This is a more specific site for the manual:

http://www.bbctraining.co.uk/pdfs/dvguides/vx2000Guide.pdf

Hi,
This is my first port here, so please be nice :)

First just some background. I am a 15 year old, aspiring film-director. A few months ago, a school project for Drama required us to film our own 5-7 minute short film. My group and I used a typical, lets-film-the-soccer-game camera from Panasonic, very amatuer, but the results were still good. We have decided to go out, in around 2 or 3 weeks, during holidays, and film another film, this time for potential entry into the Australian Tropfest film festival. As a result, we want the highest-quality kit we can get.

I looked around at a few rental places and the VX2000 was supposedly the best camera for our budget (at max around $200 a day) so that was all well and good.

But I was extremely happy when I found out a few days ago that my school libary owned a VX2000e (if the "e" makes a difference), so we are going to be using that to film over the holidays.

I have a few questions:

1. Our editing platform for our last movie was a Mac G4 and iMovie 2. This time, we are looking at using Premiere Pro, which I have a copy of, on a 2.4GHZ AMD Athlon PC, with 512mb RAM and a 128MB Geforce 4 Graphics Card and a 120GB HDD. What is the better editing platform? The PC or G4 Mac?

2. We want to film in widescreen. Is the built-in 16:9 mode good enough or should we convert to 16:9 during post?

3. What is the picture quality like when compared to a fairly standard Panasonic or Sony amateur handy-cam and is it significantly noticable?

4. Are there any features on the VX2000 that can improve the picture and/or audio quality of the finished product?

5. Do the miniDV tapes make a difference in terms of quality and, if so, what brand is the best?

6. Tropfest requires, if we make it to the finals, that a SP Betacam tape be handed in. How do I do this on the VX2000? Are there shops in Sydney, Australia, that will convert it from miniDV to SP Betacam?

Thanks in advance
Ed Dowling

But I was extremely happy when I found out a few days ago that my school libary owned a VX2000e (if the "e" makes a difference), so we are going to be using that to film over the holidays.

The e version is PAL so you are in luck.

I have a few questions:

1. Our editing platform for our last movie was a Mac G4 and iMovie 2. This time, we are looking at using Premiere Pro, which I have a copy of, on a 2.4GHZ AMD Athlon PC, with 512mb RAM and a 128MB Geforce 4 Graphics Card and a 120GB HDD. What is the better editing platform? The PC or G4 Mac?

Whichever you prefer. Either editing system is OK. iMovie is much simpler than Premiere Pro so the learning curve will slow you down.

2. We want to film in widescreen. Is the built-in 16:9 mode good enough or should we convert to 16:9 during post?

Shoot for widescreen but shoot 4:3 then mask the video in POST

3. What is the picture quality like when compared to a fairly standard Panasonic or Sony amateur handy-cam and is it significantly noticable?

Yes, very except in really good shooting conditions.

4. Are there any features on the VX2000 that can improve the picture and/or audio quality of the finished product?


Grin . . . the tripod socket. Use of a an external microphone for all work.

5. Do the miniDV tapes make a difference in terms of quality and, if so, what brand is the best?

No but you should not switch brands from what has been used in the camera. If you don't know, then clean the heads with 2 applications of the cleaning tape for 5 seconds separated by 60 seconds. Don't overdo the duration or you can 'bake' the crud onto the heads.

6. Tropfest requires, if we make it to the finals, that a SP Betacam tape be handed in. How do I do this on the VX2000? Are there shops in Sydney, Australia, that will convert it from miniDV to SP Betacam?

Conversion to BetaSP is a piece of cake. Expensive cake if you cannot find someone to do it for you free. I'd expect to spend $100 or more plus the cost of the tape here in the U.S. for a transfer.

Make certain you use the built-in video monitoring tools in Premiere Pro to insure your video is in spec. Also make certain that your video doesn't peak above -6 dB. That way you will get a good transfer with quite good quality.


Thanks in advance
Ed Dowling -->>>

Thank you very much for your help. The use of a tripod is a bit of a given. The difference that a tripod makes is very significant, as I found out in my last project.

Right now Premiere is looking like the system of choice, as we have access to that during the holidays and do not have access to the Macs at the same time.

Thanks heaps again.

<<<-- Originally posted by Ed Dowling 2. We want to film in widescreen. Is the built-in 16:9 mode good enough or should we convert to 16:9 during post? -->>>

I did some tests that show better results when cropping in post. Compression mangles the built-in 16:9 a bit... search around the forum a bit, this has been discussed before. You can also use a memory stick matte, see http://www.streamovie.com/vx2000.htm which I think also gives better results than the built-in.

Hi,
Another question. Is it possible, using USB or Firewire from a VX2000e, to establish an on-set monitor by plugging it into a laptop computer?

Thanks,
Ed Dowling

yes but the picture is not going to as good a quality as you get with a NTSC monitor.

If you have software that has a vectorscope and Waveform monitor option, you might see if they will read the incoming signal. Probably not but it would be interesting for everyone to try.

Should be very helpful for checking framing and focus though.

If you've got a Mac then check out BTV Pro (http://www.bensoftware.com/btvpro.html) It's very nice and has the advantage that you can set any size image that you want. So you can properly display anamorphic 16:9, or even 2.35:1 if you use the "double 16:9 technique". It shows full frame which is helpful since the VX-2000 LCD overscans (as do most prosumer camcorders). You can use firewire, plus it has a lot of other features I haven't tried, like USB and other forms of capture.

It will also capture to your hard drive for tapeless recording and will do time lapse. Very nice for a $45 shareware program. But like Mike says, don't expect to see accurate colors. Everything looks a little dark on the Powerbook screen. You can compensate somewhat by making a custom color profile in the monitors control panel though.

Only for Mac, though?

Thats the exact program I want, just need a PC version :)

Thanks again guys, this forum is great.

Mike R answered your questions exactly as I would have done Ed. The only thing I would add to 4) is that you should avoid the auto settings, especially the auto exposure. Lock down the white balance, the shutter speed (auto shutter to 'off' in the menu), the focus (once the automation has found it for you), the audio level and the aperture.

Remember that the sharpest aperture is f4 +/- half a stop and to avoid f11 like the plague. Use the NDs lots to keep the apertures wide and the DOF shallow.

tom.

There's a menu item you can only access by pushing a button on the back of the VX2000's handle. It controls the sharpening of the image, sometimes called edge enhancement.

I personally like to turn it anywhere from a few notches to all the way down. It's a good first step in making the video look less like video and more like film. Of course, you should experiment with the controls to see which settings give you the best look.

It's also very important to view your shots on a field monitor instead of relying on the onboard LCD screen. I find that the LCD usually looks much more saturated and has trouble showing overexposed highlights (which you should avoid at all costs).

If you can't wrangle a battery-operated, 9" or bigger monitor to have on the shoot with you, get a small 13" TV with composite inputs and run a cable from the camera. Will you be shooting indoors? Will you have AC power for a monitor? I can't over-emphasise this point. If you can't see your shot through a TV, you WILL be surprised in post, and it won't be pretty.

The left channel on my vx2000 is picking up a 60hertz hum when I turn the camera a certain way at times. I can stop the hum by placing pressure on the MIC & lifting it up. It seems as though there's a loose connection.

I've removed some screws near the MIC & loosened it up somewhat, but don't want to go any further without reading the repair manual.

Does anyone have access to the manual or directions on accessing the MIC?

If so could you please send them to me via e-mail
jpearce649@aol.com

thanks
Jim

Hello Jim,

If you feel confident about opening up your camera, you can easily make a repair to the mic. region of the VX-2000. If it is in warranty; let Sony do it!

I have had to make a repair in the same region you are desrcibing. My Mic.-In- Jack became intermitent and had to be replaced. I ordered the part and replaced it, but I ordered the manual first. I recommend you do the same. Since I never use the on board mic. on either the VX-1000 or the VX-2000, I removed them to keep them from being damaged. I made special oval pieces of plastic to cover the openings and put the company logo on them.

So, how confident do you feel? Order the manual first. Item # 9-929-821-31 Service Manual VX2000 $29.00. It is full of electrical schematics that you will probably never use, but the exploded view drawings and parts lists are worth every cent.

Your loose connection could be a flexible circuit board connenctor problem or worse. This connection is in the handle, which must be opened up. Or it could be the left channel mic. connection to the circuit board in the mic head. The manual will show you this. If you call Sony for a part, they expect you will have the part number.

Sony at 1-800-488-7669 or www.sony.com/accessories

I have had to care for both my cameras and the service manuals were indespensible. I give you this information as on-forum information for everyone.

Good luck,

Tim

Thanks Tim.

I removed the handle & mic & didn't see anything obviously wrong, but made sure all the connections were tight & closed it back up thinking I'd have to send it to Sony. However, I turned on the camera & tested it & found the noise to be gone. I'll have to try it out a few times before venturing forth & doing weddings with it, but so far so good.

thanks again
Jim

Thanks for this reference. This is my first post. What a gold mine find in this manual. I am curious about the EV (exposure index) value of the VX2000. By my reckoning it is 200 ASA for daylight and 600 ASA for 3200 tungsten lamps. Can anyone confirm?

I need a second VX-2000 for event videography. I'd like the camera now but I could probably get by until Jan 1st if I really had to. I originally wanted a PD-150 for the extra control that you can get with the sound settings. However, I've decided I don't want to spend the extra money to go this route. The key question is whether to wait for a VX-2100 or get a VX-2000 now. Key questions impacting this decision include: a) when will the VX-2100 really ship in the US? b) how much will it cost relative to the existing VX-2K's? c) will the VX-2K's go down in price as soon as the VX-2100 comes out? d) how much better is the VX-2100 sound than the VX-2K? e) how much better is the VX-2100 video than the VX-2K? I recognize that very little hard data is available regarding the answers to these questions. I'm looking for your gut feelings based upon your experience watching model changeovers in the past, and on any other insights you might have. Thanks for your opinions...

I would wait unless you need a 2nd cam now. Personally, I would wait for the VX2100, and then wait some more to see if it will have any "isues." (Like the PD100 had---which was quickly replaced by the PD100A.)

:)

Another option is to get a Panasonic DVC80. It's got the audio options you're looking for. Plus, the built-in WA lens would be nice. OTOH, already having a VX2000, you would be able to use same batteries/lenses/filters/charger. But if those things don't come into play, check out the DVC80.

If waiting won't cost you a lot of money (lost jobs, additional work getting extra shots you need), I'd wait. I think the improvments, though subtle, are worth waiting for. If I were looking for a new cam and could wait, I would want the VX2100. On the other hand (I'm running out of hands now), it would be worth checking around for some good VX deals. If you could find one for $1,800-$1,900, that might be reason enough to get the 2000.

Does anybody have some VX2000 sample footage I could see...I really only want about 5-10 seconds but I'm trying to use it to compare camcorders since no shops near me have a VX2000 to look at. If possible do you have any uncompressed footage that's short? Thanks!

Tim

By Definition, any video recorded by a VX-2000 is compressed.

What type of footage are you looking for?

People
Scenery
Low light
or?

I just wanted maybe like 5 or 10 seconds of anything...just to compare color quality, etc...I wanted possible DVI format because i figured a few seconds coulnd't be that huge but any avi or mov would be fine, as long as its not WMV which loses quality so much you can't tell the difference between a $200cam and a $2000 cam.

If you have any low light that would probably be the best...maybe people also so I can see the skin tone. Thanks for your help.

I've got a shoot this weekend and am leaving in about 12 hours. If, by the time I get back on Monday, nobody has sent you anything, i will do so.

I appreciate it! Thanks a lot

I am in a similar postiion. I have settled on a VX 2000, but would hate to buy one 30 days before the VX 2100 is available.

While I have heard this new cam discused, I have not been able to find any specs. Does anyone know where preliminary specs are discussed, listed or speculated about? And, I assume the availability dates are a big secret to keep VX 2000 sales from drying up, I'd also be interested in any thoughtful guesses in this area.

Thanks!

Paul Ogle

I see that Sony is finally listing the PD-170 on its US broadcast/professional website:

http://bssc.sel.sony.com/Professional/webapp/ModelInfo?m=0&sm=0&p=2&sp=11&id=71949

But I don't find any mention of the VX-2100 on their consumer website. They are still listing the VX-2000.

Hey guys.

I just purchased a vx2000 And im pretty siked. I had bought a gl2 before,but sent it back because the quality on the vx2000 is better( for what i will be using it for that is). So im sure ill have plenty of questions for you guys down the road, just thought id introduce myself.

Steve

Hey steve, welcome aboard!
Yeah, this place is great, everyone is so helpful and willing in offering advice and opinions.

I'm purchasing a new cam shortly. - have been bouncing back and forward between PDx10 and vx2000. hope I make 'the right' choice.

It will be interesting to see what you've got to say as a new vx user.

Again, welcome.

Anthony

Welcome to the club.

You wil find that the 2000 will accomplish tasks that few other cameras, even those above its price range can do.

Congrats Steve. You're going to love the cam.

Just a friendly correction, it's spelled "Psyched", not "Siked"

Good luck

Mark G

Steve: Most irritating thing about the VX is that it is constantly
powering down (i.e. going into standby mode). The only way to stop it is by leaving the tape door open; who wants to do that.
A little trick they don't tell you in the owners manual is, to bring it out of standby, press the photo button once.
Anthony: If shooting indoors under natural light is an important consideration for you in a cam, best get the VX; the PDX is very bad in low light.

After shooting a lot with a tripod, I've gotten spoiled, and I'm no longer satisfied with what I can shoot hand-held. Side note: the optical stabilization on the VX2000, while not bad without an accessory lens, can not seem to handle an Optex .6x wide angle adapter -- it's as shaky as the standard lens without stablization, and as I get older (or drunker), it's becoming an issue.

I've decided the solution is a good shoulder mount. I've been faking it, using my tripod, with one leg draped over my shoulder. I look like an idiot, and it's not very comfortable, but it is effective. I'd like to find a good, light-weight shoulder mount. Because I do travel videography, it can't be very big or heavy. I don't need much -- only something that will let the camera balance on my should when I'm shooting.

I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

Paul,
I've mentioned before that I've used and still do on occassion a shoulder brace by Studio1store dot com. I think its the same as the HabbyCam. In any case it works very well with my PD150 with a WA lens attachment, shotgun mic,on cam light and wireless receiver mounted to a bracket I fashioned for the back of the brace. There are some others but I can only speak of this one.
Good luck,
Don

The latest WEVA Newsletter, besides having a nice hands-on description of the PD170 has an interesting brief report on the Scorpion System that looks to be modular and will support the camera, lights, microphone, mixer and wireless modules. $139.50 list price. Located in Berkely, MI.

Rather than hook over the shoulder, you press it against your chest. Don't know how practical that is in practice.

Another one, from Anton Bauer, called the Stasis Power support system hangs on the shoulder with one of their batteries on the back of the shoulder hook. Might be OK but at $550 it seems a bit expensive although that seems to include a battery.

I was just looking at a few posts concerning the ability to burn a time/date permanently onto the tape.

I read that the PD150/170 has the ability to burn a time/date month/hour/second onto the tape for video surveillance and law enforcement work, but can the VX2100 do that also?

I have read posts that say no, and yet other websites like b&H say you can.
Anyone have the real scoop here?

I recently bought a used VX2000 supposedly with low hours.

The first time I used it there was some pixelization during the first 5 to 10 seconds and some audio dropouts during the first minute. After that it recorded fine for the remainder of the event (about an hour).

The next time I used it it showed a warning (C:31:23) then another warning (C:31:40) and then the tape cleaning warning. I ran the cleaning tape for 10 seconds. The warnings seems to have disappeared.

There is still a bit of pixelization during the start of the tape. After that it seems fine. It also takes about 5 seconds for the sound to cut in. After that it seems ok though the sound might cut out for a brief moment during the first minute of recording.

Any thoughts from anyone (other than warnings about buying used equipment :)?

Also, when a VX2000 'wears out' what are the warning signs?

thanks so much.

<<<-- Originally posted by Curt Talbot : I recently bought a used VX2000 supposedly with low hours.

Also, when a VX2000 'wears out' what are the warning signs?

thanks so much. -->>>

Kind of what you have described but I'd try a thorough cleaning first.

Try to find out what brand of tape was used in the camera and, perhaps, stick with that.

If you have the camera cleaned professionally, I'd switch to Sony tapes and stick with them.

The camera doesn't wear out, but some of the consumables have to be renewed from time-to-time. Heads, pinch-rollers, bearings all wear out and can be replaced.

Although Mike suggested that you stick to a particular brand of tape, he also hinted that you shouldn't mix tapes from various manufacturers because the different types of tape lubricants apparently gum up the tape system.

Hi guys, this may have been addressed previously, if so apologies.

Does anyone know if the VX2100 is still (or ever had) has an audio hum when using the LCD screen?

Any help / advice would be welcomed.

Cheers, Anthony.

Welcome, Anthony. There's been a thread or 2 discussing this. I'll see if I can find the link.

Here's one of the threads, I think there's another one also.

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18621

Thanks Frank. I am all set to get one, but non of the retailers i have contacted really know much about it, so any info would be appreciated!!

This is just hearsay of course, so take it with a large grain of salt. Over on the dv.com boards somebody is alleging that some of the NTSC models are exhibiting the hum problem that has been seen in the PAL models. They specifically mention the PD-170 and not the VX-2100 however.

I use the VX2100 as the 2nd cam for a few events so far, and leave the LCD flip-out all the time. Using a wireless feed set to mic-in, I have not notice any hum.

More specifically, does anyone know of a way to change the default setting inside the VX-2000 so that the zoom buttons on the wireless remote make the camera zoom at the slowest speed, not the middle speed?

There has to be a way to do this, and it would sure make it easy (and inexpensive) to remotely control the camera from a tripod handle.

I have a friend selling a used VX2000- maybe around 30 hours on it. Not sure how old it is, but I imagine around 2 years ( I can find out).

As far as defects, what should I look for? I imagine scratches or anything like that on the lens is a big no no-- if there *are* imperfections, what would a new one cost? Or is it not even worth it at that point? (and what would constitute being nitpicky?)

I was thinking of offering around $1200, or would a higher price be more appropriate?

thanks for any help!!

That feels a little light, depending on the true condition, acessories, and age.

Get the serial number and call Sony service and ask them when the camera was built. That will give you an idea of how old it actually is. Build in Japan, ship to US, sits on Distributor's shelves, ships to reseller, sits on reseller's shelves, ships to customer, sits on customer's shelves.

Do a search on EBay to see what the Winning bids are on the 2000.

Alot depends. If you are buying "as is", from someone you don't know, you are taking a big risk. You could be buying a piece of junk that will require repair. If you take that risk, you want to make sure you save a lot of money. If a new one is about 2500, how much do you want to pay for a used one? $2000? Do you want to take a risk like this to save 500 bucks? ANY repair will cost at least that much. Than you would end up paying new money for a used, but recently repaired camera.

Were it me, buying an "as is" camera from someone I didn't know, $1200 -$1500 is about as far as I would go. You have to leave room for a potential repair.

Don't get too worked up over any cheap accessories. Figure they are worth 1/4 of retail value. Lens and batteries,1/3 to 1/2.

When I used to work in retail, I could never sell used items for more than half of the price of a new one. Lousey for the seller I know, but thats what the market bears.

Now, if you know the seller and know the camera, and you are really really good friends and married his sister=3/4.

BTW-B+H sells used equipment. Just a thought.

Hi,
I just purchased a used vx2000 camera over ebay, the seller claims it was only used for 10 hours of shooting, I am meeting w/ jhim in person so that I can check out the camera before handing over the cash, what are some things that I should check on, tests that i should run? I figured that I would bring my g4 powerbook w/ me to do a quick l&c to make sure that the firewire link wasn't fried, do a minute of recording, play it back, anything else I should do?

thanks,
Drew

Check if everything is there that should come with the package
(that's an indication as well as how well someone treats the
camera) and very carefully check the camera for dirt and cracks
etc. Recording something would definitely be a good thing. See
if all of the controls function and capturing is not a bad idea. I
would definitely bring someone with me (otherwise the person
might get a powerbook if you know what I mean).

Otherwise use common sense. A too good to be true deal is
usually just that, too good to be true. Also observe how he/she
is handling the camera etc.

There is no hour meter in the menu of the VX2000.

One of the big give-aways is the condition of the bottom of the camera. Especially right near the tripod screw thread. If the entire surface is scratched up and the labels are nearly worn away, it has a lot of miles on it.

While you are down there, make certain the tripod screw socket is intact and that the 'bottom' of the socket is still there and firmly in-place. Many times, a too long tripod screw will be used and it punches through the bottom of the socket.

Make certain that the areas around the controls are not worn smooth. The camera is manufactured with a slight matte finish that can be worn down with a lot of handling.

Listen to the tape deck as it moves tape. You should hear a smooth high-pitched whine. If you hear any grinding or rough sound, the transport is probably failing. (tape cassettes themselves can sometimes sound strange) These cameras do have a tensioner bearing that is somewhat fragile but I've never heard of one failing at 10 hours. More like 200+ hours.

Ask what brand of tape has been used in the camera.

You should receive a
1 memory stick
2 memory stick reader
3 CD ROM with software for the memory card
4 USB cable for the reader
5 charger/powersupply
6 at least the small fp330 battery
7 manual (on-line manuals are available)
8 neck strap
9 & 10 large and small rubber eye shields for the viewfinder
11 AV cable for the camera
12 Lens hood cap
13 Lens hood
14 Remote Commander

It is a really good idea to get the original box (check to see if the serial number on the box matches the camera as that is interesting info and might lead to interesting questions) so that you can use if for shipping the camera should you ever need to do so. Sony likes the cameras to come back in the original box.

There is an hour-meter on the 2000 but you need a service remote to access it.