHT MEASURING and found that the light sensitivity problem wasn't as bad. Perhaps Sanyo should have designated CENTER WEIGHTED as default.

Also, when I put the shutter at 1/60, switched the ND filter on and then put the exposure meter (another setting always accessible by simply pushing the joystick to the right) down as far down as it would go, I discovered a much more acceptable image, that personally I quite liked.

However, that's subjective. It also meant shadows were very underexposed and that overall it was very contrasty.

There are a lot of manual settings to get through - even if none provide full range.

It may be possible to find a recipe for getting the most out of this camera, but it is definitely not something that happens automatically or even very easily.

In addition to the 'competent videography' I said was required, some artfulness is needed.

I'm kind of enjoying it, though. It's like I'm using a Super 8 camera or something.

How do you know when you're properly exposed? Do you see some zebra pattern or do you just have to eyeball it and hope for the best?

Graham, was this in shutter priority mode?

Yeah, I'm judging exposure on the cam's OLED monitor and then scrutinizing it afterwards on my 21" ultrascan.

Yes, this was after setting the cam in shutter priority mode. Switched on ND filter, set shutter speed to 1/60, exited from settings and then pulled exposure meter all the way down to boot. It's a cop-out but it looks pretty.

Again, that's subjective. It also means shadows are very underexposed and that overall it is very contrasty.

Graham, I have got to try that and see what the results are. The big problem I have is I don't see the true feedback on the cameras display of how bright the picture is until I hit the record button. I can shift the exposure adjustment all the way down and all the way up and the picture looks the same. Same deal with adjustment of the shutter speed. When I hit the record button the pictures brightness looks totally different from preview. How do I determine the proper level before recording?

FYI, I finally managed to contact someone helpful from Sanyo Fisher Europe about the jagged diagonals. Here is his answer.

"Sorry for the delay in answering because of CeBit.

It is first time I have heard of this effect. The camera has been checked several times
without such complain.
Anyway I am going to provide your complain to the factory."

I guess that instead of "factory" one should read "engineers". I sent them a close-up of the chart shot by Joseph, on which the artifacts are pretty obvious.

That's weird Joseph, because I do get it all on preview. If I toggle the exposure adjustment up or down, it's immideately reflected on the OLED - before I start recording. Same for shutter speed or any other control. I see the effect during preview.

Well done shooting the chart - and well done Emmanuel for getting it to Sanyo!

The Sanyo rep who got back to me (I pasted his e-mail somewhere in this forum) said firmware upgrades would only be available at Sanyo service stations - but I found a page with a firmware upgrade for the C4 or C5. You download it and transfer it to the cam via USB. Then you go into the cam's menus and re-install.

I think that over the next 12 months there will probably be a firmware improvement.

Overcast today.

The cam was much more relaxed. Focus and exposure weren't fussing around. It was consistent.

However, there was actually some noise outdoors due to there being less light.

Regarding Graham's comment; "Actually I tried the second best setting today - compared SHQ and HQ. I was surprised not to see any difference! Both are the same HD Res. As far as I know the only difference is the 6mb vs 9mb. This has to cause some difference."

Viewed on a 60" HDTV, the difference is quite visible. The HD setting has less image sharpness, more jaggies and seemingly less image contrast, though with video you can't tell if the camera has changed the exposure when you changed the setting.

Having gone this far to get image quality, under normal circumstances I am not inclined to give up any for a 48% gain in recording time. I'd rather carry another SD card.

It's obvious to me that a difference exists between 6MB 720p and 9MB 720p, even if it doesn't jump out from a computer monitor.

Having made up my mind that the camera is a keeper (now that I have seen the images on HDTV) I am moving on to the question of how to display edited footage.

I have tentatively ruled out the DVD players (JVC and the soon to be available Kiss DP-600) because they involve streaming HD video over a LAN or burning files to DVD-ROM.

The other option seems to be storing the files on a TViX M500 HDD (I wouldn't attempt streaming). At least two people have reported success using this method with HD1 original files.

That raises the question of format for the edited video. The only option in Vegas seems to be WMV9, which takes forever to render (a 7 second clip took over 3 minutes to render, using a 1.7 Ghz computer).

Comments and suggestions very welcome!

Graham, my preview exposure problems may be due to testing adjustments in lower light indoors latley. I need to try it outdoors again. If I recall, I did get some better feedback when I tried manual modes in more light, bit it was still hard to get it just right. When I hit the record button in a lower light shot the picture on the cameras display get much brighter, so it makes it hard for me to do any manual adjustment. I would like to determine if it is an issue with my camera, or all of them. I get the same thing when I take a picture. If it is dark I need to press the picture button half way so I can frame the shot, because it is too dark otherwise.

Good question about how to view on HDTV.

The answer would most certainly be the HD1 itself, were it not for the fact that footage manipulated on a computer isn't re-admitted by the cam...

-The cam is extremely small and portable, it could service any HDTV you happened to be near
-It has a remote control, so you can watch and control from a comfortable position
-It has a component output for progressive HDTVs so the quality is great
-The camera is solid state, so using it as a 'projector' won't shorten its life

Let's hope this issue can be resolved with the right NLE or with a firmware upgrade.

Just to clear up any misconceptions, the original Xbox lacks both the processing power and HD components to effectively output 720p. The new Xbox (360 Premium) supports our 720p, but drops to 480 when playing movies. Until/unless the mod community comes up with something, no Xbox is a viable viewing system.

Linux boxes are efficient enough to output HDV even if the horsepower is limited. So far, the best low-cost HDV player option I have found is a box my friend was working on... a 2Ghz Linux with Nvidea HDV capable card. His box is able to play the video I sent him, both the 640X480 60fps and the 720p. It's a pretty involved process just to be able to get a cheap HDV player going, but at least it works.

Having made up my mind that the camera is a keeper (now that I have seen the images on HDTV) I am moving on to the question of how to display edited footage.

Peter, I have an mp4 capable DVD player, a HTPC (Windows XP), a Mac mini (G4), and a Linux Server. The XP machine is the most versatile, with Linux coming in 2nd. However, getting a HTPC with Window or Linux working well is a rather large hobby (and I don't think MCE, Vista, or Viiv will come to the rescue either!)

If you try a DVD player or other CE device, be sure to buy from a vendor with a lenient return policy as the performance and feature set of these devices can be dissappointing. I don't use my Panasonic S52 for anything but DVDs as it doesn't fill my Samsung HDTV screen when playing mpeg4 video (black bars all around).

A new core duo Mac mini may be a good compromise between flexibility and ease of use. My G4 is slightly underpowered for HD playback, but the new core duo minis can do it. The DVI output is also a nice feature (VGA adapter included) and the new minis come with "Front Row" and a simple remote control. VLC works well on the Mac and my father in law reported perfect playback with mplayer under Fedora Core Linux so mplayer for the Mac may be an option too. I found QT to be a bit glitchy on the Mac with the HD1 files, though it works well for trimming and processing them (QT Pro).

1--Can the HD1 serve as my primary compact camera?

I am using it as mine, but primary does not mean sole. I use a dSLR camera for indoor photography and it blows the doors off this. If the room is dim, the HD1 just doesn't do the trick. Outside, the distinction is much less significant. I've done 13" X 19" prints of the HD1 outdoor images and consider them suitable for framing.

2--Related to 1 above, will the stills be better or worse than a FUji 700?

A Fuji 700 isn't a lot of camera, what with a max resolution of 1.5MP and an ISO rating of 100 fixed. I'm going to assume you meant it's big brother, the Fuji F700.

The Fuji produces indoor shots using an exteded ISO range that is not present on the HD1, so low-light shots from your Fiji will be better. I don't think HD1 shots taken at ISO 400 or 800 are good for more than a 5 X 7. Do keep in mind that your need to use such ISO settings is entirely dependant on your lighting. I took lots of pictures of my son in the kitchen, and the only light was from the windows, and the pictures were great at ISO 200. Outdoor shots should be about comperable to your Fuji... perhaps a little more compressed but frameable at 13X19.

a--Forget that the flash is weak. That means little since most small cameras have weak flash. Is the flash and low light operation comparable to a $300 compact camera?

When you learn to use it, the flash is sufficient. They all have limitations.

b--Is the speed comparable to my Fuji F700 in terms of shot ot shot still speed and focus speed?

Ummmm..... no. But I counter that question with the fact you can take 5 MP pictures while videoing and not pause or compromise your video. It's fast enough that the loss of shots due to slow AF should be more than offset by the increase in shots while you record videos.

3--I don't care if the video isn't fully HD quality. Is it significantly better than the 640x480 AVI video taken by most compact cameras like my F700?

Yup, that's why I got it. I tested over 50 DV and mini-DVD cams before buying this. Nothing under $2000 produced comperable video. Not full HD quality? Hmmm.... you have to be pretty picky to make this claim, but I suppose. It looks amazing on HDTV though... watching motion video on HDTV, I've yet to see the artifacts that are evident on computer screens. I suppose it's because people are freezing the frames and analyzing them independently... I personally don't see the need to do that when they aren't viewed that way.

I should also mention that I tried a multitude of digicams as well, since I was intent on getting a solid state video recorder. None of the cameras held a candle to this in terms of video quality.

4--Can the camera function as the primary non-enthusiast video camera?

Oh heck yeah!

a--Do you get usable video indoors?

Do you have spotlights indoors? No just kidding. If you have ample lighting, it works well indoors. I find about 100 watts incandescent in a 12 X 12 room to be the minimum for acceptable video. Also note than you will need to choose manual mode for low-light video, as the camera won't jump into the most sensitive ISO setting when on auto.

b--Is it automatic enough to just turn on and start takign pictures of kds playing i.e. ability to focus, exposure capability when automatic?

Sure is... I was recording my son's 9th birthday after only playing 15 mins with it. And I could have done it in two. Allow yourself a few minutes for the wow factor, otherwise you'll be grinning too much as you record. ;)

Graham, here is an example of the preview problem I was complaining about on the camera. I reset the camera before I tried this test. I put the camera in M mode. I set the f stop at 3.5. The ISO is fixed at 50. I set the shutter at 4S. I frame in the kitchen light (OK, but not that bright) that I have posted clips in before. In preview mode the picture on the camera is not very bright, but good enough. I press the record button and the brightness is about the same on the preview while recording. Then I set the shutter to 1/2000 of a second. The preview looks identical to before. When I press the record button the picture is total black during recording. This tells me that the preview is not giving me proper feedback until I press record. Does your camera act in this way?

I wouldn't expect the shutter to preview.

I imagine it would only start functioning once you start recording.

Whereas the exposure bar and the ND filter - they would obviously be visible during preview.

Then again, this is digital, who knows. I will try it tommorow!

"you can take 5 MP pictures while videoing and not pause or compromise your video".

Have you tested that function Chris? I seem to remember Joseph reported that it causes the video to pause. Despite Sanyo's promo where the girl is rolling in the grass and supposedly being captured in still and video at the same time!

Yep, the video was paused in all tests I did when a picture was taken during video.

Graham, I would think adjusting the shutter speed would/should effect the preview, as it is effecting how much light the shot is getting. If the shutter speed is going to over or under expose the shot, then what good its it not to see that on the display until you start recording? On my Z1 I get a preview with maunal controls that matches when I start recording, including shutter speed. The ND filter for sure shows up in preview. I did not notice an effect from the expose bar, but I would like to try it in brighter light.

Hi Graham,

I had not tried that function... One of the reviews right after CES stated that this camera had achieved a first using its "amazing processing engine" that could capture the digital image without pausing the recording. Now I see the review misled me. It doesn't pause the recording, but it does pause the video input to the camera. That's a dissapointment... simultaneous pictures and videos would have been one of the camera's strongest benefits.

Joseph, you're right. On a digital camera the effect of shutter should be visible during preview. I've just tried exactly what you tried and the same thing happened - as soon as I started recording the screen went black. So perhaps shutter speed isn't available in preview..

Chris, yes, I agree they mislead us in relation to that function. The small print warned us but a central part of their selling the cam was that it could do both simultaniously!

Thanks Graham. That makes it hard to use manual controls, when you don't see what you are going to get, does it not? So I guess the best thing to do is use the A or S mode. I supose it I want full manual, I could use the A or S first, to get the proper shutter and fstop, then set the values with the M mode. The reason I would like to use the M mode, is to avoid having the camera adjusting for lighting in the steppy way it does.

Chris,

Thanks for the detailed reply. It really helps. I gather the video meets my requirements. The F700 doesn't do great in low light either (video that is).

I mentioned the speed difference because it was one of the main reasons for getting the F700. Prior to that I had (still have) a Ricoh RDC-7. Turn it on "Hey wait, I'm waking up here and I'm sleepy." Take a shot "Ok, let me see um I'll try to focus here. Just give me a bit will ya." Then have it store "I'm moving the bits as fast as I can. Please wait." My wife and I lost lots of great moments because the RDC-7 couldn't keep up.

I asked about the focus speed because the RDC-7 was horrible. The F700 has a focus assist light and I am very happy with the Fuji now that Fuji has fixed the bad CCD (for free!). The lack of focus assist on the Sanyo has me worried.

My question on auto settigns came because of all of the posts sayignyou had to set ISO, shutter speed etc. manually to get good shots. My wife wants to turn it on and use it. It needs to work on an "auto everything" setting.

I am eager to hold one so that I can get a feel for how big or small the camera feels. THe F700 is aboutthe right size for my wife's purse. It isn't nearly as small as the current crop of cameras but she says that is ok. I think the HD1 will work for us once I can scape together the funds.

Paul

"That makes it hard to use manual controls, when you don't see what you are going to get, does it not?"

It doesn't cause a problem for me personally because I'm used to only seeing the effect of the shutter when I start rolling.

Also, because we're shooting on SD cards we can shoot for a second to see what a shutter speed does - then instantly delete that 'test clip'.

The other settings are perfectly visible during preview, so I guess it could be worse.

But ultimately you are correct - on a digital camera the effect of shutter should be accessible during preview.

"My question on auto settigns came because of all of the posts sayignyou had to set ISO, shutter speed etc. manually to get good shots. My wife wants to turn it on and use it. It needs to work on an "auto everything" setting."

Paul, I would recommend testing the cam first.

Like you, I appreciate a decent "auto everything" for use in certain situations, but that's not this cam's strength at all...

I have received an e-mail asking about that firmware upgrade for an earlier Xacti model I had spotted.

In case anyone else is interested, here it is:

http://www.sanyo.de/produkte_eng/digitalimaging/camcorder/produkt_softwareupdate_c1.asp?IAD=0&AID=0&P_ID=1&ptyp=2

Let's hope a similar approach is taken with the HD1!

Hi HD1-owners !

Is it possible for one of you to post one or more movie clips from low light environments ? Example a livingroom in the evening/night with normal (and only) incandescent lightening. If possible, clips with full auto, and clips with manual settings.

And what is your experiences with HD1 in low light compared to other movie cameras ?

Best regards
Kjetil, Norway

Graham, just curious how quick Sanyo is on releasing upgrades. Was it issued weeks, months or years after the release of the C1?

No idea, sorry.

I simply googled, curious to know whether the Xacti line had a history of updating firmware.

Actually, my national Sanyo repair crowd says I would have to visit them to get such an update. If within warranty it would be free, otherwise it would cost about €50. They seemed unawares that a C1 update was downloadable.

Or maybe they are fully aware of that - but the HD1 is going to be a totally different story.

My hunch is that we will see a firmware update within 12 months - whether online or in repair centres.

The interest in the HD1 is far greater than the interest in earlier Xactis.

I've heard there will be a short period during which it will become difficult to get one - that they only manufactured 5,000 to start with.

Sounds unlikely to me, but I don't know much about that kind of thing.

See Below


1--Can the HD1 serve as my primary compact camera?

No one here can answer this it depends on your wants needs and expectations

2--Related to 1 above, will the stills be better or worse than a FUji 700?

I dont have a fuji 700 so I can say. I can say I prefer the still sfrom my casio z57 but that 10x just rocks !! so its a toss up I say yes.

a--Forget that the flash is weak. That means little since most small cameras have weak flash. Is the flash and low light operation comparable to a $300 compact camera?

Dont know. I have a Casio Z57 I think its better it low light but not by much I think the flash in the Sanyo is fine but I dont plan to do much still shooting with it.

b--Is the speed comparable to my Fuji F700 in terms of shot ot shot still speed and focus speed?

My casio is faster but the sanyo really is not far behind at all. its pretty quick. and the flash recharge time is DEFINATELY faster than my casio (pretty impressive really)

the shot to shot in single shoot mode is under 2 seconds. it can also d 3 shots in about half a second.

3--I don't care if the video isn't fully HD quality. Is it significantly better than the 640x480 AVI video taken by most compact cameras like my F700?


So far it is better than ANY under $500 camera I have ever touched and better than ANY video from a digital still camera.


4--Can the camera function as the primary non-enthusiast video camera?

I would say yes. It also has a sickeningly amazing macro mode !!

a--Do you get usable video indoors?

Depends. Normal "lit" indoors absolutely (to me at least) Candle light or dark restaurant ? NO not even close will need aux lighting. then again not one of my $500 of less camcorder could do this either.


b--Is it automatic enough to just turn on and start takign pictures of kds playing i.e. ability to focus, exposure capability when automatic?

Absolutely. two dedicated buttons right for video left for pictures. if you set it for 1.2mp it can seemlessly take pictures WHILE shooting video without interuption. higher than 1.2 and the video will "stall" during that moment when you took the picture and then resume.


I think the 4GB SD card question has actually been answered in the positive since at least two people have used them successfully in the camera. Computer card readers, however, may not work. You may have to transfer from the camera to the computer via USB.

Just find a card reader that does work. that issue is totally irrelevant since card readers are ultra cheap.

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/