Thanks, Tom, you've been a good source of information. Hopefully this will be my last round of questions:
1. Where is the speed dial located on the Zoe controller? I don't see it in the pictures I found of the controller.
2. So, if I set the speed dial at say, a zoom speed of 3 out of 10, where 10 is the fastest zoom and 1 is a the slowest, creep/crawl zoom, no matter what pressure I apply to the rocker, it will only zoom at speed 3? I ask this because you specifically only mentioned the slowest creep zoom, where that would be set as the maximum zoom speed on the speed dial. So even if I pressed the rocker softer or harder, it wouldn't make a difference as the creep speed has been set as the maximum speed. But if I had a speed setting of 3 and I pressed the rocker softer, would it possibly vary between speeds of 1-3, or would it be locked onto speed 3 no matter how much or how little pressure I put on the rocker?
3. As I am pushing the rocker to zoom in, I can also simultaneously adjust the speed dial to achieve variable zoom speed, correct?
4. I read in an article here that the Zoe controller has audible clicks when you press the buttons on the 2003 Zoe model. Is the Zoe controller on BH a 2003 model, or is it a newer model that has fixed the problem of audible clicking?

Time you did some reading Alex.

http://www.digitalprods.com/Zoereview2.htm

http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/camaccs/zoedvlanc2.php

The answer is yes to your question, however hard you push on that rocker, and at whatever speed you jab at the rocker, the camera will not go above that setting. Say you've set the halfway point, then you can accelerate gently up to that point, but the lens won't zoom faster than that point.

Not sure if you can zoom while at the same time alter the max setting, but I'd hazard a guess and say yes. One is using a LANC protocol, the other is a controller dial. I have been caught out though - needing a crash zoom to get me in tight and fast. So now I never use that wheel - the rocker is so delightfully long travel and sensitive I simply don't need it.

My 2005 Zoe has silent buttons.

tom.

And here's another:

http://www.bebob.de/international/zoe_dvl_eng.html

I could send you my own review printed in FVM if you like.

tom.

Thanks for the links to the reviews.

The first review says the Zoe controller has a Maximum Speed Reduction function (MSR), which is not a speed control dial, but a speed limiter. What does that mean? How, if it is, is a speed control dial better than a speed limiter?

Perhaps you could really quickly test it for me if the Zoe controller can indeed adjust the MSR to a higher maximum speed (and lower max speed) while simultaneously zooming. It would be a great bit of info in my consideration.

In your "caught out" situation, if you could quickly adjust the MSR speed to a higher (or even the highest) speed allowed while zooming, then wouldn't that solve the problem?

It also seems that the orientation of the MSR wheel (vertical) poses a problem with operating easily, and that the MSR function isn't able to record a particular speed setting to use again at a later time.

Yes, Tom, your own review would be awesome too. Thanks!

I'm good to you. aren't I Alex? I've rigged up the kit and yes indeed, you can apply max pressure on the rocker and vary the zoom speed by using the knurled wheel as a 'volume control' Neat! So it's all things - a max speed control dial as well as a speed control dial.

Yes to your last para - there's no markings on the wheel, though you could add them with white dots if you wanted to.

I'll see if I can get the review to your email address.

tom.

Thanks a lot for all your help. Really appreciate it. It seems like the debate now is between the 2005 Zoe controller and the Varizoom VZ-Pro-L or Pro-LZ controller, but I think I'm liking the Zoe more, even if expensive. It doesn't look like BH carries the 2005 Zoe controller though, and the 2003 one is out of stock (not to mention it doesn't have the MSR, which I think is very important, although its vertical orientation seems very irritating to me).

The second review link you posted mentioned that the 2005 Zoe controller is about 1-1/8" thick, and as such, poses a problem because it might be hard for people with small to medium sized hands (which is me) to reach the top buttons easily. Do you find this to be a real problem?

Just read your review, thanks. Last question: where can I buy the 2005 Zoe controller?

I got a deal at: (email) enquiries@prokit.co.uk

London W4 5PY
020 8995 4664

Hello everyone! I'm a film student in Orlando, Florida and I've been considering and saving up for a camera for some time now and after about 3 weeks of comparing prices and features, the HVR-A1U was the best band for the buck. I purchased it yesterday and it should be here tomorrow (and I can't wait).

Now I'm on a accessory kick! I looked into everything that Laurence had on his camera (which is amazing by the way) and it totals to be around $1650 plus shipping for everything. That's a bit much then what I have to spend, so I was wondering what would be the "essential" pieces for doing short films. I also, this summer, plan on getting into the wedding videography business. I was thinking:

The light, diffuser, Microphone kit (cause it has a lavaliere and a standard XLR connection), the Spiderbrace, a lanc controller (don't know which one yet...) and I think that's about it?

Also, when it comes to filters, what are the absolute necessary ones do you recommend? Thanks guys! This thread has been an awesome help!

Hey man, I'm also from Orlando, Florida. I am now studying in Boston though; but I am always going back home.

I have the HDR-A1U (you're going to love it) and I have already purchased some accessories for it. First thing I got was 2 NP71D batteries. I got them from eBay and paid $38 for each. I also purchase the Sony "Y" wide-angle lens, which I feel is a must-have. The last thing I purchased for it was the SpiderBrace and the tripod adapter. The same one that Laurence has. I absolutely love that thing, and I highly recommend it. Other than that, I have some tapes and a cheap tripod (Velbon CX-570, which by the way works beautifully).

I am planning on getting the same light and diffuser that Laurence has soon. I am still skeptical about getting the lanc controller as I don't plan on doing a lot of zooming during my taping. I am also getting the AT88W wireless mic set which I hear is quite good for the price ($130ish). Last thing I am getting is a new microphone. I am split between the Sennheiser ME64 and the Rode NTG-1.

I recommend you look for these items on www.shopping.com. I have found amazing deals there.

Hope this helps,

-Alex K.

There are no absolutely necessary filters Alex. The polarisor is difficult to replicate in post, but the HC1 has its own built-in ND and a UV isn't really necessary

can i just get a beachtek adapter for my hc1 not a1 and have this same rode mic and wreless set up. i mean thats the only real diffrence with these cams right? set up looks real cool by the way. wouldn't the picture from a fx1 be alot better though?

Hehe, Tom H., I think you got the names mixed up. Don't you mean Adam?

Anyways, Adam, I'm going through the same thing as you. I want to get the A1 camera (soon, because 3/31 is the last day for the rebate), but I want to order the necessary accessories for it to save on shipping, and just so I can have everything I need right now all at once.

I'm definitely getting these:
Spiderbrace 2
at least one microphone, maybe both (Rode NTG-1 with Rode SM3 shockmount and 1.5 feet long right-angle XLR cable, or Sennheiser ME64/K6)
one extra Sony NP-QM71D battery

debating:
another 71D battery
Rode NTG-1/2 windscreen (or will the windscreen on the included Sony mic work okay?)
windscreen for Senn ME/64?
Zoe 2005 Lanc controller or Varizoom VZ-Pro-L or VZ-Pro-LX controller
Hoya 82mm Super Multi-coated UV(0) Filter (only needed if I get the Sony Y lens)
LH77 lens hood from Cavision (only needed if I get the Sony Y lens)
Tripod adaptor (annoying to change tapes, but maybe I can live and save $30)
Sony wideangle Y lens (I'm not sure how often I'd really use a wideangle lens)
some sort of fluid head tripod (but I feel the Spiderbrace should be fine)
video light (I hesistant on the same one Laurence has because I've read posts here about it only being able to light up 8-10 feet, so even though 20W is pretty blinding, I looking at 35-40W with a diffuser)

Tom J., there are other differences that I feel are significant between the HC1 and A1, such as a different shoe, blackstretch, lens hood, etc.

I think footage from an FX1 is about the same as HC1/A1 footage if shot with enough light, although apparently some models of the HC1/A1 have bad red color accuracy and they do perform poorly in low light.

fx1 same as hc1 how can this be...that is a 3 chip camera shouldn't it be much much better

It's not the exact same, of course not. But from what I've seen, footage from the FX1 and HC1/A1, if shot with sufficient lighting, can be interchanged and mixed pretty successfully. Don't knock on the HC1/A1 not having 3 CCDs, it has 1 CMOS sensor, which is different.

not knocking it i have one myself

I see, well, in any case then, HC1/A1 footage is definitely comparable to FX1 footage. Some say the HC1/A1 is a bit on the cool side, and some models seem to have a red color inaccuracy, but other than that, I think the footage is pretty nice.

Thanks Laurence for sharing your setup. Here's a few pics of my A1U and Spiderbrace combo. I love the Spiderbrace... my dad's who's very amateur got super-steady shots of my daughter right after she was born using it:

http://homepage.mac.com/rotomas/PhotoAlbum22.html

I did do a few easy modifications to it, and I'm not the modification kind of guy so any one could do these. I drilled a hole through the base of the Spiderbrace and used the camera's shoulder strap so I could rest the brace on my chest when I'm not using it. I also drilled a small hole for the Varizoom cord so that the excess is stashed away inside the body.

What do you guys think of where I have the light placed? The diffuser is in the right position like this, I'm just a little worried about shadows from not having the light directly in line with the lens.

Anyways just thought I'd share.

Thanks Laurence for sharing your setup. Here's a few pics of my A1U and Spiderbrace combo. I love the Spiderbrace... my dad's who's very amateur got super-steady shots of my daughter right after she was born using it:

http://homepage.mac.com/rotomas/PhotoAlbum22.html

I did do a few easy modifications to it, and I'm not the modification kind of guy so any one could do these. I drilled a hole through the base of the Spiderbrace and used the camera's shoulder strap so I could rest the brace on my chest when I'm not using it. I also drilled a small hole for the Varizoom cord so that the excess is stashed away inside the body.

What do you guys think of where I have the light placed? The diffuser is in the right position like this, I'm just a little worried about shadows from not having the light directly in line with the lens.

Anyways just thought I'd share.


Well the two light bulbs side by side make more sense with the widescreen aspect ratio of the A1. I'd be worried about shadows from the Spiderbrace handles though. On top isn't an ideal position either. I get shadows from the microphone and it's fuzzy cover.

Yeah the Spiderbrace is cool isn't it. I just shot some zoomed in video of my friend windsurfing. I was amazed at how steady it was zoomed all the way in (with a .7 wide angle lens).

It looks as if you've found a hard plastic diffuser that simply pushes on and stays on Roger. Can you specify the make and type as this looks a neater solution than my Lumiquest 'velcro-on' version.

I have my 20DW2 lamp above the lens and on axis with it. Even with both lamps on and the diffuser in place I find the shadows unnatural if the lamp is placed anywhere else, so I'd be interested to hear your real-world results.

Your pictures were a bit dark and hard to see this end.
Alex, I mean Adam. Well spotted.

tom.

It looks as if you've found a hard plastic diffuser that simply pushes on and stays on Roger. Can you specify the make and type as this looks a neater solution than my Lumiquest 'velcro-on' version.

It's the same one Laurence used, the Sto-Fen Omni Bounce difussor. It's actually made for a Canon still photo flash, but it fits on the 20WD2 pretty well.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=89908&is=REG

Can someone post a picture of the tripod adapter I want to see if it will work with my bogen 501.

Just go to the first page of this thread and see Laurence's post where he lists and links the items.

I Looked at all the pics. You really can not see any detail on the adapter. I went to the link on ebay but you can’t see it there either the hand and tape are in the way. A closeup of just the adapter would be nice. If it is too much trouble that’s cool.

I Looked at all the pics. You really can not see any detail on the adapter. I went to the link on ebay but you can’t see it there either the hand and tape are in the way. A closeup of just the adapter would be nice. If it is too much trouble that’s cool.

If you want a closer look at the offset adapter:
http://dm-accessories.com/gr_hdr/shimbottom.jpg
http://dm-accessories.com/gr_hdr/shimtop.jpg

Sorry, I didn't think to put a ruler in the pictures. At any rate. if what you screw it to is less than 55mm from the screw point to the right edge, it will work. For larger than 55mm, then the PRO or PROA is what you want.

How you measure it:
http://dm-accessories.com/gr_hdr/measure.jpg

The little side offset adapter might work with a 501 if you eject the quick release. My previous notes on compatibility didn't consider ejecting the quick release block.

The PRO and PROA models I make save that step, several of my customers needed to cut down the tape change to as few seconds as possible. The 501's head is just too wide to offset to the side enough like that to remove tapes with a single step, so I made a riser-type adapter.

You can find info on alternative options here:
http://dm-accessories.com/index.php

Click on the item thumbnail for the PRO or PROA to see a description of those adapters.

Now that was very helpful I appreciate all your help.

It looks like I need the pro model. I will be ordering one today.

Hey guys! Few questions... :-P

So I'm looking into a nice wide angle lens for this puppy and I had a question. Laurence uses the Sony VCL-HG0737Y:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=396837&is=REG

But the Sony site recommends the VCL-HG0737X Wide angle found here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=225837&is=REG

Sony recommends the 737X here for the A1U:
http://bssc.sel.sony.com/BroadcastandBusiness/DisplayModel?id=80897

Also, if I do decide to get the X model, what sunshade could I get with it? Would I be able to use the one that Laurence posted ? Thanks!

Hey guys! Few questions... :-P

So I'm looking into a nice wide angle lens for this puppy and I had a question. Laurence uses the Sony VCL-HG0737Y:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=396837&is=REG

But the Sony site recommends the VCL-HG0737X Wide angle found here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=225837&is=REG

Sony recommends the 737X here for the A1U:
http://bssc.sel.sony.com/BroadcastandBusiness/DisplayModel?id=80897

Also, if I do decide to get the X model, what sunshade could I get with it? Would I be able to use the one that Laurence posted ? Thanks!


I have both models (I use the VCL-HG0737X with my old TRV20). Here's what you need to know about both lenses:

They both produce an excellent (and equal as far as I can tell) image.

You can use either lens on any camera with a 37mm thread.

The VCL-HG0737Y lens is a tiny bit bigger around, so the sunshade fit will not be the same. You can probably just use a thicker adapter ring. I'd call Cavision to be sure.

The VCL-HG0737Y lens looks better on the new Sony HDV cameras. This may or may not be important to you, but it is important to me. I may not care about holes in my jean shorts or wearing a ragged t-shirt, but I do like my equipment to look top notch.

The 0.7, 0.5 and 0.3 Raynox lenses (priced here)
http://www.jessops.com/search/dointellisearch.cfm
work very well indeed in the HC1 / A1. They're single element, clip-on lenses with beautiful coating and the price is simply amazing for the quality of the results they produce.

tom.

this address might take you closer:
http://tinyurl.com/hhbgn

I return to it again and again...

Anyway, I need to step up my wireless-lav mic game, and I since you know a bit about mics, Laurence, I was hoping to hear what the process was in deciding on the Sennheiser Evolution G2 100...

Seems like a good value - how's the 'sound' to you?

I have both models (I use the VCL-HG0737X with my old TRV20). Here's what you need to know about both lenses:

They both produce an excellent (and equal as far as I can tell) image.

You can use either lens on any camera with a 37mm thread.

The VCL-HG0737Y lens is a tiny bit bigger around, so the sunshade fit will not be the same. You can probably just use a thicker adapter ring. I'd call Cavision to be sure.

The VCL-HG0737Y lens looks better on the new Sony HDV cameras. This may or may not be important to you, but it is important to me. I may not care about holes in my jean shorts or wearing a ragged t-shirt, but I do like my equipment to look top notch.
If both are made by Sony and are the same, why would any fool want to pay an additional $50 for the Y model instead of the cheaper X model???

If both are made by Sony and are the same, why would any fool want to pay an additional $50 for the Y model instead of the cheaper X model???

Quality of image.

The 0.7, 0.5 and 0.3 Raynox lenses (priced here)
http://www.jessops.com/search/dointellisearch.cfm
work very well indeed in the HC1 / A1. They're single element, clip-on lenses with beautiful coating and the price is simply amazing for the quality of the results they produce.

tom.

The Raynox lenses aren't zoom through. You need to pop them off if you are going to zoom.

That's correct. They zoom to about 6X (of the 10x zoom) at which point they blur instantly. This sudden blur gives a beautiful effect if used in a cross dissolve, I've found.

So I think I've settles on the Sony VCL-HG0737Y wide angle lens because after thinking about it, the professional look of equipment means quite a bit to a client and the black on black does look the best.

Also, when it comes to sun shades and lens hoods, which one is better? What are the differences exactly between Laurence's Century Optics DSFA8200 and the CA Vision LH77? Are there differences? Can both take 82mm filters? Thanks!


<-- still a little confused :-P

The best hood is an aspect ratio hood, of which the 'petal' hoods seen on many still camera wide-angles is a derivitave. So if you're shooting 16:9 you should really get a 16:9 hood that *just* avoids vignetting the full frame image (as seen in your NLE preview window.

tom.

So I think I've settles on the Sony VCL-HG0737Y wide angle lens because after thinking about it, the professional look of equipment means quite a bit to a client and the black on black does look the best.

Also, when it comes to sun shades and lens hoods, which one is better? What are the differences exactly between Laurence's Century Optics DSFA8200 and the CA Vision LH77? Are there differences? Can both take 82mm filters? Thanks!


<-- still a little confused :-P

I would go with the cA LH77. It's cheaper and is made of flexible rubber that will take a bump gracefully. Both will fit the same 82mm filters. The Century Optics DSFA8200 provides a hair more shade, but I don't think it is worth the extra money and you need to order the adapter ring from Cavision anyway.

The LH77 also doesn't require the adapter ring that the LH80 does, as it is specifically manufactured to fit the "Y" lens.

I just ordered it from them, still haven't received it. I'll post pictures when it arrives.

How do you order from Cavision via email? I filled everything out except for the shipping charges and total cost (because I don't know the shipping charges). How do I find out how much they charge for shipping and handling and what carrier and service they will use? I put in a special request for the cheapest carrier and cheapest service, but still, how do I fill out the form and send it to them?

Also, how do I sign the email order form? Do I just type my name in and have it act as an electronic signature, rather than signing it with an actual pen and somehow scanning the image of my actual signature in/pasting it into the form?

Is the LH77 hood a 16:9 hood? What are other hoods? 4:3? What if I want to be able to shoot both 16:9 and 4:3, depending on my mood and use the same lens hood with the Sony Wideangle Y lens? When I'm downconverting to SD from HD, I usually want a 4:3 aspect ratio, so would my lens hood affect that?

Tom, could you explain what an aspect ratio hood is, and what petals are? And what you mean by getting a hood that just avoids vignetting the full frame image? Is the LH77 an aspect ratio hood? And/or does it just barely avoid vignetting?

Also, how does the Rode SM3 shockmount differ/compare to the Rode SM5 shockmount? How does the SM5 clamp onto the A1?

I bought my Cavision 0.5x wide-angle converter and the matching 4:3 LH-100P hood from a dealer, not from Cavision direct.

Back to basics. Why do I need a lens hood?

OK, try this. Get an old UV filter. It doesn't have to screw in, holding it up in front of your camera is ok for this test. Make sure the filter is a bit dusty and includes a fingerprint or two. Now go out into the sunshine and make sure sunlight is falling on the filter. Zoom to wide-angle and aim at the shadows. See all those blurry spots and nasties in your v'finder? Now simply shield the filter from the sun. Use your hand as a flag or hood, or step back into the shadow of a tree or building. Aim at the same spot as before. See how - using the same dusty filter, the image is miracuously cleaned up?

So simple, so effective. There's no accessory you can buy that offers as much bang for the buck as a simple and effective lens hood. The best ones are 'shadowed' hoods. Look at the Sony VX2000 hood to see what I mean. Even with sunlight hitting the inside of the hood the in-built mask keeps it dark in there. Excellent!

A lens hood is designed to do one thing only, and that is to shadow the front element in its entirety. If at the same time it keeps the rain off the glass and lets you bump gently into trees as you track forward, all well and good.

So to keep the front element in shadow you need the deepest hood possible. Of course with wide-angle lenses this is difficult - to be deep would mean they would be huge as the lens is seeing so wide. So a 'petal' hood is used, and this is really a cylindrical hood with the corners cut away, so making the hood look somewhat like a tulip with four petals.

To efficiently hood the front element you should use a hood that matches your filming format - so use a 16:9 hood with 16:9 filming. Of course you don't have to, but if you use a 4:3 hood and film 16:9 you're not shielding the front element as much as you could do.

Lots of camcorders these days actually mask the front element. Have a look at the DVX100 Panasonic to see what I mean. I apply black insulating tape to my UV filter in the same way - it cuts down on the amount of 'non image-forming light' that gets into your zoom lens, bounces around unchecked and dilutes the image with flare.

If you have a hood that's too long, when you zoom back to full wide the chips might 'see' inside the hood. This will vignette the image (gives black edges to your picture) but you might not see this on TV or in the cam's v'finder, which is why I say check for vignetting on your computer monitor, which will show you the entire frame as recorded, and not the masked4TV image you see in the v'finder.

Hope this clears things up. Always worth asking questions.

tom.

I've seen pics of the VX2000 hood, but still don't understand what makes it a shadowed hoods as opposed to non-shadowed hoods. Could you link to some pics of a non-shadowed hood and explain the differences? Also, a link to a pic of a petal hood would be helpful.

So from what I'm understanding, you're saying that a 16:9 hood shields the front element best when filming in 16:9 format, and a 4:3 hood shields it best for filming 4:3 format - but what is the reason behind this? Why wouldn't a 4:3 hood work at its full potential when filming 16:9 or vise versa?

I'm also unsure what you mean by "mask" the front element? I've checked out the lens hood on the DVX100, but I still don't understand what you mean.

Lastly, why does the viewfinder and/or LCD screen not show the entire frame you are recording, and why a TV screen will show everything? Wouldn't you want to see everythign you're recording in the viewfinder/LCD screen, or how can you frame your shots correctly?

Sorry for all these n00b questions. I only started getting into this stuff not too long ago.

Still wondering how to order from Cavision via email directly too, and what the difference between the Rode SM3 and SM5 are.

Lots of questions Alex. Here's tom's take.

TV's have always masked down the broadcast picture. It's historical really - early TVs used to 'shrink' the picture if the start of scene B was a lot brighter than the end of scene A. It was due to the CRT taking more than the feeble power supplies could muster. Masking meant you didn't see scene B as smaller than your TV's screen.

TVs nowadays don't need to mask the image, but they still do. Your editing program should show clearly the title safe and TV safe areas as rectangular marks within your DV frame. Camcorders still mask the image, and pretty drastically sometimes. I hate this picture masking as it robs me of the expensive wide-angle I've paid for. Some projectors don't mask and the Z1 can be switched to show the entire frame as you shoot - an excellent idea.

Look at the lens hood on the Canon GL1 or XL1s. These are rectangular, aspect ratio, black and internally ribbed. Good. Now if you shoot in sunlight, light will fall onto this inner surface of the hood, illuminating it quite brightly. This bright surface (ribbed and black to try and avoid reflections) sure does reflect light back, and this can be 'seen' by the front element. It causes flare - i.e. it dilutes the image contrast.

Now look at the VX2000's shadowed hood. A rectangular mask attempts to block sunlight from even entering the hood, such that even in bright sunlight, the interior surfaces of the hood are pretty dark. Result - much less flare. Downside? Much higher build cost. The Sony aperture mask alone is comprised of 6 parts, the hood adding a further four. This is money Canon don't bother to spend.

Go back and look at the DVX100 - or any of the Panasonic cams for that matter. Take a look at the circular front element - notice how there's a straight edged mask in front of the glass that stops you seeing the entire element? This is very often ribbed and black to keep out non image-forming light.

This is getting long-winded, but take it from me Alex, you should hood your camera to match your aspect ratio. And remember this - the lens hoods on our camcorders are only designed to work efficiently at the wide-angle end of the zoom. The more telephoto work you do, the less efficient is the stock hood. That's why Hoya's collapsible hood is such a good idea - you can make it a long black cylinder in front of your lens when you're on safari and using long focal lengths all the time.

tom.

Question: Does anyone (or can anyone) have a picture of the Sony Y lens with the Cavision LH77 on it? I was hoping to see what it looked like. Also, the LH77 is a 16:9 lens hood, isnt it?

Hey Adam,

I'll have it soon. It should be arriving today (04/10) or tomorrow.

My setup is almost complete. All I need is my LH77 lens hood and the ME64 or NTG1 microphone. I have pretty much the same setup as Laurence with some modifications. I have a much cheaper (and worse) wireless set. I got the AT 88W PRO set, which is perfect for my needs. I find the quality of the sound quite amazing.

By the way Laurence, I purchased the same adapter to attach the wireless set like yours, but I don't quite understand how you got it to hook like that. Do you think you could explain how you got it to attach like you did on the SpiderBrace?

Where did you order your Cavision hood from? I can’t find it at B&H.

Probably directly from cavision, but I have no idea how to fill out the email form. I've asked about this before, but no one answered, so let's try again.

The email form has three parts that I don't know how to fill out:
1. Shipping cost/method: how should I know? I don't know the cost, the exact location they are shipping from, or the shipping carrier/method. How do I fill this field in if I don't know such information? Shouldn't they send me a full quote with shipping and handling and any other fees along with the price of just the product itself?

2. Total cost: because I don't know the shipping cost, I can't enter in a total cost.

3. Signature: Do they expect me to print it out, sign it by hand, scan my signature in and photoshop it back onto the form, then email the form to them? Or will simply typing in my full name act as a signature in electronic form with all the validity of a real signature?

... you should hood your camera to match your aspect ratio.


While I think the Cavision hood will look "cool" on the HC1 Wide-Angle lens, I've also found out the the hood provided with the Sony Telephoto lens fits the Sony WA lens and did not, in my tests, cause any vignetting of the video even when not zoomed.

The plus is, if you have both lenses, you only need one common hood.