Hi,

I'm buying an hdr-fx1 in two weeks time, and I'm going to need a few accesories. Amongst them is a tripod and a shoulderbrace.

I need a shoulderbrace I can mount with my mini-rover L-grip and the Beachtek DXA-FX. I'm going to use it for interviewing in crowds and such (handheld filming and intervieweing at the same time).

And then I just need a fairly good tripod.

And please not too expensive ;)

Thanks!

Thomas Hartz-Olsson

Hi there guys.

I was wondering if you could reccomend me a good, sturdy tripod. It would be great if you could link me to U.K websites. Thanks in advance.

What's your budget and what camera does it need to work with?

Hi Oliver... I have been researching tripods for camcorders for sometime. I have decided to go for the 516,515PKIT. This is a complete kit consisting of the Manfrotto 515MVB Pro Video Tripod, the 516 Pro Video Head, the 3141BALL Half Ball, the 3138 Spreader and the MBAG100P Padded Tripod Bag. For what I am looking for this will def do the job and will do for many years to come.

After looking around UK sites a good lot www.proav.co.uk is where I got the best price for this tripod. All the best.

Nice one - this is for my HDR-FX1E.

For the previous poster, any price is okay, just as long as it isn't, say, 400 pounds.

I phoned up to order this tripod but the guy who I was talking with suggested the 503 head and 525 tripod, which I had looked at too. He does wedding videos, which is what I want this for and he says the other one I suggested about was way over kill for the fx1 which is what I have. Its also a good bit cheaper so I ordered it on the spot!!! Hope this helps.

Cheers Andrew, that was helpful. I myself have got a wedding coming up in July, and I thought it would be nice to film it for the family.

I have just bought this Manfrotto kit from CKE in Shipley near Bradford. The legs are very rigid and the head is very smooth. The downside for me is the spreader, which is floor level, as I shall be using the tripod outdoors. I shall have to get a mid-level spreader for this. The Squid pattern looks interesting, but it is very expensive, and I am not sure if the advantages it offers are worth the extra £100 over the standard model.

I'm in the UK too so I have a couple of extra links you may want to check out for equipment et al

http://www.videokit.co.uk
http://www.creativevideo.co.uk
http://www.wtsbroadcast.com
http://www.digibroadcast.com

Hope these help ;)

just as long as it isn't, say, 400 pounds.

Hmmm... that limits things a bit if buying new. The Vinten Pro 5 is one of the cheapest at £250, but it's not a patch on the Manfrotto. You'll want something better within months of buying the Vinten. You'll also get good at disassembling the head to tighten it up, and don't lose the special allen key to tighten the legs. A leg can slowly and unperceptably slide if the quick-release mechanism is not really tight.

if you've got the time, watch out for Sachtlers on eBay. I had to wait 9 months before a good one came along. :)

somebody please help me to find a good tripod and a good head for a sony FX1. I want the tripod and head for weedings and some events. I want stabilty for the tripod and head

Buy Manfrotto/Bogen

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=221742&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

Jon

I have a Manfrotto 501 head like that, and it's a good value but not very well suited for applications where you'll be shooting at full zoom. The movement just isn't smooth enough and you will notice a jerk at the beginning of a pan or tilt. Those legs might also be a little shaky for work at the telephoto end of the zoom range. But if you're on a tight budget it's probably not a bad compromise. You'll probably have to go into the $800 range or higher to get to the next level of quality.

I use my Manfrotto 501/3221 setup when I want something smaller and lighter for my Z1 - if I'm hiking around the woods for example. But for shooting an event at full zoom I'm not happy with it. I have the Miller DS-5 with the aluminum legs for that. However I bought the Miller for a smaller and lighter camera originally. It works fine with the Z1, but I would have gone with the DS-10 if doing it over again.

I suggest you browse through this forum as there's lots of discussion about tripods suitable for the Z1 and FX1.

Buy a Gitzo 1380 head use the green spring and a Miller solo dv tripod. Dont forget to get a Varizoom VZ-Rock(helps keep your hands off the camera). Use one hand to focus on the camera and use the other hand on the varizoom for zooming. I promise with this setup you can get some awesome camera moves, would not trade mine for anything.

Dont forget to get a Varizoom VZ-Rock(helps keep your hands off the camera).

Before buying any sort of LANC controller for the FX1 or Z1 you should be aware that they cannot access the full range of zoom speeds on these cameras unfortunately. In fact, this is one of the few things with which I'm unhappy on the Z1. With the LANC controller I can't even zoom as slowly as I could on my little Sony PDX-10. This is a limitation of the camera, and will be the same with all brands of zoom controllers. I have simply stopped using the LANC altogether with my Z1, and even though it's awkward I use the rocker zoom since it's the only way to acheive a subtle slow zoom.

See the following thread for some in-depth discussion: http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=55047

they cannot access the full range of zoom speeds on these cameras unfortunately.

Here's one that I think does:

http://www.bebob.de/international/zoe-III_eng.html

Albeit not having all the speeds all the time. The little thumbwheel at the side kind of gears its range up and down a wider scale. Not usually a problem, just means finding the right range whilst you set up.

When I get some time, will try your 'slowest ever Z1 zoom' timings, but I've definately prefer the Bebob over the rocker.

I've been using the Shot Transition feature a lot recently for slow, controlled zooms - especially accross artwork and photographs.
It's got a great feature of being able to choose a ramp up-and -down to the zoom as well.
Did you guys realise that you can also change ALL the controls (focus, zoom, gain, colour balance etc )from A to B? (not that I'm sure where or when you'd need all those controls to change...)

Robin

I don't think any controllers will allow you to access the slow zoom on the Z1/FX1. See the response from Tom McKay at Varizoom in the thread I linked above. But by all means do some tests and please post the results to that thread. If the BeBob will give me a slow zoom I'll probably buy one.

Robin, I haven't used the shot transition much but when I looked before my recollection is that the slowest zoom possible is 22 seconds, like the handle zoom and LANC speed. That is just not acceptable for event work where you need something subtle.

But I'd love to be proven wrong! If you can figure out a way to make this work please let me know. However, I don't think shot transition is going to be a practical alternative for event shooting on the fly....

I have two Z1s and I have two Sachtler tripods (DV2II head and DA75/2 legs). I had a GL1 prior and had an inexpensive tripod---I'll never make that mistake again. Go with the very best head and tripod you can afford. You will be amazed at the difference. JimT
PS Here is B and H link:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=383252&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

I don't think any controllers will allow you to access the slow zoom on the Z1/FX1. See the response from Tom McKay at Varizoom in the thread I linked above. But by all means do some tests and please post the results to that thread. If the BeBob will give me a slow zoom I'll probably buy one.

Robin, I haven't used the shot transition much but when I looked before my recollection is that the slowest zoom possible is 22 seconds, like the handle zoom and LANC speed. That is just not acceptable for event work where you need something subtle.

But I'd love to be proven wrong! If you can figure out a way to make this work please let me know. However, I don't think shot transition is going to be a practical alternative for event shooting on the fly....

Boyd

Now it seems I have something unique on my hands!!! I checked your post using the LANC and Varizoom and it didn't make sense to me from what I remembered from my own Z1.

I just did a test a few minutes ago with VZ stealth LANC controller and this is what I get:
Z1 - slowest I get from the controller is about 58secs!! I kid you not!!
FX1 - here's the funny part - I get about 24 secs??????

There must be something in the Z1 or in the controller which is unique - lol. I'm just smiling at this moment.

Maybe Tom can throw some light as to why its like this. BTW, mines a Z1E - don't know if it makes a difference - FX1E as well.

I definitely want to check this against another Z1E

Hmm... slowest I can get with Z1E+Bebob Zoe = 24 sec
and slowest I can get with Z1E+VZStealth = ......24 sec!

Thats what is so weird about this one!.

I must add that the camera went to Sony for repairs (I had dropped the cam from scaffolding after the twit gaffer forgot to tie down the lats) so maybe they tweaked/changed/added firmware or something.

One thing is a cert - I ain't letting this one go in a hurry!!!!

Hello everyone! I have been working in broadcast for 13 years and with the prices of HDV cameras becoming more affordable, I am researching cameras to make a purchase for freelance work that I do. My question is, I have a older CSI tripod with a good fluid head on it. Right now it has a standard Sony tripod plate for broadcast cameras.

What tripod plate does the Z1U use and how does everyone adapt the Z1U to a professional tripod?

Unfortunately, the online brochures or manuals say nothing about tripod mounts.

Thanks.

Welcome to DVinfo Michael! The Z1 has a a hole for a standard 1/4-20 threaded tripod screw and a smaller unthreaded hole in front of it for a locating pin (to keep it from twisting). So in other words, the tripod mount on the Z1 is exactly the same as all the other small camcorders on the market; no special plate is needed.

Unfortunately I'm not really familiar with the large broadcast camera mounting plates, so I'm not exactly sure what you would need to adapt. Do they use 3/8" screws perhaps?

Thanks Boyd. It's actually a plate that slides into the tripod head and locks. I am just not sure if I need to find a special plate that fits Z1U and the tripod.

I am looking at purchasing the Z1U if a project goes through and by the time I get the camera to the time I start shooting is a only a few days. So I am trying to prepare to order everything I absolutely need to get me throught the first shoot.

As a side note, this forum is a invaluable resource. I have been using it for a lot of research in preperation for my shoot.

is there not a scew/s coming out of the sliding plate? There ought to be, since it can then be attached to the camera. As Boyd said, you'll need a standard 1/4-20 thread screw for the Z1...


Robin

is there not a scew/s coming out of the sliding plate? There ought to be, since it can then be attached to the camera. As Boyd said, you'll need a standard 1/4-20 thread screw for the Z1...


Robin

broadcast cameras mount differently, you have adapt for the the shoulder mount on most of the broadcast cameras, its not not flat bottom.

broadcast cameras mount differently, you have adapt for the the shoulder mount on most of the broadcast cameras, its not not flat bottom.

Of course, but there is still an interface between the long plate that bridges the shoulder mount - this is the piece that comes with the head always and will have screws to screw into the bridging plate...

Robin

I have sort of rigged my Z1U for my tripod. Basically I screwed the plate that usually mounts to the quick release plate straight into the camera, but I have to leave this mounted. Do they make a quick release plate for the Z1U?

I use a quick release from Videosmith. I have used it on a TRV 900, PD150/170,FX1 and ZI.

http://www.videosmith.com/shop/

Do you use the Rover Snap Quick Release? I think this is just what I am looking for.

Yup, the Rover MightyWonderCam Snap Quick Release. Works absolutely great. I think they go for $62.
JH

Alright, I assume when you say the plate for broadcrast cameras, I assume you mean the standard for all the Sony cameras (post UMatic era), with the V-ish shape on the front. (Known as a VCT-14, or Beta-type QR plate)

The plate on it's own, has a series of 1/4" and 3/8" holes on the bottom, making possible to mount to (almost) any tripod.

Which means, yes you can mount your run of the day BetaSP cam to a Wal-mart tripod... not that it'd hold up the weight. This plate, should attatch to a series (at least two I hope) screws, on the CSI head. There should be a quick release, on the CSI head, that reveals a plate, in which reveals the screws, to be unscrewed. With this plate, you may remove the beta QR plate, and use the smaller of the two screws to attatch it to any camera with a tripod. I have attatched a Digi8 consumer cam, to a Sachtler Video18 head, just for laughs.

...only Sony Digital8 on a HotPod.

Depending on your CSI head, and the size of the QR plate, it may or may not inhibit with the tape door, depending on the way it opens.

Also, I'd be careful, if using the CSI. It's getting hard to find support for CSI equipment, last I heard they were dealing through Daiwa, and then nothing. A google on CSI tripod, mostly gets info on that CSI:NY episode where the ENG photog flogs the reporter in the head with a tripod.

I have moved from the DV to the HDV world, and I have to upgrade my tripods as well.

What do you recommend?

Mark, it really depends on your budget. One thing I find with tripods is that bang for buck and quality are both highly subjective depending on the individual. There are people who swear by the cheaper stuff like Bogen, and others who recommend more expensive gear. I'm of the latter, having used a 501 head for several years, and just recently upgraded to a Miller Arrow 30. So I've gone from one end of the spectrum to the other.
What sold me was going to NAB and trying all the different tripods out. The Miller was by far the smoothest, and that to my mind just offers so much more production value.
The most important thing is to try before you buy. If you can't find a tripod that you like and can afford, consider renting a high quality tripod until you can afford what you want. That's what I did.
To really torture test a tripod head for smoothness of motion, use it with your HDV camera, and try very small corrections. See if you can follow a subject smoothly, even when zoomed in. Don't just whip the camera back and forth to feel how smooth the head is. I find with the 501 that it sticks at the start of motion, so if I'm doing an interview shot, and the subject moves slightly, its difficult to make small corrections without the camera jerking. Some people don't consider this any big deal, others (like me) are more picky.

.......
The most important thing is to try before you buy. If you can't find a tripod that you like and can afford, consider renting a high quality tripod until you can afford what you want. That's what I did.
To really torture test a tripod head for smoothness of motion, use it with your HDV camera, and try very small corrections.......

Cal,

Thank you for the wonderful reply. You told me WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW. Turns out there is an equipment show around here next week, and I definitely plan to take my Z1 along and do some hands on testing. I too got a 501 head a while back and had just the situation you describe. It is sort of ok for DV coverage of social events, but for more critical commercial work ESPECIALLY in HDV, tripod head smoothness is much more critical.

Glad to help Mark. I just got my Miller Arrow 30 today, tried it out with my XL2. It's great. While its a tripod that was more expensive than my camera, its a total end game in terms of smoothness. I realize its probably way more than you want to spend ($5199), but man, it works so well. Hopefully I'll be shooting with it this weekend. Post back how things go with your testing.

Mark, for a decent tripod you'll be spending at least twelve hundred, possibly more. I like the Vinten sticks and Vision heads. Abel sells Panther tripods and they are very well made and very robust. The Sachtler DV 2 and DV4 heads seem pretty flimsy to me, but the 6 and 8 are better, also more expensive.

The Z1, even fully tricked out won't be more than about twelve pounds, unless you put it on a Movietube, or something. It's center of gravity is pretty low, so counterbalance isn't as big a deal. A smaller tripod with a 75mm bowl may be the way to go.

Just keep in mind what you are doing now and what you may be doing in the future.

I got a Gitzo 1380 Fluide head with Gitzo 1325V carbon tripod. 75mm levelling ball head. I love it. Best tripod I ever tried.

Here's a nice review of the combo here (slightly different model numbers used when sold as a combo, but it's the same):

http://www.viewonline.com/pages/articles/gitzo.htm

Vito, that looks like a great little tripod. Mark, its probably worth checking that one out. The only thing I really advocate is the "try before you buy". When I worked as a camera op at a TV station, myself and another op both liked a "heavy feel" to our head movement, and I remember him echoing my sentiments of how can anyone be smooth with a loose feel to their head. But, there are people out there who just have a different touch, can easily work with less resistance and therefore the definition of "smooth feel" can vary a lot. The camera that the guy is using in the Gitzo review is a lot heavier than what you're going to be using. This is why is so important that you try it yourself with the camera or similar weighing camera that you intend to use.
I've never tried the Gitzo that Vito is recommending, but Gitzo is a good name, and the price is sure right. The fact that they are talking about the different springs is a good sign, that is what allows the head to be effective with different camera weights. The only thing I thought was weird in the review was the spreader (worst design for tripods).. uh, all spreaders are removable, and just wait til you try to but 20lbs on those sticks on a slick tile floor (if you go with this tripod, and you're going to run into this situation, just try to take a piece of deep shag carpet with you). Other than that, it sounds good and I wish I'd heard about it before commiting to the Miller Arrow 30, though I'm still thrilled with my purchase.

The Gitzo 1380 head looks suspiciously like the Vinten 3. They have the same interchangeable spring setup. They're also about the same price. I've never used a Vinten 3 but people on here who have them seem to like them.

If you like the Gitzo legs, you might want to wait a few more months for the new 6X carbon fiber legs to come out. Gitzo has been updating their entire line with the 6X features and they announced the new models recently at Photokina. The 6X legs are slightly lighter because of 1 mm wall tubes (versus the old 1.5mm tubes) but they're just as rigid because of the six layers of alternating longitudinal and crossed carbon fibers. Also, the leg lock collars have been improved to hold better and the legs have the anti-rotation feature, which eliminates a common complaint about Gitzo's locking system.

As for the original poster, I'd recommend looking at the following if your budget is around $1500:

Gitzo 1380
Vinten Vision 3
Cartoni Focus
Sachtler DV6-SB

I can't really recommend the Miller DS-5 or DS-10 or the lower end Sachtlers because they only have one drag setting. IMO, you really need a range of drag settings because a light setting is good for fast whip pans and a heavier setting is essential for very slow moves or moves on telephoto. The larger Millers like Cal's Arrow 30 have stepped drag and are very nice but I'm not sure if they will balance a Z1 unless you pile on the accessories or raise the camera a little higher.

But like Cal said, always try out these heads in person with a live camera if you can. They all operate a little differently and they all feel a little different. A lot of it comes down to personal preferences.

The Gitzo 1380 head looks suspiciously like the Vinten 3. They have the same interchangeable spring setup.

Actually, I take this back. After looking at some of the Vinten maintenance manuals, I think the Gitzo 1380 is more similar to the Vinten PRO-130 (but they may not be exact). The inner workings of the Vinten Vision 3 is very different from the PRO-130, but it is basically identical to the Vision 6 and Vision 8. The main difference is the Vision 6 and 8 do not have interchangeable springs but a counterbalance adjust knob instead.

Gitzo 1380 with the Z1 is awsome. We have tried many but the 1380 with Gitzo/Bogen service and repair dept and also trade in old equipment for new at a small price, Its hard to beat. We have 13 of them and never had a problem.

I have the Cartoni Focus...

surprisingly good and it will take both small cameras and big cameras just by rotating the spring adjustment. Cost me £1000 but the head feels like it is from a tripod 3 times that price! Very very smooth.

Phil

Just bought a miller 1511 solo with ds10 head. Will let you know how it feels with a sony 170 5.5lbs on it when it is delivered. It is weighted for cameras 5 to 10lbs and I would say probley 12 lbs at a push. This will set you back $1300 or so.

Im running a Miller DS10 Solo with my Z1, works perfectly with a shotgun, radio reciever and sun gun. Although i can't say i've had a mattebox or follow focus set up on it. Although im sure it'd take it fine. Miller make great sticks and heads.

I posted to start this thread. Right now I have a set of Bogen 3040 legs, Bogen leveler, and 501 head. I'm lloking for something new that is a better fit for HD. I am still looking, but probably won't sell this set of sticks. It has a raisable center column which is handy for some situations, and the 501 head, although anything but great, is better than some fancier rigs.

I was at a trade show and got to compare some of the models. So far the front runner is the Sachtler DV6SB with 3-stage CF legs. I saw the Cartoni pods at the WEVA trade show, but the HiDV model and others suited for the Z1 have been out of stock, and I have lost patience with them. I would be afraid to need a spare or repair part for one of their systems.

Aside from the Sachtler, I thought the Vintens were smoothest. As to Miller, I'd have to move up to one of the Arrow models for the performance I need.

No decision yet. I post a followup.

"I was at a trade show and got to compare some of the models. So far the front runner is the Sachtler DV6SB with 3-stage CF legs. "

I have the DV6 head and have used it with the FX-1. It is a great fit especially if you have wireless, shotgun and light. One thing to consider is the sticks, there is an aluminum version of the called 75L, it is a 2 stage. Notice the wider bottom tube. I found this version to have the least amount of flex when raised to eye level. I found more flex in the Carbon fiber and alum 3 stage pods, kind of odd since they are both more expensive than the 75L alum version. One draw back is that the 75L does not go as low as the others but I have found I would rather use a steady bag on the ground when I want low effect shots. The recent addition of a mid level spreader has made the Sachtler DV6 sytem one of the best in its class in my opinion. The nice thing is that if you rent a larger camera you can still use this tripod since it can handle up to 20 lbs. I have used it with betacams and Sony full size DV cams with good results. You could get away with using a XDHDcam with this system and save a little rental hassle by already having the support. Keep in mind it is not ideal for these larger cameras but it work for rentals and it does not harm the head but you have to keep the ball very tight.

Hi Mark:

I have been using the Sachtler DV-6SB with the Miller Solo DV carbon fibre legs and it is a dream setup with the HVX-200. I would think would also be likewise with your Z1.

I have tried out just about everything on the market and while there are lots of good ones out there, I always come back to Sachtler, they just feel "right" to me, probably since I used a Video 18 with my Betacam for 6 years. The Miller heads are not quite the same to me. I like the Vintens but I always figure if I can afford Vinten, I can also afford a Sachtler and I like the Sachtler just a bit better although if someone bought me one, I would love it.

Good luck,

Dan

im finally getting a real camera thats HD and i cant actually wait and wanted to know what other people use? what tripod and what head? thanks in advance. im still reading through the forums and getting a good idea of what it what but all the help i can get would be appreciated :-)