The reason I want a filter as protection different from a lens cap is because I want to film in dusty/dirty conditions such as out at sea.

1) Which front element do you mean, that of the camera, filter or of the wide-angle lens? Does manual focus solve this (I guess so)?.The front-glass element of the WA 0.7x convertor. When shooting into the sun (or approx. in that direction) any dust on the surface of the WA lens will reflect the sunlight ("flare out") and the camera *could* focus on that instead of the actual shot. (at wide-angle end, not telephoto).
Either way it'll be visible so keep the front of your WA lens very clean.
Manual focus would indeed fix it, but that's a bit of a pain to be constantly adjusting manual focus. Just keep all lens surfaces clean, and if you're shooting in low-ish bright sunlight, use your other hand to shield the front of the lens from the sun. You should easily be able to see on the LCD screen when you need to do this.

I have decided to opt for 37mm filters as they, as confirmed by Stu, show no vignetting in video mode (only a little in photo mode). Furthermore, it makes the set up cheaper and above all, lower in weight/size. A matt box or something would make it far less portable. The HDR-HC1 is a learning camera for me which I intend to use for learning purposes to get familiar with cinematography, editing and thinking about visual motion. I am addicted to getting everything, which I figured is not needed. With some filters and a good day/field bag and some cleaning materials, I am ready for my vacation as well as the documentary about my grandmother. The polariser is a certainity, as well as the ND filter. I am only not sure if I go for the 4x, or for the 2x, 4x and 8x ND filter. Not sure if it makes much difference. BH recommended me the 4x filter, which seems logical to me.

The 4x ND will soak 2 stops and is probably the most useful to have. Your HC1 has an automatic internal ND to stop the lens shooting at apertures smaller than f/8, so if it's bright that internal filter could well do with some help in the form of the 4x you'll screw up front. Of course you can stack filters but it's not recommended.

I have one other question. The circular polariser can be turned around for a different effect. If it is attached to the Sony Y lens, how do I turn it around? I do not completely understand how this mechanism will work.

The polariser will take some getting used to. It'll soak 1.5 stops and it's polarising effects are determined by where you stand in relation to the sun and where the filter is rotated to on your camera. It's a bit of suck-it-and-see, but the good thing is our v'finders are wysiwyg devices working at taking aperture, so you do get some indication of what the filter is doing for you.

tom.

The polariser will take some getting used to. It'll soak 1.5 stops and it's polarising effects are determined by where you stand in relation to the sun and where the filter is rotated to on your camera. It's a bit of suck-it-and-see, but the good thing is our v'finders are wysiwyg devices working at taking aperture, so you do get some indication of what the filter is doing for you.

tom.

As always, many thanks for your great advice. When I have all my gear and did some shoots / productions, I hope to give some feedback back to this board as everyone here has been of great value for me right from the start.

I have on more question. If I manually set the shutter speed to 1/30 of a second, the camera cannot control the light with the shutter anymore, but only by changing the iris, or in dark situations, increase gain. In a place with lots of sun, like italy, it seems logical to me that I do need the 8x ND filter as well, as the 1/30 shutter speed is pretty low. I remember that with my DSLR, in bright sunlight, 1/1000 - 1/2000 is a common shutter speed. That's 6 or 7 stops of sunlight from the 1/30 I might use.

Why are you shooting at 1/30th sec? You're NTSC, right? Shoot at 1/60th unless you're after some special effect. You'll get better quality footage.

Your camera has an inbuilt ND that will soak 3 stops. The aperture blades close to f/4 as it gets brighter, then they stay at f/4 as it gets even brighter, the internal ND pretending that the lens is going to f/5.6, then f/8 then f/11. If it gets brighter still, the aperture starts to close again, going to f.5.6 (equal to f/16) then f/8 (its smallest actual aperture, equal to f/22).

It's for this reason that I believe an ND4 will be all that you require. Alternatively you could up the shutter speed to 1/125th sec and not bother with external ND.

Have fun in Italy. I've been to Venice three times and you just can't stop shooting, believe me.

tom.

I have one other question. The circular polariser can be turned around for a different effect. If it is attached to the Sony Y lens, how do I turn it around? I do not completely understand how this mechanism will work.You screw polarizer onto camera, then the Y lens onto the polariser (slightly fiddly as half the polarizer is fixed, and half is free-rotating.) and so to rotate the filter, you simply rotate the Y lens. Make sure that the filter is screwed in *relatively* well onto the camera. you do not want to be inadvertantly *unscrewing* the pol filter when you´re rotating the Y lens and have the Y lens drop to the ground....
But don't overtighten the pol filter - its quite easy for it to go on TOO tight and then a real PITA to get off. I know - i´ve sliced skin off my fingers trying to get a too-tight filter off before. If you can - buy a 37mm filter-wrench before you go. It´s simple and effective. Try B&H or a good photo store as cheapNcrappy stores won´t have a clue what you´re talking about !
If you can´t get a 37mm filter wrench i recommend a thickish rubber band round the pol filter before you attach Y lens. Helps get it off if it´s stubborn.

Max. polarization is when you are shooting about 90degrees to the sun´s rays. i.e. sun is approx. left or right of you. When sun is directly in front or directly behind there´s little pol effect. But you just shoot any angle you want - it´s not an exact science at all.
Rotate the filter slowly and look at LCD and you should see the effect vary.
Don´t forget to take the filter off after day shoots - if you´re doing evening / twilight filming there´s no pol effect and all it´s doing is absorbing 1.5stops of light which is not good (especially with A1!) So remember to take it off when sun´s gone. Also there´ll be very little to no effect at all or a cloudy day. Try it out on surface of water (eg a boat trip). It can give good reduction in reflections, making water look deeper /darker / nicer.

Recommend you use all this new gear before you depart. - you want to concentrate on the subject when you're there, not trying to figure out new equipment.

Hey Laurence, or anybody.
I have an A1 and have been trying different matte boxes and sun shades; including the LH77, all of which I am not satisfied with. Century optics looks like they have a nice sun shade, but I can't find the correct step down ring.
Could you please tell me which adapter ring to use with this century sun shade ? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=274303&is=REG
Thanks, Lou

You screw polarizer onto camera, then the Y lens onto the polariser (slightly fiddly as half the polarizer is fixed, and half is free-rotating.) and so to rotate the filter, you simply rotate the Y lens. Make sure that the filter is screwed in *relatively* well onto the camera. you do not want to be inadvertantly *unscrewing* the pol filter when you´re rotating the Y lens and have the Y lens drop to the ground....
But don't overtighten the pol filter - its quite easy for it to go on TOO tight and then a real PITA to get off. I know - i´ve sliced skin off my fingers trying to get a too-tight filter off before. If you can - buy a 37mm filter-wrench before you go. It´s simple and effective. Try B&H or a good photo store as cheapNcrappy stores won´t have a clue what you´re talking about !
If you can´t get a 37mm filter wrench i recommend a thickish rubber band round the pol filter before you attach Y lens. Helps get it off if it´s stubborn.

Max. polarization is when you are shooting about 90degrees to the sun´s rays. i.e. sun is approx. left or right of you. When sun is directly in front or directly behind there´s little pol effect. But you just shoot any angle you want - it´s not an exact science at all.
Rotate the filter slowly and look at LCD and you should see the effect vary.
Don´t forget to take the filter off after day shoots - if you´re doing evening / twilight filming there´s no pol effect and all it´s doing is absorbing 1.5stops of light which is not good (especially with A1!) So remember to take it off when sun´s gone. Also there´ll be very little to no effect at all or a cloudy day. Try it out on surface of water (eg a boat trip). It can give good reduction in reflections, making water look deeper /darker / nicer.

Recommend you use all this new gear before you depart. - you want to concentrate on the subject when you're there, not trying to figure out new equipment.

All my gear is underway at this moment. The only two things I did not buy at this moment are the polarizer and the fluid video head for my tripod. The rest is awaiting shipping at BH Photo Video. As the Cavision LH77 is a special order, it might take a little longer to get here.

Hey Laurence, or anybody.
I have an A1 and have been trying different matte boxes and sun shades; including the LH77, all of which I am not satisfied with. Century optics looks like they have a nice sun shade, but I can't find the correct step down ring.
Could you please tell me which adapter ring to use with this century sun shade ? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=274303&is=REG
Thanks, Lou

Interesting. I just ordered the LH77, as I reckon it is the cheapest and most used option available. If there are other, better options I am interesed. You say you also used matt boxes, can you tell me something about that? How well did this work and why do you not use it anymore?

I tried a chrosziel 4x4 matte box with 104mm opening. However, 77mm of the Sony WA seems to be and odd size to step down. I could not find the proper adapter, plus this matte box is over kill. I also trie a Century optics sun shade, 4x4, Model #FH4400. I can get this sunshade to fit with 2 rubberbands, but that seems too Mickey Mouse, plus the position and the size of the filter opening seems to be to small for the lens. I like the shape of the LH77 because the sunshade flares open immediaterly as it leaves the lens, thereby decreasing the chance of any vignetting. What I didn't like is that it has 1 set screw to hold it on rather than a CLAMP. Because the sunshade is made of rubber, the set screw distorts the the sunshade when you tighten it. On a tripod, it works fine, but I think if you were shooting on a windy day, it would fall off. It's just not heavy duty enough for me.
Now the Century optic sunshade #DSFA8200, looks like the LH77, but it is made of metal. It also has a CLAMP.
So, I will put this question out again- Does anyone know where I can get an adapter ring that fits this sunshade to match the 77mm WA?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=274303&is=REG

So, I will put this question out again- Does anyone know where I can get an adapter ring that fits this sunshade to match the 77mm WA?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=274303&is=REG


Lou, the answer you're looking for is on the FIRST PAGE of this thread. Lawrence used that very same sunshade (the Century Optics DSFA8200) and this item:

7) Stepdown ring from www.cavision.com
Ask for the one to step down from their LH80 M/P lens hood to a Sony VCL-HG0737Y wide angle lens. The Cavision LH80 M/P also has an internal diameter of 80mm.


I'd suggest calling them and asking for what Lawrence posted.

2¢

Lou,
I have/had the same problem with fitting the Cent. Opt. 8200 sunshade to the A1U/Sony 737Y lens. It was originally purchase for my VX2100 and a Cent Optics wide angle which it fits perfectly on. I have been following this thread all along hoping for a solution for the A1U and this sunshade. I searched myself and was unable to find a step down ring anywhere but am not convinced one doesn't exist.

I noticed that the sunshade fit on the Sony 737Y lens if the lens cap was on so I called Sony and ordered an extra lens cap. I believe it was right around $30 shipped. When I got it I cut out the center so that just the part that fits on the outside of the lense was left. Slip that on the lens and then the sun shade onto that and I have a stable fit.
I don't know that this is a reasonable solution if you have not purchased anything yet but for me, already having the sunshade it made sense.

Duane and Bret, Thanks for your input.
Last time I spoke with cavision, they told me that they were going to discontinue the LH80, and talked me into buying the LH77 because it was made for the A-1. Well, I just talked to cavision; I told them to follow this thread, and explained what I was trying to do; cavision said they understand. They are sending me 2 LH80 adapter rings: one is modified for the 77mm lens, the other is not modified, incase I need to change it. I'll keep you posted with the results.
This thread is awsome!

Duane and Bret, Thanks for your input.
Last time I spoke with cavision, they told me that they were going to discontinue the LH80, and talked me into buying the LH77 because it was made for the A-1. Well, I just talked to cavision; I told them to follow this thread, and explained what I was trying to do; cavision said they understand. They are sending me 2 LH80 adapter rings: one is modified for the 77mm lens, the other is not modified, incase I need to change it. I'll keep you posted with the results.
This thread is awsome!

I do not completely understand what you are trying to say. You want to use the Century Optics sunshade but you are ordering adapter rings from Cavision? Please let me know as I am really interested. I ordered the LH77 but if there is a better solution, I am in for it.

The Raynox lenses aren't zoom through. You need to pop them off if you are going to zoom.

http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/video/hdrhc1/index.htm

If you look at this special HDR-HC1/A1 section of the Raynox site, you can see that there are various lenses at this moment, that are full zoom. They launched the special HD line and the HD-7000PRO (0.7x) and HD-5005PRO (0.5x) are 1-10x (is full zoom) on the HDR-HC1/A1. The HD-2200PRO (2x)Telephoto lens is 9-10x zoom-through (so only the upper tele end) and the HD-3031PRO (0.3x) is 1-7x (so almost full-zoom).

Not that I own these lenses, but I just wanted to clear it up. I am still interested in comparisons between the Raynox HD-7000PRO and the Sony Y lens, as well as between the HD-2200PRO and the Sony Y tele lens. So if anyone can fill me in, I would love to know.

Can someone tell me more about the Sony Y tele lens? I never hear anyone about it, but I think it might be useful for wildlife and nature filming.

Floris,
Yes, you got it. I am using a century optics sun shade , and adapter rings from cavision. Let me try to explain; Century does not make an adapter ring for the SONY 77mm WA lens. I don't think anybody else does either. Cavision has a 80mm hood and adater ring that works with 77mm; it eventually evolved into the LH77, but the LH77 does not have an adapter ring, atleast, not the tradition spacer that you see on most DV matte boxes. The 80mm adapter ring can be modified by cavision to fit the 77mm lens ( by cutting a slit in the side of it.) You could also do this yourself. ADD - the rings are only 5 bucks

BTW century makes a dust cover to go with the sun shade
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?ci=1&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=product.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t&shs=ds-mblc-00&image.x=9&image.y=4

Will that dust cover fit perfectly on a LH77?

I don't know, as I just ordered it today. I'll let you know when I get it.

Well I just received my LH77 from Cavision a few minutes ago; looks like a good product, but I don't have my A1 here with me to test fit; I'll do that tonight.

I also went ahead and purchased the RPSHC bottom-load spacer that they sell. I was planning on buying the one from Jeff DeMaagd, but I was in an extreme hurry and didn't have time to deal with an eBay auction. I dunno tho, I may still order one later; I'll have to see how this Cavision one works.

Also, I ran to Kennedy's ENG (DFW area) and picked up a Cinetactics Matteblox DV (www.cinetactics.com) and french flag; I used it on an interview shoot yesterday evening and it worked great for controlling light spill on the lens...you know, when the late evening sunlight is almost horizontal across the sky.

I'll have to compare it to the LH77 tonight when I get home and post some pics. :-)

Well I just received my LH77 from Cavision a few minutes ago; looks like a good product, but I don't have my A1 here with me to test fit; I'll do that tonight.

I also went ahead and purchased the RPSHC bottom-load spacer that they sell. I was planning on buying the one from Jeff DeMaagd, but I was in an extreme hurry and didn't have time to deal with an eBay auction. I dunno tho, I may still order one later; I'll have to see how this Cavision one works.

Also, I ran to Kennedy's ENG (DFW area) and picked up a Cinetactics Matteblox DV (www.cinetactics.com) and french flag; I used it on an interview shoot yesterday evening and it worked great for controlling light spill on the lens...you know, when the late evening sunlight is almost horizontal across the sky.

I'll have to compare it to the LH77 tonight when I get home and post some pics. :-)

Did you use the cinetactics Matteblox DV with the A1? I looked at the site and is not clear to me how it would fit the camera (with Sony Y lens). Anyway, I think I am going to make a custom build solution. It seems possible now I know the ups and downs of other solutions.

hey can someone repost the oringinal pictures that where at the beginning of this thread

hey can someone repost the oringinal pictures that where at the beginning of this thread

Ditto, I'd sure like to see Laurence Kingston's setup; do you have any new images Laurence? I'm interested in the Spiderbrace, and custom L-brackets as needed to use the video light and wireless receivers.

Thanks!

Well it does seem that Laurence's pics on that site have gone.

But his A1 looks a little like Adam La Prade's A1 as there are a number of common accessories :

See Adam's pics of his machine:
Custom A1U on a tripod with all accessories:
http://www.adster.net/host/files/1/Camera/pic1.jpg
http://www.adster.net/host/files/1/Camera/pic2.jpg
http://www.adster.net/host/files/1/Camera/pic3.jpg
http://www.adster.net/host/files/1/Camera/pic4.jpg
http://www.adster.net/host/files/1/Camera/pic5.jpg

from this thread:
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=66690

and on the Spiderbrace:
http://www.adster.net/host/files/1/Camera/pic9.jpg

Laurence's setup has very similar hardware but a little different on the arrangement.

I dug these up from my hard drive, I hope it's not a problem:

http://dm-accessories.com/users/kingston1.jpg
http://dm-accessories.com/users/kingston2.jpg
http://dm-accessories.com/users/kingstonlight.jpg

There were more, but I can't find them.

It seems to be 'kitted-out photo' time, so can I add my VX2k here?
http://www.fortvir.net/gallery/v/tom-s-photo-album/Tom_s_VX2000.jpg.html

Laurence's setup has very similar hardware but a little different on the arrangement.

I dug these up from my hard drive, I hope it's not a problem:

http://dm-accessories.com/users/kingston1.jpg
http://dm-accessories.com/users/kingston2.jpg
http://dm-accessories.com/users/kingstonlight.jpg

There were more, but I can't find them.Thanks for posting those up Jeff. Dedication !!

Err, just one thing...... I think the last JPG might be something else entirely ! not sure what it is exactly, but it looks fascinating !! lol !

It seems to be 'kitted-out photo' time, so can I add my VX2k here?
http://www.fortvir.net/gallery/v/tom-s-photo-album/Tom_s_VX2000.jpg.html
Nice setup Tom.

Few questions:
1) Are you happy with the Rycote Softie ? Can you estimate what sort of windspeed that it protects up to ? I have a Rode Deadcat on my Videomic and i think I may need a better windshield so i am looking at Rycteo and Lightwave etc.

2) How does the ME66 sound indoors? I guess for wedding stuff, its big halls or churches or marquee or something so the delayed-reflections off walls isnt really a problem? In a normal room environment, do you use another mic? me64?

3) Also any idea how much a 2nd-hand VX2000 would go for in the UK?

4) Whats the clamp/tripod widget in this shot :
http://www.fortvir.net/gallery/v/tom-s-photo-album/Mini_recording_studio.jpg.html
Is it a Manfrotto Super-Clamp? looks a bit like it. Any chance of a URL to that at B&H (for whatever it is).


cheers

Thanks for posting those up Jeff. Dedication !!

Err, just one thing...... I think the last JPG might be something else entirely ! not sure what it is exactly, but it looks fascinating !! lol !

It was the light that Laurence Kingston used with his equipment. I included it because that's one of the originally posted images.

well i hope this kingston set up works good cause i just ordered most of the same stuff for my hc1...

i got a rode ntg-2 with a beactek dx4-a, also got a hd-7000 raynox and the century optics shade for 82mm. got spider brace already and am waitting for the lanc.. also got the light with the battery and diffuser. this thing better be good and provide some results now..this whole setup with the cam and a tripod is close to $3000 k and the name of the forum is afforable hdv..lol...need some big dollars for non affordable then